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Thread: Calum's Road - A Ride Of Two Halves

  1. #33
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    Enjoying this immensely.

    Rhonda looks stunning, I have put it on my list of places to see - soon, I hope.

  2. #34
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    just putting in a bookmark and to say how much I'm enjoying, looking forward to the future instalments.....
    <a href=http://www.nomadbiker.co.uk target=_blank>www.nomadbiker.co.uk</a>

  3. #35
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    WTF

    Loving this
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  4. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by weewan View Post
    Loving this




    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  5. #37
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    It’s Tuesday morning now and, at last, we are heading off to Morocco

    All up ‘dark and early’ and we make our way down to the ferry and as the sun comes up so we find ourselves waiting to get on the ferry surrounded by French, German and Dutch camper van things



    and one very strange truck thing, reminded me of Space 1999 or summit



    One more quick shot of the crew and we are called onto the ferry



    Bikes are parked up and we make our way upstairs. Forms are filled in, stamps obtained and then there’s just time to sit and watch Tanger from outside the port as we sit there waiting for a berth.

    The second you roll off the boat the difference that Morocco is hits you. People and dogs everywhere and a guy waving you off to the right with no obvious route through the melee. Eventually you see a chaotic queue of vehicles ahead and join in



    trying to find the shortest lane and every time a vehicle inches ahead it’s back on the bikes and try and claim the new found gap





    We were in the queue quite some time, but nothing compared to how long we’d be hanging around sorting the ‘paper work’

    Moroccan customs are an experience and a half; eventually we got to the head of the queue and despite not really wanting to have to make use of a ‘helper’, of course, we eventually did – unless you are very strong willed and really know what you are doing the chaos all around you can be quite overwhelming and it’s all too easy to let somebody else ‘take the strain’. Having said that, our ‘helper’ was pretty crap, needing constant reminding that he was supposed to be looking after our documents as he’d disappear into the throng with our passports etc A right comedy of errors followed with some of us disappearing up some stairs into, I think , a Police area only to be escorted back out, having to move bikes whilst this was all going on, trying to sort insurance and all the while Crapaud did a sterling job hassling at one of the booths and eventually got us all the stamps and sigs we needed

    So, that was it, we were, at last, after two and a half hours sorting paperwork, in Morocco, in Africa no less

    We would head to Rabat for the first night, ready to start sorting Mauritanian visas the next day at the Mauritanian embassy there. It was decided we should break into two groups to make negotiating Rabat traffic more easily and meet up again in Rabat so I found myself with a new set of riding partners; Paintman, Milk Tray Man and Crapaud.

    The relatively easy traffic of Tanger was easily dealt with and we soon found ourselves on Morocco’s one M-Way heading south (yet more soddin’ M-Way ). Lunch time beckoned and we pulled off at the services to fill the bikes and our tummies



    We hit Rabat bang on rush hour and what fun we had, after the monotony of the M-Way this was what I needed to wake me up. Crapaud had a wee run-in with a Merc driver who tried to run him off the road which looked quite scary from behind but this was certainly more like it, more fun ………….. looking for the Embassy in order to get our bearings we failed miserably and with Milk Tray Man’s 1150 starting to get a bit over hot we decided to find a hotel, except, all the ones we tried were full

    Coming out of yet another hotel Paintman called across to say it was full, thinking he’d seen another other nearby hotel I sped off towards it, literally just around the corner. Milk Tray Man followed, Paintman and Crapaud didn’t All my fault and I was pissed off that after not one incident of loosing anybody thus far I’d managed to be such a twat and loose them in Rabat. Any way, the hotel had rooms; we booked rooms for all the others and eventually Paintman and Crapaud found us after several texts and phone calls.

    In the mean time I’d been texting our position to bhud and and when they turned up a wee bit later there was not great surprise to see them – only thing being, he hadn’t received the texts and they had found us and the hotel purely by chance. In a place the size of Rabat what was the chance of that

    Now, when I previously rode to Morocco with Amanda a couple of years ago I actually didn’t enjoy it as much as I’d hoped I would. I didn’t ‘get it’, My expectations had been raised to such a level from all the reports I’d read on here. There were several things that contrived to make me think of the place as a ‘shit hole’ – a term I used, and immediately regretted, when talking to some of the crew on the way down after a bit too much vin rouge – but one thing I’d found hard to deal with was how ‘in your face’ peeps could be and the, at times, almost constant hassle you can get.

