Lots of people ask for any easy way to get switched power on a 1200GS, for powering an Autocom, Centec fuse box or anything similar. Following assorted threads on the internet I tripped over this little beauty:
It is a BuMW splitter. It clips, very simply, behind the standard auxillary power socket (nearside, beneath the seat) on a 1200 GS. I helped ChasMill of this parish install one yesterday.
METHOD
(1) Unclip the power lead plug from the rear of the auxiliary plug. The catch is disengaged by pressing the sides of the plug.
(2) Clip the splitter into the rear of the auxiliary socket.
(3) Clip the power lead into one of the two sockets of the splitter.
BINGO! Power is flowing back into the auxiliary socket, via the splitter. You have now have one spare power outlet available and you know how it slots together.
NOW THE DIY BIT.
(a) Unclip the splitter.
(b) Like the splitter in the picture, ChasMill's splitter came with the leads bound together with tape. Free them. Also remove BuMW's labels, they only get in the way.
(b) Neatly cut off one of the spare sockets, right against the plug, leaving yourself plenty of wire. You can undo the plug itself by simply levering the retaining lugs away with a fine blade screwdriver, if you want to.
(c) Strip back about 3/4 of an inch of the plastic sheath, exposing the bare wires.
(d) The red and white wire is positive (+). The brown wire is negative (-).
(e) Solder suitable lengths of wire to extend the leads. Shrink wrap for good measure.
(f) Here is an excellent guide how to solder wires neatly:
Soldering
And an excellent guide on joining wires and heatshrinking:
Join and heatshrink
(g) Connect the extended power lead to whatever device you wish to power. In ChasMill's case it was a Centec fuse box.
(h) Reinstall the splitter (see 1, 2 and 3 above).
(i) Job done. The splitter is a BuMW part, so it fits together perfectly. No need to worry about upsetting the Canbus. No need to cut into any of the bike's wires at all. No need for nasty clips, joins and sticky tape. Very easy to remove or replace if you have a problem, returning the bike to standard takes two minutes.
TINTS AND HIPS:
As the splitter simply taps into the bike's switched auxiliary socket it will still be limited to a maximum draw of 5 amps.
Make the length of the extended leads longer than you will need them. It is definitely easier to cut wire off later, than to desolder and start again.
ChasMill ordered the splitter from SLM. I think it arived on his doorstep within 48 hours. The parts bloke had never heard of anyone ordering one before.
As it's a standard BuMW part it should be easy to order from any BuMW motorbike or car dealership.
It is a BuMW splitter. It clips, very simply, behind the standard auxillary power socket (nearside, beneath the seat) on a 1200 GS. I helped ChasMill of this parish install one yesterday.
METHOD
(1) Unclip the power lead plug from the rear of the auxiliary plug. The catch is disengaged by pressing the sides of the plug.
(2) Clip the splitter into the rear of the auxiliary socket.
(3) Clip the power lead into one of the two sockets of the splitter.
BINGO! Power is flowing back into the auxiliary socket, via the splitter. You have now have one spare power outlet available and you know how it slots together.
NOW THE DIY BIT.
(a) Unclip the splitter.
(b) Like the splitter in the picture, ChasMill's splitter came with the leads bound together with tape. Free them. Also remove BuMW's labels, they only get in the way.
(b) Neatly cut off one of the spare sockets, right against the plug, leaving yourself plenty of wire. You can undo the plug itself by simply levering the retaining lugs away with a fine blade screwdriver, if you want to.
(c) Strip back about 3/4 of an inch of the plastic sheath, exposing the bare wires.
(d) The red and white wire is positive (+). The brown wire is negative (-).
(e) Solder suitable lengths of wire to extend the leads. Shrink wrap for good measure.
(f) Here is an excellent guide how to solder wires neatly:
Soldering
And an excellent guide on joining wires and heatshrinking:
Join and heatshrink
(g) Connect the extended power lead to whatever device you wish to power. In ChasMill's case it was a Centec fuse box.
(h) Reinstall the splitter (see 1, 2 and 3 above).
(i) Job done. The splitter is a BuMW part, so it fits together perfectly. No need to worry about upsetting the Canbus. No need to cut into any of the bike's wires at all. No need for nasty clips, joins and sticky tape. Very easy to remove or replace if you have a problem, returning the bike to standard takes two minutes.
TINTS AND HIPS:
As the splitter simply taps into the bike's switched auxiliary socket it will still be limited to a maximum draw of 5 amps.
Make the length of the extended leads longer than you will need them. It is definitely easier to cut wire off later, than to desolder and start again.
ChasMill ordered the splitter from SLM. I think it arived on his doorstep within 48 hours. The parts bloke had never heard of anyone ordering one before.
As it's a standard BuMW part it should be easy to order from any BuMW motorbike or car dealership.