What kind of oil in the R1200GS?

Kave

Guest
On my break-in service at 1000km my dealer told me that he use Castrol 5W40 Synthetic oil, which he said can't be bought at a BMW shop. They are on vacation now so I can't ask them wether it is car oil or bike oil to be used? I stopped by a gas station and looked at the recommendations from Shell and they say 10W40 car oil is ok for all BMW R bikes.
Maybe I should empty the bike for oil and fill up with mineral oil instead of synth until it stopped using oil?
What are you folks using?
 
Not precisely the answer you wanted as I have an ADV, but I use (after dealer advice and lots of other owner's comments) Castrol GPS semi-synthetic.........I'm on 11k miles now and i'll switch to fully synthetic at about 20k when it's worn in better.

Don't use fully synthetic until she's properly loosened up or it'll never wear in!!!!
 
Mineral

Kave,

My dealer insisted that I don't use fully synth until the bike has stopped using oil.

I believe the problem with fully synth is it is too good, too slippy. Meaning that any high spots within the cylinders will not get worn down, and will result in the oil rings not fitting 100% to the shape of the cylinder. So the bike will always burn oil.

Whereas, mineral oil is't as slippy so there is more friction, and hence the high spots will get worn away and the rings will adapt to the shape of the cylinders.

There is also this site that has a different view of how to run an engine in......me I follwed instructions of the dealership 4K rpm up to 600 miles than after that run it firmly, but not in the red line. I only have 2000miles on the clock after 5 weeks but I would say the mid range has definitely improved and not so much oil being burnt on longer, faster runs. The commute this week (first time I've used this bike to commute on) has used up more oil but my journey 13 miles each way is pretty much all 2nd/3rd gear.

Cheers


Oh that link to engine break in process: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Fanum said:
Not precisely the answer you wanted as I have an ADV, but I use (after dealer advice and lots of other owner's comments) Castrol GPS semi-synthetic.........I'm on 11k miles now and i'll switch to fully synthetic at about 20k when it's worn in better.

Don't use fully synthetic until she's properly loosened up or it'll never wear in!!!!
So you suggest I empty the bike of the synth oil that dealer filled her up with? And fill up with mineral oil? It wouldn't cost me much since mineral oil is quite cheap, and I guess there is no need to change filter since I have only done 200km since service and a changed filter.
Or should I just top off bike with mineral oil as it consumes oil?
 
I'm just trying to get on the CAstrol site but it's all buggered........but before you go any further, what colour is the oil in the sight glass?

If it's a nice rich red colour I suspect the dealer has actually put in the semi synth stuff (which is what it should be) and just told you incorrectly....I'd be really surprised if they'd put in fully synthetic oil!
 
Still can't get into castrol, but this is from the mobil oil site....

One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

Which is precisely the opposite of what i've always heard as being the conventional wisdom:confused:

My gut feeling though is still that as the fully synth stuff is specifically designed to lower the wear, it'll slow if not prevent altogether the wearing in process of the engine.

I'll keep looking....this is interesting!

(I'll get me anorak:rolleyes: :D )
 
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quote:
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One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
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If you look long enough you'll find someone that will tell you what you want to here. What a load of Sh#T. All the latest bike and car manufactures still have break in periods. BMW even say it in print do not use synthetic oil in bikes and cars as well Jeep does too. Why would you want to do what they do not recommend.:confused:
 
Fanum said:
I'm just trying to get on the CAstrol site but it's all buggered........but before you go any further, what colour is the oil in the sight glass?

If it's a nice rich red colour I suspect the dealer has actually put in the semi synth stuff (which is what it should be) and just told you incorrectly....I'd be really surprised if they'd put in fully synthetic oil!
It's red yes. Almost as TTF oil :)
So It probably is semi synthetic then. I guess I buy some Castrol oil if I can find some, Castrol's swedish site doesn't list where it can be bought.
I just checked with Micaepeak.com, and he claims we can use car oil in the R bikes, since the gearbox and engine use separate oils.
 
I think that this 'don't use synthetic oil until your BMW bike has done 20k or so miles is just a massive urban myth!

Here's why:

Assuming proper grade, decent quality and cleanliness, all engine oils that any of us are likely to put into our bikes work pretty well.

So, if oils work well (and I suggest that for practical purposes they are all as 'slippery' as each other), how does engine wear occur?

Firstly, wear occurs on start-up, when much of the oil has drained from the bearings and wear surfaces. In the initial turns of the engine before the oil has circulated, wear rates are at their maximum.

Secondly, wear occurs when the mechanical/physical effects exceed the lubrication scope. For example, if too thick oil is used, the oil cannot be drawn into the pump at a sufficient rate to supply the engine (esp when cold). Another example might be if the engine is reved so fast that the oil centrifuges from the main bearings to the big ends leaving the mains starved and under high load. (This is a big problem with the old 'A'-series engine). Finally, God knows how much oil is circulated if a bike is dropped on its side when the engine is still running!