    So, when we went down to the bar and a local ‘big wig’ started chatting to me and buying us beers my immediate reaction was to think ‘what’s he after’.

    I’d had a good talk to myself before coming on this trip and was determined that I wasn’t gonna let the same things piss me off this time so it was interesting to see the reaction of a couple of English guys that we were sat talking to. I was determined to go with the flow, to suspend any suspicions. One of the English guys, in particular, was actually quite rude to the Moroccan guy, refusing any of his offers of a drink and just generally ignoring him and when, after the Moroccan guy had left and Crapaud added up our bar bill wrong this English guy immediately jumped to the wrong conclusion and assumed we’d been stung by the guy that had just left. Thankfully, this wasn’t the case and having had stick from the English guy for being so trusting I felt smugly vindicated.

    Crapaud, Paintman, the two English guys and I then went in search of food, having found the others in an Irish bar we didn’t stay and found a great little ‘kebab’ joint where we had a some good, cheep and cheerful grub

    19/01/2010

    “Well here I am, about to go to bed, what a bonkers day. Finally crossed into Morocco on the 8.30 ferry and got into Tanger for 10ish. Took two and a half hours to get through customs, shear chaos! The busiest border crossing I’ve yet to experience, running hither and dither sorting paper work. Finally through we split into 2 groups, I’m with Sid, John and Glen. Hit Rabat ‘cos they need to get Mauri visas. Traffic, when we got there, was hilarious, full on Moroccon madness, really good fun. Lots of full hotels, eventually found a place with room, I managed to loose John and Sid who eventually found us by following some lads on scooters. The others also found us and even bumped into 2 English guys we’d met earlier at the services. Stuffed on salad and chips from a kebab shop. Not a bad hotel and the bar is full of hookers and pimps, really rather surreal. Shattered so early night and sorting visas tomorrow. So far I’m enjoying Morocco, loads, have met some really friendly and helpful peeps here – what a great place!”

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  6. #38
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    Next day was a leisurely start to the day, made a nice change not to be getting up early and packing up the bikes.

    Whilst the others headed off for the Mauritanian embassy to sort visas I went for a wander………..came across the cathedral, not something you see too often in Morocco



    Before long I was wonderfully lost in the outer suburbs and sat watching the world go whilst sipping mint tea



    Happy with my own company it was a lovely chilled start to the day, got chatting to some old guy in a café who told me all about his niece who was studying to be a doctor in Holland, and very proud of her he was too

    I then wondered off into the Medina, highlight was been laughed at by a bunch of school kids, so, I laughed back at them – they looked terrified It was dead chilled in the market and nothing like my first experience of a Moroccan medina (Marrakech) . So nice to just stop and look at stuff without feeling that at any second you were gonna get hassled I did meet Eric Claptons cousin though, who tried to sell me some slippers









    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  7. #39
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    Having got a text from Mikey that they were gonna have to go back the next day for visas I wondered back to the hotel, rooms were booked for another night and some of us wondered up to Mohammad V’s mausoleum. A bit of a mad old place and with lots of ‘courting’ couples hidden behind the myriad stunted columns








    Wandering back we looked for some lunch……………having spent the morning wandering around getting lost and doing what I wanted to do I came up against one of the flip sides of travelling in a group. We ended up in a pizza restaurant Now, I hadn’t come all this way to keep staying in chain/western style hotels nor eat in pizza restaurants.. ………I know there were often practical reasons for a lot of this ……. probably says more about me than anybody else but it’s funny how little things can bug you, some of the ‘group dynamics’ were starting to make themselves apparent and that really did bug me for some reason.

    Any how, suitably refreshed peeps went back off to the embassy (IIRC?) and I again went off into the medina, later joining up with Paintman who took me off to the souk, where he had been earlier – on the harbour/coast it’s a small self contained area, with heavy Portuguese influences. All white washed and very Iberian – very beautiful. As we left it was shutting up it’s doors and the sun was going down.







