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Thread: Stripped allen key headed bolt - how to remove ?

  1. #1
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    Stripped allen key headed bolt - how to remove ?

    It had to happen I guess.... I managed to srtip the allen key head on my final drive filling bolt/nut thingie . Not a huge problem but I'd like to get it sorted . It's rounded off so whats the best way to get it out now ? I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
    It had to happen I guess.... I managed to srtip the allen key head on my final drive filling bolt/nut thingie . Not a huge problem but I'd like to get it sorted . It's rounded off so whats the best way to get it out now ? I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?

    Is it recessed? If not, try filing a couple of flats and using a spanner. Otherwise, the torx bit is the way to go.

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    torx, but you may need to use a diamond bit in a dremmel to get a really tight fit

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    torx bit should work...but if it doesn't the approved way is to use a small chisel/screwdriver/blade thingy on the outer edge - max torque applied on the outer edge.

    be prepared to use a new one if it gets ruined tho...


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    if it sticks out weld onto it and turn that if it's flush try a flat headed srew driver with liquid metal on the end bit slow but works alright.

    you may also want to heat the area to make the thread area expand thus making the bolt easier to remove.

    or hit with hammer swearing wildly... in blind rage

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    Stripped bolt.

    As the bolt is scrap use a small pair of steelsons, these are avialable in approx 6" size and will grip any thing. This barbaric toll will get you out of many "impossible" tasks and will be a good investment. take no notice of the
    "arm chair experts " who will scream protest just get a pair (and a new plug)
    and your problems will be over.
    dave ( steelson) GS.

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    Steve- yeah it's recessed and sitting quite flush to the final drive casing so I can't even get a mole grip onto it.

    So ....torx it will be I reckon. Only problem is getting to a BMW shop to blag a new one before I destroy the old one.

    I may wait till I'm back from me trip away before risking f*cking it up totally and wishing I'd never started

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    Had you already drained the oil before trying to undo the filler?

    Turn the bike upside-down and refill.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
    I was thinking of trying an oversized torx bit tapped in to the now rounded allen key insert but are there any better ways ?
    There is no better way

    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
    So ....torx it will be I reckon. Only problem is getting to a BMW shop to blag a new one before I destroy the old one.
    Why bother with a new one - just use the old one thats now been converted to torx
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    Steptoe probably has the best idea, but if for some reason that doesn't work, just use an easy-out. They're cheap, almost always work and I've used 'em a lot over the years.......hhmmm that may be as admission to hamfistedness

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott View Post
    Steptoe probably has the best idea, but if for some reason that doesn't work, just use an easy-out. They're cheap, almost always work and I've used 'em a lot over the years.......hhmmm that may be as admission to hamfistedness

    well all I can add is my personal opinion, but I would say never, never use an easy out. total Basta*d things. Whenever I've tried, I've ended up with a sheared off bit of hardened steel easy out stuck inside the bolt. far better to drill the bolt out.

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    Another thing which may help is something I was advised to do when I did the same thing to a nut attaching a brake disc to my old Hornet. As well as the heating, I pulled some fine threads from a copper/brass bristled brush or some very fine wire and put this into the rounded off allen head. When the torx head is banged in, it can give it someting to grip.

    Also use an impact driver. I'd also soak it in WD40 or similar, to get into the threads which will make it easier to get out.

    Quite a recipe, but it should work.

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    Jimbo, Did you drill the bolt before using the easy out or just try and use it in the stripped hole as is? I admit that "easy" doesn't always apply, but I've never had one break.

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    Stripped bolt

    As its flush steelsons no good, what ever you try heat it up witha hot air gun first, the ally ncase will expand more than the plug and it must help.
    In future just belive it's sealed for life and save any future agro!.
    dave gs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
    There is no better way



    Why bother with a new one - just use the old one thats now been converted to torx



    Torx bit plus = or

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    Quote Originally Posted by davegs View Post
    As its flush steelsons no good, what ever you try heat it up witha hot air gun first, the ally ncase will expand more than the plug and it must help.
    In future just belive it's sealed for life and save any future agro!.
    dave gs.
    ....yeah but I was fixing it till it broke..... and I wanted to change the final drive oil coz leaving that in there forever might not be a good thing - nor would drilling it out methinks I like Steve's idea of tipping the bike upside down and filling it through the drain plug - a very novel approach that is

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