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Thread: Classic airheads and Norwegians invade Morocco

  1. #49
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    Our accommodation for the night....as basic as it comes, with animals on the ground floor and people living above




    De-Kitting in a downstairs room.....
    the nasty niffs coming from some of us would have got us thrown out of most decent hotels, but the family politely ignored it and welcomed us warmly


    The hero of the day Mohamed El Makhloufi and his lovely wife



    That was the only source of proper light in the house....apart from a couple of candles and a dynamo hand torch that Mohamed was rather proud of.

    It was very hard to work out the size of the place, and every room seemed to have kids in it, scurrying around in the pitch black, I guess just totally used to it

    The two older sons were keen to communicate and over the next few hours we all got on really well, with them trying on kit, playing with GPS units and trying to make head or tails out of the Michelin maps we tried to explain to them



    And the two younger kids of the direct family who soon overcame their shyness and joined in



    Mohamed ran around the house and collected up an astonishing number of blankets for us, as we were all shivering and very very cold...





    Gary Glitter blanket

    सत्यमेव जयते


  2. #50
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    One of Gary's emergency light sticks proved to be a major crowd pleaser with the kids...



    And while most of us shivered under out blankets, Anders went prowling with his camera (asking before taking the pics though )

    In one of the rooms, a rug was on the home made loom...We didnt see any dayglo green sheep in the mountains up there, but they do breed them, apparently



    Mohamed's Brother, Or brother-in-law, we couldn't be certain.....


    Now I like Mint tea Moroccan stylee...'Berber Whisky' as it's universally know (apart from in this village, it seemed ) but the few glasses of it that we were served up that evening were beyond sublime......Hot, almost solid with sugar, and did I mention Hot?





    Traditional pouring.....it's quite elaborate and the process is designed to get air into the tea apparently.
    If you did it at home though, your mum would give you a clip round the ear for messing around with boiling water


    The good news came back to the sitting room that there was food on the go as well....



    Bread doesn't get much fresher than this, about to go in the oven



    Beautiful in an unstressed, natural kind of way




    In contrast to the family toilet.
    Ugly, in a stressed natural way



    Mohamed Burbidges



    Pretty soon, Mohamed's second son appeared with a can of warm water, basin and towel, and carefully went to every member of the party and his family and helped them wash their hands.....even though the guys had mostly had a crafty squirt of antibacterial spray because we knew food was imminent, it was evidently expected and a nice little ritual before eating.



    Mohamed's wife did us proud, and we were soon presented with way more than we could have expected




    What a feast
    सत्यमेव जयते


  3. #51
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    Because he's a bit of a charmer, Boerre (Pron. Borough, or thats as close as we could get ) Was given a nice warm gown to sleep in



    Some of the guys slept on the floor and cushions in the living room, and four of us scooted off downstairs into a room we'd been shown earlier, one of which it seems every Moroccan house has, a large communal sitting area with heavy duty cushions all around.



    Sexy as fekk eh?

    Then a dirty pervy slipped in the room



    Every house, shop, business in the country seems to have at least one photo of the king and a Moroccan flag proudly displayed....this house was no exception, but they had a photo of Mohammed V, the current King's father.
    सत्यमेव जयते


  4. #52
    Nice but unfortunate husband.
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    This



    Reminds me of....................

    This



    The "Road of Stones" on Achill, summer 2007.

    Three years and probably 1000 miles apart.

    Nice one Bill.
    There are two opinions of the GS. There are those who have ridden one who think its fantastic and there are those who haven't who know its crap.

  5. #53
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    I should add in that we had spoken to Ian and the rest of the gang shortly after we'd arrived at the house in the village that night via satphone...they'd had a good day's riding and had arrived in Marrakech in the early afternoon, had been sitting around the pool and drinking beer and were heading into the Jmaa El Fnaar to eat that evening....oddly though, none of us would have swapped places with them...it felt very special up in that village, and we all felt privileged and humble to be there

    Anyway.....we woke next morning bright and early, the plan being to see if the river had gone down enough to make the crossing....we were sure we wouldn't make it out the way we'd come with the fuel we had on board, even dipping the tanks of the big bikes, and we'd put Ian on standby for the morning to possibly come out to meet us from the other side of the river with the jerry cans in the Landcruiser.



