Fuel coupling quick release - need to replace

[sparkplug]

Mine are old and showing signs of cracking and the one on the balance pipe broke today which means the other two aren't far behind.

eBay seems to have some really cheap ones but I noticed that Motorworks have some which are cheaper non-OEM ones but which they state are not suitable for fuel injected systems

I'm not quite sure I can see why that would be? Are they just covering their arses or is there a real reason?

I keep looking at getting metal ones and just swapping o rings but I keep thinking they're a lot of money for what they are.

Anyway, should I cheap out on eBay ones or will they do something terrible to my fuel injected bike (or does someone know where to get reasonably priced metal ones?)

 

[Ian J Hartley]

They are expensive for what they are, but you only need to buy the male connectors in metal for the supply and return lines. it’s the plastic male connectors that usually break. I’ve been running metal male and original plastic females for years without any problems.

The right angle connectors for the balance pipe are a different story. I replaced both of mine with metal.
I bought mine from a company called Tom Parker Ltd, based in Preston.
CLCD170-04V - chrome plated brass coupling with shut off valve 1/4” hose I/d
CLCD230-04V - chrome plated brass insert with shut off valve 1/4” hose I/d
Just Google the part numbers and it should take you to their site.

Once you replace them, you shouldn’t need to worry about failure, other than the O rings which can wear or split, but are cheap and easily replaceable.

Make sure what ever you get has internal shut off valves.

 

[cookie]

these are much better IME.

Jiffy-tite Quick Connect Dry Break Fittings

Jiffy-tite's revolutionary quick connect fluid fittings provide unsurpassed performance under extreme racing conditions. Constructed from lightweight aluminium with brass valves and stainless steel ball bearings Jiffy-tite fittings offer an easier and safer method of hose connection than regular...

www.demon-tweeks.com

 

[sparkplug]

Thanks both

The lobes of my tank have non-QD couplings, so I just stuck one in the line running between them

As for the "not for use with fuel injected systems" comment - any thoughts?

I mean, they just need to let fuel flow surely I just can't see why they wouldn't work.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

As for the "not for use with fuel injected systems" comment - any thoughts?

I mean, they just need to let fuel flow surely I just can't see why they wouldn't work.

The plastic male connectors have a wall thickness of 0.5mm at the locking groove. This is the point they usually fail, and most probably why the OEM moved to metal.
Clearly the addition of fuel pressure will add another element in the mix for failure.

They are just playing safe, after all when one breaks, they spray a lot of fuel, and if the engine and exhaust are hot, it’s an arse puckering moment best avoided.

 

[sparkplug]

Might explore the metal/plastic combo Ian

I never even considered that as an option, so it's good to hear it's a tried and tested option.

 

[Paul Young]

I know it’s extra cost, but I fitted a 90° connector at each end of the GSA crossover pipe so there’s no hassle bending and threading the pipe back through. Disconnect both ends and leave it in place…

 

[sparkplug]

I just bit the bullet and ordered some metal male connectors - so the balance pipe upgrade will have to wait another 4-5 years when my scroogishness has worn off a bit

 

[Bandare]

Great thread and info - thank you

 

[Neil W]

Mine are old and showing signs of cracking and the one on the balance pipe broke today which means the other two aren't far behind.

eBay seems to have some really cheap ones but I noticed that Motorworks have some which are cheaper non-OEM ones but which they state are not suitable for fuel injected systems

I'm not quite sure I can see why that would be? Are they just covering their arses or is there a real reason?

I keep looking at getting metal ones and just swapping o rings but I keep thinking they're a lot of money for what they are.

Anyway, should I cheap out on eBay ones or will they do something terrible to my fuel injected bike (or does someone know where to get reasonably priced metal ones?)

Non high pressure cheapies do not work on the fuel injection on a 850,1100,1150 , they will p#ss out, ask me how I know ?

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I know it’s extra cost, but I fitted a 90° connector at each end of the GSA crossover pipe so there’s no hassle bending and threading the pipe back through. Disconnect both ends and leave it in place…

I have done the same on both mine too

Easy mod and so much easier now

 

[Wobs]

One thing I didn't realise until the 90 degree male failed on my bike is that the balance pipe (joining the 2 lobes of the Adventure tank) is about 1/4" ID or 6mm but the fuel supply and return hoses and QD fittings are 7.5 to 8mm.
I guess there's a logic there somewhere but buggered if I can see it.

They are expensive for what they are, but you only need to buy the male connectors in metal for the supply and return lines. it’s the plastic male connectors that usually break. I’ve been running metal male and original plastic females for years without any problems.

The right angle connectors for the balance pipe are a different story. I replaced both of mine with metal.
I bought mine from a company called Tom Parker Ltd, based in Preston.
CLCD170-04V - chrome plated brass coupling with shut off valve 1/4” hose I/d
CLCD230-04V - chrome plated brass insert with shut off valve 1/4” hose I/d
Just Google the part numbers and it should take you to their site.

Once you replace them, you shouldn’t need to worry about failure, other than the O rings which can wear or split, but are cheap and easily replaceable.

Make sure what ever you get has internal shut off valves.

 

[chopper_harris]

these are much better IME.

Jiffy-tite Quick Connect Dry Break Fittings

Jiffy-tite's revolutionary quick connect fluid fittings provide unsurpassed performance under extreme racing conditions. Constructed from lightweight aluminium with brass valves and stainless steel ball bearings Jiffy-tite fittings offer an easier and safer method of hose connection than regular...

www.demon-tweeks.com

I need to replace the fuel hoses on my elderly R1150GS

Have you installed the jiffy-title connectors ?
Would you recommended them ?

 

[cookie]

I need to replace the fuel hoses on my elderly R1150GS

Have you installed the jiffy-title connectors ?
Would you recommended them ?

I have and they work well, much better than the standard CPC connectors, but I have a KTM1190 not a BMW1150 so YMMV.

 

[rustychain]

I have and they work well, much better than the standard CPC connectors, but I have a KTM1190 not a BMW1150 so YMMV.

Some quick release connectors would make my life so much easier.

There's an assortment of jiffy-tite connectors on the drop down lists - any ideas which I need for the GS please?

 

[cookie]

This what I used: Jiffy-tite part numbers 22505 and 21505 these are 8mm spigots and really need new clips of the correct size to suit the hose you have.

 

[rustychain]

This what I used: Jiffy-tite part numbers 22505 and 21505 these are 8mm spigots and really need new clips of the correct size to suit the hose you have.

Thanks cookie.

 

[cookie]

The nice thing about the Jiffy-tite connectors is how easily they come apart. You can do it one handed. The CPC connectors can be an absolute bastard to separate leading to breakage. IME E10 fuel makes them even worse by swelling the O ring.
TBF I've not actually tried separating the Jiffy-tites since fitting and them being in contact with petrol, but they are supposed to be more resistant.

I'd check now for info, but it's a bit of a twat to get at.

 

[ThreeDawg]

Jiffy-tites work a treat, but the cost isn't for everyone,

 

[cookie]

Jiffy-tites work a treat, but the cost isn't for everyone,

I was lucky. I found a pair second hand on eBay. Then I realised i needed another pair so my fuel pressure tester would connect up to the first set