San Juan was very small and after checking out one pretty grotty place we finally found somewhere to stay! Each room had two beds with very limited spring or length. There was no heating anywhere at all and the electricity was only available from 7pm until 9 pm (This was for the whole town!). The good news was there was a hot shower. There was also nowhere to eat in town so we had to cook dinner on the camping stoves!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182334.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John, just before we arrived at San Juan.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182244.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
San Juan...and what a relief it was to see.
Katrin and I set to the task of mixing the Tuna & tomato puree with a few other ingredients, such as sweet corn. Despite how it sounds, it was a great meal helped down with some wine which Phil managed to find. We also all got a hot shower each.
Unfortunatley Ralf was really ill during the night and was wiped out again the following day so we decided to stay in San Juan with Katrin and Phil for a further day. After a leisurely breakfast, Phil, John and myself had to move rooms due a tour having pre booked all the other rooms. Phil was given the owners daughters room which was the closest to nice we’d seen, whilst John and I were given a Bolivian prison cell !….well, that’s what it resembled. The room was about 8’ x 8’, had two worn out beds in it, all the walls and floors were just plain grey concrete, and remember there was no lighting or heating.
In the afternoon we walked up to the local ruins and cemetery where the open-style graves are created from coral.
During the later part of the day a group of French turned up on a 4x 4 tour turned up. They were all curious about our trip, but more importantly one was a Doctor who kindly offered to look at Ralf. He did so and basically gave Ralf some confidence that he had nothing seriously wrong with him in terms of not being able to ride etc.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182276.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The door of the entrance hut to the local Cemetry, the door is made of cactus wood.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182209.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of their street lamps, made from a wire bridged across two high-volttage pylon cables and a bulb in the bottom of a large Coke bottle. ..Children, don't try this at home !...even if your parents do !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182066.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Take one Dakar, add salt from the Salar Uyuni...and
.........clean quickly !!
During the evening Katrin and I worked on another carne(Spanish for meat) creation. This time using different flavoured soups as the basis for the sauce to go with our corned-beef. This was ok but didn’t work as well as the Tuna........... so the 5 bottles of wine that Phil had bought soon took away any unwanted memories of dinner soon after we’d eaten it .
Ralf also was able to join us and had some soup.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182161.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Sure you can buy Pasta, as long as you take it in our handy-sized 4kg packets !!
When we’d arrived we were given the option to order some bread from the local bakery, so we ordered 100 or so rolls
to make sure we had enough food as we continued our journey South. When they turned up, there looked to be far more than that…we had bags and bags of them. These rolls are about the size of a large Danish pastry. We all had a good laugh.(...and ending up eating nearly all of them in the end would you believe.)
The following morning we were all up very early for our anticipated 240km ride to Lago Colorado. At six the alarms went off and the dark cold concrete room with no light or heat did little to encourage us out of bed , but were still able to complain between ourselves about how the staff had forgotten to bring us our breakfast and how little you got for your money these days. However we knew the plan made sense so up we got. A quick splash of ice cold water on the face followed by an equally unpleasant tooth-clean had us ready to pack the bikes and for breakfast. Katrin was already busy in the kitchen and soon we had coffee and boiled eggs in front of us.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182332.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Breakfast at San Juan on the second morning....Ralf is with us again.
As soon as the cooker was done with for breakfast, it was under Ralfs bike to get it heated up for starting. There was a lot to organise in terms of apportioning out the food and water to carry on the bikes and Katrin did a very good job of organising it/us all.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182976.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Heat at full pressure for about 25 mins, and if there is enough power in your battery, your average BMW might just start.
The French, who were part of an organised trip in 4x 4 ’s, that had stayed the day before were very curious as we heated the engines and gradually got the bikes running one-by-one. Phils bike being the only exception which pretty much started first time…as usual. For those of you new to this site, he rides a KLR650 costing about 3,500 pounds, ............ grrrrrrr...... BMW..... ggrrrrrrrrr….World class motorcycles………grrrrrrrr…..
Finally we were packed, the bikes were running, and we were off by just after 9, we’d wanted to leave at 8.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181992.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team Anglo-Deutsch resting up for a minute of two.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182957.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John, doing his thang ....
Pretty much straight away we were in sand and rocks and that was the principle “recipe” for the day. We all had tumbles, I had 2, John had 1, fortunately, none of them serious. After my second, where Ralf helped me pick it back up again, I had to acknowledge to myself that the bike is still far too heavy…..John also having similar weight problems with his. When all said and done, our luggage totals approximately 100kg each, which is 50% extra over the weight of the standard bike…which is already a little on the heavy side for off-road riding anyway.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182330.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team "exploringrtw".
