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Thread: Switched power - The easy way

  1. #33
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  2. #34
    bollocks... ordered the Fuseblock before seeing this!! but I'm sure it will do fine!

  3. #35
    I have one of those leads on my bike. (only brought bike this week) when the ignition is on its reading full power. After its turned off at the key and the canbus shuts down the power in the way we all know it does it still shows 0.3v. What gives??

    If i have a phone charging under the seat and leave it there say overnight is that 0.3 volts going to cause an issue. (i know its not enough to charge the phone.)

  4. #36
    A simple version of this is to use that splitter cable and some Posi-Taps which I think are brilliant.

    This way requires no solder and the Posit-Taps just go into the spare wire by using the splitter cable.

    I know it's messy just now but only cos I do plan to run a Fusebox and wanted to keep the length on all the wires in case I move things.

    As of now it's just powering the sat nav (cables run round the side, for my Garmin 600 are the perfect length!) and a USB power which I got sitting next to the DIN power.

    Just thought for thos electrically challenged (like me) might find this an uber simple option for just a few bits. Fits under the tool tray, takes no time and is dead easy!


  5. #37
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    Switched power???

    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    Wapping, did you get this sold??

  6. #38
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    splitter cable

    just been reading all of these and thought i could do with one of them,rang Bmer and the 2 other codes dont relate to my bike,But!! kind levi at manchester said but there is an amendment for my bike (06`GSA) for the "retro" fit part 61 127 700 005. so as Wapping tells us all CHECK with your dealer,mine is in the UK, ordered and on its way.cheers

  7. #39
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    there is also an unused switched power supply under the seat of the 1200 gs it can be used to trip a relay to power stuff up!! its called the diagnostic plug.

    piece of pish to find and its in an accessable place too.

  8. #40
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    Just carried out this procedure for giving myself switched power for my autocom, first class post from wapping thank you sir!

    Heres a few photos i took for anyone else thinking of doing it as wappings photos have gone...

    Under the seat tool tray..




    Aux socket..



    Remove plug attach the new splitter..



    Plug the splitter back into the socket your now left with a free leg..



    Strip the cable back slip on some heat sleeving and i choose to attach some bullet crimps.(only had the red ones the slighter bigger blue would be better)







    You are now left with a switched live and neutral, choose to do what you wish with, wire in a relay or just plug an autocom in direct like i did..





    Id recommend for anyone the wireless soldering iron kit you can get from maplins,



    You can change the tips on it for different purposes but what i like best is one of the tips turns it into a blow gun for using on the heat shrink so you have a soldering iron and heat gun in one!

  9. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolekos View Post
    Is there a similar accessory (if yes what it the part number and where from it can be bought) availbale for the R1150GS?


    Cheers!
    Anyone care to post a solution for 1150GS?

  10. #42
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    Earthing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    Here you are everyone, courtesy of Gunsmoke's website. He uses a 12 volt terminal block (Red positive + and Black negative -) which is itself unfused, relying on the Canbus to make the fuse for him. You could use a Centec fuse box just as well.



    I will also take the liberty of repeating Gunsmoke's advice on the relays:

    ........ is the relay that switches power to the terminal blocks. I had a small Bosch component (Bosch part no. 0 332 011 007) I which is very small as relays go. I chose to label the wires going to the relay so that I could figure out what went where later. The relay pin layout and schematic are shown below.





    As shown in the schematic, the leads that used to connect to the auxiliary power socket now connect to pins 1 and 2 on the relay. The fused power lead from the auxiliary power socket itself connects to pin 3, with a wire running from pin 5 going to the 12 V terminal strip.

    Here is a link to some really good information on installing relays, again prompted by Gunsmoke (to whom I remain endebted etc. etc. etc,)
    Relays You will notice that the site prompts you to take power from the diagnostic plug. This makes it complicated in my opinion and brings people back to the fear (quite understandable) of doing something irreversible to damage their bike. Using a splitter from the aux. socket avoids this concern completely, simply as it leaves all the bike's loom wiring completely untouched and is completely reversible in just two minutes, I promise.

    If anyone is nervous of relays, don't be. Just think of them as automatic switches, that only turn on (by magic) when conditions are right. Just take a bit of time working out which pin is which and all will be well. Any good High Street auto-electrical shop will tell you, for sure.

    Here is a link to how relays work: It's (not quite) magic

    I hope the whole thread is useful and will give anyone the confidence to give it a go.


    PS For what it's worth I prefer the BlueSea fuse boxes to Centec's. BlueSea Their Terminal blocks are neat, too http://bluesea.com/category/9/36/productline/190

    The earth leads are shown as returning to the battery. My question is: Does the earth wire have to go back to the battery itself, or can they be earthed throught the framework by attaching it to, for example, a convenient stud or bolt near to the accessory. Have done a fair bit of relayed stuff on cars in the past but the whole Canbus thing makes me paranoid about getting the wiring right.
    My RT handbook says max 10Amp for the outlet sockets,(combined presumably, not individually if you have more than one aux).

