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Thread: ...LOOKING FOR ADVENTURE...

  1. #17
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    With Bill leading the way we continued down out of the Gorge, past last night’s hotel in Ait-Youl and turned left on to the N10 towards Tinerhir. We were just about to leave the outskirts of Boumalne Dades when a policeman pulls Bill over for speeding. As any travelling companion would do in a situation like this I left him to it, stopping about 300m further on. Bill had told me that Moroccan police often supplement their income from speeding fines but on this occasion he thought he was probably genuine so paid up grudgingly and went on his way.

    On arriving in Tinerhir, we headed for the hotel near the centre of town. Now Bill had told me that l would really like this hotel so you can imagine my surprise when we parked by a dark doorway between two shops. Entering through a long murky corridor and up some steps, l thought that Bill had seriously misjudged my taste in hotels, but on turning left through a doorway we entered the courtyard of a beautifully refurbished Riad, definitely the best hotel we had stayed in yet. On numerous occasions on this trip l had been surprised by the lavish courtyards of fountains and palm trees, that were behind often very unassuming simple rustic doors.

    We unloaded everyone’s luggage from the Landcruiser, left my bike in the car park and drove out of town towards the Todra Gorge. It had been some time since we last spoke to the others, so it was decided that we would drive up the Gorge to meet them. By the time we got to the beginning of the piste it had been dark for some time and there was no sign of the others not even headlights in the distance.
    There was nothing to be gained by staying there, so we continued back down until we got a mobile signal and at last we were speaking to the others. There had been problems which meant that they had to abandon the piste and head back down Dades Gorge and follow the tarmac route that we had taken earlier.

    These are their pictures (didn’t think it looked that bad).







    Well there is Chris's bike



    I admire his persistance, but without the bike it's not the same.



    It was not going to be a good day for Gary.






  2. #18
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    DAY 6, SATURDAY 29TH NOVEMBER
    TINERHIR- ZAGORA
    Today is going to be fast piste's across the plains and mountain trails, but not for me. My bike was going on the trailer and l was going in the Landcruiser with Bill (no reflection on Bill) on tarmac roads to Zagora, not the day l had wanted.
    Anyway walking into the restaurant for breakfast, Bill asked if l wanted to ride today, of course l would who wouldn't, well Gary actually said Bill. He wanted to rest up for the day in the Landcruiser and the rental Kalahari was going begging. I thought about this for one second and grabbed the keys and went back to my room to get changed. Hoorah.
    With my rather sad looking, leaking KTM on the the trailer providing photo opportunities for the chuckeling BMW fraternity, l looked over my wheels for the day which now looked rather sad.
    With one of its handlebar mirrors missing and a front left indicator dangling down and swaying in the morning breeze, l swung my leg over the seat, sat down and found out that without motocross boots on, l probably would have just fractured both my shins on engine bars. But lets not worry about that l was on two wheels (just) not four and riding again.



    Doesn't that view look great, I don't think l was the only one but sometimes you just stand and look. Must be my sensitive side.



    We stopped after an hour or so for water and cigarettes. Looks as though Wayne was after more than that, never realised he was left handed.



    I do like Tims bike.





    I think we all did a lot of looking that morning.





    We were riding up the north side of the mountain that was still in shade, this meant that the heavily rutted tracks were iced over and covered in snow. I was finding it impossible to get any grip from the rear tyre which kept wanting to slide out to the right with just the slightest touch of throttle.

    Lack of experience or strange bike or both l was just not making progress on this surface and was probably looking a bit pissed off when Tim rode back to find me (how does he make it look so easy?). He said that there was only another couple of kilometres to go and when l get to the top it will all be worth it, that man ever said a truer word.



    When we pulled up at this cafe a young couple with two small children came out to welcome us and they looked so happy. In about 20 minutes they had made us coffee, fresh hot bread and ommlettes absolutely delicious. Whether it was the arduous (for me) trip to the top, the mountain views or the family that had built this cafe themselves on top of a mountain or the peacefulness but this place was something special.







    What amazed me was that whatever direction you looked there were mountains as far as you could see. Perhaps l should get out more often.


  3. #19
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    Being south facing the piste down from the cafe was free of ice and snow, although easier l could never relax with loose gravel and rock on bends and a few hundred metre drop if you got it wrong.
    I was even getting a bit of a soft spot for Gary's Kalahari especially on the slow technical bits.

    The picture below is of Dave's GSA.





    We finished the piste in Nekob and stopped there for coffee and fuel before moving on to pick up the N9 for Zagora, with still a long way to go that day before we got to stop for the night.
    By the time we reached the hotel it had been dark for about two hours, with the last part being particulary difficult due to pedestrians, horse and carts, mopeds and bicycle without any lights the worst being small children running out to wave at the bikes going past completely unaware that you couldn't see them, very frightening.
    The hotels seem to get better every night with this one having a spectacular courtyard with palm tree's, fountains a swimming pool and more importantly a outdoor bar with plenty of cold beers.

