Battlefields of Western Europe

Damir

Guest
My Dad and I ride together as far as I can remember. Usually, we go on one big European ride each year. This year we planned to visit Normandy, and soon plan started focusing on visiting famous WWII sites, so we decided to expand it a little with Bastogne, and some WWI sites as Verdun and Compiegne. I am very interested in 20th century history, and visiting some historical sites on bike was something I really wanted to do.
I won’t do “normal” day by day ride report, but I will try to focus on some places that we visited.


Ljubelj tunnel

During World War II, a 1570 meter long tunnel was built in 1068 m above sea level, by civil workers and 1652 prisoners of two minor sub-camps of the Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp on both sides. To keep the work force effective, injured or sick prisoners were send back to the main camp, or executed by Dr. Sigbert Ramsauer by euthanasia if not able to be transported. As the surviving 950 prisoners could free themselves on 7 May 1945, these were the only sub-camps of Mauthausen-Gusen not to be either evacuated or liberated until the end of the war.
The first army vehicles passed the very tight tunnel on 4 December 1944. Military traffic and returning soldiers and refugees used the tunnel until it was closed in 1947. It was reopened in 1950 and expanded to two lanes in 1966, while the old road over the mountain pass itself has been closed for traffic since 1967.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loibl_Pass)

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Border line between Slovenia and Austria is in the tunnel. There are also speed cameras in tunnel, we went too fast and Austrian police fined us, 25 Euro each.

Bastogne

In December 1944, after Bastogne had already been liberated, and as a last-ditch effort to avoid complete defeat, Hitler’s troops attacked again in the Ardennes, just as they did in 1914 and 1940. The goal was to advance to Antwerp, to cut off supply and separate British from American troops.

On December 16, taking advantage of the cold and the fog, the German artillery started the so-called Battle of the Bulge by attacking the sparsely deployed American troops around Bastogne. A few days later, General McAuliffe and the 101st Airborne Division arrived to counter-attack but, after heavy fighting, got encircled in the city. On December 22, German emissaries asked for the American surrender, to which the General’s answer was quite brief: “Nuts!” The next day, the weather cleared up, allowing air retaliation and the parachuting of much needed food, medicine, and weaponry. On December 26, the troops of General Patton broke the deadlock. No member of the 101st Airborne Division has ever said that they needed Patton's assistance.

The official end of the Battle of Bastogne only occurred three weeks later, when all fighting finally stopped. By that time, the city was completely destroyed and more than 25,000 people had been killed, not counting the more than 50,000 who were never found.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bastogne#World_War_II)

Few pictures from museum

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The Mardasson Memorial

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City

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Verdun

Verdun was the site of the Battle of Verdun in 1916 during World War I. One of the costliest battles of the war, Verdun exemplified the policy of a 'war of attrition' pursued by both sides, which led to an enormous loss of life.

After the failure of the Schlieffen Plan in 1914 and the solidifying of the western front, Germany remained on the strategic defensive in the west throughout most of 1915. In the winter of 1915-1916, German General Erich von Falkenhayn, the chief of the German General Staff (1914-1916) made plans for a large offensive on the western front that ultimately aimed to break Great Britain, who he believed was Germany's main enemy. Falkenhayn argued that Britain, hidden behind the shield of the French Army, could be met head on and defeated only after this shield was broken. As Falkenhayn recalled it, his so-called Christmas memorandum to Kaiser Wilhelm II envisioned a massive but limited attack on a French position 'for the retention of which the French Command would be compelled to throw in every man they have'. Once the French army had bled to death, Britain could be brought down by Germany's submarine blockade and superior military strength. The logic of initiating a battle not to gain territory or a strategic position but simply to create a self-sustaining killing ground -- to bleed the French Army white -- pointed to the grimness of military realities in 1916.

First place we visited was "Bayonet Trench", which marks the location where some dozen bayonets (fixed to rifles) lined up in a row was discovered projecting out of the ground after the war. And below each rifle was the body of a French soldier. It is believed that these belonged to a group of soldiers who had rested their rifles against the parapet of the trench they were occupying when they were killed during a bombardment. The men were buried where they lay in the trench and the rifles left untouched.

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Next place is French National Cemetery and Douaumont Ossuary, near Fort Douaumont. Thirteen-thousand crosses adorn the field in front of the ossuary which holds roughly 130,000 unidentified remains brought in off the battlefield. Every year yields more remains which are often placed inside the Ossuary's vaults.

