DR650 make over

well ive made a start at putting her back together.
im just going to put her back to stock for now as it will make it easier for the mot
i also decided to only paint the parts that really need it.i like the look of wel maintained but used rather than tarted up.
heres the frame with the front end back in.
 

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finally got the spacers/bearing races for the swing arm and got it put back in.
didnt really know what to do with the engine so i ended up just giving it a good clean and setting it back in.the real fiddly stuff starts now what with cleaning and painting lots of wee brackets etc ond sorting the wiring.
hope a couple more days will see her back on the road.
 

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:thumbwell she is up and runnin again.
pretty stock at the mo but after mot some things will change.
i'll get rid of the clocks and all the associated gubbins.also the headlight etc will fit the aftermarket enduro light and a bicycle speedo.
also slim down the back end.
was out for a spin this pm with shinobi and the main thing that i'm still not happy with is rear wheel causing limited tyre choice.
but BIG THANKS to ROB YORKY and FORRY for pointing me in the direction of the 350 wheel on flea bay:thumb
so lookng forward to gettin that and the better tyre choice this will give me(tkc 80's are crap in the dirt:(
the hagon front fork springs made such a difference on the rough so thanks to TIMOLGRA for that idea.
cheers,kyle
 

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snoopy said:
I still occasionally check eBay for a cheap DR650 but nobody sells 'em.
Click to expand...

Just had a 2 minute search and found this lot currently available.


Some of them look quite good,if you are prepared to jump on an easyJet flight for £50 to go fetch !!!
 
forry said:
Looking good glad you got the wheel :thumb
Click to expand...

the wheel arrived today:D
alas there was no cush drive assembly with it:blast

got her mot done today also.it really is a joke over here.the bloke pushed it back and fort a bit applying the front brake.pushed down on the seat.
fiddled with the chain which meant he got his hand all greasy:rolleyes:
at one point he actually rapped the back tyre with his knuckles:nenau

anyhow once that was done and dusted i was able to strip a bucketful of stuff off her mirrors indicators headlamp clocks pillion pegs etc.

so now i'm just waiting for the new back mudgaurd and will get some mini indicators for the cambrian oh and a bicycle speedo:augie

so at the mo this is how she looks:thumb2
 

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kyle said:
the wheel arrived today:D
alas there was no cush drive assembly with it:blast

got her mot done today also.it really is a joke over here.the bloke pushed it back and fort a bit applying the front brake.pushed down on the seat.
fiddled with the chain which meant he got his hand all greasy:rolleyes:
at one point he actually rapped the back tyre with his knuckles:nenau

anyhow once that was done and dusted i was able to strip a bucketful of stuff off her mirrors indicators headlamp clocks pillion pegs etc.

so now i'm just waiting for the new back mudgaurd and will get some mini indicators for the cambrian oh and a bicycle speedo:augie

so at the mo this is how she looks:thumb2
Click to expand...

I only fit the speedo for MOT, otherwise use the GPS. I've got power sockets where the speedo was mounted. Not sure if I should change back for the Cambrian. See you there. :thumb2
 
kyle said:
alas there was no cush drive assembly with it:blast
Click to expand...

aw bollix:(

think i was just never meant to put an 18" wheel on the back of this bike.
the cush drive arrived the other day so i put all together and offered it up to the back end of the bike.alas everyting is different.:eek:

the disc wont swap over and it is much smaller than the original,all the bearings have a bigger inside diameter and the spacers aren't right.

the only thing i can think of to do is get the hubs swapped.at least the both rims take the same number of spokes:eek:

have any of you ever attempted to build a wheel?
how hard is it?
any suggestions happily received:nenau
 
If your hub flanges are the same diameter and there is the same number of spokes its a lot easier than you think. Take a few photos to show the lacing pattern. First job is to soak the spoke nipples in wd40 and check they are all loose. then just mark which spoke goes in which holes in the rim (there will be 4 groups of spokes - pushers and pullers on each side of the wheel). The holes in the rim are drilled to match. Take the spokes out 1 group at a time and keep them separate. Make a note of how many times they cross each other.