Our route was determined by Ralfs hand-held GPS and two maps John and I had. One, a German map from England, and another given to Phil by another English couple. Neither map was exclusively correct which made confidence in any given direction hard. This lead us to ask a 4 x 4 tour driver the route we needed…..well, that led us completely up the garden path and three bikes almost into a very hard looking rock wall. :nige We had to re-trace our steps and re-establish where we thought we were. This was done over lunch in a beautiful spot in the sun with some of the most outstanding scenery we’ve yet seen. Finally we did get some confidence in our route and found ourselves a Hostal about 100km short of our intended Largo Colorado…but we were all happy to have enjoyed such a beautiful day and challenging ride that another day of riding to get there didn’t bother any of us.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181932.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
It was lunch-time & Phil couldn't be bothered to get his mug off his bike.
The hostal was set on the outskirts of town and was very nicely set-up. It wasn’t luxurious but the walls were painted with some colour and the rooms had a bit of furniture so you felt a bit above Prison standards and we all relaxed a bit. Ralf did ok during the day and whilst not 100%, he said he’d had enough energy to do what had needed to be done. We all got to take showers again !!, and whilst not luxurious, it was hot enough. We went out looking for dinner but there were no restaurants in the town(which had no street lights at all but an amazing view of the stars !) that had any food in or were open. Finally we returned to our Hostal where we were allowed access to the owners own "warm" kitchen and russled up something for dinner.
The following morning we were up fairy early again, and after a Katrin breakfast and heating the bike engines we were off again, and the riding and scenery were again stunning.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181923.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Our Hostess.
The tracks we rode on were largely gravel with the occasional river crossing. In fact, just as we left the Hostal, we came to a river crossing where the water was frozen but we weren’t sure how thick the ice was or how deep the river was. All the normal rules for crossing the river were out of the window and my Dakar became the Ice Breaker. The ice gave way fairly quickly to the 400kg’s !
, however, the ice was thicker and the further I went in, and that combined with a few well placed rocks, made for an interesting and revvy crossing…which cost me a boot full of ice cold water. Phil followed with a straight forward crossing, however Ralf had spotted a thin track to the side and got his and Katrins bikes over. John followed over safely with a bit of upright assistance as he was unable to get his feet properly on the ground.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182328.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
BMW Dakar, fun to ride, also useful for breaking ice.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182964.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil follows the well ice-broken path.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185998.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin surveying the scenery........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One owner, never been off-road...honest.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182959.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One owner, never been on-road !!
At lunch time we found a beautiful spot in a town to have lunch. We were surrounded by Llamas along the banks of a river bed. The sun was out and we were warm…for a change. We even managed to find a shop selling Twix’s, Kitkats !!!! & Cokes.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182322.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The last river-crossing before lunch.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182312.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me enjoying the sun and warmth and kit-kat and coke and and and.......
After lunch the riding continued to go well and we were optimistic for an early finish, however Laguna Colorado seemed to be ever elusive. Finally we got to the edge of the National park and had to stop to pay an entrance fee. The attendant assured us we were only about 20 mins from the Hotel we knew that existed and we continued on. The track went on and on, Katrin had a spill in the gravel which bent her pannier frame and finally the light started to fade and its started to get cold.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182306.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John making one of the last river crossings for the day.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182998.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The edge of the National park. The attendants hut can just be seen in the background on the right.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182183004.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin, not long after her spill in the gravel.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184109.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
We were there !!
Eventually at dusk we come to an “almost” junction which we think may take us to the Hotel. Phil and I do a quick reconassance as Phil had seen a few 4 x 4’s go out that way and conclude that there is some sort of track. Ralf turns up and confirms, that according to a GPS way-point he had, that the Hotel was out there along this track.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182997.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The last part of the track before we turn off for the Hotel.