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(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verdun)

Fort Douaumont (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douaumont)

Verdun was the strongest point in pre-war France, ringed by a string of powerful forts, including Douaumont and Vaux.

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To be continued…
 
Compiegne

The Compiègne Forest was the site of the signing of two armistices; the 1918 Armistice with Germany and the 1940 Armistice with France. Hitler specifically chose the location, and had the original signing carriage moved from Paris to Compiègne, as an irony for the defeated French. The site still houses several memorials to the 1918 armistice, including a copy of the original railway carriage (the original, after used in the 1940 armistice, was moved to Berlin and subsequently destroyed during an Allied air raid).

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compiègne)

Unfortunately site is closed on Tuesday, the day we were there.

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The Pont de Normandie (or Bridge of Normandy) is a cable-stayed road bridge that spans the river Seine linking Le Havre to Honfleur in Normandy, northern France. Its total length is 2143.21 m (856 m between the 2 piers). (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pont_de_Normandie) . This is not exactly on topic, but bridge is impressive, so I put few pictures. Crossing is free for motorcycles.

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Caen

During the Battle of Normandy in World War II, Caen saw intense and bitter combat between Allied and Axis forces. After the landing of the British I Corps at Sword Beach on June 6, 1944, progress of the Allied Forces stalled outside Caen.

British and Canadian troops finally broke through on July 9, after an intense bombing campaign during Operation Charnwood that destroyed much of the city but that allowed the Allies to seize the western quarters of Caen, a month later than Montgomery's original plan. During the battle, many of the town's inhabitants sought refuge in the Abbaye aux Hommes (Men's Abbey), built by William the Conqueror some 800 years before. Post-WWII re-construction of the city that included the re-construction of complete districts of the city and the university campus took 14 years (1948-1962) and led to the current urbanization of Caen.

Unfortunately, Caen lost many of its historic quarters and its historic university campus because of the war and, as such, doesn't have, as some would call it, the 'feel' of a traditional Normandy town such as Honfleur, Rouen, Cabourg, Deauville and Bayeux.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caen)

First place to visit was Caen Memorial (http://www.memorial-caen.fr/fr/index.php).

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Few pictures from the city.

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Saint-Lo

The city being a strategic crossroad, Saint-Lô was almost totally destroyed (95% according to common estimates) during the Battle of Normandy in World War II, earning the nickname of the Capital of the Ruins by Samuel Beckett; it was even actually questioned whether to rebuild it or to leave the ruins intact as a testimony of the bombing. In any event it was rebuilt and is a center of French gastronomy focusing on the production of award winning chopped liver.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Lo)

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Sainte-Mère-Église

The town's main claim to fame is that it played a significant part in the World War II Normandy landings because this village stood right in the middle of route N13, which the Germans would have most likely used on any significant counterattack on the troops landing on Utah and Omaha Beaches. In the early morning of 6 June 1944 mixed units of the U.S. 82nd Airborne and U.S. 101st Airborne Divisions occupied the town in Operation Boston, giving it the claim to be one of the first towns liberated in the invasion.

The early landings, at about 0140 directly on the town, resulted in heavy casualties for the paratroopers. Some buildings in town were on fire that night, and they illuminated the sky, making easy targets of the descending men. Some were sucked into the fire. Many hanging from trees and utility poles were shot before they could cut loose. The German defenders were alerted.

A famous incident involved paratrooper John Steele, whose parachute caught on the spire of the town church, and could only observe the fighting going on below. He was later captured by a German soldier. The incident was portrayed in the movie The Longest Day.

Later that morning, about 0500, a force led by Lt. Colonel Edward C. Krause of the 505th PIR took the town with little resistance. Apparently the German garrison was confused and had retired for the rest of the night. However, heavy German counterattacks began later in the day and into the next. The lightly-armed troopers held the town, until reinforced by tanks from nearby Utah Beach in the afternoon of June 7.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainte-Mère-Église)

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The Airborne Museum (http://www.airborne-museum.org/accueil_uk.php)

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To be continued...
 
Excellent ! :thumb2
I've been to most of what you have visited (returning to Normandy this year) and it is great to see that the sites, memorials etc are better today than they were on my first visits. I'm going to do alot of re-visiting over the next couple of years and appreciate your write-up. :)
 
Crisbecq Battery

The battery of Crisbecq was built to be the main strongpoint of the Cotentin east coast, but only two casemates were completed out of four on D-Day. The position was heavily bombed in the night of 5-6 June 1944, however the battery was able to oppose to the Landing. On the D-Day the solid defensive system kept in check the American parachutists. On 7 June, the 210 mm guns sank a destroyer; at the end of the day the 4th Infantry Division was always stopped in front of the blockhouses.

