Stiffer springs

Captain Black

Captain Black

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Just ordered some hagon fork springs for my lad's F650 Dakar to try and improve the softness and dive under breaking. I'm thinking whats the best fork oil to get a firmer feel. Has anyone fitted a pair of these, and is it a tricky job to do ? I've got new for seals to fit as well, going to keep the original dust seals as i'm fitting gaitors to it.
Seem's like i will have to jack the bike under the belly pan to get bot forks out, anyone got any tip's on this ? Thanks.

Oh as an aside, Halfords are selling 5 litres of 15/40 mobil super 1000 multigrade for 19.99 it's on offer i think.:thumb2
 
Did it many moons ago but have since moved on to installing a Yam YZ250 front end.

Fork springs are easy. Undo the tops, pull out old springs, put new ones in, refit tops.

If you're changing the fork seals, check that the guide bushes don't need doing too. Buy a couple of new crush washers for the fork oil drain bolts.

It's easier to undo the bottom bolt and cap nut when they're still held in the yokes. But however you do it, definitely undo the bottom bolt before you disassemble each leg. Once the bolts are undone, oil drained and leg out of yokes - pry off dust seal, take out fork seal clip and pull the leg and stanchion apart. It'll take a couple of decent pulls to get them apart. Make a seal driver from some waste pipe (can't remember the correct diameter). Check, clean and reassemble.

I think the last time I changed the seals I used 10W oil. :thumb2

According to BMW gaiters are supposed to restrict the air flow to the radiator. :nenau
 
Dansin said:
Did it many moons ago but have since moved on to installing a Yam YZ250 front end.

Fork springs are easy. Undo the tops, pull out old springs, put new ones in, refit tops.

If you're changing the fork seals, check that the guide bushes don't need doing too. Buy a couple of new crush washers for the fork oil drain bolts.

It's easier to undo the bottom bolt and cap nut when they're still held in the yokes. But however you do it, definitely undo the bottom bolt before you disassemble each leg. Once the bolts are undone, oil drained and leg out of yokes - pry off dust seal, take out fork seal clip and pull the leg and stanchion apart. It'll take a couple of decent pulls to get them apart. Make a seal driver from some waste pipe (can't remember the correct diameter). Check, clean and reassemble.

I think the last time I changed the seals I used 10W oil. :thumb2

According to BMW gaiters are supposed to restrict the air flow to the radiator. :nenau
Click to expand...

Star man ..Thank you! Not sure how to check guide bushes but the bike only has 12k miles so hope they're ok. Just want to try and do it all in one go. Managed to snap the stud on the fork brace, the one that holds the cable guide so that's going to my pals next week to weld a washer and nut on where it sticks out of the threaded hole on the fork...bit of a bummer but can be sorted:blast

Thanks again though!!:D
 
Guide bushes

At 12k they're probably fine. With the oil and spring out and fork extended, check for excessive lateral movement between the two halves. If there's a load of play, replace them.
 
Dansin said:
At 12k they're probably fine. With the oil and spring out and fork extended, check for excessive lateral movement between the two halves. If there's a load of play, replace them.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks
 
Hmmm the hagons are about 1" longer than the standard springs. Will it all go back together with the original internals ? i'm thinking mainly of the last washer that sits on the spring and that short steel tube.
I'll pour oil in before i put them back on the bike a fasten the top nut.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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