    We saw this on a wall, not for the last time either – never did find out what it was all about



    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  8. #40
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    There then followed a lovely evening, all together now we wandered off back into the medina for grub. Happy again ‘cos we were doing what I wanted to do we weaved and snaked our way in amongst the stalls, stopping to buy bits n bobs here and there. I bought my traditional random music CD, (something I’ve done for years now every time I visit a different country) and this time was laughed at by the kids in the shop, guess I bought a really cool CD…………I was starting to get used to being laughed at

    One street we went down was full of food sellers with some very tempting food on offer (even for a veggie!) but we were after a sit down meal







    Mikey found us a great little restaurant, up above a shop, with it’s own little (precarious) balcony and over looking the medina



    and we all sat down to Tagines, bread and just about drinkable wine



    Back at the hotel, as I walked into my room for a good nights kip I heard an almighty ‘klonk’ from my leg……………………..

    10.34am 20/01/10

    “ Wednesday morning and the others have gone to sort visas. Booked in for another night at the hotel. Lovely day, sunny but not too hot. What an amazing place; gone for a walk, dunno where I am, on a major junction sat drinking tea. A bunch of old guys next to me have a mad argument about god knows what and I’m watching the chaos that is Moroccan traffic. People walking by, some very trendy and westernised and others in very traditional garb – quite a contrast. Really settling into this trip now, really enjoying it, really good fun.”

    11.44am

    “So much more laid back here than Marrakech. No hassle, just helpful, friendly people. Just now, trying to cross a really busy road, some old guy twice my age saw I was limping, grabbed my hand and helped me across the road, smiling his good byes when we got to the other side”

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  9. #41
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    So I phone down to Bhud who’s still having a drink with the others, “me legs broke” I say…………………….

    The next morning I see Bhud and Paintman in the breakfast room and we discuss what to do. Paintman offers to stay back and help me do some ‘running’ repairs and we both offer to stay back and wait for Crapaud who has yet to obtain a visa and has to go back to the embassy again. The others head off for Marrakech and we try to decide what to do.
    I strip the leg down and discover a couple of failed rivets, a not uncommon problem with my type of prosthetic. Now the receptionist was a helpful kinda chap so asking for his advice as to where we could find a garage/light engineering shop he co-opts the help of the doorman and Paintman and I find ourselves following him to a closed garage We must have looked quite a sight, Paintman carrying my leg, me on my crutches and the doorman in his uniform

    As we walked / hopped away from the garage a guy came running over and there followed an unintelligible conversation between him and the doorman and then another long trek up a nice steep hill . We eventually entered into the basement of an apartment block and found ourselves in a saddlers Looking at one of the saddles on display I noticed it was held together with rivets – bingo 30 mins later and £5 down, my leg was as good as new (actually BETTER than new, they did a real good job on it ).

    All fixed up, a lazy lunch was had, bikes were packed up, visas collected and Paintman, Crapaud and myself hit the M-Way to catch up the others in Marrakech

    I don’t normally ‘do’ music on the bike but we were for once doing proper M-Way speeds, the sun was going down on wonderful scenery and we were on a mission – on went some banging techno and I was transported into another tripy world of streamer car lights and alien landscapes – fab . Having got a text from t’others that they were pitched up at an Ibis on the edge of town we soon found them and headed off to good ol’ Djemaa el Fna square. The cab ride there was a laugh to say the least as the driver carved here and thither on unlit streets – top fun

    Ending up in the square we went for the full on ‘experience’ wondering around all the food stalls until one of the hawkers we came across was just a wee bit more persuasive than the others………………….

    Time for grub



    Our cook



    The food was fab and we celebrated the end of another eventful day by having wet shaves in a small barbers on the edge of the square



    Have to say, that was quite a day for me. When the leg went I really did think that was the end of the trip fo me, I never really thought I was gonna be able to get it sorted so easily and so well – thanks John, you were a star

    2.45pm 23/01/10

    “ A bit of catching up to do as it’s now satuday…………..Thursday, having gone through all the drama of sorting my leg we had to wait for Sid to sort his visa, he went of first thing, told it’d be ready in 10, 20 30 40, mins etc we eventually picked it up at 3pm after a lazy lunch in the sun. Meanwhile t’others were on their way having set off first thing – doing a mad dash on yet another M-way meant we got there only 30 mins after them. Unpacked, got mini taxis and did that Marrakech thang. Sat at one of the stalls, had mixed veg, lovely spinach dish – great wet shave in the same barbers I went to when last here with Amanda, everybody else seemed to think that looked like fun and ended up have a shave or a bonce cut ………………”

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  10. #42
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    Up bright and early the next morning we remained in our respective groups. It’s all a bit chaotic with regards to where we’re heading and by what route but the general consensus seems to be head for Agadir for the night, at least that’s what I thought

    I was really keen that we met up that night as that would be my last night with the crew before heading off on me todd – I also had a secret plan and (hopefully) some good news to share with them that night, a couple of good excuses for a party

    Our group decided to cross the Tizi-n-Tichka pass and then head east to Agadir whilst t’others chose a more direct route there.
    After an easy ride across Marrakech we, at last, hit some ‘proper’ Moroccan roads, passing through small villages, herds of seemingly wild goats and a mad selection of vehicles on the road And then we were in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, snow capped peaks in the near distance.