to re-build start with the group which are on the inside of the hub flange. (ie the ones that get crossed over by the outside group). As long as the right spokes match the right holes in the rim lacing up the hub is pretty easy. Avoid tightening them up until they are all in place and you are sure everything is ok. Finally true the wheel. This can take ages but the trick is not to do too much at once. Gradually tension the spokes by working around the rim giving each nipple half a turn at a time. Once you have a reasonable bit of tension (ie no spokes are loose) set the runout. Stick the wheel in the swingarm and use the nipples to pull the rim over until it is all true. Then check for eccentricity. Any highspots are pulled in by tightening all of the spokes in the area of the high spot. Once the rim is true, give each nipple a tweak (!) to get the right tension, do a final true and bobs your aunty. After riding it for a bit (like a mile or so), stop and recheck spoke tension and wheel run out.
 
thanks phil.
sadly the diameters are different.so i guess new spokes would be required.
was thinking of taking a couple out of each wheel(of each type)to see what might match up.
dont really know:eek:
anyhow going away for the week end so its on the back burner for now:(
 
well on further invetigation i find that the outside dia of the 350 wheel bearings are the same as the 650,and the inside dia of the cush drive bearing is the same as the 650.:confused:
so now all i have to worry about is the brake.
i have purchased a rear caliper,bracket and brake line from a 350 off ebay so am waiting to see if ths can be fitted :rolleyes:

also here is a pic of the 'optional extras':augie i have taken off.
its all weight that is quite high up on the bike and weighs in at 22lb.:eek:

so well worth removing IMO:thumb2
 

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kyle said:
well on further invetigation i find that the outside dia of the 350 wheel bearings are the same as the 650,and the inside dia of the cush drive bearing is the same as the 650.:confused:
so now all i have to worry about is the brake.
Click to expand...

I've just this minute changed the wheel bearing on the 650, I seem to be getting through them at an alarming rate but have found the bearings from a bearing supplier who does them for a third of the price.

Remember when you bolt the 650 disc to the 350 wheel you need to slightly countersink the threads by a couple of mm to allow the spigot on the 650 bolts to tighten without binding.
 
timolgra said:
Remember when you bolt the 650 disc to the 350 wheel you need to slightly countersink the threads by a couple of mm to allow the spigot on the 650 bolts to tighten without binding.
Click to expand...

cheers tim.

im going to be sticking with the 350 disc(i hope)
the pre96 650 is so different from your bike its just not funny.so if this doesnt work i'll just be stayin with the 650 rear wheel:(
 
kyle said:
cheers tim.

im going to be sticking with the 350 disc(i hope)
the pre96 650 is so different from your bike its just not funny.so if this doesnt work i'll just be stayin with the 650 rear wheel:(
Click to expand...

should you not be blowing out large numbers of candles instead of thinking about wheels:D
 
DR parts

You're all pretty clued up on DRs, pls could anyone recommend the best place to source parts like a coil and CDI for a DR600?

They need to be new, as I'm trouble-shooting old bits that are iffy and there's no point doing that with equally doubtful used bits.

Cheers!

Paul G
 
The Other PaulG said:
You're all pretty clued up on DRs, pls could anyone recommend the best place to source parts like a coil and CDI for a DR600?

They need to be new, as I'm trouble-shooting old bits that are iffy and there's no point doing that with equally doubtful used bits.

Cheers!

Paul G
Click to expand...

Try suzuki spares direct on 0208 969074
 
The Other PaulG said:
You're all pretty clued up on DRs, pls could anyone recommend the best place to source parts like a coil and CDI for a DR600?

They need to be new, as I'm trouble-shooting old bits that are iffy and there's no point doing that with equally doubtful used bits.

Cheers!

Paul G
Click to expand...

hi paul
the dr600 is a whole other animal. go with what timolgra said or even try suzuki dealers.i have found them to be helpful and not overly expensive..
the classic jap bike boyos really like these and may also be helpful:thumb2
 
kyle said:
well on further invetigation i find that the outside dia of the 350 wheel bearings are the same as the 650,and the inside dia of the cush drive bearing is the same as the 650.:confused:
so now all i have to worry about is the brake.
i have purchased a rear caliper,bracket and brake line from a 350 off ebay so am waiting to see if ths can be fitted :rolleyes:

also here is a pic of the 'optional extras':augie i have taken off.
its all weight that is quite high up on the bike and weighs in at 22lb.:eek:

so well worth removing IMO:thumb2
Click to expand...



:topic slightly I know :eek:

But this reminds me of when I stripped an RD400 in preparation for Drag Racing. After losing all the obvious stuff like seat, mud guards, wheels etc we set about the frame with a hack saw.

When we finished we got the scales out and weighed the bits. We took off thirty pounds of unwanted metal from the frame.

It's amazing just how much of a difference removing a few extra bits will make weight-wise.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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