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Thread: 04/05 Flange defect, take note

  1. #33
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    Thanks for that, appreciated.

    How much will the new flange set us back?

  2. #34
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    Good job mate. Hopefully it'll be a permanent fix.

  3. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR View Post
    ....How much will the new flange set us back?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pukmeister View Post
    ........Either way, a new (improved?) flange should sort it for £133 and I'm care-free once more.

    Bagsey £133

  4. #36
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    Not forgetting the 38 pence.
    ADAM


    2008 R1200GSA
    1999 Yamaha 4XV R1

  5. #37
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    Also forgot, a new set of five brake disk mounting screws costs £4 inc Vat (and they are supplied with a dry film of loctite pre-applied) so not worth re-using the old screws.
    ADAM


    2008 R1200GSA
    1999 Yamaha 4XV R1

  6. #38
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    I reckon those fractures were caused by the expansion of the disc with the heat generated from brakeing. The expansion of the disk has pulled on the bolts and the bolts have caused those fractures. Heat values are incompatable. Just my humble opinion.
    Tis better to have loved a short girl than to have never loved atall.

  7. #39
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    You're probably right Billy, I rode on a warped rear disk for over a year as it had warped whilst outside warranty and as a disk is a consumable item I didn't persue a goodwill gesture. I then fitted a Galfer Wavy disk because:

    a) They're cheaper than the stock item
    b) They're meant to be better at avoiding distortion and cool better
    c) They are thicker than the stock item
    d) The stock item wears down quickly
    e) I prefer the look

    Maybe the old disk had warped and caused the cracking and I just didn't notice when I changed the disks? Maybe the cracking happened first and allowed the disk to warp? All speculation I'm afraid with no evidence to hand.

    The disk screws are shouldered and fit into a recess in the disk mounting face, once tightened the disk is rigidly mounted but the disk and flange are of different materials with different expansion rates.
    ADAM


    2008 R1200GSA
    1999 Yamaha 4XV R1

  8. #40
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    I took Ugly Betty for her MOT this morning but didn't mention anything.

    Only after it passed I pointed out I have a crack on one hole on my disc carrier.

    My man Roy Gardner has ordered the bits in: new carrier & disc bolts, £186 replaced.

    He's told me stories of some carriers taking ages to get off - I'll be watching him take mine off!

  9. #41
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    I've put together a FAQ/'How to' on this compiling all the info found here and elsewhere, some RepRom info plus Adam's ('Pukmeister' ......thanks again :-)) 'how to' on diy flange replacement:

    All you need to know:
    BMW R1200 / R1200GS Rear Wheel Carrier / Brake Disk Flange


    ....give me a shout if I've missed anything!

  10. #42
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    Hi, new here and new to these bikes, do you think this cracking problem could be caused by the thread not being fully tapped thru on the reverse side? Because the thread is not cut to full depth when you screw the bolt in its like screwing a parrallel thread into a tapperd thread and this would cause a 'swelling or expanding effect on the lug, this would be compounded when the brake disc would be cooling down as the aluminium hub would cool quicker and clamp on to the thread causing further stress? Do you have a photo of the reverse side of the lug showing if it is a full thread all the way through, as one that ive looked at was not tapped full thread all the way through, the thread started to tapper in about 3mm short?. As I said new to these bikes and trying to prevent/cure any known problems I may come across.

  11. #43
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    2004 (registered 2005) 1200GS with less than 18000m under it's wheels.




  12. #44
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    Checked mine today,

    2004 with 17.9k on the clock and nothing wrong with them FYI.

    Sorry to hear youre's are not mate.

  13. #45
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    Expensive Paperweight

    Wheel off, caliper off, disc off, circlip off.

    Heatgun for a few minutes, tap off.

    Heat new flange, tap on, rebuild with new disc bolts.

    30 minutes.




  14. #46
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    I take it my use of a 3-legged gear puller was unnecessary then and a simple hammer would have sufficed ?

    I had to keep applying heat to keep mine sliding off the drive splines, if I stopped heating it would instantly cool and start to shrink back onto them.

    Glad you got yours fixed, and easy enough DIY job and like you say, an expensive paperweight.
    ADAM


    2008 R1200GSA
    1999 Yamaha 4XV R1

  15. #47
    spyke60
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    Spyke60

    Thanks for the info on the cracked flange. I had a bit of a look while changing and fitting a new disc. Had another good look and behold, cracked lugs. I am also in the aircraft trade so am particular about torque loadings.
    So it is interesting to see there has been a few other similar problems. i would put down to the casting. As a matter of interest when you fittrd your nrw flange did you use any anti seize of sorts

    Keep the rubber down





    Quote Originally Posted by Pukmeister View Post
    Perhaps, but I'm pretty sure I would have noticed it. My guess is brittle fracture but as I don't have access to a scanning electron microscope I can't prove it. The profile of the component has no obvious stress raisers and the two cracks have propagated along differing paths.

    BMWRich58, I've been an Engineering Technician since 1982. I've worked on Gas Turbines and reciprocating diesels the size of a house and costing millions. I think I can be trusted to safely tighten a fastener or two on a motorbike. Of course I used a torque wrench and followed the instructions in the RepRom, I'm not stupid.

    My local dealer has never seen/heard of this happening and took a look out of interest. Eyebrows were raised as the same flange is fitted to the entire R1200 range plus the K1200 model range. They asked if Michnus's bike had the stock disk and pads as mine are non-OEM.

    They advised me to contact BMW customer services as a goodwill gesture is unlikely. I simply bit the bullet and ordered a replacement 'flange' under the new part number of C33.11.7.699.631 for £115.99+vat (£133.38) as the old part is no longer available ( I wonder why??).

    Pity really as I am unemployed again at present so could do without the (unexpected) expense but my bike is my sole means of transport. No doubt pulling the flange from the splined rear hub will cause me some more headaches. Probably gonna need to put the FD in the freezer for a bit, then get the turbotorch out.

  16. #48
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    Great, thanks. Another bloody thing to check before setting off on my wibbly wobbly trip in 2 weeks. I've always subscribed to the concept of the three wise monkeys but now you've got me worrying. Thanks, I guess.






    Oi! Where's the f*cking hammer!?

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