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View Full Version : Snorkel fitting 1150 advice please



sparkplug
11-05-07, 08:25
Having thoroughly enjoyed fording at Llangollen, I'm seriously thinking about finding some local fords to mess around in.

The downside is that I'll not have ten other people around to help get the bike upright or to tilt it to pour water out of the exhaust, so fitting a snorkel seems like a good idea to minimise the risk of drowning.

I did a bit of a search for snorkels but didn't really find much out...

I understand the 'vacuum cleaner tube' bit, but what are the rubber adaptors? are they from vacuum cleaners too? If so does anyone know one which fits well?

Also is this something I need to take off for the 10 months of the year when I'm not fording or can I fit and forget it?

ta

Lo-IQ
11-05-07, 08:28
I'm guessing as I have the same thing to fit to mine a few rings made from a bike (push style) inner tube should work as the snokel interface and some self welding tape as used by TV aerial fitters.

LiquidLAN
11-05-07, 08:39
There is some stuff here about making snorkels, its just not easy to find.

Mouse had all the bits at one point for and 1150, maybe give him a shout.

Mouse
11-05-07, 09:33
I had a snorkel for my 1200, got it from Septic who made it from some industrial hose of some sort. As I no longer have a GS I passed it along to RickA who uses it with glee on his HP2 :)

Basically it was just a rubber adaptor that conveniently fitted the end of the GS's intake, and a length of flexi hose.

You could just improvise something from a bit of flexi hose of the right diameter and some gaffer tape to hold it on.

Timolgra
11-05-07, 10:02
[QUOTE=Mouse;989300]I had a snorkel for my 1200, got it from Septic who made it from some industrial hose of some sort. As I no longer have a GS I passed it along to RickA who uses it with glee on his HP2 :)
QUOTE]

Rick used it for the Red Kite Rally and said it did'nt affect performance at all so I guess you could leave it on, still whipped him on my old DR though:P

It's also worth make a breather pipe for the final drive, I think Spout made one for his old 1150.

LiquidLAN
11-05-07, 10:09
I had a snorkel for my 1200, got it from Septic who made it from some industrial hose of some sort. As I no longer have a GS I passed it along to RickA who uses it with glee on his HP2 :)

Basically it was just a rubber adaptor that conveniently fitted the end of the GS's intake, and a length of flexi hose.

You could just improvise something from a bit of flexi hose of the right diameter and some gaffer tape to hold it on.

Improvising is good, but if Septic knows which bits fit best and do the job I'd be happy to something sensible for one that fitted a 12GSA

sparkplug
11-05-07, 11:46
It's also worth make a breather pipe for the final drive, I think Spout made one for his old 1150.

:nenau

any more info on this?

Mr Pastry
11-05-07, 12:03
I understand the 'vacuum cleaner tube' bit,

Use the flexible hose part of the vacuum cleaner, not the tube part!

P

sparkplug
11-05-07, 12:06
Use the flexible hose part of the vacuum cleaner, not the tube part!

P

:rolleyes:

Boom-Tish!

Fanum
11-05-07, 15:08
Undo your air intake and take it down to the vaccuum cleaner stall at the market.....stick various replacement hoses and nozzles up it until you find one that has a good interference fit with the rubber end of the hose into the air intake.....buy it (a tenner or so) and take it home......

Refit the air intake, then route the hose down through the cockpit from the inside face of the screen, plug the rubber end of the hose into the air intake then cut the other end of the hose to length )( so that it's above the ignition switch and behind the screen in a place you can cable tie it on.

Your bggest problem wil probably be findinga way to route the hose so that it doesn't interfere with the steering at full lock, orsnag any cables etc.

As for the FD breather tube, remove the bloack rubber cap and replace with hose......standard garen hose (the green reinforced stuff) is about perfect....reduce this hose ( a 2 inch section) down to 8mm ID silicone tubing (I've got miles of it if you ned some) then route that along the swing arm, up under the rear tray and finish it at a sensible place like under the seat or by the rear grabrail......cable tie in place then forget about it.


PS I don't bother with either...... ;)

Timolgra
11-05-07, 15:17
PS I don't bother with either...... ;)

That's because you're a ford riding god:P

LiquidLAN
11-05-07, 18:02
Undo your air intake and take it down to the vaccuum cleaner stall at the market.....stick various replacement hoses and nozzles up it until you find one that has a good interference fit with the rubber end of the hose into the air intake.....buy it (a tenner or so) and take it home......

Refit the air intake, then route the hose down through the cockpit from the inside face of the screen, plug the rubber end of the hose into the air intake then cut the other end of the hose to length )( so that it's above the ignition switch and behind the screen in a place you can cable tie it on.

Your bggest problem wil probably be findinga way to route the hose so that it doesn't interfere with the steering at full lock, orsnag any cables etc.

As for the FD breather tube, remove the bloack rubber cap and replace with hose......standard garen hose (the green reinforced stuff) is about perfect....reduce this hose ( a 2 inch section) down to 8mm ID silicone tubing (I've got miles of it if you ned some) then route that along the swing arm, up under the rear tray and finish it at a sensible place like under the seat or by the rear grabrail......cable tie in place then forget about it.


PS I don't bother with either...... ;)

d'yaknow when you put it like that is seems sooooo simple ;)

Spout
11-05-07, 19:21
:nenau

any more info on this?
As Bill says, a short length of garden hose, reduced down to 6mm tubing exiting under the seat. I also used one of those little gaitors from clutch cables to tidy things up, and put a split connector in the tubing for when the final drive was off (bearings etc)

Septic
11-05-07, 21:30
I knew it would go far

BamBam
01-06-07, 15:47
Ok here goes when you have completed the task. To test it, and this is a must before you think you can ride through a river. WITH the bike running Take a plastic bag and seal the snorkel at the new intake end, If the Bike Stops you’ve done it. If not, and you will hear where the air leak is. That will need to be sealed before you play in deepwater.
You will still not be invincable and a hydrolocked engine is pants... Play safe:rob

Shep
01-06-07, 15:55
As Bill says, a short length of garden hose, reduced down to 6mm tubing exiting under the seat. I also used one of those little gaitors from clutch cables to tidy things up, and put a split connector in the tubing for when the final drive was off (bearings etc)

Worth noting that if you extend the breather on the final drive, you may shorten the servicable life of the oil anyway, because the breather will collect condensation and then return it to the FD casing anyway.

Shep

BamBam
01-06-07, 19:40
Right then bevel boxes/gearbox. Water does not just enter through the breather, it can get past the seals as well. Because the BOX is hot, and then when you put in cold water, the air contracts sucking in the water as the temp changes. Remedy you need to change the oil when you have finished playing or dip it to check for water contamination (discolored).

Fanum
01-06-07, 20:07
Right then bevel boxes/gearbox. Water does not just enter through the breather, it can get past the seals as well. Because the BOX is hot, and then when you put in cold water, the air contracts sucking in the water as the temp changes. Remedy you need to change the oil when you have finished playing or dip it to check for water contamination (discolored).

Discoloured?? :eyebrow

http://fanum.smugmug.com/photos/35592529-L.jpg

rocks
01-06-07, 21:20
Bill is good at checking final drives.. eh Bill ??
Cappachino both times now at llangollen wasnt it.. :augie

I hadnt considered Sheps point about condensation, but makes sence. Though you could probably route tubing down below hight of nipple on the FD before routing it up the swing arm, to act as a condensation trap. You would have to remember to check it before riding..

But I am with Fanum and I will do with out.. just check the FD after playing in the water. To be honest I only really go playing in the water on the GS when there are at least two other pairs of hands to help haul it out, its more fun that way! :D