Panama Border crossing.
The next day the Panama border is a definite and I decide that I don’t want to be treated like a school boy
at this border and so prepare all the paperwork they could possibly want, prepare all the Spanish questions I could possibly need (or at least hope to need) and resolve to only enlist the assistance of a watcher for the bike whilst I’m doing the business. 
I arrive and it is the usual waving and gesturing, albeit on a smaller scale. I set the bike down and ask for the services of a “man who will watch my bike”. I get a volunteer straight away and the offer of a guide. I consider the maze of windows and formalities 
, and that there is no one person I can ask what will be required at this border, …….and decide to ask how much ? ..the approximate answer was it was up to me…again.
This time however I did keep in control and the young men were aware of it and so I didn’t just hand over everything willy-nilly. At one point my bike was supposed to be inspected but I had the offer of this being wavered for a charge of $2, I asked if this was legitimate and guide said it was for the Inspectors coffee money so I asked for my bike to be inspected ( I really didn’t want to encourage more fraudulent activities ….my guide spoke to him and he didn’t bother with it anyway, and just waved me through his offices without ever once looking me in the eye (that I remember).
The process with this guide was very smooth, the guide didn’t leave me alone and was helpful advising of what was coming (more fumigation) and that the Panamanians were an hour ahead of the Costa Ricans, and that there would be a Police checkpoint 5 miles into Panama. At the end of it all I told him that he had done a good job
and asked him honestly what he would normally get. He shied away from a figure so I said was $6 ok ?, he said it was ok for him, but not enough for him and his mate(who’d been watching my bike). $6 each would be good, I said no, $10 was enough. His mate, who was going to get the lesser portion looked satisfied and my guide waited for me to pull out $2 more after I handed him a $10 bill, but I said that $10 was enough again. They both seemed quite content, we shook hands and I left for the Police barrier 5 miles further down the road.
I pass through the barrier and have a desire for McDonalds, something that I know won’t upset my stomach further. I can’t see one but do see a KFC and so settle for that. In many countries, including the States, KFC can be really disgusting (I actually do like the British KFC), but this was a good one and I enjoyed eating food that probably hasn’t got Salmonella.
That done I head for Boquette, which is known for its coffee growing in the hills, and it is the only place in Panama where it is cool enough that all showers have (to have) hot water. The wind starts to get very high and at one point wonder if I will get struck as John and I were in Mexico, but no, I get there and whilst trying to settle on a Guesthouse, I meet a fellow Brit and biker, Phil. We get to chatting…and chatting…and chatting.. and I try to secure a room where he’s staying but they want $29 per night and can only do that for one night….and I wanted it for two at about half that price. I say no and try next door. They have small Cassitas’s (small rooms formerly used for maids etc but now used for guests), at the side of their house and I manage to get a really lovely one for $14 per night. I’m very pleased.
I also arrange to go out for dinner with my new neighbour Phil later.
We have a couple of beers and learn of each others previous escapades, and something of our lives in England. I hear that Phils host in his guesthouse, La Topaz, has offered to take some of his guests up to his coffee plantation to see it and to enjoy the walk back down into town on the following day. The offer is to be discussed and confirmed over breakfast the following morning.
The next day the Panama border is a definite and I decide that I don’t want to be treated like a school boy
at this border and so prepare all the paperwork they could possibly want, prepare all the Spanish questions I could possibly need (or at least hope to need) and resolve to only enlist the assistance of a watcher for the bike whilst I’m doing the business. I arrive and it is the usual waving and gesturing, albeit on a smaller scale. I set the bike down and ask for the services of a “man who will watch my bike”. I get a volunteer straight away and the offer of a guide. I consider the maze of windows and formalities , and that there is no one person I can ask what will be required at this border, …….and decide to ask how much ? ..the approximate answer was it was up to me…again. This time however I did keep in control and the young men were aware of it and so I didn’t just hand over everything willy-nilly. At one point my bike was supposed to be inspected but I had the offer of this being wavered for a charge of $2, I asked if this was legitimate and guide said it was for the Inspectors coffee money so I asked for my bike to be inspected ( I really didn’t want to encourage more fraudulent activities ….my guide spoke to him and he didn’t bother with it anyway, and just waved me through his offices without ever once looking me in the eye (that I remember).
The process with this guide was very smooth, the guide didn’t leave me alone and was helpful advising of what was coming (more fumigation) and that the Panamanians were an hour ahead of the Costa Ricans, and that there would be a Police checkpoint 5 miles into Panama. At the end of it all I told him that he had done a good job
and asked him honestly what he would normally get. He shied away from a figure so I said was $6 ok ?, he said it was ok for him, but not enough for him and his mate(who’d been watching my bike). $6 each would be good, I said no, $10 was enough. His mate, who was going to get the lesser portion looked satisfied and my guide waited for me to pull out $2 more after I handed him a $10 bill, but I said that $10 was enough again. They both seemed quite content, we shook hands and I left for the Police barrier 5 miles further down the road.I pass through the barrier and have a desire for McDonalds, something that I know won’t upset my stomach further. I can’t see one but do see a KFC and so settle for that. In many countries, including the States, KFC can be really disgusting (I actually do like the British KFC), but this was a good one and I enjoyed eating food that probably hasn’t got Salmonella.
That done I head for Boquette, which is known for its coffee growing in the hills, and it is the only place in Panama where it is cool enough that all showers have (to have) hot water. The wind starts to get very high and at one point wonder if I will get struck as John and I were in Mexico, but no, I get there and whilst trying to settle on a Guesthouse, I meet a fellow Brit and biker, Phil. We get to chatting…and chatting…and chatting.. and I try to secure a room where he’s staying but they want $29 per night and can only do that for one night….and I wanted it for two at about half that price. I say no and try next door. They have small Cassitas’s (small rooms formerly used for maids etc but now used for guests), at the side of their house and I manage to get a really lovely one for $14 per night. I’m very pleased.
I also arrange to go out for dinner with my new neighbour Phil later. We have a couple of beers and learn of each others previous escapades, and something of our lives in England. I hear that Phils host in his guesthouse, La Topaz, has offered to take some of his guests up to his coffee plantation to see it and to enjoy the walk back down into town on the following day. The offer is to be discussed and confirmed over breakfast the following morning.