  11. #43
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    You can use the frame or the battery.

  12. #44
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    Plug the splitter back into the socket your now left with a free leg..



    Strip the cable back slip on some heat sleeving and i choose to attach some bullet crimps.(only had the red ones the slighter bigger blue would be better)







    You are now left with a switched live and neutral, choose to do what you wish with, wire in a relay or just plug an autocom in direct like i did..





    Id recommend for anyone the wireless soldering iron kit you can get from maplins,



    You can change the tips on it for different purposes but what i like best is one of the tips turns it into a blow gun for using on the heat shrink so you have a soldering iron and heat gun in one! [/QUOTE]



    This might be daft, but looking through this great post again

    http://ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180464&page=3

    it seems that after the spare plug is cut off there are 4 wires. My current aux has only 2 wires, so surely a splitter would also only have 2 per channel (if thats the right word?), IOW 2 wires to original and 2 to connect to whatever you want now, but 2 pairs are shown. Am I missing something?

  13. #45
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    The power at the Aux socket remains live for approx 15 mins after the ignition has been switched off. Now, if you decide to take a spur off the aux socket to power an Autocom with a bluetooth dongle for you phone then it will remain actively connect via the bluethooth unless you switch off the connection via your phone.

    A bit of a pain in the ass if someone phones you when your off the bike and your helmet is put away in the cupboard, cause the dongle will automatically answer the incoming call.

    I find the best way to have additional aux power is to use a relay and a switched live from the ignition. That way when you switch off the ignition you kill the power to the new aux sockets.

    From the Manual
    In order
    to ensure that the drain on the
    on-board power supply system
    is minimised, the supply to the
    power socket is cut off approximately
    15 minutes after the ignition
    is switched off,

  14. #46
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    Sometimes you may want to use the accessory socket with the ignition off - for things like a chargers, compressor, camping stuff, lights etc. If you want to do this I recommend using a seperate fuse block which has both switched and unswitched outputs. I have one such device supplied by Jim Davis of Eastern Beaver (great products and not expensive for what you get) - it has 6 switched and 2 unswitched outputs complete with corresponding earths. In my case, I completely disconnected the OEM accessory socket under the seat and replaced it with a Powerlet socket and wired it direct to an unswitched output of the fuseblock so I can use it regardless of the ignition. I then have the other stuff such as GPS power, heated clothing, spot lamps etc connected to the switched outputs so they only work with the ignition on. Works well for me.

  15. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beemerman59 View Post
    Sometimes you may want to use the accessory socket with the ignition off - for things like a chargers, compressor, camping stuff, lights etc. If you want to do this I recommend using a seperate fuse block which has both switched and unswitched outputs. I have one such device supplied by Jim Davis of Eastern Beaver (great products and not expensive for what you get) - it has 6 switched and 2 unswitched outputs complete with corresponding earths. In my case, I completely disconnected the OEM accessory socket under the seat and replaced it with a Powerlet socket and wired it direct to an unswitched output of the fuseblock so I can use it regardless of the ignition. I then have the other stuff such as GPS power, heated clothing, spot lamps etc connected to the switched outputs so they only work with the ignition on. Works well for me.

    Cool, I left the OEM socket alone and wired two new aux sockets from the battery using a relay and a switched +12 V that way I have the best of both worlds.

    Just mentioned it because a little forward thinking might be required before tapping into the OEM socket.

  16. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Ravenbyrne View Post
    The power at the Aux socket remains live for approx 15 mins after the ignition has been switched off. Now, if you decide to take a spur off the aux socket to power an Autocom with a bluetooth dongle for you phone then it will remain actively connect via the bluethooth unless you switch off the connection via your phone.

    A bit of a pain in the ass if someone phones you when your off the bike and your helmet is put away in the cupboard, cause the dongle will automatically answer the incoming call.

    I find the best way to have additional aux power is to use a relay and a switched live from the ignition. That way when you switch off the ignition you kill the power to the new aux sockets.

    From the Manual
    In order
    to ensure that the drain on the
    on-board power supply system
    is minimised, the supply to the
    power socket is cut off approximately
    15 minutes after the ignition
    is switched off,
    The book may say this but the reality is that it's approximately 30-40 seconds.

    If the key is left in the ignition barrel when the bike is switched off the computer senses the key's presence and leaves the cab bus on stand by for as long at 15 minutes.

    Switch the bike off and once the ket is more than about 6ft from the bike the can bus shuts down within about 30-40 seconds


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