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Thread: Calum's Road - A Ride Of Two Halves

  1. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by paintman View Post
    Hi Andres

    GOD, KING, COUNTRY.

    Looking forward to May, and really enjoying your report, , now lets see your solo stuff.

    John.
    Ah ha......cheers John Really looking forward to May too

    Quote Originally Posted by boatman View Post
    really enjoing your ride report !

    especially as im off to morocco at the end of next week
    Cheers, have fun......wish I was going ..................

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  2. #50
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    Oh yesssssssssss....

    ...hope you saved the coordinates!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeloader View Post
    ...hope you saved the coordinates!
    Certainly have

    I've saved all the good ones to pass on to Tim for his Maroc Knowledge Base........another one of my 'outstanding' jobs

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  4. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outtomunch View Post
    Certainly have

    I've saved all the good ones to pass on to Tim for his Maroc Knowledge Base........another one of my 'outstanding' jobs

    Andres
    ...outstanding.

    Looks worth a visit.

  5. #53
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    Great stuff Andres really enjoyed reading that Mate

  6. #54
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    Ta

    Reet, here we go again................................

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  7. #55
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    Up bright and early I head east north east towards Quarzzate. Today’s ride was to introduce me to a Morocco I’d only ever imagined before. The further I rode the more desolate it became. After a while there was virtually no vegetation, just hilly, rocky and barren scrub land. Desert really, but without the sand.



    I can’t really get over in words just how much I was enjoying this. Here I was all on my own, totally self reliant, doing something I’d never done before and in a landscape that was becoming increasingly alien and any terms of reference that I may have had were slowly ebbing away.

    I saw a track off the road leading up into some hills and turned off, my first proper piste



    It was very rocky and quite hard going on the GS, riding it at not much more than walking pace and following it for some miles I was soon in the middle of nowhere. For me this picture gives a great idea of just how desolate and remote and how small I felt.



    I stopped there for some time……………..just soaking it all in, took a while, there was a lot to take in



    Back on the road……………..







    ………… and, later, stopping for a mint tea in a small village I had a choice of two routes; a fairly small (main) road or off on a very minor road that eventually became piste. Mmmmm, which should I choose? I wonder

    I climbed and fell into small valley after valley, through narrow passes and eventually came out onto the moon. At least that’s how I thought of it. Totally barren, grey, featureless hills. And, in the middle of all this was a mine



    Where the miners live



    Soon after and I was on mile after mile of piste. This was fun, proper, wonderful, fun Can you imagine what it feels like to be all alone in a place like this……..



    Occasionally I’d meet some other traffic on the track and pull over



    I always had plenty of warning of when they were approaching





    Size matters over here and I soon learnt there was no way the trucks were gonna give way to a poxy little bike. You also didn’t wanna get caught in that shower of dust



    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  8. #56
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    Did I say I was enjoying this? You bet I was

    I ended up going quite far south east of Quarzzate in the end and so had to head back up to it in a north easterly direction. Still incredibly barren I climbed up to a high and windy pass, my intention being to find Bikershome and crash the night there.

    As I climbed up into the hills the views were stunning



    and much of the Armco missing



    It got increasingly cold and a vicious, gusting wind picked up. The days ride had taken it’s toll and I was, at this stage, shattered. Too tired to fight the wind I let it blow me across the lanes of the pass – fortunately there was little traffic and it was both scary at times but also exhilarating, certainly kept me awake

    Tired and euphoric I arrived on the outskirts of Quarzzate and easily found Bikershome. Peter was outside and directed me straight into his immaculate garage



    Now………….what a beautiful place and what a beautiful family Both he and his wife (sorry, I’ve forgotten her name) could not have been more hospitable. I cannot recommend the place highly enough and really look forward to staying with them again one day.

    There was a retired Dutch couple also staying there, travelling across N Africa in a truck they’d had built for them



    and together we all went out for a meal. The star of the evening was Peter’s six year old daughter. So happy and bright and spoke fluent English, Dutch, Berber, Arabic, German and a smattering of other languages I couldn’t help thinking just what a marvellous upbringing she was gonna have, what with all the interesting people coming and going at Bikershome and all the wonderful and varied influences she’d grow up amongst

    Throughout the meal she was begging to go to the fair on the way home, which, we duly did……………..



    there were only half a dozen rides but both her (and Peter) had a very clear favourite, the bumper cars.

    Back at their home and I slept, like a very tired log……..what a wonderful day

    6.39pm 25/01/10

    Right, yesterday (Sunday) was a fantastic day and rode into some quite incredible scenery. Amazing colours, mountains & valleys…..hoooooge skies and then desert as in wasteland………..dead flat as far as the eye could see with snow capped mountains in the distance……beautiful blue skies, fluffy clouds floating around. It really was quite an incredible day!
    Not warm, fairly cold but very wonderful none the less.

    Decided to head to Bikershome…….final climb across some mountains into Quazzzzazarate (how the feck do you pronounce it!?!) was quite hairy and very narrow – very, very gusty winds blowing you across both lanes. Made it to Bikershome, Peter and his lovely family…..Dutch couple in their 50’s staying there in a humungus truck. He was dead interesting having raced in the Paris Dakar on both bikes and trucks. Raced last year in South America, this is his year off and he’s back again next year……..lovely couple, now travelling all over North Africa and Europe…..racing and travelling, can’t be bad!