The light had faded during these few minutes and the track was now barely visible. After the first few hundred meters there was no longer a track and we were driving over rocks which made for a tough experience for us all as it felt like both tyres had punctures. John was very tired and had had enough and needed further convincing that there was a Hotel out there as nothing at all was visible. Ralf had already gone off with Katrin and so no further proof was available. After letting off a bit of steam heralding how grateful he was for no track, streetlights or signposts to the Hotel, and threatening to leave his bike where it was parked
, we set off again. Within 10 mins or so we were at the Hotel BUT only to discover that they were not sure if they had any rooms spare. It is impossible to convey how far in the wilderness we were. If this turned out to be full, the only option we would have would be to camp, and it was too cold, too dark and we were too tired to even entertain that as a choice. Finally we got confirmation that there was a room available for all 5 of us !! We soon got beyond any concerns over sharing as we were all in it together. We were back to concrete walls and floors again and one flourescent lamp which was due to go off at 10. The owners did prepare some food for us and Katrin we even managed to get a bottle of wine from one of the tour operators that were there. 
Dinner was had in the coldest area I think I’ve ever eaten in. It was in a corridor-like area linking all the bedrooms together. We were all wearing 4 or 5 layers, hats & gloves and were still cold.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182995.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Dinner time, yes it really was that cold.
We got through dinner and coffee, and after hugging the pot that dinner had come in to try and get warm, we decided it was bed time. Our room was also freezing and most of us slept with our hats on.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182977.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the beds in our Hotel....quality all the way ! .. they did have matresses on them too.
The following morning Phil lets us know that he is heading off to get some heat in Chile as he’s had enough of being cold.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182991.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Breakfast in the sun BUT still pretty cold.
I felt that if I left too I would be leaving a bit cheated of spending some time viewing the scenery we’d spent so long driving to get to, especially as the local lake contained possibly the world’s largest group of James Flamingo’s. The rest of the group felt similarly and decide to stay. We have breakfast and wave Phil off with plans for meeting the following day in Chile. Ralf, Katerin, John and I get some food together and head off towards the lake. We have an relaxed day, and after a 6 mile walk, enjoy basking in the sun watching the Flamingos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182299.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few of our many fans.........bought with sweets.... they wern't actually, although I did give them some later.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182986.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A frozen river close to our Hotel.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182987.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A close-up of the river showing one of the many ice formations we saw along it.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182984.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John's Leatherman proved useful for many things, including re-opening Corned-beef tins closed by brute force !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182981.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Ralf & Katrin remember everything to make a hot drink barring a water container, however John was once a boy scout.......and soon we have water underway....
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182979.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...which leads to happy shinny people!
In the evening John and I prepare dinner to give Katrin a night off, and whilst dinner wasn’t that exciting, it was hot. We have a few beers and coffee’s & teas, and soon retire to our cold room again. We get up early the following morning and it takes nearly 4 hours to get all the bikes running. We had the normal heating procedures to go through plus Ralf’s battery had been run completely flat which took a bit of time to get sorted out. Finally we’re off at about 10 and head off to see some hot Geysers(no jokes please !) near the customs office.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182972.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin provides the necessary link to assist in jumping Ralfs bike...and spends the rest of the day jibbering and shaking uncontrolably.
When we get there, Ralf and I spent a few minutes throwing a piece of old metal into the vertical jet air stream coming from the ground to see how high we can get it to fly whilst Katrin looks on disapprovingly. We look at the Geysers and Katrin manages to get one of her boots covered in mud-that’ll serve her for judging Ralf & I !!!!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182970.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the mud pools around the Geyser.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182966.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The tracks around this area are thick gravel and after getting our customs papers sorted out we are off again towards the border. The ride is far longer than any of us imagined and John is really feeling it in so far as he is really tired and had enough of the gravel and sand everywhere we ride. The scenery is stunning though, we’ve never seen anything like it.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184063.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Two of the many incredible views we saw from the track.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182183000.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185987.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Gravel & Sand is on the menu...again.........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182043.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and John's had enough..........
Ralf and Katrins pace is too fast for John and so we ride more sedately, finally meeting up with them again at a naturally heated spring. Ralf and Katrin have already enjoyed washing and basking in the pool(particularly as we hadn't been able to shower for the past 2 nights), and I am quick to join the whole experience. John unfortunaley was not at a place to enjoy it and gives himself a bit of time-off to rest a bit.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185990.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Basking in blissful warm water.....
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185993.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and an alternate view showing me to still only be in the peasant pool, as opposed to Katrin, who was residing in the Palacial pool-I was allowed in the palacial one later on, on the condition that I didn't stir up the sediment in the bottom...as if I would......
Lunch follows and we’re off again on more gravel and sand.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184102.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
More gravel and sand !
