Ireland to Morocco and back April 2008

Sunday 13th (250miles)
The bike all ready for the off:



After a sad farewell to Lynda I set off at 0915, meeting Stuart on his new Ducati Multistrada 1100s along the way. The sun graced us with its presence and in no time we were skirting Belfast on the Westlink when Stuart peeled off. Now on my own I popped a playlist by Lynda on the iPod, pointed the GS south and with one very necessary pee stop somewhere on the M1, I made it to Rosslare by 1345. Ate one decidedly average chicken satay but at least it arrived quickly which, with hindsight, is probably why it was average...
Checked in and spent a solitary half hour in lane 9 before being joined by Earl on his 1150R and Colly and Davy on their GSA and RTs.








Monday 14th (560 Miles)

What a day! Rolled off the ferry in Cherbourgh at 12 noon and hightailed it south.



Wasn’t too hungry by lunch so made do with pain au chocolat and an espresso.



My staple snack

Got into a rhythm of 30 sec pee break and change of ipod tunes every 100 miles with a 15 min stop every 200. After 400 milese I was just south of Bordeaux but was still up for it so at a steady 95mph I soon clocked up another 160 by 2130, getting a few speed cameras excited along the way.
Found a cheap and cheerful (50 euro) hotel (Hotel La Cournella) by the harbour in St Jean de Luz. Wrecked and ready for a night’s sleep...

Tuesday 15th

730 miles later I'm now sitting outside Algeciras:

Woke at 7am and left St Jean de Luz.







Heated grips on high setting and a freezing mist covered the Pyrennees.



I rode like this for a couple of hours stopping every 100 miles or thereabouts. By Madrid it had started to hot up. Coming into the first tunnel in Madrid I rolled off the throttle to get down to a respectable speed and the twin Akra cans sounded like someone had let rip with an M60! In the tunnels I realised the Zumo had gone mad when I noticed my speed reading was 166mph. Consequently I missed my exit and had to fight through the traffic again to find my road. After a fast stretch south of Madrid a Polizia Civilia Traffico jeep roared up behind me, sat for a while before passing and racing off into the hills. Just north of Granada I overtook two German registered cars covered in anti-spyshot black covers – looked like some sort of C-class Merc with 2 twin exhaust ports.
Once in Granada I located a spot to get the TKC80s on (Aviles Racing).





Weird tyres to ride on for the first time! An extra click of preload and 160 miles later I was happier with them and sitting in Casa Bernardo Macias, a fantastic place with a bar, restaurant and big rooms for 60 euro.



I got new shoes!

Wednesday 16th (256 miles)

Early start. Couldn’t face breakfast in the smoky bar – amazing how accustomed you get to smoke free restaurants. Found the nearest Repsol petrol stop, filled up and purchased an ACCIONA ferry ticket at 65 euro for the 10am crossing.



Now sitting on the dock waiting...
On the boat and I’ve a horrible feeling I might be in for a bout of seasickness.



Quite cloudy and cold out so far. Debating paying at the border just to get through it asap but would I later regret not doing it myself?
In the end the boat crossing was very bumpy but thankfully vomit free. Made the border, riding past all the touts with black visor down. Was approached by the guy in the Tommy Cooper hat who says “Luvilly jubilly” and was through the border in no time.
Taking the N13 I was amazed by the evident poverty of the masses and the stark contrast of the very wealthy in their S-Class Mercedes and new 4x4s.
Strange seeing people herding goats and cows down a main road and through towns.





I was passing a bus on a stretch of dual carriageway when I met a dog strolling my way in the fast lane – a near miss for both of us!
The further south I got the more fantastically coloured the clothing of the locals. Stopped to photograph a brightly painted lorry and in minutes a guy appeared seemingly out of nowhere and offered me hashish.









I peeled off into Chefchouen and stopped by a cafe and was quickly latched onto by a guy who soon procured me mint tea, orange and bread. Just what I needed but then he asked for 30 dirhams for talking to me about the region!





Up until now it had been cloudy but on the descent out of Chefchouen the heat picked up.



Called in for fuel but they were out of unleaded. Branching off the N13 I took the piste through Mokrisset and Zoumi – much of it was tarmac but a lot was loose gravel and mud.









In Mokrisset I pulled over to eat an apple and grab a quick drink of water when I noticed two kids eyeing me up, obviously looking for the courage to approach me. Their older brother as it turns out, cycled over and in my broken French we had something resembling a conversation. His brothers arrived on the scene eventually. I really regret declining their invitation to eat in their house but I wanted to make Azrou and had no idea how much longer that would take.









Later when I stopped and killed the engine I couldn’t believe the silence in the valley. A rooster crowed somewhere far away, the sound carrying to me easily. Beautiful...
On leaving Zoumi I found a fantastic set of twisties and my confidence in the TKCs soon soared and the chicken strips well on their way to disappearing. Surprising tyres!