    Stopping for a glass of tea we were at last able to sit back and soak up a bit of the ‘real’ Morocco that I increasingly felt myself falling in love with……



    The ‘grocers’ over the road from us



    Inside the café



    and the view up the ‘high street’



    Feckin’ Coke gets everywhere…………………



    Continuing up to the pass we stop for piccies…………see that road through the tree line, we’ve just ridden up through there



    I stop to have a piccie taken and try to out-pose Paintman !!!



    ……Milk Tray Man has had enough of this foolishness and tries to escape….



    The climb up to the summit was breath taking, boy this was good! But, when we crested the summit and saw what lay ahead………….wow The pass is now tarmac but, in various states of repair (sic). What followed was a hilarious ride, the only time I have ever ‘had ‘ to use my ABS when faced with a van head on around a blind corner covered in gravel……..and that was the fun of it, you never knew what surface was gonna greet you as you came around another blind corner………………….proper SM territory, not for the first time did I wish I was on me Husky………….

    Very soon Crapaud and Paintman had left Milk Tray Man and I a long way behind – Paintman; you said the next day that you thought I was just enjoying having a bimble and good on me for not getting caught up in yours and Crapauds ‘ride’…………got news for you, I was ridding as fast as I dared, especially after the ‘ABS’ incident; hats off to you two

    We were rapidly approaching Agadir and my last night with the lads………

    2.45pm 23/01/10
    “Brings us onto Friday….bit chaotic in the morning with nobody seemingly able to agree where we were gonna end up at the end of the day. Had a funny feeling that we wouldn’t end up all together at the end of today…..really wanted to though ‘cos had some news…..Myself John, Glen and Sid decided to ride the Tizzi Tizzi pass (or what ever it’s called), little more than single track in places and often crap surface – not too open so couldn’t always see what was coming – well worth it though, such a fun ride…..”

    Andres

    Away from home ‘til next week now so nothing more ‘til then, sorry.
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  11. #43
    Dancing with the Diavel Click here to find out how to Subscribe
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outtomunch View Post

    Away from home ‘til next week now so nothing more ‘til then, sorry.
    bugger ....just as its getting juicy
    2016 BMW R1200RTLC Iconic #26/100
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    Love a lot, trust a few, but always paddle your own canoe...

  12. #44
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    Great report

    Loving it so far.

  13. #45
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    Stopping at the beautiful walled city of Taroudant for some snap we reckoned we'd make Agadir easily and, 'hoping' that that was where the others had decided to head to we then rode a flat and unremarkable ride to the outskirts of Agadir.

    Typically, a lot of the towns we rode through would have these (not so) grand arches as you entered and left them



    Paintman and Milk Tray Man rode off to find a hotel whilst Crapaud and I waited by the beach ………….. the place reminded me very much of a Spanish resort and is very much set up for ‘winter sun’ holidaymakers.

    We ended up at the same hotel that Paintman and his good lady wife had stayed at before, and, up on the 7th floor has fantastic views of the bay. Co-ordinates were taken and texts sent to the others but for once the texts didn’t get through and we got no replies. We never did meet up that night, it later turned out they were only 40 odd klicks further down the road.

    I was bitterly disappointed, my last night before going solo and I wasn’t gonna be able to say good bye in proper style

    I’d also been hatching a plan whilst away and that night phoned the long-suffering Lovely Amanda and asked her to marry me……………she said yes so a double celebration was on the cards.

