12 July – 15 July
The next morning we were off to Uyuni with Phil, Katrin & Ralf. The route was a dirt road all the way. Compared to most roads I have ridden this was the most sandy by far and the first since I broke my leg. It was a hard ride down for me and I had one small tumble on some soft sand about half way. All was OK so I was able to continue but it was dusk by the time we reached Uyuni.
The Road to Uyuni...
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Ralf suffering a puncture
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One of the smaller river crossings...
Some more views of the route...
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We found a hotel for the bikes but it was cold and very basic. We settled into our rooms, Mike and me with our electric heater (Ahhh ).
That evening we went to the renowned Pizzeria owned by an American and his Bolivian wife. It lived up to its reputation. The Pizza’s were superb including the llama, onion and pineapple special that Mike picked!
We were up early and after filling up with petrol and having our bikes coated with Diesel (for the Salar) we headed for the train graveyard that this town is famous for. We spent an hour here looking at the old rusting steam trains and wagons before heading off to the Salar de Uyuni.
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Waiting for the bikes to be coated in diesel...
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One diesel coated bike...
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Ralf as the heralded engineer.... with that old bike he had to be
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You don't often see Bogies in this context...
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Damsel in Distress or Katrin?...
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Dastardly villain or Mike?...
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Bringing us back to reality of the world or is it relativity
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Least we are told where we are...
It was only a short trip to get onto the salt plain but it was the usual gravel road chewed up by 4 x 4.
We made it by early afternoon and before we left the UK we thought that this would be one of our highlights of the trip. We were not wrong.
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The sign saying we had made it...
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And proof we made it...
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The most detailed map we had seen in Bolivia...
The view and the whole expanse was breath taking. There was white as far as you can see. The immediate reaction was that it was snow or ice and not salt but once you stand on it and realise it is hard as concrete and very grippy the thoughts recede although do not disappear.
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The first wow moment..
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A group of French cyclists we met...Where else would you meet them!
We all started fairly cautiously but after a while we were up to 70 mph + all riding our own route and playing around crossing each other in wide sweeping passes. Great fun! And all on a world heritage site!
The general direction we were heading in was the Isle de Pescado which has accommodation for push bikers and Motorcyclists. We were soon at an Island which according to our GPS references was the Island but the sign welcoming us to the Island said something else! The island had a restaurant so a quick coffee and burger and after asking the staff on the island for directions we headed off again.
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The Island. The sleeping quarters is the building on the right...
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Who's the daddy....
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Phil ready to leave...
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Me leaving...
By now it was dusk so we had to make good time. We arrived at the next Island to find no accommodation so we head back to the first Island and ask if they have any rooms (This was the right Island all along. Why they sent us off we'll never know. The sign we found out later was the ketchuan name for the island). They said they had and we were shown to a long mud hut with small rooms, windows, grass roof but no electricity or heat. Ralf was feeling Ill so he and Katrin booked a room.
Mike and I had planned to camp out on the Salar but we knew that the temperatures drop to -25C overnight! I was just been getting over a cold and was planning to stay in a hotel for the night but given the accommodation I assumed that I would be warmer in a tent, so after an evening meal, Mike and I headed out from the Island into the open salt plain and picked a campsite! It was pitch black by now and the only light was from the headlamps of our bike which we used to pitch the tent.
Pitching the tent at night...
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The tent pitched and the bikes parked either side we cracked open some Pisco we had brought especially for tonight with some lemons and eggs to make Pisco sours, fired up dark side of the moon on the laptop , then enjoyed the drink, music and the star filled night sky on this surreal oasis.
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Piscos ready to go... Plus the Joyrider place mats and Norton Rats pisco...
We were given an additional treat by watching the moon rise on the horizon. It started off as a bright orange line that looked like car headlamps but slowly rose getting bigger into a blood red orange colour before finally ascending into the sky as a bright white light. Once risen the Salar lit up and we could see for miles and miles.
By now if was absolutely freezing and the moon was shining so brightly the stars were barely visible so we headed into the tent and started layering up with clothes for the night ahead!
To say we had a good sleep would be a complete lie. We weren’t particularly cold but each time I rolled over the cold draft was enough to wake me up. Mike was the same.
We had set our watches to wake us up for sun rise. It came too soon and not quick enough! And after just peering out of the tent for a while trying to brave the cold we finally got up, had a quick cup of tea and watched the sun rise, along with the temperature!
The sun rise Pictures... The next major Wow moments...
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Once the morning show was over we got on with the task of trying to start the bikes. Mikes was first and after 2 hours with the heater burning away underneath and hot towels on the engine the battery was almost flat from the attempts made to get it started. In the meantime Phil had come to see us from the Island. Saw we were OK, topped up his oil! And headed back for breakfast.
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Phil topping up his oil....!!!
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The frozen inner side of the tent!...
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We started heating mine and after an hour and a half mine was running and another half hour on Mike’s he was going as well! We finished packing the last of the gear and headed back to the Island for brunch as it was Midday!
Ralf still wasn’t feeling well so we decided to stay on the Island.
Late in the afternoon, Katrin, Phil, Mike and I headed out to explore and play! The photos say it all about the salar and our maturity...
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Sunset on the day...
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The night in the rooms on the Island was warmer but we all need a good shower and the next day Ralf was feeling better, so we headed off the solar after having a look at the Volcano which was at the northern point and exited at the southern point.
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Phil's luxury room on the Island...
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Getting the bikes started in the Morning...Cook for 20mins on a high heat...
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The required bike shot...
The salar is still wet at the edges...
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The road off was rough gravel and sand and we arrived at our destination for the evening at San Juan.
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The exit ramp...
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The nights accommodation...
