F650GS rear axle binding or somesuch

fritz

fritz

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2000 bike, everything seems OK, no slack or obvious bearing wear, spacer (on disc side) in place, cush is a bit sloppy (not tweaked with inner tube bits etc as yet), axle rotates smoothly is greased and slides in an out (oh err) lovely, chain not too tight. Pads OK and pushed back out of way, alighment correct both sides

All spins with axle loose.

Tighten axle and it seems like some resistance - but can't fathom it.

Any clues? Got me stuck, and it's failed MOT so need a solution (would need one anyway)

I'm assuming the sloppy Cush isn't the issue - but could it be related?

Thinking about it, the one thing I didn't try :blast was tighting axle with chain off, but can't see that being the issue, it's consistant once wheel spun with axle tight.

No centre stand so it's a PITA mucking about with it all

Any suggestions welcome :thumb2
 
Is the axle in straight? Ie if the chain isn't running straight on the rear sprocket it will cause some binding.

Edit - don't solely rely on the marks on the adjusters, plus make sure they're pushed fully in on the adjuster bolts on the rear.
 
Bearings in the chain sprocket carrier fffffffffucked? (there's only the one)

There would be no play in the rear wheel if rear wheel bearings are OK

BUT knackered sprocket carrier bearings would/could give you what you have ...

:beerjug:
 
Dansin, think all OK there as been fine up til now, but will double check. ;)

Micky I'll check for that - as cush is a bit worn that wouldn't help, could be the cause :thumb guess I can put can put sprocket carrier on axle and check for play - will find out in a bit.
 
Micky said:
Bearings in the chain sprocket carrier fffffffffucked? (there's only the one)

There would be no play in the rear wheel if rear wheel bearings are OK

BUT knackered sprocket carrier bearings would/could give you what you have ...

:beerjug:
Click to expand...

Go to the top of the class sir :bow spot on

Mr boxer assisted with his MX stool and the bearing in sprocket carrier side had play - in fact, could see a couple of missing 'balls' and some mangled bits :eek: once seal out.

Local dealer had stock of bearing, £38 all four so should be able to sort w/o cost of re MOT. may as well do whole wheel

Can you get the dust seal 'rubbery bits' anywhere oither than BMW??
 
Online, Simply bearings or similar will sell you the bearings and seals or find a local bearing supplier. The last time I sourced some I used ebay.
 
Ta, I'll get measurements when I replace the bearings and use existing one in meantime to get MOT before it costs me :rolleyes:

Easy enough to change the bearing oil seal seperately - and probably daft not to :rob

I take it it isn't beyond a competant home mechanic (or me :p) providing you have blow torch, freezer and socket to use as drift? Strangly I've never had to change a wheel bearing :confused: they never went on the R80 or R100GS...yet

Guess this'll do it http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Steering_H....htm#Detailed Bearing Information & Resources
 
Use the old bearing as a drift if you can't find a socket that big, just be careful not to get it slightly stuck as you seat the new one....a hot air gun on the carrier helps:thumb
 
Fairly painless task.

First pic is before start.

Following instructions on that link, removed oil seal, dust cover whatever it's called, full of rust and kak - aha :rolleyes:

Second pic

The bearing that was exposed after all bits and bobs removed was evidently knacked - cage mashed out of existance and balls spread about :blast

Made it easy to remove initially as centre came out allowing rest to fall out leaving only outer in place.
 

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the bastart circlip was an absolute twat to get out - ends nearly touching and stilll not springing out - managed to shift end out out a little and edged it round until free and put aside with the daft additional washer.

Cleaned carrier up - hell -- it's silver not black :eek: as went in oven for 0.5hr at 100C - bearing had been in freezer a few hours ;)

Worked a treat - almost fell in to start. Didn't have a socket right size - think a 34mm (may be remembering wrong mind) would be perfect, but had an old bit of scrap from some other seal that was close so carefully drove home and put circlip back easily and the daft washer before the final bearing - speed of essence, strike while hot! Went in OK and driven til almost on washer.

Allowed to cool and resused seal just until I get a new one, sorted.

Massive difference :thumb2
 
Main thing I've learned from this is allways, but allways, have a look and play with your bearing when you have the wheel out. These ones have just been waiting to fail and it's always easier to get stuff in before it's a rush. Managed to get MOT before the 10 days were up though. Next I'll likely do rear wheel bearings as I don't think I'd rely on them being tip-top tastic. They are not very well protected on the sprocket carrier to my mind so worth keeping an eye on. Easy to do as the wheel won't fit in the oven by comparison :D
 
Make sure that the you slide the spacer on the INSIDE of the sprocket carrier, not the outside - I did that accidentally and destroyed a wheel bearing bu putting too much axial load on it when I tightened up the axle.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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