Peru - Lima to Machupicchu and back

ExploringRTW

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13 - 28 May


My bike finally arrived in Peru!

Since the start of March the bike had been with Shippers in Miami. From England with my leg up on the sofa in the cast I had sent several e-mails and made numerous phone calls trying to ascertain progress and arrival dates in Peru! After about a month of hassling I finally got a reply when I threatened them with legal action. It appears that in the last month they had moved offices and somehow all my papers went missing. So after a few E-mails to the owner of the company things started to happen. I won’t go into all the details but the bike made it onto the ship at the third attempt. The first attempt failed as the brokers didn’t sort out the Haz Mat documents for the bike so the shipping line rejected it. There was a further delay as the broker had gone on holiday and know one knew where the bike was being stored to get the Haz Mat certification. The next attempt failed as there was no paperwork for the wooden crate so I had to pay to get it re-crated. It finally made the ship on the 28 April and the ship docked on the 10 May. :bounce1

The next step was to get the Peruvian brokers working to get the bike and my gear to me…
I had already E-mailed them from Nasca and first thing Monday morning I called them to arrange a meeting to start the paperwork handover. This was arranged for first thing Tuesday so we spent the rest of the day was spent wandering around town and getting new front headlamp guards made ( The Perspex ones we had were showing signs of all the tumbles).
The next morning, Neomi, the broker who was assisting me picked me up from the hostel and took me into their offices. We went through the usual copying of passports, driving licences etc. When we got to the itinerary of what was on the bike the first problem appeared. In Peru it is not possible to ship personal effects with any asset! (I found out later this was due to the way their computer system worked!). The personal effects would have to be physically separated from the bike and treated as two import items. So the brokers kicked off this process whilst I chased the American shippers who hadn’t paid the steam-line, which was preventing my bike from starting the customs clearance process.

Since our last visit to the Casa Nostra the Downstairs dorm’s had been invaded by Israeli travellers (our own little west bank). Of all travellers in the world the Israeli’s are known as the worst. On their own they are fine but they tend to travel in large groups of 10-15 and then they have no regard for anyone else. After a couple of nights being kept awake most of the night by shouting, banging doors and the TV being turned up loud and several complaints to the owners, they finally arrange for one of them to stay up all night controlling the noise. Its not brilliant but better. :argue

A couple of days since the visit to the brokers and some too-ing and fro-ing of e-mails I’m called into the office to go to the bike. Mike and I assume that it is to collect the bike so we both turn up with petrol and tools to get the bike going. When we are arrive at the brokers it appears we are a little premature as today we are just going to get a detailed inventory of everything in the create and separate my personal effects away from the bike. We arrived at the storage site and after the usual stamping of 20 documents more than you would have though necessary, we were given access to the crate.
It was the first time I had seen the bike for several months and it was mixed emotions. It was good to see it and it all looked OK with no signs of damage, but it looked very sad still covered in the Honduran dirt and with flat tyres. The inventory took 5 hours and everything was listed including serial numbers and where the things were manufactured! Once the inventory was complete the box was nailed up again.

Mike and I made freinds with a Canadian woman, Stephanie, and her son, Johvan, and Mike takes them both out for a ride on his bike. Whilst out with Stephanie they end up taking in the sun on a very uncrowded beach and doze off for just an odd minute or two here or there. When they come to leave, it is apparent that Mike´s BMW jacket has been stolen. :spitfire In it were both pairs of his riding gloves, over $200, a memory stick, creidt and debit cards.

Mariano takes Mike to the Police station in Miraflores but they say unless it turns up at a local market the following day, there is little hope for its recovery.

Most BMW items Mike has come across so far in South AMerica have been very expensive, more so than in the UK, and with the up and coming cold sections is anxious not to end up with a cheap or very expensive alternative. E-Bay is called up and a red Rallye 2 is spotted so Mike starts to track the price.

The next day was Friday and it had been a week trying to get the bike out of customs and it seemed no nearer. I went again to the brokers to sign some Notary papers to allow the brokers to do more on my behalf. After a quick conversation with them, they said that it was unlikely to be out before the end of the following week so Mike and I had a quick chat and decided to head for Cusco and Machupicchu that weekend and complete the Lares Valley tour we had booked a month or so ago but we would fly there rather than going by bike as originally planned.

With the decision made all we had to do was arrange the tickets and fly to Cusco! Jaquin one of the owners had a friend in a travel agent and he arranged the tickets. We contacted the tour company who verified we were still on the tour. That all said and done we packed our things and were leaving for the airport by 12:30 on Saturday. Writing it this it all looked controlled and organised…. Wasn’t quite the same in real life.