Finally Ralf and Katrin are no longer visible and we conclude they’ve gone for the border. Finally we get there too at about 5. Fortunately Katrin had left us the border fee and a note with the guards there, so we are able to cross ok. (We learned later that everybody expected us not to get to the border in time before it closed.) Finally we’re in Chile and the gravel ends. You can see John’s reaction to the beginning of tarmac again in the photo.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184095.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John spendng his last few seconds on gravel...........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184090.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
....and a few seconds later..........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184084.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and two and a quarter hours later!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184079.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The first Chilean sunset as we drive down towards San Pedro.
We continue to the official border and customs point to Chile, about 30 miles in, and ……meet Ralf & Katrin again. We all get our paperwork and passports stamped and head to San Pedro de Atacama to find Phil. After a few wrong turnings, I bump into him in a street and we sort out accomodation for us all. We all get a “warm” room & ”hot” shower with comfortable beds !! , although at a price. We’ve gone from $2 per night to about $50 in one day !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184075.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Chilean customs point.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184117.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John and I's lodgings in San Pedro.
Later we meet up for dinner which was nice, if not excellent. The following day we do a few domestic things such as washing and e-mailing. In the late afternoon we visit the local hot-spot, a Lunar landscape know for its sunsets and are back out for dinner again in the evening for Ralf & I to have our best steaks of the trip so far. Everything though is so expensive.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184114.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The streets of San Pedro...which don't do justice to the quality of restaurants and Hotels in town.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184111.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
In the late afternoon we visit the local hot-spot, a Lunar landscape know for its sunsets.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184124.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Lunar lanscape just outside San Pedro.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184123.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The lunar sunset.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184069.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Lunar people.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184121.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...anyone seen Blazing Saddles ?.......The restaurant of the best steak Ralf and I had eaten to date.
Finally, the following morning, Phil has to leave us for Buenos Aires as he needs to return to England to a job he has lined up, having already stayed 2 or 3 weeks longer than he planned. So he saddles up and John and I see him off, which was a bit strange after all the time I’d spent riding with him. Ralf and Katrin also have plans to go and camp near another Geyser site where they want to camp in the cold BUT on a hot spot that can be found in the ground where the steam channels run, and so they leave us too with arrangements to meet up again in Salta, Argentina.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184118.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil finally leaves us for Buenos Aires.
John and I have another day at San Pedro and use it to wash the salt off the bikes and relax a bit. The following morning we leave for Salta in Argentina, under the impression that it is 300km away. That impression having formed by a new road sign just outside of San Pedro which says Salta, 300km !!
The road between Chile & Argentina is fairly high and we are soon in a much colder climate again. The cold is shortly followed by winds that appear from nowhere and everywhere with some of the most bizarre cross-winds we’ve yet to drive in. These winds force our speed down a bit for a while, however once we drop altitude again they drop too. We cross into Argentina pretty well without incident apart from a small shop trying to rip me off by not giving me enough change, and a nonsense scenario involving a coach-driver in the customs room who wanted all his passengers to get stamped through before the officials would be allowed to attend to us. Pah !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184106.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A lake with a fair amount of ice on it just before we pass from Chile into Argentina.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184105.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Argentine border.
Apparently motorcycle insurance is compulsory in Argentina but you can’t buy it at the border……but we are assured it will be ok to continue, we just need to buy in in Salta !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185982.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A frozen lake not far over the Argentine border.
We continue on and have now covered the 300km from San Pedro and are still many kilometres from Salta. There have been no petrol stations of restaurants since we left Chile and finally we see the two together so we stop for lunch and take the bikes over to the pumps. Unfortunatley, a number of petrol tankers were actually getting there own fuel tanks filled and the garage owner wasn’t going interrupt their requirements to fuel a couple of bikes and a car. We waited and waited and finally decided to get some gas at the next town which looked big enough on the map to have it. We go through town after town and nowhere is a gas station to be seen. Finally we’re onto a reserve fuel and I start to worry a bit as the terrain is just mountainous with no sign of a town. After a further 20 or so miles we come to a big town but are directed away from the town for a gas station. Finally after we’ve covered 275 miles on one tank of gas (which is a very long way for 16litres) , taken a 20 or so km diversion, do we find a gas station. We fill up, sigh a sigh of relief, get some food and coffee, and sigh another sigh of relief.
We finally get to Salta at mid-night, find a Hotel and settle down for the night, some 600 or so Kilometres after we left San Pedro !!!.
