Tips for Newbies
Just a few pointers aimed primarily at the “Newbies” on the Off Road ride.
So please don’t moan if I’m stating the obvious.
We shall be following the TRF Code of Conduct:
(You can now join the TRF on line – lots of info on their web site)
Use only vehicular rights of way.
As the status of lanes is continually changing a few may “slip through the net”, but we will not intentionally ride any illegal lanes.
Motorcycles and riders must be road-legal.
We wont be checking your licence, insurance, MOT, road tax etc but you do need to be fully road legal.
Keep to the defined way across farmland.
We may have to divert around deep water filled ruts though.
Give way to walkers, horses and cyclists.
We’ll expect you to stop and switch off engines whilst horses pass.
Fasten gates to safeguard stock.
See below “Gates”
Travel at a safe speed.
This should not exceed the voluntary maximum of 25mph. Hmmmmmm!
Ride quietly.
Machines must be effectively silenced.
Honour the country code.
Just a few tips for Newbies (from me, so not everybody will agree):
Preparing your bike.
Tyres – you’ll need tyres that’ll cope with tarmac and dirt. Extreme off road tyres wont be necessary. TKC80 (or equivalent) will be fine. Running with less pressure in the tyre will give better grip, but increase the chance of rim damage (I’ll leave a compromise pressure up for discussion). Have a puncture repair kit with you (and know how to use it).
Tools – for flat tyres, spark plug removal etc
Brakes – riding in certain types of muck can wear pads quickly, so make sure there’s plenty there to wear down.
ABS – best to ride on loose ground with it disengaged (stops those “sh*t I’ve got no brakes” moments). Learn how to engage/disengage it.
Mirrors – might break in a tumble, taking them off solves this, but can make riding awkward for yourself and others behind you.
Panniers – do you really need to bring them?
Final drive breather – it can let water in, so check/change oil post ride or fit an extended breather pipe (do a search for various DIY lash ups).
Petrol – please fill up before the ride. You’ll need at least 100 miles worth. Please don’t ride a GSA with a full tank!
Crash bars/head protectors/stabilisers – the debate continues!
Footrest rubbers – take them out. Serrated pegs give better grip for your boots.
Clothing (recommendations only – you can wear what you like!)
You’ll need clothing that allows more movement than road riding, so loose is good. And you’ll get hot, so don’t wear too much and make sure it’s breathable (or come back 2 stone lighter!)
Sturdy boots – helps to have some grip on the sole.
Waterproofs – this is Wales!
Body armour – either integral with jacket/trousers or separate “armour suit”. Handy to have knee pads and shin protectors (if not integral with your boots).
Helmet – will get sweaty (have you got an old one?). It’s best not to rely on a visor for eye protection, instead wear goggles or safety glasses.
Water – bring plenty to drink. Your insides need to be kept as wet as your outsides will be.
Drop off system
The group will have a dedicated leader and last man. Know who these are. During the ride whenever the leader makes a turn he will signal for the following rider to stop and wait to direct all the other riders, until he sees the last man. It is important that the “marker” does not move away until the last man arrives. This stops the group splitting up and allows any breakdowns to be identified (the leader will run out of “markers” and then retrace his steps).
The order of riders between the leader and last man is unimportant – so no ban on overtaking.
If you arrive at a fork/junction with no marker (and it’s not blatantly obvious which way to go), then just wait.
The drop off system will apply on both tarmac and unsurfaced roads.
Gates
This simple system will keep things “moving along”:
Leader arrives at gate, “second” rider dismounts and opens gate, leader and “third” ride through, “third” rider stops and dismounts and holds gate for “second” rider and all others. The last man will then wait for “third” rider to close gate and rejoin the ride.
Riding a GS Off Road
The GS is big and heavy compared to dedicated off road bikes, but is actually more capable than many give it credit for. The route we’ll ride shouldn’t trouble a GS (but might trouble its rider!).
Stand up – this not only lowers the C of G (weight through pegs not seat) but allows more rider movement (front to back, side to side) to help balance the bike.
General rule is lean back on downhills and forward going up.
When riding tricky sections that require very low speeds it’s easier to sit and have legs ready to “dab” (just watch out for those pots on your shins!).
Don’t follow the rider too closely – leave a good gap between yourself and the rider in front. Gives you time to take avoiding action, pick a better line or find somewhere suitable to stop.
Look ahead – you don’t need to watch your front wheel (it knows what to do), look ahead and pick your line. The further ahead you look the less “hazards” you’ll have to deal with.
Ruts – the GS is in league with gravity, so no matter how hard you try to stay out of ruts, you’ll end up it one. This is no bad thing as you can’t slip sideways out of a rut, so there’s less chance of falling once you’re in one. There’s usually good grip in ruts, especially if there’s flowing water in them. A good steady pace is easier than riding slowly.
It is rare for a rut to be too deep for a GS to ride through. Just watch your toes don’t get snagged though!
It’s when you try to ride a GS sideways out of a rut that tumbles can occur (the front wheel might pop out but the back wont). So, again, look ahead – there will be places to leave the ruts under control. If not then it might be easiest to stop and manually lift your bike out.
Gears – try not to ride in 1st gear all the time, throttle response will be too jerky. Generally ride in high a gear as possible. But again, look ahead and change down early when approaching “hazards”.
Hazards – ie any change of ground or gradient. Most hazards should be tackled with a neutral throttle, eg when approaching a steep hill it’s best to build momentum and then roll up the hill rather than just power up.
Braking – try to ride so you don’t have to (did I mention looking ahead?). 200kg bikes, dual purpose tyres and loose/muddy ground don’t make for quick stops. Whether you prefer the front or back brake they should be used gently.
Assume that you will “lay down” the bike at least once. Please don’t rush to lift it back up, give time for photos, p*ss taking etc and then accept assistance in lifting it (your back will thank you).
Deep water – I wont be leading you through anything too deep (weather dependant), but different routes through puddles or falling off may cause your bike to ingest water. Stop your engine straight away. Then we’ll have some fun emptying it.
The pace will be set to the slowest rider. Because of the large numbers there should be plenty of rest/fag breaks. The ride will not be a race. No one will get left behind.
augie
"It'll take years to recover from this" & "You'll never climb again"