The flight from Lima to Cusco was amazing. The sky was completely clear and the views of deserts, green rolling hills with impossibly sloped fields cut into the sides, high snow capped mountains, snow capped volcanoes, Large rivers meandering through the valleys, Waterfalls appearing from nowhere halfway up the side of hills and lakes forming at the few flat areas on the hill sides. The flight was just over an hour but seemed like just a few minutes.
All to soon we were at Cusco and a sharp left bank of the plane we were between the hills heading for the valley, still at 3600m, and landing.
The taxi ride was short to the town and relaxed compared to the driving around Lima.
A few days before we left, we had an e-mail from Phil who said he had found a good hotel near the Plaza de Armas. So we headed there and after a quick tour of the square we finally found the place. According to Phil’s last schedule when he contacted us he should have been gone but on arrival his bike was still parked in the hotel. So we quickly checked in and caught up with him in the local Irish Bar! :beerjug:

With the town being at altitude and the walk through the Lares Valley would take us up another 1000 metres we took the next two days at a leisurely pace with the exception of Mike frantically tracking and bidding on the Rallye 2 jacket replacement. He finally wins the auction to his relief and sets the wheels in motion for it to be sent with a new pair of gloves to Ernie at Overland Solutions to pack up and send out with a few other items via FedEx.

The first day of the Lares valley tour was a 7 am start in the main square. Whilst waiting for the van to turn up we met Jubal and Lizzy.
After some initial confusion over the number of sleeping bags required by the group we were off heading into the hills in the tour company van. After a couple of hours in the van we stopped at a town and told this was the last proper toilet stop for the next couple of days! One look at the local toilets and the word ‘proper’ took on a whole new meaning. So giving the town toilets a wide birth we hunted down a restaurant with toilet facilities and after about 15 mins we found one and only had time for a quick coffee before getting back on the bus. After another couple of hours and ruining a towns celebrations we stopped for lunch.

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The coach forcing its way through the crowd

The tour is organised with its own porters and cooks who travel ahead and prepare meals and set up the campsite for you. In our own little way we did feel like the early British explorers setting off into unknown lands with an entourage of staff.
The cooks and porters were on the bus with us so whilst they prepared lunch we were taken to some hot springs. Both Mike and myself had been in hot springs a few times now and on this occasion we just enjoyed the sun although the Aussies in the group (Davo, Kira & Sally) were brave enough to try them.
After Lunch, which was served in a tent with table and chairs (We do know how to rough it), our walk started. Whilst the others in the group loaded up with their rucksacks Mike and I loaded our day sacks. We had taken an option with the tour company for a porter to carry our sleeping gear and clothes. My excuse was I’m still recovering from the broken ankle…. Mike’s….Well I’ll leave that to your imagination.

The first day was a fairly easy walk and the group was very friendly and everyone got on well with each other. By the time we got to camp it was dark and we were at 3700 m and it was fairly chilly. When we arrived out tents had been erected and the food tent was ready for us. We quickly sorted out our belongings in the tents and settled down to dinner and were all in bed fairly early.

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All tucked up nice and warm...

Over night the temperature dropped to -5C and getting up before daylight wasn’t pleasant at all. Everyone seemed to have got some sleep overnight but no-one had a full nights sleep. The good news was the cook had been up before us and there was hot drinks and breakfast for us to tuck into. As the sun rose we could see we were in an absolutely beautiful valley, which apart from the introduction of electricity hadn’t changed for century’s. All the locals were dressed in traditional clothes with chickens, Pigs and dogs wandering around the campsite and just 50 metres across a field a herd of Llama’s were chewing on the dewy grass.

Views from the Camp Site...

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With breakfast complete and our packs ready to go we were taken into one of the buildings of a local farmer. The building was made of mud bricks with a grass roof and a mud floor. Inside it was one room. There was a small hearth for cooking and a hole in the roof to let out the smoke. The whole area around the hearth including the walls and the ceiling was covered in black tar from the wood that had been burnt. There was a bed made of wood, straw and animal hides and at the other end of the room were a number of guinea pigs. The house was still lived in by the farmer. It was a fair old shock to the senses to see that people still lived like this. Especially as we had come from Lima and that was so similar to a lot of European cities.

Views of the inside of the house...

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The first full day was the longest walk on the 4 day trek and also contained the highest pass at 4300 metres, so we head off along the trail taking in the views of the hills and mountains. The whole group mixed really well and you were never alone and short of conversation. It was 5 hours to we reached the highest peak and the last 200 metres was fairly steep and a real fight to get enough oxygen into the lungs.

