difference between mineral and synthetic 20-50

arunnangla

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hello guys,

Which one is best for my 1150gsa 05 ? Mineral or synthetic 20-50 oil.
I'm not sure.
one of my good friend said just use mineral oil..but its too hard to find mineral oil in USA.
 
Main difference will be price and longevity.

Mineral base is cheaper, synthetic base lasts longer before it breaks down. With 5 or 6,000 mile change intervals, this won't matter. Synthetic is for vehicles with 10 or 12,000 - mile plus change intervals.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral will all mix OK, despite ill-informed advice you may find to the contrary

The main thing is the quality of the additive package. Detergents, anti-friction agents etc. Any reputable brand will have a good formulation. Look for API SL classification.

As your 1150 has a dry clutch, like most cars and a few other bikes, you do not need a motorcycle grade of oil (with a wet clutch, you would need JASO MA or MA2 grade).

So, any API SL (you could use SF, SG or SH as these grades were originally specified, but they are now obsolete) reputable brand of automobile oil. Over to you as I am not familiar with US brands.

Personally, I use Valvoline VR1.

Hope this helps. You can now expect much mockery from the other denizens of this forum, for daring to ask about oil. Enjoy :D
 
Main difference will be price and longevity.

Mineral base is cheaper, synthetic base lasts longer before it breaks down. With 5 or 6,000 mile change intervals, this won't matter. Synthetic is for vehicles with 10 or 12,000 - mile plus change intervals.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral will all mix OK, despite ill-informed advice you may find to the contrary

The main thing is the quality of the additive package. Detergents, anti-friction agents etc. Any reputable brand will have a good formulation. Look for API SL classification.

As your 1150 has a dry clutch, like most cars and a few other bikes, you do not need a motorcycle grade of oil (with a wet clutch, you would need JASO MA or MA2 grade).

So, any API SL (you could use SF, SG or SH as these grades were originally specified, but they are now obsolete) reputable brand of automobile oil. Over to you as I am not familiar with US brands.

Personally, I use Valvoline VR1.

Hope this helps. You can now expect much mockery from the other denizens of this forum, for daring to ask about oil. Enjoy :D



An excellent reply....clear , concise and devoid of mockery... the issue was obviously keeping the OP up at night :thumb
 
Alaska to Patagonia! Just found your Facebook page :thumby:

Have a great trip, looks like you're about ready for an oil change and a service at over 5,000 miles.

It's about 10 years since I was in SF, but I rented a little BMW from these guys www.dubbelju.com and found them helpful. Perhaps they would service your bike before you head south into bandit country?

Happy trails, I'll be following you on FB! :beerjug:
 
Synthetic is one of the most expensive cons on the market. Father is a service manager in a dealership and he had a petrochemist come in a few years back for service work while he was down on holiday. They got talking and he asked "why do you sell fully- synthetic oil" he said "he has to follow the manufactures spec for oils so he doesn't invalidate warranties."

The guy replied "but fully synthetic is designed to last the life of what it's being put into so in theory there is never any need to change it" He was working for one of the big oil firms aswell.

That said and it does make perfect sense, but who would leave there bike for any length oftime with the original oil in it. I've never yet use a fully-synthetic oil in any vehicle
 
SL grade

Main difference will be price and longevity.

Mineral base is cheaper, synthetic base lasts longer before it breaks down. With 5 or 6,000 mile change intervals, this won't matter. Synthetic is for vehicles with 10 or 12,000 - mile plus change intervals.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral will all mix OK, despite ill-informed advice you may find to the contrary

The main thing is the quality of the additive package. Detergents, anti-friction agents etc. Any reputable brand will have a good formulation. Look for API SL classification.

As your 1150 has a dry clutch, like most cars and a few other bikes, you do not need a motorcycle grade of oil (with a wet clutch, you would need JASO MA or MA2 grade).

So, any API SL (you could use SF, SG or SH as these grades were originally specified, but they are now obsolete) reputable brand of automobile oil. Over to you as I am not familiar with US brands.

Personally, I use Valvoline VR1.

Hope this helps. You can now expect much mockery from the other denizens of this forum, for daring to ask about oil. Enjoy :D

From personal experience (and other comments on here) the 'SL' grade is hard to find although Comma used to do it. Not sure if they still do now that the Brazilians have bought the brand off Esso.
Got some through Andrew Page motor factors who, i think, are a national chain:nenau.
 
but who would leave there bike for any length of time with the original oil in it.

Sold my first 1150 GS to a mate, back in about 2004..... and I'm not sure he's actually done an oil change yet :blast Reckons that as it uses a bit it will get replaced with top ups eventually :eek Least he still owns it :D
 
Alaska to Patagonia! Just found your Facebook page :thumby:

Have a great trip, looks like you're about ready for an oil change and a service at over 5,000 miles.

It's about 10 years since I was in SF, but I rented a little BMW from these guys www.dubbelju.com and found them helpful. Perhaps they would service your bike before you head south into bandit country?

Happy trails, I'll be following you on FB! :beerjug:

Thanks..service done today at Tucson, arizona.
 


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