The following day, three American battleships, together rammed the position and ended up reducing it to silence. The German Kriegsmarine garrison evacuated the battery in the night of 11-12 June. The Commander of the battery, Oberleutnant Omhsen, was distinguished for his action against the allied landing.

(Source: http://www.normandie44lamemoire.com/versionanglaise/fichesvillesus/crisbecqus2.html)

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Utah Beach

Utah Beach was the codename for one of the Allied landing beaches during the D-Day invasion of Normandy, as part of Operation Overlord on 6 June 1944. Utah was added to the invasion plan toward the end of the planning stages, when more landing craft became available.

Despite being substantially off course, the U.S. 4th Infantry Division landed there with relatively little resistance, in contrast to Omaha Beach where the fighting was fierce.

Utah beach, about 3 miles (5 km) long, was the westernmost of the five landing beaches, between Pouppeville and La Madeleine.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utah_Beach)

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Pointe du Hoc

Pointe du Hoc (often spelled as its Parisian French name "Pointe du Hoe" in official Army documents) is best known for the assault made on it by the US Army Rangers during the World War II Normandy landings, June 6, 1944.

The Germans had built, as part of the Atlantic Wall, six casemates to house a battery of captured French 155mm guns. With Pointe Du Hoc situated between Utah Beach to the west and Omaha Beach to the east, these guns threatened Allied landings on both beaches, risking heavy casualties in the landing forces.

Although there were several bombardments, which consisted of more total firepower than the bomb Little Boy, from the air and by naval guns, intelligence reports assumed that the fortifications were too strong, and would also require attack by ground forces. The US 2nd Ranger Battalion was therefore given the task of destroying the strongpoint early on D-Day.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pointe_du_Hoc)

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Omaha Beach

Omaha Beach was the codename for one of the principal landing points of the Allied invasion of German-occupied France in the Normandy landings on June 6, 1944, during World War II. The beach was located on the northern coast of France, facing the English Channel, and was 5 miles (8 km) long, from east of Sainte-Honorine-des-Pertes to west of Vierville-sur-Mer. Taking Omaha was to be the responsibility of United States Army troops, with sea transport provided courtesy of the U.S. Navy and elements of the Royal Navy.

On D-Day, the untested 29th Infantry Division, joined by 8 companies of U.S. Rangers redirected from Pointe du Hoc, was to assault the western half of the beach. The battle-hardened 1st Infantry Division was given the eastern half. The primary objective at Omaha was to secure a beachhead between Port-en-Bessin and the Vire River, before pushing southward toward Saint-Lô.
Omaha became a tragedy for the U.S. troops.

At dawn almost all the landing craft missed their targets, and troops took heavy casualties crossing the beach. The heavily defended exits off the beach could not be taken, causing congestion and delaying later landings. Small footholds were not won until midday, when random groups of survivors succeeded in improvised assaults up the bluffs between the exits.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omaha_beach)

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Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

The Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial is a World War II cemetery and memorial in Colleville-sur-Mer, Normandy, France, that honors American soldiers who died in Europe during World War II.

On June 8, 1944, the U.S. First Army established the temporary St. Laurent cemetery, the first American cemetery on European soil in World War II. After the war, the present-day cemetery was established a short distance to the south of the original site. France has granted the United States a special, perpetual concession to the land occupied by the cemetery, officially making it United States soil.

The cemetery is located on a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach (one of the landing beaches of the Normandy Invasion) and the English Channel. It covers 70 ha (172 acres), and contains the remains of 9,387 American military dead, most of whom were killed during the invasion of Normandy and ensuing military operations in World War II. The graves face westward, towards the United States.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normandy_American_Cemetery_and_Memorial)

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To be continued...
 
Bayeux

During the Second World War Bayeux was one of the first French towns to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy, and on June 16, 1944 General Charles de Gaulle made his first important speech on liberated French soil in Bayeux. The buildings in Bayeux were virtually untouched during the Battle of Normandy as the German forces defending the town were pulled away to help defend Caen. The town hosts the largest British war cemetery in Normandy.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayeux)

(http://www.normandie44lamemoire.com/versionanglaise/fichesvillesus/bayeuxus2.html)

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Gold Beach

Gold Beach was the Allied codename for the centre invasion beach during the World War II Allied invasion of Normandy, June 6, 1944. It lay between Omaha Beach and Juno Beach, was 8 km wide and divided into four sectors. From West to East they were How, Item, Jig, and King.