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The pack horses...

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So what are you looking at....

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The group make it to the summit...

After a quick rest at the top and an Inca prayer for our safety we started heading down hill for a short distance before stopping for lunch and having a well earned snooze before heading off again.


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This little girl appeared 4000m up from nowhere and all on her own.

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The way down...

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Caught in the rush hour...

This time we reached the campsite in daylight and like the previous night we were camped at 3700m. The difference at this campsite was it was colder still and by the time dinner was finished, and the guide had completed his repertoire of jokes, everyone was heading off to bed to try and get warm. The short run from the dinner tent to the sleeping tents was slowed by the fantastic display of stars on this clear night. It appeared like a small child’s painting of the night sky. There millions of dabs of bright white on black background. Fantastic as it was, it was also freezing so it was only a quick glance and no photos as everyone dived into their tents to try and warm up. The next day we were all up early and we all had slept a lot better than the night before even though it dropped to at least -7C overnight.

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Breaking Camp...


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Mike´s gone native. The medics have been called.

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Most Peruvian girls are pretty... But there are some exceptions... (Davo)

The walk the following morning was an easy one as it was mainly down hill and was only for half of the day as we were taking the train from Ollantaytambo to Agua Caliante. On the way the guides took us into a local school to see the children and their learning surroundings. The guides gave the children a quick talk on looking after their environment as there are signs appearing of neglect (plastic bags etc), and it will ruin the local landscape as well as polluting the rivers. The group had a quick whip round and gave the children some biscuits which seemed to bring a smile to their faces!

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The school classroom...

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Some just can´t wait and open the biscuits...

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Not a place to leave your bike keys at the top...

We had lunch at Ollyentambo before saying goodbye to the cook and the porters and catching the train and our first night of the trip in a hotel with showers.

The next day was an early start as we were off to Machupicchu. Sadly some of the group seemed to have picked up some food poisoning and were far from the best of health. All bravely started the tour of the site and watching the sun rise on this fantastic monument.
The tour around the site was interesting and puzzling at the same time as no one is sure what the site was for. I won’t go into the history as you can find much better descriptions and details on the Web.

Machupicchu...

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After the tour, the few who hadn’t picked up food poisoning headed for Waynapicchu. This site is on the peak next to Machupicchu and is much higher. When you walk to this monument you have to sign in and out. On the route up you can see why. There are roughly carved steps with only a few had rails on one side and big drops on the other. The steps are steep and for most of the way are only wide enough for one person. Which makes it interesting as it is also the way down as well as the way up. We all finally made it after several rest stops and the views looking down over the valleys and onto Machupicchu its self were unbelievable.

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The healthy one´s assend Waynapicchu...

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Looking down at Machupicchu...

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Looking across at the hills...

The climb down was easier but more harrowing in places as you were looking down at the drops.

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One of the safer sections...

At the bottom it was a self congratulatory time :clap before catching the coach from Machupicchu to the hotel, a quick spot of lunch before catching the train back to Cusco. The train ride back was painfully slow. It took 5 hours or rattling along old tracks with the brakes in a state of constant squealing. The last few miles the train track was a switch back. The train osculated backwards and forwards across the hillside with the town constantly coming into then out of view.
When we were finally down we arranged to met up with Davo, Kira & Sally for a few Piscosours :beer: before retiring for a well earned kip.

During our walk we had seen a number of very poor families and children so the group decided to buy some clothes for the children as there is a high proportion of hypothermia in the Mountainous areas.- We also bought some pens, pencil, paper etc for the school as the teachers were sometimes having to pay for these themselves. Mike went out with a few of the group to buy these and these were handed to the tour company to distribute on their next trip. In all, approximately 14 warm tops and bottoms were bought and hopefully enough materials to last the school for around a year.

That evening the whole group apart from Jubal and Lizzy (they were still suffering from food poisoning) met up for dinner and went on to a night club to see the trip out in style!

The next day we flew back to Lima via Ariquipa looking forward to getting my bike out of customs…..

John
 
Last edited:
Excellent write-up. :thumb

Thanks.
 
very nice write up and pics, i was out there last september, hopefully you can still get guiness from paddys bar.

did you go out on the town whilst you were there, mama africas just gets going at 2am :D
 
Hi RC,

Sorry for the delay. Yes, we did go to Mama Africas the night after we returned from the Matchu Pichu with the group, that was after the Irish bar but before going to Norton Rats..... :D

Regards,

Mike

p.s. Where did your whole trip take you ?
 


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