John
The next morning we were off to Uyuni with Phil, Katrin & Ralf. The route was a dirt road all the way. Compared to most roads I have ridden this was the most sandy by far and the first since I broke my leg. It was a hard ride down for me and I had one small tumble on some soft sand about half way. All was OK so I was able to continue but it was dusk by the time we reached Uyuni.
The Road to Uyuni...
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Ralf suffering a puncture
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One of the smaller river crossings...
Some more views of the route...
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We found a hotel for the bikes but it was cold and very basic. We settled into our rooms, Mike and me with our electric heater (Ahhh ).
That evening we went to the renowned Pizzeria owned by an American and his Bolivian wife. It lived up to its reputation. The Pizza’s were superb including the llama, onion and pineapple special that Mike picked!
We were up early and after filling up with petrol and having our bikes coated with Diesel (for the Salar) we headed for the train graveyard that this town is famous for. We spent an hour here looking at the old rusting steam trains and wagons before heading off to the Salar de Uyuni.
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Waiting for the bikes to be coated in diesel...
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One diesel coated bike...
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Ralf as the heralded engineer.... with that old bike he had to be
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You don't often see Bogies in this context...
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Damsel in Distress or Katrin?...
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Dastardly villain or Mike?...
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Bringing us back to reality of the world or is it relativity
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Least we are told where we are...
It was only a short trip to get onto the salt plain but it was the usual gravel road chewed up by 4 x 4.
We made it by early afternoon and before we left the UK we thought that this would be one of our highlights of the trip. We were not wrong.
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The sign saying we had made it...
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And proof we made it...
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The most detailed map we had seen in Bolivia...
The view and the whole expanse was breath taking. There was white as far as you can see. The immediate reaction was that it was snow or ice and not salt but once you stand on it and realise it is hard as concrete and very grippy the thoughts recede although do not disappear.
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The first wow moment..
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A group of French cyclists we met...Where else would you meet them!
We all started fairly cautiously but after a while we were up to 70 mph + all riding our own route and playing around crossing each other in wide sweeping passes. Great fun! And all on a world heritage site!
The general direction we were heading in was the Isle de Pescado which has accommodation for push bikers and Motorcyclists. We were soon at an Island which according to our GPS references was the Island but the sign welcoming us to the Island said something else! The island had a restaurant so a quick coffee and burger and after asking the staff on the island for directions we headed off again.
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The Island. The sleeping quarters is the building on the right...
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Who's the daddy....
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Phil ready to leave...
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Me leaving...
By now it was dusk so we had to make good time. We arrived at the next Island to find no accommodation so we head back to the first Island and ask if they have any rooms (This was the right Island all along. Why they sent us off we'll never know. The sign we found out later was the ketchuan name for the island). They said they had and we were shown to a long mud hut with small rooms, windows, grass roof but no electricity or heat. Ralf was feeling Ill so he and Katrin booked a room.
Mike and I had planned to camp out on the Salar but we knew that the temperatures drop to -25C overnight! I was just been getting over a cold and was planning to stay in a hotel for the night but given the accommodation I assumed that I would be warmer in a tent, so after an evening meal, Mike and I headed out from the Island into the open salt plain and picked a campsite! It was pitch black by now and the only light was from the headlamps of our bike which we used to pitch the tent.
Pitching the tent at night...
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The tent pitched and the bikes parked either side we cracked open some Pisco we had brought especially for tonight with some lemons and eggs to make Pisco sours, fired up dark side of the moon on the laptop , then enjoyed the drink, music and the star filled night sky on this surreal oasis.
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Piscos ready to go... Plus the Joyrider place mats and Norton Rats pisco...
We were given an additional treat by watching the moon rise on the horizon. It started off as a bright orange line that looked like car headlamps but slowly rose getting bigger into a blood red orange colour before finally ascending into the sky as a bright white light. Once risen the Salar lit up and we could see for miles and miles.
By now if was absolutely freezing and the moon was shining so brightly the stars were barely visible so we headed into the tent and started layering up with clothes for the night ahead!
To say we had a good sleep would be a complete lie. We weren’t particularly cold but each time I rolled over the cold draft was enough to wake me up. Mike was the same.
We had set our watches to wake us up for sun rise. It came too soon and not quick enough! And after just peering out of the tent for a while trying to brave the cold we finally got up, had a quick cup of tea and watched the sun rise, along with the temperature!
The sun rise Pictures... The next major Wow moments...
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Once the morning show was over we got on with the task of trying to start the bikes. Mikes was first and after 2 hours with the heater burning away underneath and hot towels on the engine the battery was almost flat from the attempts made to get it started. In the meantime Phil had come to see us from the Island. Saw we were OK, topped up his oil! And headed back for breakfast.
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Phil topping up his oil....!!!
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The frozen inner side of the tent!...
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We started heating mine and after an hour and a half mine was running and another half hour on Mike’s he was going as well! We finished packing the last of the gear and headed back to the Island for brunch as it was Midday!
Ralf still wasn’t feeling well so we decided to stay on the Island.
Late in the afternoon, Katrin, Phil, Mike and I headed out to explore and play! The photos say it all about the salar and our maturity...
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Sunset on the day...
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The night in the rooms on the Island was warmer but we all need a good shower and the next day Ralf was feeling better, so we headed off the solar after having a look at the Volcano which was at the northern point and exited at the southern point.
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Phil's luxury room on the Island...
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Getting the bikes started in the Morning...Cook for 20mins on a high heat...
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The required bike shot...
The salar is still wet at the edges...
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The road off was rough gravel and sand and we arrived at our destination for the evening at San Juan.
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The exit ramp...
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The nights accommodation...
John