We wake the following morning to discover that we’d crossed another time-zone and that Mr Zulu had forgot to alter the clock again.
Mike
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182334.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John, just before we arrived at San Juan.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182244.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
San Juan...and what a relief it was to see.
Katrin and I set to the task of mixing the Tuna & tomato puree with a few other ingredients, such as sweet corn. Despite how it sounds, it was a great meal helped down with some wine which Phil managed to find. We also all got a hot shower each.
Unfortunatley Ralf was really ill during the night and was wiped out again the following day so we decided to stay in San Juan with Katrin and Phil for a further day. After a leisurely breakfast, Phil, John and myself had to move rooms due a tour having pre booked all the other rooms. Phil was given the owners daughters room which was the closest to nice we’d seen, whilst John and I were given a Bolivian prison cell !….well, that’s what it resembled. The room was about 8’ x 8’, had two worn out beds in it, all the walls and floors were just plain grey concrete, and remember there was no lighting or heating.
In the afternoon we walked up to the local ruins and cemetery where the open-style graves are created from coral.
During the later part of the day a group of French turned up on a 4x 4 tour turned up. They were all curious about our trip, but more importantly one was a Doctor who kindly offered to look at Ralf. He did so and basically gave Ralf some confidence that he had nothing seriously wrong with him in terms of not being able to ride etc. <IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182276.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The door of the entrance hut to the local Cemetry, the door is made of cactus wood.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182209.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of their street lamps, made from a wire bridged across two high-volttage pylon cables and a bulb in the bottom of a large Coke bottle. ..Children, don't try this at home !...even if your parents do !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182066.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Take one Dakar, add salt from the Salar Uyuni...and
.........clean quickly !! During the evening Katrin and I worked on another carne(Spanish for meat) creation. This time using different flavoured soups as the basis for the sauce to go with our corned-beef. This was ok but didn’t work as well as the Tuna........... so the 5 bottles of wine that Phil had bought soon took away any unwanted memories of dinner soon after we’d eaten it .
Ralf also was able to join us and had some soup. <IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182161.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Sure you can buy Pasta, as long as you take it in our handy-sized 4kg packets !!
When we’d arrived we were given the option to order some bread from the local bakery, so we ordered 100 or so rolls
to make sure we had enough food as we continued our journey South. When they turned up, there looked to be far more than that…we had bags and bags of them. These rolls are about the size of a large Danish pastry. We all had a good laugh.(...and ending up eating nearly all of them in the end would you believe.)The following morning we were all up very early for our anticipated 240km ride to Lago Colorado. At six the alarms went off and the dark cold concrete room with no light or heat did little to encourage us out of bed
, but were still able to complain between ourselves about how the staff had forgotten to bring us our breakfast and how little you got for your money these days. However we knew the plan made sense so up we got. A quick splash of ice cold water on the face followed by an equally unpleasant tooth-clean had us ready to pack the bikes and for breakfast. Katrin was already busy in the kitchen and soon we had coffee and boiled eggs in front of us. <IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182332.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Breakfast at San Juan on the second morning....Ralf is with us again.
As soon as the cooker was done with for breakfast, it was under Ralfs bike to get it heated up for starting. There was a lot to organise in terms of apportioning out the food and water to carry on the bikes and Katrin did a very good job of organising it/us all.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182976.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Heat at full pressure for about 25 mins, and if there is enough power in your battery, your average BMW might just start.
The French, who were part of an organised trip in 4x 4 ’s, that had stayed the day before were very curious as we heated the engines and gradually got the bikes running one-by-one. Phils bike being the only exception which pretty much started first time…as usual. For those of you new to this site, he rides a KLR650 costing about 3,500 pounds, ............ grrrrrrr...... BMW..... ggrrrrrrrrr….World class motorcycles………grrrrrrrr…..
Finally we were packed, the bikes were running, and we were off by just after 9, we’d wanted to leave at 8.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181992.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team Anglo-Deutsch resting up for a minute of two.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182957.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John, doing his thang ....
Pretty much straight away we were in sand and rocks and that was the principle “recipe” for the day. We all had tumbles, I had 2, John had 1, fortunately, none of them serious. After my second, where Ralf helped me pick it back up again, I had to acknowledge to myself that the bike is still far too heavy…..John also having similar weight problems with his. When all said and done, our luggage totals approximately 100kg each, which is 50% extra over the weight of the standard bike…which is already a little on the heavy side for off-road riding anyway.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182330.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team "exploringrtw".
