On leaving Mexican Hat there is a diversion that is well worth making - not just because of the majesty of the landscapes it takes you through - but because it gets you back into feeling a bit more "adventurous"...
For the first time since The Cassiar Highway over a month previously, The Warrior and I were back on dirt roads… And we loved it…
Although they were relatively straightforward, it felt good to be able to turn off the tarmac and to go exploring…
Our first off road sortie was to follow the Valley Of The Gods road, just out side Mexican Hat. It is a 17 mile loop that winds itself through a “smaller version of Monument Valley”.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bn5H8Y4hcGf9ljqU0Bou9g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZwYLG-BI/AAAAAAAADYM/kOQJTSJWv40/s800/P1020824%20edit.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U85liCdiwxTjAmB3gHI8oQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uYtSYqIgI/AAAAAAAADXg/6hC6etOKlCw/s800/PICT0075%20edit.jpg" /></a>
The scenery was just as splendid as Monument Valley and the isolation was wonderful. We had one motorcycle approach and pass us from the other direction and 2 4x4s in the entire loop. Other than that we were out among the rock structures all on our own – with no human sounds or signs to be detected. It was brilliant.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IDsRU9AEKtoN2AubQCQ_DQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZRW_MZBI/AAAAAAAADX4/LpNPycvoo2g/s800/P1020830.JPG" /></a>
We then headed towards the escarpment on Highway 261. A road I had been looking forward to all trip – as this road turns to dirt as it climbs the side of the escarpment to the top of the plateau through a series of hairpin bends and switchbacks…
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yKqXFGenrL-Wt1CMlNvTCA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uY0G49cyI/AAAAAAAADXk/0BBir5P9S2A/s800/PICT0086%20edit.jpg" /></a>
Known as The Moki Dugway it had fascinated me for quite a while. It was apparently constructed in 1958 by Texas Zinc, a mining company, to transport uranium ore from the "Happy Jack" mine in Fry Canyon, UT to the processing mill in Mexican Hat. The three miles of unpaved, but well graded, switchbacks climbs 1,100 feet to the top of Cedar Mesa.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xySIV82JvBfnOZzmN6gf5w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uY69r5J1I/AAAAAAAADXo/wg0vxPOMeQs/s800/PICT0096%20edit.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jrc6RpTCMRt9lYtgNz_zCg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZBGepayI/AAAAAAAADXs/5SE2OtqZH3g/s800/PICT0132%20edit.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MrXITJK7Zv65YXGwv8h6Xw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZHWIg0XI/AAAAAAAADXw/BdF8yq1zVAs/s800/PICT0155%20edit.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kvQXlQ2nxTI1vHrTpi1Trg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZN9a1hmI/AAAAAAAADX0/r28qVLEZKv0/s800/PICT0160%20edit.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vabk2OOrE5PmIxKt-R0wFg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZrbM9lEI/AAAAAAAADYE/CHFa75nZB5s/s800/moki-20050903-1193m%20edit.jpg" /></a>
At the top we took another dirt road for a diversion along Muley Point Road to a point that overlooks Glen Canyon from 1,100 feet. It was worth the drive.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AALBuwENqknocUL9YqyKTA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uZ4T6Z3lI/AAAAAAAADYU/XHFtbNhELvc/s800/P1020832%20edit.jpg" /></a>
Thereafter, we were back to the world of tarmac as we followed Highway 261 to Natural Bridges National Monument.
The area has 3 rather grand “Natural Bridges” within it, visible from a 9 mile circular loop. Well, I say visible… From the view points it is possible to see the bridges, but it is difficult to discern them clearly against the backdrop… I’m not sure that the photos did them justice…
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bEgBVCdAd2hakG1dvu6DOw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uaBdFUseI/AAAAAAAADYY/q2HLEMgUJfA/s800/P1020852%20edit.jpg" /></a>
On returning to the Visitor’s Centre I was hot and had my mind on other things as I prepared myself and Warrior for a departure to Cortez. I’d put the old boy on his centre stand when I arrived so I could check his oil on level ground.
But when it came to bumping him off the centre stand – a manoeuvre I have done many times – I couldn’t shift him… I’d lost either my strength or my technique !! So, I braced myself and gave a big heave and off he plopped… Fantastic… Apart from the fact I must have put my right foot under the path of the rear wheel as I “made myself ready” for the big heave…
So down he came and rolled against my foot. And then promptly overbalanced to the right this time !!
I was so mad with myself I had him back upright fully laden in seconds !! Surprised myself !! As I said once before, it is amazing what strength you can summon when you are “pumped up” !!
Thereafter, we rode hard to Monticello and thence to Cortez. Pleasant enough – but after what had gone before it was not as spectacular.
We'd put Cortez on the list as we wanted to see Mesa Verde - a beautiful and fascinating park. Unlike all other parks that we had visited, this one wasn’t all about the scenery and geology. Although the landscape was dramatic and the views far reaching, Mesa Verde’s prime offering is a glimpse into an ancient and special culture of North America.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aDbkmhWZQRhJ1TH8f7mlGg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uaESnp3GI/AAAAAAAADYc/vOfPM-X3gAg/s800/P1020855%20edit.jpg" /></a>
In fact, it is such a special insight to this particular aspect of North American history that the park is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was
established on June 29, 1906, by President Theodore Roosevelt to "preserve the works of man," the first national park of its kind.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/avf5QNtTniEjyI3hzNJO4A?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4udRFdywOI/AAAAAAAADZE/OG61jZJlCaE/s800/P1020859%20edit.jpg" /></a>
So what is it preserving ? About 1,400 years ago, long before Europeans explored North America, a group of people living in the Four Corners region chose Mesa Verde for their home. For more than 700 years they and their descendants lived and flourished in this area, eventually building elaborate stone communities in the sheltered alcoves of the canyon walls. Then, in the late A.D. 1200s, in the span of a generation or two, they left their homes and moved away.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/M-HPOiZanGmdgIEwkgVyUw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4uaRWh7VAI/AAAAAAAADYg/BnSzjXROITc/s800/P1020869%20edit.jpg" /></a>
Using nature to advantage, Ancestral Puebloans built their dwellings beneath the overhanging cliffs. Their basic construction material was sandstone that they shaped into rectangular blocks about the size of a loaf of bread. The mortar between the blocks was a mix of mud and water. Rooms averaged about six feet by eight feet, space enough for two or three persons.
Most of the cliff dwellings were built from the late A.D. 1190s to late A.D. 1270s. They range in size from one-room structures to villages of more than 150 rooms.
Architecturally, there is no standard ground plan. It would seem builders fitted the structures to the available space.
The first site we visited was Step House. We then back tracked to explore Spruce Tree House.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bS12DxfwimqspJKLMpM7gw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGgl6b45O6fpQE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4ue7nWvlOI/AAAAAAAADZI/pKtufz0uqFQ/s800/P1020889%20edit.jpg" /></a>
Both sites were fascinating and well worth the visit.
On returning to Cortez we thrust ourselves back into the 21st Century with a gourmet McDonalds lunch…