terayon
Registered user
the 11 digit number
80 00 0 611 656
80 00 0 611 656
Taking power from the BMW GPS socket
- Thread starter Firebird
- Start date
AndyW
Registered user
Since I first enquired Bristol Motorrad have had a couple more requests! 
Took them a while to find it, before we had the right part no. - what you say about it not being a 'resaleable item' might be the reason.
Took them a while to find it, before we had the right part no. - what you say about it not being a 'resaleable item' might be the reason.
Johnny Dangerously
Registered user
can just confirm that I've just got mine from Park Lane BMW as well. Arrived in the post today within 4 days of me placing order!
tops, will be wiring that up at the weekend
tops, will be wiring that up at the weekend
beacon
Registered user
Can any one tell me which of those identical yellow wires go where?
Many thanks
Chris
Many thanks
Chris
AndyW
Registered user
Cheeky f*ing git.
The wires to the socket on the bike are as follows (you don't use 2)
(1) Brown = ground
(2) Blue/Green = Speed Pulse
(3) Red/White = 12V
I think the yellow wires are also marked 1, 2 and 3 but not got the connector in front of me. Easy enough, the connector only fits one way so you'll see which wire is which.
TIP connecting wires:
Strip the wires, twist together good and tight then solder the joint (avoids dry joints and high resistance joints that can result from conventional method of tinning and soldering wires) Heat shrink or self amalgamating tape to finish.
beacon
Registered user
Thanks Andy knowing the yellow wires are numbered helps,
Chjris
Chjris
AndyW
Registered user
INSTRUCTIONS
I've done a full blown 'How to' article here now:
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=167512
Let me know if there's any oversights/errors.......thanks
I've done a full blown 'How to' article here now:
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=167512
Let me know if there's any oversights/errors.......thanks
beacon
Registered user
Andy thats a nice clear wright up, I see that you left the inline fuse off the Garmin lead, what is your thinking behind that? I left mine in place but it does make it less easy to make a neat job.
Chris
Chris
terayon
Registered user
Don't think the BMW Navigators have fuses either, as the canbus will shut them down if anything was to go wrong
AndyW
Registered user
Thanks and like the man said Chris 
............and just for reference, to be effective fuses need to be as close to the battery as possible
............and just for reference, to be effective fuses need to be as close to the battery as possible
AndyW
Registered user
INSTRUCTION
Updated..........
"I think I will tidy my installation by using your method.
There's another 'cons' to add to your 'Use the original power lead... direct to the battery' -- that the terminals get oxidised (is that the right term?) by being live all the time.
Tim" (when using a direct always live supply from the battery)
Updated..........
"I think I will tidy my installation by using your method.
There's another 'cons' to add to your 'Use the original power lead... direct to the battery' -- that the terminals get oxidised (is that the right term?) by being live all the time.
Tim" (when using a direct always live supply from the battery)
ironandsteel
Registered user
Great Article
That is a great article AndyW - I have searched around and can't find anyone to supply me with the part number 80 00 0 611 656 (even Bristol Motorrad) as they say that this classed as a tool and they have been specifically asked not to sell them. It affects their bonus or something....any ideas on how to obtain one?
Help appreciated.
That is a great article AndyW - I have searched around and can't find anyone to supply me with the part number 80 00 0 611 656 (even Bristol Motorrad) as they say that this classed as a tool and they have been specifically asked not to sell them. It affects their bonus or something....any ideas on how to obtain one?
Help appreciated.
AndyW
Registered user
I bought mine from Bristol Motorrad!!!!!!!!
I'd ask them again to supply part number 80 00 0 611 656 (£8.52) and if they won't play ball order by phone from another Dealer..........and advise BM that you may be taking all future business elsewhere!
Just as an aside, here's the actual lead for the BMW Navigator GPS systems.
I'd ask them again to supply part number 80 00 0 611 656 (£8.52) and if they won't play ball order by phone from another Dealer..........and advise BM that you may be taking all future business elsewhere!
Just as an aside, here's the actual lead for the BMW Navigator GPS systems.
Attachments
I had the devils own job getting one. In the end, I phoned Ocean in Plymouth. Extremely helpful and knew exactly what I was after. Was posted to me within a week
You might want to try Stumpy on this forum as well. Drop him a quick PM 
AndyW
Registered user
Here's another possible reason to power your SatNav unit via a switched source:
ZumoForum said:
Pretty tiny current, possibly due to contamination across the contacts on the cradle?
freeloader
Registered user
I've had a similar experience.
Bike is an F800GS, Zumo is powered from the socket under the fake tank cover (which is the designated GPS connector), and recently added an Autocom piggybacked to the auxiliary socket. Over winter on two occasions the battery went completely flat - hadn't been using the bike much but it was garaged - took it to BMW and they charged the battery, got the bike back.
Battery went flat again, so they checked that the battery was OK. That tested as good, but they then noticed my Zumo connection, admittedly I'd sussed which two of the 3 connectors to use and had just tinned the ends of the wires and pushed them into the socket - although I did that after seeing it recommended somewhere! This seemed to work just fine, Zumo and Autocom operated as I'd expected.
However, the technician reckoned that the missing connection (the so-called "speed pulse" one) was the reason for the battery going flat. They'd noticed that the power was remaining on after "ignition off" for far longer than it should have been - something was not permitting the power to switch off when it should - and that everything electrical was drawing power in that state, hence the flattening of the battery. Since the Zumo's power cable only has two wires, I didn't see a need to use the third wire. And if even the empty cradle draws poer, what I think I'll do is wire the Zumo through a relay, triggered from the power to the auxiliary socket.
Does that sound reasonable?
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