  4. #20
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    DAY 7, SUNDAY 30TH NOVEMBER
    ZAGORA
    After breakfast we all rode down to Mohamed's workshop as most of us needed something doing even it was just some fettling. I think Gary and Dave both had new rear tyres fitted, Tim was working on his electrics, Wayne had lost most of his front muguard so got a couple of the young lads there to screw what was left to the underside of his fairing. I think Tony's bike was the only one not requiring any work, although l could be wrong.





    This was like a shrine to desert rallying with pictures of the riders and drivers who had stopped there for repairs.



    The good news for me was that the fork seals had arrived on the Saturday and were ready to be fitted, the only problem was that having arrived at 9am as requested, Mohamed was yet to arrive to do the work. In his absence the young lads started to strip the forks out of the yokes at which point l was beginning to get a bit concerned, but in all fairness they seemed to know what they were doing.
    About an hour or so later the man himself arrived, giving instructions to the youngest for tea to be made for everyone. Then he disappeared into the darkness with both fork legs. Now the clever bit, how can he take one set of fork seals and make two sets out of them.



    Wayne thought this was very funny and to be honest l did as well.
    So Rule 3 never lose your sense of humour.



    Apart from me and my bike everyone was ready to ride, Tim and Chris rode down to Mhamid to play in the sand dunes.



    All credit to him, Chris is a natural off-road biker, out of all of us he is the only one who has kept up with Tim.



    I know a lot of you will have already seen this photo of Tim before but it's brilliant.





    Wayne, Dave, Gary and Tony went to ride through the palmery






    You are never for away from some great scenery.





    As Bill and l were still waiting for the bike to be finished it seemed a good time to go of and eat followed by a bit of tourist shopping.

    When we got back the bike was finished. How he completed the work with only one set l don't know, but 6 months on and they are still not leaking.

    For those of you who have a 950 or 990 Adventure, the general feeling was that l hadn't vented the forks often enough, allowing the pressure to build up and blowing the seals. So l have now fitted small valves in place of the venting screw on top of the forks which are a lot quicker to use by just pushing the rubber bulb on top.
    But the advice l am now receiving is that dust and grit had got past the dust seal damaging the oil seal's. The only way to stop this is by fitting neoprene socks which cover the exposed dust seal housing and part of the fork slider therefore stopping the dust and grit more effectively so l am told.

  5. #21
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    Jalfrezi, this is an excellent report! Your photographs are superb, and the commentary is marvellous. No more though, because I really really want to go back!

  6. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JALFREZI View Post
    For those of you who have a 950 or 990 Adventure, the general feeling was that l hadn't vented the forks often enough, allowing the pressure to build up and blowing the seals. So l have now fitted small valves in place of the venting screw on top of the forks which are a lot quicker to use by just pushing the rubber bulb on top.
    But the advice l am now receiving is that dust and grit had got past the dust seal damaging the oil seal's. The only way to stop this is by fitting neoprene socks which cover the exposed dust seal housing and part of the fork slider therefore stopping the dust and grit more effectively so l am told.
    Don't blame yourself for that Nick- we went from sea level to a smidgin under 10,000 feet on that trip, and although there's a fair drop in pressure over those sort of vertical distances, we've had fork seals go on the 950's and 990's on the second or third day before we've hit altitude as well....I think the dust ingress is a sound theory, but the fact is that the KTM fork seals don't appear to be very effective and do blow frequently , possibly compounded by some highish altitude pressure changes.

    We carry a set of seals with us now anyway, so the lesson has been learnt from the 2 out of 3 KTM's we've had with blown seals this year on trips .

    Fantastic photos from this trip as well.....some of the best yet I think

    Keep it coming
    सत्यमेव जयते


  7. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidHale View Post
    Jalfrezi, this is an excellent report! Your photographs are superb, and the commentary is marvellous. No more though, because I really really want to go back!
    Thanks David, but what l will acknowledge at the end of the thread, is my appreciation to all the others on the ride that agreed to share their photo's otherwise this would not have been possible.
    You are right, the photographs are superb.

  8. #24
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    Unhappy Bugger

    I'm off down to Clarks to look at a 'girly' 800

  9. #25
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    Back at the hotel and time for a beer, can there be a nicer place to spend the evening.





    DAY 8, MONDAY 1ST DECEMBER
    ZAGORA TO FOUM-ZGUID
    After 2 days without my KTM l was really looking forward to todays ride across the plains with fast graded piste's and rock and gravel strewn piste's.



    But first the compulsory photo shoot by the wall.