Our route was determined by Ralfs hand-held GPS and two maps John and I had. One, a German map from England, and another given to Phil by another English couple. Neither map was exclusively correct which made confidence in any given direction hard. This lead us to ask a 4 x 4 tour driver the route we needed…..well, that led us completely up the garden path and three bikes almost into a very hard looking rock wall. :nige We had to re-trace our steps and re-establish where we thought we were. This was done over lunch in a beautiful spot in the sun with some of the most outstanding scenery we’ve yet seen. Finally we did get some confidence in our route and found ourselves a Hostal about 100km short of our intended Largo Colorado…but we were all happy to have enjoyed such a beautiful day and challenging ride that another day of riding to get there didn’t bother any of us.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181932.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
It was lunch-time & Phil couldn't be bothered to get his mug off his bike.
The hostal was set on the outskirts of town and was very nicely set-up. It wasn’t luxurious but the walls were painted with some colour and the rooms had a bit of furniture so you felt a bit above Prison standards and we all relaxed a bit. Ralf did ok during the day and whilst not 100%, he said he’d had enough energy to do what had needed to be done. We all got to take showers again !!, and whilst not luxurious, it was hot enough. We went out looking for dinner but there were no restaurants in the town(which had no street lights at all but an amazing view of the stars !) that had any food in or were open. Finally we returned to our Hostal where we were allowed access to the owners own "warm" kitchen and russled up something for dinner.
The following morning we were up fairy early again, and after a Katrin breakfast and heating the bike engines we were off again, and the riding and scenery were again stunning.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182181923.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Our Hostess.
The tracks we rode on were largely gravel with the occasional river crossing. In fact, just as we left the Hostal, we came to a river crossing where the water was frozen but we weren’t sure how thick the ice was or how deep the river was. All the normal rules for crossing the river were out of the window and my Dakar became the Ice Breaker. The ice gave way fairly quickly to the 400kg’s !
, however, the ice was thicker and the further I went in, and that combined with a few well placed rocks, made for an interesting and revvy crossing…which cost me a boot full of ice cold water. Phil followed with a straight forward crossing, however Ralf had spotted a thin track to the side and got his and Katrins bikes over. John followed over safely with a bit of upright assistance as he was unable to get his feet properly on the ground. <IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182328.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
BMW Dakar, fun to ride, also useful for breaking ice.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182964.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil follows the well ice-broken path.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185998.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin surveying the scenery........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One owner, never been off-road...honest.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182959.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One owner, never been on-road !!
At lunch time we found a beautiful spot in a town to have lunch. We were surrounded by Llamas along the banks of a river bed. The sun was out and we were warm…for a change. We even managed to find a shop selling Twix’s, Kitkats !!!! & Cokes.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182322.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The last river-crossing before lunch.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182312.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me enjoying the sun and warmth and kit-kat and coke and and and.......
After lunch the riding continued to go well and we were optimistic for an early finish, however Laguna Colorado seemed to be ever elusive. Finally we got to the edge of the National park and had to stop to pay an entrance fee. The attendant assured us we were only about 20 mins from the Hotel we knew that existed and we continued on. The track went on and on, Katrin had a spill in the gravel which bent her pannier frame and finally the light started to fade and its started to get cold.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182306.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John making one of the last river crossings for the day.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182998.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The edge of the National park. The attendants hut can just be seen in the background on the right.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182183004.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin, not long after her spill in the gravel.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184109.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
We were there !!
Eventually at dusk we come to an “almost” junction which we think may take us to the Hotel. Phil and I do a quick reconassance as Phil had seen a few 4 x 4’s go out that way and conclude that there is some sort of track. Ralf turns up and confirms, that according to a GPS way-point he had, that the Hotel was out there along this track.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182997.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The last part of the track before we turn off for the Hotel.
