1150GS + Autocom Active Rider = noise

KevinW

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I've just fitted an Autocom to my 1150GS and it's really noisy. I can hear a whine that coincides with the revs rising and falling and what sounds like several thousand servos.

Its currently connected via a Centech auxiliary fuse panel which is wired to the positive lead on the battery and a relay which is connected to a ignition-operated live feed that was in the fuse box (seems to be associated with the Autoswitch). The Autocom is located just behind the battery (which was the only place I could see to fit it) next to the Centech panel.

I have Autocoms on several bikes wired in a similar way with no issue but assume there's something about the GS I'm not aware of. Is there a magic live feed and location I should be using?

Thanks.

Kevin
 
What have you got plugged into your system if anything?

Rich:beerjug:
I'm not sure whether there really was a "Well try it with nothing plugged in" implied in that question but I just did - it's the Zumo audio out.

I'm currently running the audio lead alongside the Zumo power lead so I'm wondering whether to separate them whilst being loathe to do it based on just my own guess as to what the issue is as it's not a 5 minute job.

Kevin
 
Noise

1) You could try earthing the Autocom directly to the battery negative terminal
2) You must have an isolator lead connecting the audio out of the Zumo to the Autocom audio input. A plain 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable will not do. Consider a part 1314 if you just want audio without the phone or the 1314/bluetooth dongle combination if you want to use a phone as well.
 
I'll try connecting it directly to the battery.

I'm using the Autocom Zumo lead (parts 1299, 1294 and 1308) which I assume does what's needed (it might have been helpful if I'd mentioned that before...:augie)

Mind you, I'm focussed elsewhere at the moment as the VDO(?) is displaying nothing but the time which is less than helpful. It's been doing this on and off since I had an alarm fitted and appears to be a loose connection somewhere.

Kevin
 
You have certainly got a lot of leads connected in there.

Basically that setup is not recommended by Autocom for the Zumo if you want to use the phone and have stereo music.
The recommended set-up is part 1273 Bluetooth dongle if your Active rider is wired for power through Aux1 or part 1276 if it is not. The bluetooth carries the connection for the mono mobile phone.
To this you add part 1314 - isolated stereo music lead - connected to Aux 2 on the Active rider for the MP3 part of the Zumo. In your case, instead of buying a brand new 1314 cable for this purpose, you could reuse the output part of your 1299 cable, leaving the microphone input disconnected.
The 1294 and 1308 leads are not isolated - therefore not suitable for a bike-powered Zumo and are almost certainly the cause of your noise problem. Disconnect them one by one from the Zumo until the noise disappears.( You might still find the 1308 useful for a battery powered iPod or similar.)
Alternatively see what happens when you run the Zumo on battery power only -the noise should disappear when it is no longer bike-powered.
If all this is gobbledegook, then give Autocom a call on Monday morning.
 
I'm not sure whether there really was a "Well try it with nothing plugged in" implied in that question but I just did - it's the Zumo audio out.

I'm currently running the audio lead alongside the Zumo power lead so I'm wondering whether to separate them whilst being loathe to do it based on just my own guess as to what the issue is as it's not a 5 minute job.

Kevin

No I was meaning have you got a GPS or bike to bike plugged in. So as John has said you are either running the wrong cable for the Zumo or you will need to look at your cable routing along the bike.

Rich :beerjug:
 
Basically that setup is not recommended by Autocom for the Zumo if you want to use the phone and have stereo music.
Now I'm confused (which I admit doesn't take a lot). These leads were described by Autocom as Zumo leads, arrive with instructions specifically for connecting the Zumo and were originally purchased when I first bought the Zumo as Autocom's recommended method for connecting the Zumo to the bike.

Whenever we've bought another bike we've just called Autocom, ordered a Zumo lead and that is what has arrived. They work fine in our other bikes.

Kevin
 
The part 1299 can be used and does supply steroe sound so there will be no issues there.

So to see what is actually causing the noise I would recommend disconnecting the Part 1299 to see if the noise stops. If it does you know that the lead routing or where the isolation block in on the Part 1299 needs to be moved as it could be this picking up the noise.

Rich
 
[time passes] Our fuel pump failed last week and has been replaced. Since then there is no noise at all over the Autocom. [shrugs] I've no idea why that made a difference but it's now much better.

Kevin
 


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