In one village I stopped for water and some of those Nice biscuits you find everywhere. I was soon the focal point and all the men outside the welding shop stood and stared. When I left I spun the rear in the gravel quite unintentionally and slid a bit before finding traction. The probably thought I was showing off little knowing I’d just filled my pants, happy that I hadn’t dumped the bike into their shop!







Eventually I reached Fez – the driving was shocking – a real free for all.





It was cooling down by the time I hit Ifrane where the King has a residence – what a strange town, all too perfect, with guards lining the roads in amazing ceremonial uniforms – all too much in contrast to the poverty outside.
Made it to Azrou and after checking out a few places I plumped for Hotel Panorama, not the best spot but hey!

Don't stop now ya Tosser. Keep it coming David.

He's worse than Steptoe for getting his mug in Picture

Thursday 17th (171 miles)

Have just woken up to scorching sun and blue skies – lovely breakfast with apricot jam, freshly squeezed orange juice, the ubiquitous mint tea, rolled bread, pain au chocolat......



The hotel manager tries to charge me double for my meal. I point this out, he apologises and then shortchanges me by 100 dirhams. I point this out as well... As I leave the hotel and hit the main road of Azrou the streets are thronged with people and the road devoid of vehicles. I waved regally as I thundered past. It wasn’t until the Afriquia station that I learned the King was due to pass imminently...
Whao. What can I say, just finished my first proper piste. Headed from Azrou through the Foret de Cedres, onto Ain-Lue and down to Sources de L’Oumuer-Rbia.

















It was hard to know what to do when I met the first kids who begged...















Met two Germans on DRZ400s who recommended an offroad piste to El Borg and gave me the GPS co-ordinates for the starting point. It was incredible – stunning views, some very tricky (for me) downhill sections of large rocks.































Now in a cafe near Khenifra awaiting my first chicken tagine.





There’s something beautifully simple about the berber way of life in the hills. I stopped for a flock of sheep crossing a road and saw a young couple, obviously the shepherds, waving at me before herding their flock between two rocks and on up the slope. What a lovely fulfilled way to live...









Sitting on a rock smelling the espresso boiling up. Such a beautiful part of the world.

















Today has been much more relaxed which is great. Again I regret that when the boys asked if I wanted to eat with them I declined because of my schedule. As Moroccans say “He who rushes has one foot in the grave”.

Have now arrived at the Auberge Jaffa outside Midelt. Kasbah Asmaa was full and I didn’t feel like taking up the manager’s offer of sleeping in the restaurant once people had finished eating!


this little dude carried my luggage up to my room - when I turned round he had my lid on - he managed to pull the autocom out of it though...

But talk about a room with a view!









fabulous sunset over the auberge:



my room!

Washed my kit and it’s now drying in the breeze.
After some incredible routes today running from Khenifra due east passing J.Irhoud and finishing up on Col de Zad and the N13. At one point I stopped and was approached by this goatherd who left his flock to come over.



I didn’t need any grasp of Arabic to know he wanted to exchange his cloack for my Rallye jacket. It got quite awkward and I thought I defused it by shaking his hand and clasping it with my left at the same time. I still don’t know why I did this! I later read in the Lonely Planet guide that to clasp someone’s hand with your left is seen as a great insult because of what the left hand is usually reserved for in the bathroom! Ooops.







Now waiting in the dining room:





After another great turkey tagine the entertainment arrived.

TUNED IN said:

He's worse than Steptoe for getting his mug in Picture

Click to expand...

I'll try and get a bit more on tonight...

Friday 18th (100 miles)


view of the auberge...

Set off on the Cirque de Jaffar – utterly amazing.













Some hairy bits and one scary drop off (for me!).




on top of the drop off


Stopped for a break and two young shepherds approached. I swiftly learned their French was limited to “Ca Va?” He writes in the sand that it’s 90km to Imilchil.





Really impressed with how capable the big GS is. If the going gets squirrelly gassing it usually brings it into line again. On the drop off I had no choice but to go for it because the other way involved a downhill, sharp and almost 90 degree left to avoid a large boulder.
One the ascent out of the gully I stuck my left boot out for balance which hit a rock and then my pannier hit my foot. Luckily it was the rock that gave way rather than my ankle – what could have been!
I’m now sitting in a little sun trap somewhere in the foothills of Jebel Ayachi catching up with this journal surrounded by trees, rocks, dust and snow capped mountains. It definitely fills you with a sense of wonder...
The wind has picked up but at 2250m I’m surprised at the heat.





Just had a low speed off. Coming into a left hander I was distracted by the scenery, tried to select first gear from second and managed to get neutral...
Managed to right the bike without the hassle of removing luggage. My Fitness First membership paying off ;o) Only damage is a broken indicator.





I soon meet a guy and his dog which doesn’t warm to me and escorts me rapidly through the next set of bends. Half a kilometer later and a young guy jumps out into my path shouting and making a smoking sign with his fingers. His mate, waiting 20 metres further up the piste, tried to block my path also shouting. I rode straight at him and he eventually jumped out of the way. I don’t know what their intentions were but they certainly didn’t come across too friendly!
My feet were aching from standing on the pegs for three hours but I didn’t feel like stopping in this area. When I did stop on a hill overlooking a settlement not marked on the map I noticed that somewhere in the midst of all the excitement my camelbak had fallen out of its bag.