Thirdly, engine wear occurs when the oil, itself, fails. Oil failure might occur because of contamination, overuse (the polymer chains break down) or overheating.

I can't really imagine why anyone would want to accelerate the wear on their engine. OK, you might say that you want to reduce the oil consumption. But surely oil comsumption from blow-by increases as wear increases? Even if that's not the case, I'd prefer to throw in more oil when the engine is young - and have it last, say, 200k miles, than deliberately accelerate its youthful wear but have it shagged at 100k miles.

So I have used fully synthetic from the first time that I did the oil change (12k miles - dealer serviced before then).

Finally, Mobil say of their oil: "Mobil 1synthetic motor oil outperforms conventional motor oil. Historically, conventional oils lack the performance of synthetic oils in the areas of low-temperature oxidation stability. Mobil 1 also provides superior high-temperature stability and protection against deposits. These attributes translate directly into less engine wear and longer engine life." (my emphasis).

I vote for longer engine life!

Greg
 
Kave said:
I just checked with Micaepeak.com, and he claims we can use car oil in the R bikes, since the gearbox and engine use separate oils.

Yes, you can use car oil in an R-series BMW, but it's not because the engine/gearbox is separate, but because the clutch doesn't run in oil.

Car oils have friction modifiers (to make them more slippery(!)) that would permanently mess up a wet-plate clutch.

Greg
 
My dealer (BMW Solna) recommended using mineral oil until the 10000km service, then use synthetic.
 
Kave said:
So you suggest I empty the bike of the synth oil that dealer filled her up with? And fill up with mineral oil? It wouldn't cost me much since mineral oil is quite cheap, and I guess there is no need to change filter since I have only done 200km since service and a changed filter.
Or should I just top off bike with mineral oil as it consumes oil?

Is there an issue with changing from synthetic back to mineral? The advice I always remember is not to do that, don't know why. Might be worth checking out before doing it.

If you do decide to do it I would also change the filter no matter how old it is.
 
Garfieldus said:
Is there an issue with changing from synthetic back to mineral? The advice I always remember is not to do that, don't know why. Might be worth checking out before doing it.

If you do decide to do it I would also change the filter no matter how old it is.

There's no issue; that's an old wive's tale. Some of the very first synthetic oils had compatibility problems, but those problems were solved decades ago.

Dump the semi-synth and go back to dead dinosaur oil. Any decent quality oil will do.
 
kiwiAdventure said:
[


If you look long enough you'll find someone that will tell you what you want to here. What a load of Sh#T. All the latest bike and car manufactures still have break in periods. BMW even say it in print do not use synthetic oil in bikes and cars as well Jeep does too. Why would you want to do what they do not recommend.:confused:

Just curious, just WHERE has BMW written that? My 2001 MRoadster came from the factory with synth as did my 2003 330i. I did a quick, casual scan of our R1200GS and K1200GT owners manuals and found no such warning. Now personally, I'll use mineral until 6k because there is SOME break-in going on but I'll prolly change to synth after that so I don't have to worry about oil changes while on the road.

As always, oil is a religious discussion... ;)
 
Check this month's (August '04) TWO, there's a feature on why engines DO still require running in.

DEFINITELY dump the synthetic oil right away and put mineral oil in. Since BMW recommend Castrol oils, the one to use for now is GP, followed by GPS (semi-synthetic) once it stops using oil.

If Castrol are telling us to use cheaper stuff, and Mobil say use their expensive stuff, who do you trust? ;)
 
DEFINITELY dump the synthetic oil right away and put mineral oil in.

I think we've concluded that the actual oil in Kave's bike is Castrol GPS, which is SEMI-synthetic and exactly what I have in my bike on BMW's advice.

Therefore, don't dump it......:rolleyes: :D
 
Sorry, I was reading this a bit quickly at work. I've got TWO's article here, to summarise, running in is necessary to surface-finish the pistons, bores etc.
With respect to oils, the following is quoted from the Castrol Technology Centre:

"Surface stabilisation continues for at least the first 5000 miles of an engine's life. Synthetic oils actively prevent this from happening. The consequence of using a synthetic too early is your engine will never run in properly. I (their spokesman) would even suggest waiting until 10,000 miles before using it in most engines subjected to normal use. Until then, you're best to use an inexpensive but branded mineral oil."
"When you do reach the mileage where a synthetic will start to be of benefit, only use a fully synthetic if it's specifically designed for motorcycles with wet clutches (doesn't apply to our dry clutches), otherwise, go for a semi-synthetic."

Hope this helps.
 
SEMI-synthetic

One of my last bikes was a Honda and I researched the use of Synthetic oil in it. My advice along with Honda's and other bike manufacturers is:
After the run in period a USE SEMI-synthetic oil. My 2cents worth

Safe Riding
CliveS
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