    A lovely meal followed, washed down with some very decent Moroccan wine, good byes were said and Crapaud and I left Paintman ensconced with an Irish couple whilst we wandered back to the hotel and were offered, coke, hash and sex all within a hundred metres – could have been a fab stag night but I behaved myself

    The view from my hotel room that night – anybody know what the writing says



    2.45pm 23/01/10

    Hit Agadir and stayed in the same hotel that John and Debby had …..great big tall thing with views…wandered down for a meal, lovely grub. Some guys tried to sell us coke, smack and weed, very bizarre.
    A very mad days for a number of reasons, said my good byes to the lads, it was also Sue’s funeral (an old mate from London who’s funeral I was missing by going on the trip), gave a toast up to her and also I proposed to Amanda…………….and she said yes, to a drive in wedding in Vegas in the Autumn. Really pissed off I didn’t get to say good bye to the others…………..

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  14. #46
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    The view from my hotel room that night – anybody know what the writing says
    Hi Andres

    GOD, KING, COUNTRY.

    Looking forward to May, and really enjoying your report, , now lets see your solo stuff.

    John.

  15. #47
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    really enjoing your ride report !

    especially as im off to morocco at the end of next week
    still no deid

  16. #48
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    Another day, another dollar……………..

    I woke to the sound of Crapauds 1100 starting up and as I made it to my window I was just in time to see the intrepid travellers set off.

    That was it, I was now on my own for the next two weeks.

    It took a while to get myself going but, eventually, I hit the road and found myself heading back the way I’d come in order to get inland. I really couldn’t be arsed with working out a route so just headed in the general direction of Quarzzate.

    Stopping for fuel I sat there with a mint tea contemplating nothing in particular, then had another tea.



    I’d had enough, that day, of riding the bike so with nobody to please except myself, I left my kit with the café owner and went for a wander around the town and very therapeutic it was too

    Back with the bike and I’m off again. Back on a small quiet road, all the time I’m heading east the scenery is becoming that little bit more different, that little bit more unfamiliar



    Despite this I was soon fed up with riding the bike and decided to find somewhere to stay. As I was thinking this I saw and big old building in the distance by the side of a river and idly fancied how great it’d be if I could stay there.

    A couple of klicks down the road and there is a sign to an Auberge and I realise that the track does, indeed, lead down to that very same building



    Following the dirt track down to the river I park the bike up and can not believe what I’ve stumbled upon. This place was everything I’d hoped I’d find in Morocco and, not for the last time in Morocco, I was to have the whole place to my self

    The corridor outside my room and where I had breakfast the next morning



    I struck a deal with the owner and went up to my room to watch the sun go down over the hills from my room



    Not for the last time, either, was I blown away by peoples kindness. The owner invited me into his home (next door to the Auberge) and offered to cook me a meal. Of course I accepted

    This was more like it, as well as feeling I was at last in the ‘proper’ Morocco I was also looking forward to riding some Pistes the next day (and next, and next……) so I sat there reading up on some routes the next day (thanks for the book Mikey ) whilst my host went off and cooked



    Soon after the grub arrived. One of the nicest meals I had all the time I was away.....



    Having had a lovely meal I retired off to my room and suddenly realised just how feckin’ cold it was. The Auberge was defo not set up for winter night time temperatures (no heating) so I slept (sort of) in my jumpers and woolly hat – I didn’t care though, it had been such a great end to the day and the beginning of the rest of my ‘own’ little adventure

    I was looking forward to the next day……………

    2.45pm 23/01/10

    Woke up this morning (Saturday) and decided to head to Quazozwazorat (or what ever it’s called). After all the group riding, which I think I’ve had mixed feelings about, it’s been lovely to be on my own……….not worrying about stopping when I want, or to have to stop to put the lining back in my jacket ‘cos I’m a little bit cold………..or if I just want to keep going all day long. It’s also been wonderful not staying in ‘Euro Hotels’. Set off late morning and I’ve stopped early, about 2pm…amazing Auberge, really beautiful …….on the outskirts of Aoulouz. Stunning ……colourful broken tile floors, coloured glass windows…..30 odd rooms but only me here and the whole thing is costing me £12.50 including grub……saw it from the road and it looks like a castle surrounded by mountains……off now to give the bike a quick going over before the light goes; looks like the hydraulic pre-load is weeping…………then I’m gonna laze around and do feck all for the rest of the afternoon.

    5.59pm 23/01/10

    Sun’s going down and feck it’s freezing – all me jumpers on and my jacket……..beautiful sunset

    9.14pm 23/01/10

    Nicest, biggest Tagine ever………….off to bed now with my woolly hat, sooooo cold, just like camping, good night.

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



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