Fuel pump controller workaround

No more swimming pool!

I have an 04 GS. Fuel pump went on it last year, due to water ingress. New unit was sent in the post from CW Motorcycles with updated o-ring. To stop the swimming pool filling up again i fitted a oil lamp wick,from the deepest part of the pool, under the cover and cable tied down part of the side cover frame. Now when out in the rain or when washed down, pool is empty in about 30 seconds. Can't drown unless in water! Works for me.:beer:
 
cutting edge digital engine management...




..and a lamp wick. like it (no really) :thumb2


what's next? service history filled in with a quill pen?
 
Pump controller gasket

Simple question: Should there be a gasket with it, or is it truly a separate part?

Yes Wapping, I got mine about 4 weeks ago from a dealer and there was a gasket mounted on the unit in the box!
 
This problem has been posted many times along with the side stand switch problem.
It seems odd that no one has marketed a bypass lead for either.
Does anyone know where to get the relevant plugs from?
 
Woooodentop said:
This problem has been posted many times along with the side stand switch problem.
It seems odd that no one has marketed a bypass lead for either.
Does anyone know where to get the relevant plugs from?
Click to expand...


The company that makes the plugs for BMW does so an OEM basis, probably ordered in batches of 1000 or so. Not very cost effective.
 
Woooodentop said:
This problem has been posted many times along with the side stand switch problem.
It seems odd that no one has marketed a bypass lead for either.
Does anyone know where to get the relevant plugs from?
Click to expand...


**It seems odd that no one has marketed a bypass lead **

I had thought about doing so, BUT, can not locate the plugs/sockets any where.
 
GSdreamer said:
Simple question: Should there be a gasket with it, or is it truly a separate part?

Yes Wapping, I got mine about 4 weeks ago from a dealer and there was a gasket mounted on the unit in the box!
Click to expand...

Thanks...

I thought there should be, as the gasket was shown on the parts fiche, 'boxed' in with the controller, both under one part number.

There was no gasket with mine.

Back to BuMW I will trot.....
 
Ok ... been a while .. some information .. on teh can buss petrol controller as I understand it?

The switch is just that - off or on .. in eitehr position (or state) it dissapates little power. But it can operate very fast - so the pump can be controlled ..

The electronics does not controll the fuel pressure .. no sensor so no control .. must be a regulator somewheres.

The can buss EFI system knows about how much fuel the bike is consuming so can vary the pumps output to keep over the required supply. This keeps the fuel pressure happy .. and reduces the power required to the pump .. and keeps the fuel from gettins so hot ..
 
Frank Warner said:
Ok ... been a while .. some information .. on teh can buss petrol controller as I understand it?

The switch is just that - off or on .. in eitehr position (or state) it dissapates little power. But it can operate very fast - so the pump can be controlled ..

The electronics does not controll the fuel pressure .. no sensor so no control .. must be a regulator somewheres.

The can buss EFI system knows about how much fuel the bike is consuming so can vary the pumps output to keep over the required supply. This keeps the fuel pressure happy .. and reduces the power required to the pump .. and keeps the fuel from gettins so hot ..
Click to expand...


Good stuff...

This would seem to make sense.

I was never convinced by the 'It drops the pump to 80%' theory. 80% of what? Average demand? Maximum demand? Maximum speed / pumping efficiency? None it seemed to make sense. If the engine 'needs' x mil litres of fuel a minute - as it is burning that much - why supply it with 80% of x?

I can though see a lot of sense in not running a pump at 100% if all it is spinning, or the bike simply burns unspent (overpumped) fuel with no positive benefits.
 
many fuel injection systems just pump the same fuel round and round a circuit with the injectors taking what they need.

that's why it switches to 80%, it's not supplying direct to the injector.
 
cookie said:
many fuel injection systems just pump the same fuel round and round a circuit with the injectors taking what they need.

that's why it switches to 80%, it's not supplying direct to the injector.
Click to expand...

Score two for the 80% camp.... :D

I think I might just contact BuMW and ask them.... :aidan

I never guessed two bits of wire, a free plug and an old Optimate plug could cause so much excitement....:bounce1
 
Wapping said:
I think I might just contact BuMW and ask them.... :aidan
Click to expand...

So I did, by eamail, today.

