Gearbox removal / re-fitting

fritz

fritz

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Quick bit of advice requested. :thumb

Replacing gearbox on a PARALEVER R100GS – much of a job?

Looking through one of Neil’s old threads it looks like battery etc can stay in place – can paralever & swingarm be taken out backwards in one piece rather than full dissembling? (seem to remember something in past from Cookie suggesting this is possible – think engine mounts have to be taken out and a bit of jack use?) The manual suggests the front cover has to come off engine to remove gearbox – is that right? Can’t see why.

Hoping it can be achieved relatively easily if I get an exchange box from Motorworks (rebuilding the box myself will take me too long…may as well right off the joys of biking in September otherwise - even more swayed reading the other thread on pullers :()

Comments from those in the know gratefully received or pointers to relevant threads (re-read Neils’s yesterday)

Gearbox exploded in third Nr Berwick on way to Iceland recently :spitfire re-built in 2004 :(, lost a chip of metal off the flange on output, but otherwise assume no damage done other than to the gearbox internals themselves.

Remember PARALEVER…otherwise things would be considerably easier! ;)
 
Fritz,

For what it takes on the Paralever I'd take the drive shaft out for a visual inspection. Taking the shaft out is easy and makes the job a lot easier - same with the battery tray as long as the bolts haven't seized. Just take the shock out, the brake cable off and the swinging arm pivot bolts out and pull the lot backwards.

I left the bevel box on my Mono's swinging arm and took the battery tray out. The gearbox was out in less than an hour.
 
Fritz just fitted a new clutch in my basic...Easy
Remove silencer
Remove shocker or just unbolt from bevel box and lift clear
Remove battery no need to remove battery tray
Remove airbox undo carbs and pull forward
Remove paralever complete with bevel box as one unit
You can pull the drive shaft out to check it ( bit of a bugger to get back in mind you )
Remove clutch arm,bearing and push rod
Unbolt gear box and remove it ( don't forget the nutral light switch wires )
This is how i do it ( plus a few other obvious bit and pieces )
Takes about an hour
Thats what i like about airheads.....piss easy to work on
 
Cheers both. :thumb2

No need to undo engine mounts or front cover? Or do engine mounts have to be removed and engine raised slightly to get gearbox out with neutral switch? Did my R80/7 previously, but the paralever farce makes these b*ggers harder work. The Haynes manual doesn't seem to offer many shortcuts.

Can't start until Thursday night anyway.... and then nothing until Saturday....so...... all done and dusted on the road by Saturday aftie then eh.....................:augie

We'll see;)

(Very spooky - I posted that and Motorworks web page came up in another window....strange)
 
Engine mounts and front cover stay in place. If you move the swinging arm out the way try to take the pushrod out before removing the gearbox - gives you a bit more room. Just remember to unplug the neutral switch - don't ask why I thought of that :augie

I forgot you're working on the vastly more complicated Paralever :D My battery tray is the same size as an 1100/1150 so is a dodle to get out. Exhaust stays in place. Just needed carbs removing, airbox removing, battery tray out and seat off.
 

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fritz said:
Cheers both. :thumb2

No need to undo engine mounts or front cover? Or do engine mounts have to be removed and engine raised slightly to get gearbox out with neutral switch? Did my R80/7 previously, but the paralever farce makes these b*ggers harder work. The Haynes manual doesn't seem to offer many shortcuts.
Click to expand...

Read my post fritz :blast
Did i say anythink about the engine mounting bolts :bow

I would rather do a paralever than a mono..It's a lot less messy
And no more difficult if you don't remove the bevel box
 
Garry H said:
Read my post fritz :blast
Did i say anythink about the engine mounting bolts :bow
Click to expand...


Ta just checking the 'various other bits' in original post didn't include such details :p many thanks :D

interesting reading the Haynes manual and comparing to real world options - maybe we ould have changed box and got to Scabster too.....still.....the 250 WAS more fun in the interior :rolleyes:
 
my suggestion was to bolt the shaft to the output flange before sliding the swing arm over, then the fit bevel box :)
 
My suggestion would be to take digital pictures of everything. Every cable tie before cutting, every electrical connection before disconnecting, all the bolts etc.
This way you will build up your own pictorial workshop manual.
 
Do you have a centre exhaust box or a 'Y' piece ?

I took my R100GS box out recently and it was easy - but I had also removed the complete exhaust system as the down pipes needed replacing.

I just have a slight 'niggle' about the neutral switch clearing the centre box if its left in place - Rob Farmer and other experts can probably confirm that it is all OK.

Bob.
 
Thanks for the compliment Voyager but I'm just an enthusiastic amateur...too many cockups on my part to be an expert :eek:

:beerjug:

I'm sure Fritz has a Y Piece fitted so he should be OK.
 
Kenny said:
Good time to actually replace the neutral switch with a new one....you KNOW the little bugger will fail when it's all back together again.:mad:
Click to expand...

They all do that sir.:rolleyes:
Never had a neutral switch last longer than 2 years :spitfire:spitfire

When it lights up now and again, I'm amazed :D
 
Well as adviced (ta!) took just about couple of hours of steady work to get the box out - there is about half the sleeve at back of box ripped off though. There isn't any obvious play on output bearing/seal (though connected and under load it mght move more) so I was surprised at damage (all four bolts were in place and tight).
I know shifting into third was a no-no and loads of whirring in first and second during the one mile i rode it to services.
I'm still assuming the gearbox is blown and not any other fault.
Shaft seems fine, certainly nought like the one that came out before that WAS knackered.
Any thoughts? Anyone had similar before I order a replacement box and assume all is well?
 

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No thoughts then anyone ?

Sticking a s/h box in with intention of pulling this one apart to rebuild.

Unfortunately the missing debris is probably down the housing somewhere so may have to disassemble that too :( bummer :blast
 
Strange. Thats the first time I've seen this post :confused:

I'd say that damage wasn't done by any failures in the gearbox. More likely during fitting without taking the swinging arm out the way sometime in the past - the broken casting doesn't look clean enough to have been a recent fault.
 
If you want to send the box to me Fritz
I will strip it and tell you what you need to repair it
and can rebuild it for you if you want
I also have a secondhand back plate

I agree with Rob looks like old damage by someone being careless
Also very unlikely a gearbox fault would cause it
I have seen the p/bronze bush worn away in the gearbox giving symptoms like yours before
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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