    Out for a meal with them all, another veg tagine, not bored of ‘em yet but suspect I may soon be…..

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  9. #57
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    You make a great ambassador for Morocco.

    And with these photographs, you are spo...

    Seriously though, I'd really like to see your track logs (you DID, didn't you?)

  10. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeloader View Post
    Seriously though, I'd really like to see your track logs (you DID, didn't you?)

    Mmmmm...........yet another 'outstanding' job

    Will see what I can do young man - off away again this w/e but will try and sort next week and bung 'em over to you

    The trip just about killed off my trusty old Quest and it ended up being held together with gaffer tape so fingers crossed it's still working (not used it since I got back)

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  11. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outtomunch View Post
    Mmmmm...........yet another 'outstanding' job

    Will see what I can do young man - off away again this w/e but will try and sort next week and bung 'em over to you

    The trip just about killed off my trusty old Quest and it ended up being held together with gaffer tape so fingers crossed it's still working (not used it since I got back)

    Andres
    Sounds good to me. No rush, I'm thinking about popping off there around July. I likes warm weather, me.

  12. #60
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    One thing I forgot to mention………………..

    On the way to Bikershome I saw a car at the side of the road with the bonnet up and the owner trying to wave me down.

    The general advice I’d been given by peeps was that you would be best off carrying on as it could often be at best a scam or at worst a mugging. I must admit I nearly did carry on but, remembering my earlier ‘chat’ with myself about trust and preconceptions I pulled over.

    Now the guy could speak very little French and I certainly spoke no Arabic / Berber but one way or another he told me he’d run out of oil and could I go to the next village and let his dad know. His dads name was Mohammad and his house had a small garden in front of it

    When I saw the size of the village I almost gave up there and then but perseverance and pure luck conspired together and on seeing an old guy walking down a track I just ‘knew’ it was him. His name was Mohammad and he had a son out on the road. Before going out to ‘rescue’ his son I was invited in for a cup of tea – lovely

    I rode back to his son, told him his dad was on his way and carried on towards Bikershome……………………….

    When I recounted this to Peter over dinner that night he was really adamant that I shouldn’t have stopped – yet again though, I was glad I’d buried my distrust. I had a lovely reversed s
    tuation a couple of days later and like to think it was some sort of Karma

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  13. #61
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    The next couple of days were spent idley bimbling along small roads and pistes recommended by Peter with my final destination Erfoud and the dunes.

    The scenery just seemed to get more and more beautiful the further east I headed and the skies seemed to get bigger and bigger

    I also saw my first proper desert, or at least what I ‘think’ of as desert , ie lots of sand



    Found lots more trucks to pull over for (the grey sky is a storm I had been trying to out run all day – and succeeded!)



    Did I mention big skies I had to keep pulling over and just sit there looking at them – several times peeps pulled over to see if I was ok; nice





    Magical rock formations and the most vibrant colours



    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  14. #62
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    Looks fantastic.
    We saw sooo much but at the same time missed so much transiting through.

    Grand job Andres loving the photies
    old enough to know better, young enough not to care!

  15. #63
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    As I passed through different areas so the rock colour would change but one constant was that houses would be built from the local stone / earth and would be the same colour, almost camouflaging them.



    Here we see some rocks that some bugger has covered in candle wax…………..



    and here’s a small cottage that some guy was sat outside tending to his herd of goats



    ‘The’ gorges were ridden and truly were very spectacular, a ‘must do’ on anybodies visit to Maroc, but I couldn’t help wishing that I been here a few years earlier when they were still tracks. The twisty bits, especially, would’ve been such fun









    Maroc road signs indicating road-works were interesting



    and posh hotels were stayed in (still only £35 for bed, meal and breakfast ), as ever, I was the only one staying there!







    the view out of my bedroom window was somewhat sobering though, I counted 8 peeps living here…………



    6.42pm 25/01/10

    Stopped in a place called…………..er….feck it, haven’t a clue where I am actually? Tinehear or summit………..maybe? Rode the Tadre thingy, had a great ride……..stunning scenery, nothing like I’ve seen before. Just when you think it can’t get any better……it does! Riding hour after hour through ever changing scenery, following the horizon every dip, every corner presenting yet another vista.
    Coloured rock – deep reds, bright red, greys, weird dirty greens as if the rocks were covered in some sort of algae – quite surreal and alien. Rode up the Dades gorge. The first half was bright, ochre….all the buildings being made of the same mad rock. Bizarre rock formations and a lovely switch back road up to a café and look out post.
    Beautiful sunny day but very cold (wind) so had all my kit on just to keep warm. Arrived at the hotel absolutely frozen – very obviously set up for tourists but still a fab, beautiful hotel.
    Finally worked out how to make the air con chuck out heat!!!!!
    Hoping to get to the dunes at Erfoud tomorrow…………….
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



  16. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhud View Post
    Looks fantastic.
    We saw sooo much but at the same time missed so much transiting through.

    Grand job Andres loving the photies
    We'll have to head back out there some time soon, I know it won't be long before I get that itch to scratch

    Andres
    Doris doesn't give a fuck...be more like Doris!



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