    It was fairly apparent straight away that it was going to be impossible to cross though, and on refection, we decided not to get Ian to come out to us from the other direction, as we didn't know what was beyond the village on the other side and there was a good chance that we'd end up waiting for him fruitlessly in the village and possibly have to spend another night there, thus screwing the plans for the next 10-11 days circuit.

    After calling him and arranging that he would send the guys with him in Marrakech out on a nice circular ride, and that we'd hopefully meet them all that night in the same hotel in Marrakech that they were in, we started packing up and getting our soggy wet stinking gear on.



    Hoping to get a nice early getaway, we had reckoned without the insistent hospitality of Mohamed and his good lady, who had made tea and bread and served up dishes of locally picked nuts for us as breakfast......



    Eventually we managed to convince them we had to go, and leaving him with a fist full of Dirhams, a few hugs, a spare Leatherman and a with a good few moist eyes (rufty tufty bikers huh ) we saddled up, all dreading the ride back across the mud plain of death.



    Somehow though, it had miraculously changed.....

    Ok, it hadn't of course, but it certainly felt like it.
    The sun was out and bright, although the track was covered in a crusty sheet of ice over the mud, but we felt good, rested, happy and keen to rock and roll, so the ride down the mud plain of death was far easier



    सत्यमेव जयते


  6. #54
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    On the way down, the Norwegians were surprised to see girls lugging the day's firewood and animal feed in massive bundles on their backs, several miles from the nearest village, and so early in the morning.





    And even we were impressed and brought back to the reality of our pampered lives to see guys lugging hulking great tree trunks up the muddy slope!



    सत्यमेव जयते


  7. #55
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    After an hour or so we reached the turning that we chose not to take the day before, and this time, take it.

    We descend into a series of gorgeous valleys and suddenly all is perfect again.....



    But we're starting to run on vaour with the smaller bikes....Ken's KTM690 in particular, followed by the two HP2s with standard tanks and then my DR650, even with its Acerbis tank

    Ken is the first to have to milk the tanker



    We start asking every Moroccan we see about the nearest fuel that might be had.....they're pretty vague, as expected, but all give answers, again, as expected

    Eventually we hit tarmac though and head towards where we think there may be fuel....it's a market village/small town, and that means cars, and that may mean fuel.







    The DR650 conks out 1/4 mile outside the village, but fortunately Anders was behind me and we stuck a litre of petrol in my tank from his airheadand after a few anxious moments trying to restart the bike and finding that the side stand switch was clogged with mud, I follow the guys into the small main drag where Tim has already found a guy with a typical Moroccan lock-up shop that has several barrels of fuel inside.

    After asking if he had enough for all of us, everyone fills their tanks through his greasy old funnel.



    While this is going on, chocolate and cokes are bought and a brief rest is taken





    And then it's my turn to fill up, but Mr Moroccan fuel magnate has run out
    Out comes the jerry can again and i nick 5 litres from one of the airheads, which should be enough to get me to Azilal to refuel again on the way back to Marrakech
    सत्यमेव जयते


  8. #56
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    stunning


    apart from the pic with the big green luminus dildo in iteek
    Dont Bogart that joint my friend, pass it over to me

  9. #57
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    great report so far , the mud looks a killer , glad we had better weather for the November "adventure" , it certainly looks more of a challenge with some heavy rain thrown in!

  10. #58
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    crickey

    Inspirational stuff

  11. #59
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    Great report Bill, how generous the Moroccan villagers are to complete strangers when you really need help for the night.
    Brilliant
    Last edited by JALFREZI; 15-05-10 at 07:51. Reason: clarity

  12. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by JALFREZI View Post
    Great report Bill, how generous the Moroccan villagers are to complete strangers when you really need help for the night.
    Brilliant
    Generous yes, but they charged a hundred quid....Africa!
    KEA

  13. #61
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    Hope you got a VAT receipt

  14. #62
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  15. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timolgra View Post
    Generous yes, but they charged a hundred quid....Africa!


    I would have charged double to clean the feckin' stink out the house....

    really enjoyed reading this.....
    <a href=http://www.nomadbiker.co.uk target=_blank>www.nomadbiker.co.uk</a>

  16. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmman View Post
    great report so far , the mud looks a killer , glad we had better weather for the November "adventure" , it certainly looks more of a challenge with some heavy rain thrown in!
    Ah!! ktmman, but then you did miss out on 'The Fantastic Four Adventures in the Gorge of Doom' our boulders were the size of houses with river beds 200M wide in pitch darkness

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