Wheel Nuts

What`s so interesting ?? :nenau

What`s the fuss ?? :nenau


Torque them dry.

Check them regularly.
 
Scary that such an innocent action could have tragic results. Almost done that myself in the past on the car, but never did.

That is what worries me about using coppergrease on the S/S kit for the bike. Using coppergrease means that using the recommended torque values results in overtorquing. But if no antisieze is used then there is some metalurgical reaction, could use Loctite suppose.

I ended up not applying the correct torque to my front caliperswhen using the S/S bolts, approaching the correct torque, it just didn't feel right. Should add that I sometimes have to test the strength of welded studs at work with a torque wrench, so I'm familiar with the Oh shit, it's going to shear" feeling.

OK wait for it, here comes a big debate.

Tarka, it's interesting to those who aren't as mechanically au fait as yourself.Others might be tempted to apply anti-sieze if they've experienced hard to remove wheel nuts / bolts.
 
Code: 
Why so angry Tarquin??

Perhaps he's looked in a mirror today :jes
 
Fanum said:
Why so angry Tarquin?? :confused:
Click to expand...


Because there`s so many feckers who think a bike will look after itself without anything needing checking,or think they can 'improve' from well proven recommendations.

Torque settings are always given for dry threads unless otherwise specified.

If someone else has removed and refitted a wheel,for instance,you`d be crassly stupid to ride away without checking the wheel security and alignment before riding away.

Likewise what is there to be surprised about if,for instance,a set of wheel nuts that haven`t been checked and proven to be correctly installed end up working loose ??
 
Not in his case it seems but if I pay a professional* to do it and I don't have the tourque wrench in my toolkit or garage - how does the average "crassly stupid" person check beyond a visual or hand tight inspection :nenau







* I would just like to add for the record that the professional I use would not and has not ever failed to use the correct tools and the correct torque settings when doing my wheels up :D
 
tarka said:
Because there`s so many feckers who think a bike will look after itself without anything needing checking,or think they can 'improve' from well proven recommendations.

Torque settings are always given for dry threads unless otherwise specified.

If someone else has removed and refitted a wheel,for instance,you`d be crassly stupid to ride away without checking the wheel security and alignment before riding away.

Likewise what is there to be surprised about if,for instance,a set of wheel nuts that haven`t been checked and proven to be correctly installed end up working loose ??
Click to expand...


Tarka........you don't half come across as a complete tw@
 
This is a valid concern, how many riders here check the torque of fixings in critical areas such as wheel nuts, fork clamps and calipers? Not many I would suggest. More to the point how many own a calibrated torque wrench and get it checked yearly and keep it backed off when not in use? Even less I would guess.

It is worth understanding how to use a torque wrench and the difference between wet and dry torques if you are going to perform your own maintenance, however re torqing is usually a waste of time and can lead to bolt stretch, you are better off getting them checked once and then paint spotting them or lock wiring, it so much easier and quicker to look for a reference mark on a fixing.
 
judge said:
Not in his case it seems but if I pay a professional* to do it and I don't have the tourque wrench in my toolkit or garage - how does the average "crassly stupid" person check beyond a visual or hand tight inspection :nenau




* I would just like to add for the record that the professional I use would not and has not ever failed to use the correct tools and the correct torque settings when doing my wheels up :D
Click to expand...


:D Love the disclaimer :thumb


The guy by his own admission hadn`t checked the wheelnut security for some months.......so what`s the surprise and fuss about ?? :nenau
 
Not being a fan of mating two dissimilar metals with no lubricant between them, but mindful of the problems with security when using Molybdenum Disulphide and the likes - I'm inclined to use a low yield anerobic thread sealant (Nutloc :thumb ).

It provides a degree of lubrication on assembly and cures to possibly provide a barrier to galvanic action between the two metals. (might just prevent loosening too :confused: )

I recently discovered that my rear wheel had been fitted by the dealer using Aluminium-based paste - the wheel bolts were not what I would call tight :eek:

Al :D
 
i do my bike wheel nuts up with a torque wrench, i never check them thereafter unless the wheel needs removing. i used to use copperslip on the threads as i too am not inclined to assemble 2 different metals dry, but i was advised of the error of my ways & now i don't.

never had a wheel come loose.

car wheels, i've copper slipped for the past 30 years & done up by feel. they were all present & correct last time i looked.
 
Why do you lot 'presume' to think that the average dealership spanner monkey knows any more about how to tighten a wheel bolt than you do ?

Do you think they go to some sort of engineering training school that teaches them the exact sciences behind the practicalities ?

i very much doubt it - they either do what the foreman tells them or what the bod in the dealer training room tells them.

one of them is right through experience - one is right through theory.

Which would you trust ?

serious question.
 
Put it down to sods law cock up or whatever you like, :nenau We ALL make mistakes even the best... it's a brave move though to post the error of your ways for all the world to see cause sure as eggs are eggs some ones going to come along with all the benefit of their infinite wisdom and superior knowledge and tell you what a complete moron you are... we all know the types big foreheads sparks popping out their heads , :bow cor what it must be like to be perfect eh.
 
It happens.
I once let a customers bike go out with the wheel nuts only done up hand tight - I was being spoken to by three of them at the same time as trying to work on the bike. No excuse i know. I had to goout and rescue him 3 miles down the road :eek:

I now hardly speak to people who hang about while i work on their bikes (couple of exceptions :D ) . And you can be guaranteed that no bike will ever leave here again without the wheel nuts being very tight.
 
Steptoe said:
It happens.
I once let a customers bike go out with the wheel nuts only done up hand tight - I was being spoken to by three of them at the same time as trying to work on the bike. No excuse i know. I had to goout and rescue him 3 miles down the road :eek:

I now hardly speak to people who hang about while i work on their bikes (couple of exceptions :D ) . And you can be guaranteed that no bike will ever leave here again without the wheel nuts being very tight.
Click to expand...

When you get new tyres fitted at Costco, after the fitter has torqued up the bolts - a colleague is called, who double-checks each wheel. They then sign off the checklist.

It is so easy to forget one, or all bolts on a wheel :(


Al :D
 
CONFESSIONS

. . reminds me of the time I decoked the Norton, torqued down the cylinder head (a bugger of a job as one bolt is barely accessible) & then found the rocker cover wouldn't clear the frame, so the head has to be removed, only to find I've left a rag down the cylinder barrel!
 
Once there tightened to the corrrect torque (dry) do as I do at work and put a dab of paint on them across the nut and the wheel.(Not done using a 4 inch brush)
Doesnt have to be a lot as long as you can see it and that way even if you dont have a torque wrench of your own its easy to spot a bolt that intends to go for a wander down the road without you
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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