The people I was meeting in this area did not seem very friendly and I didn’t feel like stopping with them as I had become accustomed to doing. This, coupled with my little spill, served to sour my mood.













Have spotted a few French 4x4s camping by the river. Have tackled a few stream crossings but the last one was too deep and I hit a stone which through me off course and straight into a log. Once again I righted it and ate a banana!





What a day. One water crossing after another. I fell another time after a deep crossing with a muddy bank at the far side. Some of the water crossings involved riding downstream to connect again with the piste.
Met a couple of French familes in their 4x4s. Once the water obstacles were over I relaxed more but it was still a long day.





















I’m whacked now. Eight hours standing on the pegs in first and second gear... Am sitting in a hotel by Lac Tislit having had a mint tea and a warm shower. Right up until I hit the R317 I was greeted with the smoking “you want hashish?” sign and it got a bit depressing, especially when kids were involved. Before the piste ended I passed through a fantastic settlement with at least a hundred kids, most shouting “bon bon, bon bon”. They were picture perfect with their bright traditional dress and shiny white smiles. I would have stopped for more photos and to take in the atmosphere but for fear of being overrun.











Such a challenging day. Mentally it was tough doing it solo and falling, always having the thought in the back of my mind that if I break something, it’s a bit remote to expect assistance, either medical or mechanical.
Looking back on it it was a cracker day which pushed my riding limits in the right direction and I gained a lot of confidence.


delighted to get back on the tarmac!



Right now I just can’t wait for couscous and bed.


Hotel Tislit Bride













220 dirhams for dinner, bed and breakfast.
Had to knock a pannier back into shape tonight with a rock – I guess Touratech’s advertising is correct! Absolutely beautiful meal – since breakfast all I’d had was a stale pain au chocolat from Azrou, a banana and the remainder of the Nice biscuits.



Matthew and Sarah called me over to share dinner at their table.



He’s into micro-finance working for an NGO and she works on Palestinian reconciliation studies in Jersualem.


the interior of hotel tislit bride

Excellent stuff. Great photo's and you really have managed to convey your sense of enjoyment.

Looking forward to the next update.

A cracker, thanks

Saturday 19th (225 miles)

Had huge breakfast overlooking the lake. Rachid insisted on taking my picture.



He was very excited to see that after a careful study of his guest register I was his first visitor from Ireland. Headed into Imilchil in search of Sans Plomb. No luck but if I heard the mantra “Bon Super monsieur, Bon Super” once, I heard it a dozen times. I got 10 litres at 15 dirhams a litre – I know, ripped off but I was running low and didn’t fancy haggling over a couple of quid.







Beautiful morning.











I’ve just pulled in off the R317 towards Aghbala.









Rachid told me the legend of Lac Tislit over breakfast. Apparently a man from one tribe and a woman from another wanted to marry but their parents did not allow it. She came to this place and wept, her tears forming the lake. Her lover was at Islay, also sobbing for what could have been. You guessed it: his tears formed the lake there.
One lake is named after a bride and the other for the husband. I heard another version in which a prostitute called Tislit, having been expelled from her village, was told by Allah to settle there and to dig a well which became the lake we have now.


spotted this stork building its nest in Khenifra



Back in Azrou now eating a great tagine listening to the muezzin’s call to prayer.





Visited what’s left of the ancient Roman city of Volubilis – should have used a guide to get a better idea of what’s what. Fascinating place.

Enjoyed that David - thanks

Are you able to post a map of the route you took?

Me too! Excellent David. Great Photies!

Great pics, looks like you had a ball David

Saturday Part 2

Parked up at the Ibis Meknes and caught a Petit Taxi into the Medina Ancienne.










this tiny girl ran over and tugged at my trousers before running off











Down the back streets of the medina your senses are beseiged with everything from the heady smells of spices to the sight of severed animal heads and baskets full of rabbits.












When I finished my dinner a guy casually sauntered over, scooped up what was left of my meal and wandered off into the crowd...










































what do you do with severed heads??

















what a place!!

Looks like a great trip
Lovely shots , what camera? ... circular polariser?

Excellent report Giving us all itchy feet

Alte Wolf said:

Looks like a great trip
Lovely shots , what camera? ... circular polariser?

Click to expand...

I've only ever had an IXUS but it got stolen a few weeks before I left so I bought a Nikon D40 - still getting to grips with it - it's totally standard and I've no idea what a circular polariser is!

davidgibson999 said:

I've only ever had an IXUS but it got stolen a few weeks before I left so I bought a Nikon D40 - still getting to grips with it - it's totally standard and I've no idea what a circular polariser is!

Click to expand...

OK ... Nikon D40 that answers the question

Dont worry about circular polarisers you are doing just fine

BTW the next time you fancy a quick raid give me a shout