The task of invading Gold Beach was given to the British 50th (Northumbrian) Infantry Division commanded by Major General D.A.H. Graham, and the British 8th Armoured Brigade of the 2nd Army under Lieutenant General Miles Dempsey. The beach was assaulted in multiple brigades of the 50th Infantry Division; on the West was the 231st Brigade, followed by the 56th Brigade, attached to this was a regiment of DD tanks from the Nottinghamshire Yeomanry, the infantry assault battalions that attacked in the West were; the 1st Battalion Hampshire Regiment, and the 1st Battalion Dorset Regiment. On the East 69th Brigade, followed by 151st Brigade, again a regiment of DD tanks was attached, they were from the 4th/7th Royal Dragoon Guards, the infantry assault battalions that attacked in the East were; the 5th Battalion East Yorkshire Regiment, and the 6th Battalion The Green Howards.

Their primary objective was to seize the town of Bayeux, the Caen-Bayeux road, and the port of Arromanches with the secondary objectives being to make contact with the Americans landing at Omaha Beach to the West and the Canadians landing at Juno Beach to the East. The German 716th Division commanded by Generalleutnant Wilhelm Richter, and elements of the 1st Battalion of the 352nd Division commanded by Generalleutnant Dietrich Kraiss, defended the Channel coast for the Germans.

H-Hour for the Gold beach landing was set for 07:25 and heavy initial resistance was reported. However after the British broke through the German lines, casualties began to drop off leaving the final toll at 400, mercifully fewer than those suffered at the bloody Omaha Beach.

By midnight on the evening of June 6, 1944 the British forces had landed 24,970 men on Gold Beach, and had penetrated six miles into occupied France. They fulfilled one of their secondary objectives by meeting up with the Canadians who had landed at Juno Beach but failed in their primary objective of reaching the Caen-Bayeux road and in their secondary objective of meeting the Americans from Omaha Beach. However they had established a foothold into fortress Europa that would ultimately be a stepping stone to victory.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_beach)

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Juno Beach

Juno Beach was one of the landing sites for Allied invaders on the coast of Normandy during D-Day. It was situated between Sword Beach and Gold Beach.

It is also known as the Canadian beach, as it was assigned to the 3rd Canadian Infantry Division (with the 2nd Canadian Armoured Brigade). Juno Beach stretched from Saint-Aubin-sur-Mer on the east to Courseulles-sur-Mer on the west. Both assault formations were placed under the command of British I Corps for the initial phase of the invasion, and did not come under Canadian command again until July 1944 and the establishment of Canadian II Corps headquarters in Normandy.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juno_beach)

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Pegasus Bridge

The Pegasus Bridge is a bascule bridge over the Caen canal, near Ouistreham, France. The bridge, also known as the Bénouville Bridge after the neighbouring village, was a major objective of the British 6th Airborne Division, which was landed units by glider near it during the Normandy Invasion on the 5th/6 June 1944. It was given the permanent name of Pegasus Bridge in honour of the operation. This name derives from the shoulder emblem worn by the attacking British, which is the flying horse Pegasus.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pegasus_Bridge)

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Falaise

The town was the birthplace of William I the Conqueror, first of the Norman kings of England. The castle (12th-13th century), which overlooks the town from a high crag, was formerly the seat of the dukes of Normandy.

The town is known for the battle of the "Falaise pocket" during the Allied reconquest of France in August 1944 in which two German armies were encircled and destroyed by the British 2nd Army. Some 10,000 German troops were killed and 50,000 taken prisoner. Two-thirds of Falaise was destroyed by Allied bombing before the town was taken by Canadian and Polish troops. Falaise was largely restored after the war.

Exhibits at the Museum of the Battle of the Falaise Pocket include several military vehicles, pieces of artillery, and other weapons.

(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falaise,_Calvados)

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OK, that is all from Normandy, few more pictures from Tank Museum in Saumur.

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That’s it, trip lasted eight days and we made around 4500 km.
 
Y'know, I was going to do a trip report of my week in Normandy in July. You've saved me a whole heap of work. :thumb2

Good job. :beerjug:
 
Great Stuff Damir Thank's

:beerjug:
Schultz
 


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