Sand blaster !

the civil one

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Any of you chappies got any experiance of sand blasters,
i was lookin at one of Draper tools hobbyist ones ,
then i was lookin at the 10 gallon ones on Ebay
Any pointers !
 
what are you up to now.........ya nutter?

doing a sideline in agein' beams for over the fireplace?

or is the bus gettin a spot or two of rust with you going down the Port too often?


the only thing i know is that sandblasting is a very dirty job, dust everywhere.

and you need a lot of air to run them ( not just hot air;) )
 
What does the "10 gallon" refer to - the capacity of the compressor tank?

Used one a couple of times. You need to ensure that the blasting cabinet is big enough to take the largest item you think you'll blast + a bit more. The access hatch needs to be a reasonable size & the compressor needs to be able to fill the air tank relatively quick.

You should also research the different blasting grits as they can give very different results, depending on the material you're blasting, some are more suitable than others for certain metals.

They can also be quite noisy in a confined space, wear ear defenders.

Dependent on space & cost, it may be worth your while considering a used industrial version? Check out used machinery magazines or local free ads papers.
 
don't use one ANYWHERE* near where might be doing any mechanical work, especially with engines.
the damage that stray blast media can do is astonishing.

*this means not in the same building, preferably address.
 
Hi, I bought the sandblatsing gun from sealey (£20.00)and made a small cabinet out of an old 8x4 of ply using an old piece of perspex for the window. The only other thing I had to purchase was an air drier (£38.00!!!!!!) for my compressor as the sand / grit is very sensitive to damp. Also the biggest limiting factor is the cfm output of the compressor U R using.

Using the thing is a lot slower than a commercial blaster but very satisfying when ypou see the finished parts.

Mike.
 
Engine casin

I was just lookin to do a wee bit of engine casing refurbishing
I,ve got a 98 guzzi and the casings look a little tatty.
I was rubbin away with light sand paper and using paint remover ,which surprisingly brought the wee bit i had done up well.But , that was a lot of work and was lookin for an easier way
So i was thinkin bout a wee "Hobbyist job " thinkin i could,nt do too much harm .
Is there a lot of dust from the Sealey number , would you think it suitable for this wee job.
Do you want to sell yours !
 
You'd be far better off taking the bits to a company specialising in blasting work.

They'd have a range of blast medium, glass bead, grit wet and dry.

Probably cost a few euro's but far less messy
 
In one of my previous lives, I used to work with sand-blasting, grit-blasting, glass-beading, shot-peening and a plastic media that would strip paint and clean things with no (or little - depending on the base material) peening of the surface (a sort of blast the crap off instead of out of :D )

I was also involved with some electro-plating processes (all this being mainly aero-related - apart from the odd "homer" or "foriegner" that was bike or auto related :D ) so if anyone wants to know anything about these processes, please ask and I'll see what I can remember.

Lee
 
Mother Ireland !

I just have !
My Guzzi engine casing look a little tatty ,
Should i continue ,with light sand paper and nitromours
or purchase one of the hobbyist jobs ,?

Who ever mentioned that they have one , would you sell it
 
Sorry Civil, it must be my Waterford ancestry kicking in :D :D :D

From what I remember, you mask off any areas that will not / should not be blasted with something like a heavy duty cloth based tape (normal masking tape is no good as the sand will just blast through it).
Make sure all holes are bunged (we always used rubber ones) as any media getting in is a pain to remove.
Always blast at the lowest possible pressure.
After blasting with sand, you can then get a really nice finish by then blasting with glass bead (you can leave the same masking on, just make sure it's still covering what should be covered).
Then remove the masking and all the sticky residue the masking leaves (tip: to help remove any sticky bits dab at it with a new bit of sticky tape)
When you've done all that, make sure all traces of media have gone from holes, crevaces, etc.
You can then polish, apply lacquer or whatever you wish to do.

Other than that, you could go to a metal treatments / finishing shop and ask them to do it for you (unless you know someone who works there ;) )

I hope this is of some help as I'm not a typist and it's taken fekkin ages to do :D :D :D
 
Used a Sealey sand blast gun wasn't expensive under £30 I think but can find out for you if interested? The grit comes back at you with some force best is a full face shield, my suggestion is use a cabinet if possible or make one. Tried blasting cylinder head cover magnesium the particles that come off ignite quite a nice effect!
 


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