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Thread: Fuel pump controller workaround

  1. #17
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    Bob, a simple and quick test to see if it Is the FPC at fault, just disconnect the blue pin plug from the FPC, then make up a simple 2 wire lead from the battery terminals and connect to the fuel pump. This will quickly identify if the FPC is at fault as you will hear the fuel pump working and the bike should start. If you don't understand this, then, please don't try, as this bypasses the ignition live, and will operate the fuel pump continuously. This is purely to eliminate whether its the PFC or another issue.
    Wappings thread is very good if you have a spare 2 pin compatible plug, but failing that just attach a + and a - from the battery direct to the PFC.
    Its your call to try.

  2. #18
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    Edit, last sentence... battery direct to the fuel pump.

  3. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AberdeenAngus View Post
    Bob, if your FPC is silver/grey coloured rather than black, I would just change it anyway.
    The earlier (silver/grey) ones were the problematic ones.
    That was my first idea when several people suggested the problem might be the FPC, but I gather they are about £120 and I'm pretty sure mine was replaced in the recall a few years back so I would rather not spend £120 on a new one if I don't need it.

  4. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirby morgan View Post
    Wappings thread is very good if you have a spare 2 pin compatible plug, but failing that just attach a + and a - from the battery direct to the PFC.
    Its your call to try.
    That is the tricky bit, I don't have a spare plug to connect to the fuel pump so I need another way to do it without cutting the existing wiring.

    If I unplug the connector from the top of the FPC, take a lead from the battery and splice into the wires from the bottom of the FPC going into the blue plug which connect to the fuel pump, will it fry the FPC if its not already dead? So I am supplying power direct to the fuel pump but using the blue connector while it is still connected to the FPC.

  5. #21
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    Bob. Simplify the process.
    Get a 2 core wire, bare both ends. Get someone to hold one end of the 2 core wire and attach to positive and negative at the battery. You get the other end , unplug the blue connector off the top of the fuel pump. Now touch the 2 wires to the 2 fuel pump connectors. If it primes or appears to be working, then the fault lies with the FPC. Simple, replace the fpc.
    This explanation is a quick fault finding process. Hope this helps, or can someone explain better ?

  6. #22
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    Thats fine, I got it thanks. I haven't tried taking the FPC off as yet so didn't know how feasible (or sensible) it was to stick bare wires into the fuel pump...touch live wires to the wrong thing...electrical short...sparks...petrol tank...not a good combination!

  7. #23
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    I took the FPC off and found a pool of water and gunge in the recess underneath, covering the contacts for the fuel pump. Having cleaned and dried it the engine seems to be running OK now, better than it has for some time in fact, so fingers crossed the problem is resolved and all I need to replace is the seal under the FPC which has split.

    I found out some interesting things in the process though which contradict what I have read in other threads/posts here. According to the technician at Rainbow Motorcycles in Rotherham, who were a very helpful bunch:
    • The live to the fuel pump is the yellow wire, not the blue one
    • There is no input to the FPC from the fuel gauge, so a broken fuel strip does not mean the FPC runs at 100% all the time.

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