The light had faded during these few minutes and the track was now barely visible. After the first few hundred meters there was no longer a track and we were driving over rocks which made for a tough experience for us all as it felt like both tyres had punctures. John was very tired and had had enough and needed further convincing that there was a Hotel out there as nothing at all was visible. Ralf had already gone off with Katrin and so no further proof was available. After letting off a bit of steam heralding how grateful he was for no track, streetlights or signposts to the Hotel, and threatening to leave his bike where it was parked
, we set off again. Within 10 mins or so we were at the Hotel BUT only to discover that they were not sure if they had any rooms spare. It is impossible to convey how far in the wilderness we were. If this turned out to be full, the only option we would have would be to camp, and it was too cold, too dark and we were too tired to even entertain that as a choice. Finally we got confirmation that there was a room available for all 5 of us !! We soon got beyond any concerns over sharing as we were all in it together. We were back to concrete walls and floors again and one flourescent lamp which was due to go off at 10. The owners did prepare some food for us and Katrin we even managed to get a bottle of wine from one of the tour operators that were there. Dinner was had in the coldest area I think I’ve ever eaten in. It was in a corridor-like area linking all the bedrooms together. We were all wearing 4 or 5 layers, hats & gloves and were still cold. <IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182995.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Dinner time, yes it really was that cold.
We got through dinner and coffee, and after hugging the pot that dinner had come in to try and get warm, we decided it was bed time. Our room was also freezing and most of us slept with our hats on.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182977.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the beds in our Hotel....quality all the way ! .. they did have matresses on them too.
The following morning Phil lets us know that he is heading off to get some heat in Chile as he’s had enough of being cold.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182991.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Breakfast in the sun BUT still pretty cold.
I felt that if I left too I would be leaving a bit cheated of spending some time viewing the scenery we’d spent so long driving to get to, especially as the local lake contained possibly the world’s largest group of James Flamingo’s. The rest of the group felt similarly and decide to stay. We have breakfast and wave Phil off with plans for meeting the following day in Chile. Ralf, Katerin, John and I get some food together and head off towards the lake. We have an relaxed day, and after a 6 mile walk, enjoy basking in the sun watching the Flamingos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182299.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few of our many fans.........bought with sweets.... they wern't actually, although I did give them some later.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182986.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A frozen river close to our Hotel.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182987.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A close-up of the river showing one of the many ice formations we saw along it.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182984.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John's Leatherman proved useful for many things, including re-opening Corned-beef tins closed by brute force !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182981.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Ralf & Katrin remember everything to make a hot drink barring a water container, however John was once a boy scout.......and soon we have water underway....
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182979.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...which leads to happy shinny people!
In the evening John and I prepare dinner to give Katrin a night off, and whilst dinner wasn’t that exciting, it was hot. We have a few beers and coffee’s & teas, and soon retire to our cold room again. We get up early the following morning and it takes nearly 4 hours to get all the bikes running. We had the normal heating procedures to go through plus Ralf’s battery had been run completely flat which took a bit of time to get sorted out. Finally we’re off at about 10 and head off to see some hot Geysers(no jokes please !) near the customs office.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182972.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Katrin provides the necessary link to assist in jumping Ralfs bike...and spends the rest of the day jibbering and shaking uncontrolably.
When we get there, Ralf and I spent a few minutes throwing a piece of old metal into the vertical jet air stream coming from the ground to see how high we can get it to fly whilst Katrin looks on disapprovingly. We look at the Geysers and Katrin manages to get one of her boots covered in mud-that’ll serve her for judging Ralf & I !!!!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182970.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the mud pools around the Geyser.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182966.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The tracks around this area are thick gravel and after getting our customs papers sorted out we are off again towards the border. The ride is far longer than any of us imagined and John is really feeling it in so far as he is really tired and had enough of the gravel and sand everywhere we ride. The scenery is stunning though, we’ve never seen anything like it.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184063.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Two of the many incredible views we saw from the track.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182183000.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185987.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Gravel & Sand is on the menu...again.........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182182043.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and John's had enough..........
Ralf and Katrins pace is too fast for John and so we ride more sedately, finally meeting up with them again at a naturally heated spring. Ralf and Katrin have already enjoyed washing and basking in the pool(particularly as we hadn't been able to shower for the past 2 nights), and I am quick to join the whole experience. John unfortunaley was not at a place to enjoy it and gives himself a bit of time-off to rest a bit.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185990.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Basking in blissful warm water.....
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185993.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and an alternate view showing me to still only be in the peasant pool, as opposed to Katrin, who was residing in the Palacial pool-I was allowed in the palacial one later on, on the condition that I didn't stir up the sediment in the bottom...as if I would......
Lunch follows and we’re off again on more gravel and sand.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184102.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
More gravel and sand !
Finally Ralf and Katrin are no longer visible and we conclude they’ve gone for the border. Finally we get there too at about 5. Fortunately Katrin had left us the border fee and a note with the guards there, so we are able to cross ok. (We learned later that everybody expected us not to get to the border in time before it closed.) Finally we’re in Chile and the gravel ends. You can see John’s reaction to the beginning of tarmac again in the photo.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184095.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John spendng his last few seconds on gravel...........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184090.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
....and a few seconds later..........
