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Thread: Switched power - The easy way

  1. #49
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    Switched Power the Easy-way






    sorry couldn't resist

  2. #50
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    Can confirm the timings after a little experimentation.

    And also splitter cable 61 13 2 316 621 fitted my 2007 GS. Interestingly it doesn't seem to be listed as a GS part, but works a treat, and makes my autocom easily demountable.

  3. #51
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    Great info guys, made fitting my intercom very easy. Thanks

  4. #52
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    Numpty with technical gear

    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    Here is the Baron's lead in all its glory.

    He tells me the lead is over a meter long....

    The sockets look totally different, too.

    Any chance of a picture of socket under the seat, I can't seem to find it on mine. Thanks, and great tip!

  5. #53
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    Which bike do you own and where, under the seat, are you looking?

  6. #54
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    Can you buy the splitter plug on its own ??? as I may be looking for one for my 2011 twin cam, is this correct number from my bike 61 12 7 712 581

  7. #55
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    Looking at adding a PDM60 to my 2014 GSA when it arrives.where is the most suitable place to trigger the PDM60 from using a switched live? Looking at having PDM under seat with autocom. Thank you.

  8. #56
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    Any switched power supply will do, for instance the rear light feed.

    If you wanted to avoid chopping into any wires, have a look at this: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/elect...ph-motorcycles

    It really is plug-and-play; nicely made, too.

  9. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    Any switched power supply will do, for instance the rear light feed.

    If you wanted to avoid chopping into any wires, have a look at this: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/elect...ph-motorcycles

    It really is plug-and-play; nicely made, too.
    Not sure the rear light feed will trigger the PDM60.

    My understanding is that the rear light feed is not 12v but I could be wrong.

    There is a suitably place trigger source just behind the tank which is approx 50mm from where the PDM60 can be sited.

  10. #58
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    I am not sure that the trigger needs to be 12 volts. The trigger only requires a positive voltage signal, nothing more.

    It's current draw is minimal, less tan 1/1000 of an amp. I think just about anything will do it.

    Bods seem to use all sorts of triggers, amongst the most popular seems to be a feed from the diagnostic hub. A search of 'PDM 60 trigger' turns up loads of suggestions.

  11. #59
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    Thanks all for replies.

  12. #60
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    I used the feed to the aux socket left side under seat to trigger my PDM 60. Easy peasy.

  13. #61
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    I used the advice below. All fitted now Autocom coming and jacket heating SWMBO.


    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928394

  14. #62
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    I have read this post with interest, having had problems with a USB lead I had connected through my Centec fuse panel. Although it took me a while to discover that said USB lead draws power even when not in use and was, over a couple of weeks killing the battery. So I have now purchased the lead part no, 61 12 7 712 581 and im going to fit a relay between the battery and fuse panel to make the whole panel switched. This should cure the problem. Ta for the info peeps. Del

  15. #63
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    A lot of devices and / or leads draw power, even when 'off' particularly when they are not off at all but in 'sleep' mode.

    A properly switched supply or a relay will sort it out.

  16. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    A lot of devices and / or leads draw power, even when 'off' particularly when they are not off at all but in 'sleep' mode.

    A properly switched supply or a relay will sort it out.
    Yup, I found that out the hard way and blamed the battery for the problem and it wasn't. OK I have had to pay £29 for a proper lead but its plug and play with no cutting of the harness. Ta, Del

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