    We were all riding faster and more confidently now, with the feeling that the bike was part of you and all you had to do was look ahead at what was coming and let the bike take care of itself. Completely relaxed as the front and rear of the bike was moving about in different directions on the soft surfaces.
    A few days ago the this would have felt completely different with clenched cheeks and gripping the bars for dear life thinking l was going to die






  10. #26
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    This was becoming the best day of the trip, standing on the pegs at 80mph on the graded piste's was brilliant. For years l had watched the Dakar on television as the riders were racing across the plains at over 120mph with the plumes of dust kicked up behind them hoping one day l could do the same.

    Then came soft sand and l was back to Day 1.



    We stayed here for a while practicing, the advice was to accelerate through it and don't back off. Which was the opposite of what my brain was telling me, but it worked, perhaps not straight away though.



    I think that Gary was the first to tumble, but this is Dave.
    Always nice when you have spectators.



    Um, this was Dave again.
    This is a bit unfair as we all had our moments but not with a camera around to record it.



    This was Gary who took a nasty tumble at around 50mph or so.
    I think this winded him a bit as he decided the best thing would be to put the Kalahari on the trailer and travel with Bill.



    Although Wayne may appear to have a fine arse, l am surprised that Bill has decided to bite it.
    Looks like Gary might now be a bit concerned about travelling on his own with Bill in the Landcruiser, best turn the heated seats down.



    Where is Gary's head!!!!



    Great fun.


  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JALFREZI View Post
    Um, this was Dave again.
    This is a bit unfair as we all had our moments but not with a camera around to record it.

    LOL. Actually that photo looks more dramatic than it really was. I was just stepping off it as it had come to rest on it's cylinder head and was going no further over from that point.

    Also - I knew I shouldn't have lent Bill my camera!!!

  12. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JALFREZI View Post
    This was Gary who took a nasty tumble at around 50mph or so.
    I think this winded him a bit as he decided the best thing would be to put the Kalahari on the trailer and travel with Bill.

    That was a scary moment. I spotted the soft patch that Chris had gone through and, discretion being the better part of valour (and knowing my own ability) came to a stop before deciding what path to take. Gary, I think, decided to go for it and all I heard was an odd skidding noise followed by the kalahari going past my right side, bucking and weaving, before it dug in on it's side and threw Gary about 5 metres forward. I saw him hit the deck and do an odd sort of forward role (9/10 for style!) ending up a considerable way away from the bike

  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ragnar View Post
    That was a scary moment. I spotted the soft patch that Chris had gone through and, discretion being the better part of valour (and knowing my own ability) came to a stop before deciding what path to take. Gary, I think, decided to go for it and all I heard was an odd skidding noise followed by the kalahari going past my right side, bucking and weaving, before it dug in on it's side and threw Gary about 5 metres forward. I saw him hit the deck and do an odd sort of forward role (9/10 for style!) ending up a considerable way away from the bike
    He did fly rather well didn't he!

    The advice on attacking sand was heard, but rather than 'slow down on approach, sit back, let the bars do their thing and steer with the weight on the pegs while keeping the power on or the front will dig in' it somehow became 'crank it up to full speed and attack the sand'

    This was his front wheel track into that patch
    Oh Gary

    सत्यमेव जयते


  14. #30
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    great report

    hi guys,

    bringing back lots of good memories of a fantastic trip with great people.............

    keep it coming....

    Wayne

    i do have a nice arse

  15. #31
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    soz

    just realised ya all notice by my piccy that i swopped the strom for something else....................................

  16. #32
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    Click here to find out how to remove these ads

    Does this look like a picture from Reservior Dogs?
    No your right, it doesn't.
    High Plains Drifter, no.
    The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, no.



    Please note that little pile of rocks denotes road closed. Not a plastic cone in sight.





    Tim followed by Chris, as usual.



    Me sitting down, what is all that standing up about?



    Gary in his role as sweeper.





    As you will have seen earlier, Bill had strayed from the tarmac to join us on the piste's today in case we needed help.
    Nothing to do with having a big petrol engined 4x4 and power sliding then?
    After a while we noticed that Bill wasn't behind us.... No that's absolute cobblers, we were having so much fun that we couldn't be bothered to look behind us.
    When we did eventually stop, Tim turned round and rode back, about 10minute's later, nothing heard so Wayne rode off.
    After about half an hour we were thinking the worse, yes another day without lunch.

    After another half an hour under the relentless sun, we began to think that this was becoming serious and so we crouched down in the shadows of our bikes.
    Protecting our camelbaks, not sure how much water we have left in them, trying to stay awake so that no one would ....
    Sorry about that, l was forced to watch 'Ice Cold In Alex' as a child.

    Anyway they turned up in the end and looks like Bill had a bit of a blow out.



    Tim on the KTM, l think he rather enjoyed that.


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