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184084.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...and two and a quarter hours later!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184079.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The first Chilean sunset as we drive down towards San Pedro.
We continue to the official border and customs point to Chile, about 30 miles in, and ……meet Ralf & Katrin again. We all get our paperwork and passports stamped and head to San Pedro de Atacama to find Phil. After a few wrong turnings, I bump into him in a street and we sort out accomodation for us all. We all get a “warm” room & ”hot” shower with comfortable beds !! , although at a price. We’ve gone from $2 per night to about $50 in one day !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184075.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Chilean customs point.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184117.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
John and I's lodgings in San Pedro.
Later we meet up for dinner which was nice, if not excellent. The following day we do a few domestic things such as washing and e-mailing. In the late afternoon we visit the local hot-spot, a Lunar landscape know for its sunsets and are back out for dinner again in the evening for Ralf & I to have our best steaks of the trip so far. Everything though is so expensive.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184114.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The streets of San Pedro...which don't do justice to the quality of restaurants and Hotels in town.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184111.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
In the late afternoon we visit the local hot-spot, a Lunar landscape know for its sunsets.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184124.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Lunar lanscape just outside San Pedro.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184123.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The lunar sunset.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184069.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Lunar people.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184121.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...anyone seen Blazing Saddles ?.......The restaurant of the best steak Ralf and I had eaten to date.
Finally, the following morning, Phil has to leave us for Buenos Aires as he needs to return to England to a job he has lined up, having already stayed 2 or 3 weeks longer than he planned. So he saddles up and John and I see him off, which was a bit strange after all the time I’d spent riding with him. Ralf and Katrin also have plans to go and camp near another Geyser site where they want to camp in the cold BUT on a hot spot that can be found in the ground where the steam channels run, and so they leave us too with arrangements to meet up again in Salta, Argentina.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184118.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil finally leaves us for Buenos Aires.
John and I have another day at San Pedro and use it to wash the salt off the bikes and relax a bit. The following morning we leave for Salta in Argentina, under the impression that it is 300km away. That impression having formed by a new road sign just outside of San Pedro which says Salta, 300km !!
The road between Chile & Argentina is fairly high and we are soon in a much colder climate again. The cold is shortly followed by winds that appear from nowhere and everywhere with some of the most bizarre cross-winds we’ve yet to drive in. These winds force our speed down a bit for a while, however once we drop altitude again they drop too. We cross into Argentina pretty well without incident apart from a small shop trying to rip me off by not giving me enough change, and a nonsense scenario involving a coach-driver in the customs room who wanted all his passengers to get stamped through before the officials would be allowed to attend to us. Pah !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184106.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A lake with a fair amount of ice on it just before we pass from Chile into Argentina.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182184105.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Argentine border.
Apparently motorcycle insurance is compulsory in Argentina but you can’t buy it at the border……but we are assured it will be ok to continue, we just need to buy in in Salta !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/12177830/182185982.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A frozen lake not far over the Argentine border.
We continue on and have now covered the 300km from San Pedro and are still many kilometres from Salta. There have been no petrol stations of restaurants since we left Chile and finally we see the two together so we stop for lunch and take the bikes over to the pumps. Unfortunatley, a number of petrol tankers were actually getting there own fuel tanks filled and the garage owner wasn’t going interrupt their requirements to fuel a couple of bikes and a car. We waited and waited and finally decided to get some gas at the next town which looked big enough on the map to have it. We go through town after town and nowhere is a gas station to be seen. Finally we’re onto a reserve fuel and I start to worry a bit as the terrain is just mountainous with no sign of a town. After a further 20 or so miles we come to a big town but are directed away from the town for a gas station. Finally after we’ve covered 275 miles on one tank of gas (which is a very long way for 16litres) , taken a 20 or so km diversion, do we find a gas station. We fill up, sigh a sigh of relief, get some food and coffee, and sigh another sigh of relief.
We finally get to Salta at mid-night, find a Hotel and settle down for the night, some 600 or so Kilometres after we left San Pedro !!!.
We wake the following morning to discover that we’d crossed another time-zone and that Mr Zulu had forgot to alter the clock again.
Mike
will have to get the page up at home for the piccies...that'll take most of the night...and worth the wait I'm sure 
+ pisco sours