I wonder if you can help me, please?

There have been several (probably lots, if your dealers' responses are genuine) well documented reports of the fuel controller, that sits on top of the fuel pump, failing on 1200GS and GSA machines.

Quite why the controllers are failing seems to be a bit of a mystery. The answer, depending on who you talk to, seemingly ranging from:

(a) They get flooded. I guess this is linked to the pool of water that they often seem to sit in? Possibly explaining why the 08 GS now has a more sloped recess for the unit?

(b) They are getting overly hot and 'frying'.

Leaving aside the precise cause(s) of failures, I would be interested to know:

(a) What the controller does, precisely. Again, there seems to be several theories but no definite facts.

(b) Whether - as a simple 'Get you home bodge' - it can be removed?


What is well known is that, when the fuel controller fails the bike is left completely immobilised. So, having a 'bodge' - to at least get you moving towards home or help - would seem practical and sensible, especially on an 'adventure' motorcycle, notwithstanding the efforts of BMW Assistance, obviously.


Using the female plug off a failed controller, I lashed up a simple live power feed (via a fused connection) straight to the battery. This misses out the controller completely. Of course the fuel pump runs continuously but at least it is now pumping fuel. The bike will run, apparently as well as ever. The lead can simply be detached when at rest and silence is restored.


This is, as I said, nothing more than a roadside fix. I would definitely not want to run the bike 24/7 with this lash-up in place. I see it very much more as a real, in-extremis, solution. Indeed, to avoid using it at all. I now have one spare controller riding along with me, courtesy of BMW's spares department at Battersea.

I was wondering whether the lash-up was likely to do some unseen damage of which I am unaware? Or, whether, after several miles, somehow the lack of the controller would somehow 'confuse' the fuelling system, leading to other problems.

I hope that you can help me and look forward to hearing from you. In the meantime, my 06 GSA is performing faultlessly and is great fun to ride.

Thank you and kind regards,
 
Bypass wiring

Running direct to the battery is OK as a short term measure, but means the pump is continuously running unless you disconnect the cable.

My bike isn't going to be near a dealer for some time, so I've done a controller bypass to the existing wiring loom. OK, it's not neat but this is something the dealer is going to have to sort out under warranty when I'm back in the UK.

The connector running into the TOP of controller has three wires. Bare the right-hand and middle ones (and try not to slash the other in half as I did). Make an 'eye' in each of the cables to accept the splice.

IMG_1658e.jpg


As with Wapping's pics, cut the two cables with terminator block off the BOTTOM of the duff controller and splice
- the BLUE bottom cable into the BROWN top one
- the YELLOW bottom cable into the BLUE/GREEN top one.

IMG_1659e.jpg


Cover liberally with insulating tape, plug the terminator block into its position and start engine!

Tim

PS: PS: according to the AdvRider thread at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6898745 it's an overheating problem and the new part number (16147694378 ??) has an improved heat sink.
 
i had a look at the controller in case i ever need to replace it and although i had no water there was a bit of grit etc there - wouldnt it be a far better to just use a different cover instead of the open topped affair thats at the front of the bike and is bound to allow water in??

Something with a simple cover would do or if u feel fancy somth with an air scoop to the unit and then an "exhaust" vent at the rear so u have the cooling airflow but also minimising the water ingresss???
 
Unlike my previous 1200GS, my Adventure doesn't have the screw-on cover for this area. The bottom of the controller is extremely effectively sealed with thick rubber, so I really don't think it's a water ingress problem.

Anyway, I stripped the rubber off and some of the PCB components are burnt out.
 
my 2006 gs doesnt have a screw on cover either - its a push on. i saw the pics and there does appear to be a good seal on the base of the controller.

do you have a pic of the burnt out components? I am thinking of making a modified cover/ ram air scoop( with a water drain) as it appears its an overheating problem ( new part with larger heatsink and your burnt components)
 
Great thread this, very interesting and handy as a handy thing.

My mate called yesterday and he broke down with this very thing. Had a new one fitted by a breakdown guy who had just stocked up on them!!

So in light of my up and coming euro trip he has kindly donated his old controller so it's plug will be accompanying me 'just in case' as they say. Be prepared, dib dib and all that.
 
Last edited:
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