Does lowering affect the handling?

FlooFoo

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The sales people say that the factory lowered F650 twin handles no differently to the standard height model, I don't know if this is just sales speak or if the average F650 owner wouldn't know the difference (and why would they if they only ever get to ride the lowered version).

If the bike was lowered using the Hyperpro kit, using the different springs, would the handling be changed?

Having done a search some owners have said how the lowering improves the bike handling though I think they refer to the 800 which always looks very tall to me anyway. I'm happy with the way the bikes goes at the moment so don't want to lose that but losing another inch off the height would make all the difference. I like the distance between the seat and the footpegs so don't really want to go down the low seat route - plus I have nice comfy Tony Archer seat. Plus the bike is not for going off road so I don't need the clearance.

I understand that some bikes become quite ungainly when lowered as it messes with their geometry, is the F650gs one of them or wouldn't I notice the difference :nenau?
 
Firming up soft suspension always makes a bike handle better. Perhaps this is why those of us on lowered springs feel they handle better, as the shorter springs are uprated.

How much suspension travel does the 650 provide, and have you optimised the setup to suit your weight and riding style?

Personally I'd have thought that lowering will always reap handling benefits, unless the springs are so short they are too stiff and provide no useful travel at all.
 
Factory lowered and a lowering kit are not the same.
Fitting a dogbone link to the rear will increase fork rake, slowing steering and also making steering heavier.
To reduce this effect, the forks can be slid through the yokes slightly, gaining an inch, which may help.
Don't forget that sidestand and centre stand length on a factory lowered bike is all set to suit the lower stance of the machine. The bike has been built low, not modded. If you lower your own bike, then the stands will need work too.
 
how much?

Hi, Floo, depends how much lowering you need. We have 2 650ties, that we lowered by moving up the front fork 5mm in the fork bridge, and shortening the spacer tube in the fork by 20mm, and the rear shock was taken apart, and a new groove for the circlip was machined on the damper body 10mm higher up, which gave a 30mm sag on the rear end. Together with low seat -which is actually more comfortable than the standard seat!- and Daytona boots with thicker soles we got a more comfortable contact with the ground.
And this way you can keep your main stand! We found the bikes more stable after that, and it didn't spoil the looks at all. So, there's our bit. Good luck, hans
 
The spec says front travel - 180mm and rear - 170mm though I have not measured this on my particular bike.

The suspension has been set to 4 clicks (which is apparently what it should be for my weight (64kg ish + gear) and the headstock has been dropped by an inch down the forks which greatly improved the feel of the bike. It looked as if that was the way the previous owner had as there was a line around the forks.

I wasn't aware that there was a dog bone kit for the 650 twin, but I see that method would alter the rake of the forks and the turn in (had it done on another bike - and lowered the yoke - and while I didn't notice it that much, 'im wot knows did), hence wondering if changing the rear spring and the forks springs makes a difference 'cos you are not changing the shape/geometry/physics of the bike, or are you?

Having said that, by dropping the yoke like I have I must have altered the geometry all ready :confused:
 
It was this that put me off getting the bike lowered. Most folk (tossers aside)dont weigh 87Kg
BMW's figures state the lowered suspension on the F650GS twin reduces the payload by 87kg.

Ignoring that would surely effect the handling :nenau
 


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