Flexible oil lines avail

Hi tim
not a good photo
but best i could do as i just got home from work if you need a beter one let me know
008-7.jpg
 
Hi tim
not a good photo
but best i could do as i just got home from work if you need a beter one let me know

cheers that's fine, and it looks well away from the header:thumb
 
These pics will help me so much!! Still not had the time to get mine fitted but i have it pencilled in now for sometime over the next week :D
 
Hi All, Thought I'll mention my opinion on these modified pipes, There to close to the exhaust down pipe.

Even if the pipe can take the heat range, Would it be a good idea to roast the oil from the cylinder head back into the engine for circulation around the engine again?
Manufactures fit external oil coolers to keep the oil temperature down, This seams to me as the opposite,

Is there on way the flexi pipes cannot be routed in the same way as the original metal pipe.
You will still have easy access to the engine cover just my removing the bottom banjo connection from the engine and flexing the pipe out of the way,

Anyway that's my opinion and no doubt will stand corrected,

Just a thought,

:aidan
 
Andy,

There is risk of the oil being roasted and the pipe being too close to the header. But with correct routing you have sufficient airgap to avoid this. The fotos dont really show the scale of things.

The first way I wanted to route the pipe was backwards. I couldnt do this because of the angle at which the banjo has to sit on the engine casing. Then you also do not want to kink the hose. bending radius should be at least 5 times the diameter for these pipes so smooth routing is important.

BMW have a dogleg that allows the pipe to go backwards. At the same time they use a rigid pipe making for more routability. That said the new generation g650GS routes the pipe forward too. I guess they saw fotos what we had done and thought it was a good idea :bounce1
 
Hi, I agree that the new g650 are routing the pipe in the same direction as the flexi pipes,
But not close to the upper and middle part of the exhaust header, Which is undoubtedly the hottest section of the exhaust pipe,

As the hot exhaust gasses exit into the header pipe, The first curve of the header can be described as the blast furnace stage of exhaust gas exit,
Heat transfer changes through the pipe from the airflow further down the header pipe,

The location of the oil return pipe selected by the manufacturers runs just above the clutch and water pump casings and away from the hottest part of the header pipe.

The routing of the flexi pipes must be carried out with care and thought as not to cause any future problems,

This in my opinion should be explained in detail for all the members carrying out this modification in a easy and understandable way,

Do's and Dont's,

Andy
 
As the man said, take care not to route the pipe too close to the header.

err, Andy what happened?
 
Heads up,

they are for sale again over on the F650.co.uk forum,
 
I also need a flexible solution for my F 650 GS oil return pipe

HI

Would somebody be kind enough to guide me toward obtaining a FLEXIBLE oil return hose as I currently do need one quite urgently please !

Thank you Raoul
 
Thank you ALL ! - lots of solutions

Lots of solutions - all with different merits glad to see later model has re-routed the oil line and modded the case for clutch / pump required mod.

Without wanting to appear to greedy for help so soon into signing up ! as I am mid -strip so to speak - I am considering buying a length of 12 mm titanium bar and using this to replace the water impeller shaft kit from motor-works - steel one or would anyone go stainless ? Is anybody making / fabricating these ? or would like to for a reasonable charge ?

Many thanks again especially - Dansin and komatias and co

Raoul

I do like the Norwegian solution !
 
You could try it. It is the shaft that wears so anything that's harder than the original may help. Don't forget to use Molykote 111 grease on the seals.
 
Have local engineering company quoting me for same shaft stainless twice ace hard on hardness scale ? and thank you for the Molykote grease info I will get and use also !
Rgds Raoul
 
Hi all, new user, first posting...

Could anyone on here kindly point me in the right direction for finding the components I need in order to make up my own flexible oil return line please? UK domestic delivery if possible. Most importantly a suitable banjo part to insert in to the lowest part of the hose that attaches to the sump?

Many thanks in advance :)
 
I've got a new one. Never fitted.
Was for a 2002 F650 Dakar.
You'll need a few more posts to use the messaging system if you are interested
And a BMS-C too 🙂
 
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I've got a new one. Never fitted.
Was for a 2002 F650 Dakar.
You'll need a few more posts to use the messaging system if you are interested
And a BMS-C too 🙂
Oh cool, thank you - I might just be interested in this... Do you have some photos please?
 
There you go EdC- all those parts are fro my ex F650 2002 Dak- but some I am keeping as can be used on my Gx.
To give you an ida on how it was mounted- Black stuff over braid is fireproof tubing + a coil -
With that braided line fitted, you can see that you can now open the clutch casing with ease- unlike the dumb hard oil return line-which- if you kink trying to remove to change the clutch- is game over. IMHO, a must have for this moto.
Click on pic to enlarge
Available:
From picture- Some relays, fork seals, BMS-C single spark un it, brake pads, locking tab washer, oil retun line, maybe sparks
Match my parts relay pics with this one of where they are by headstock
 

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There you go EdC- all those parts are fro my ex F650 2002 Dak- but some I am keeping as can be used on my Gx.
To give you an ida on how it was mounted- Black stuff over braid is fireproof tubing + a coil -
With that braided line fitted, you can see that you can now open the clutch casing with ease- unlike the dumb hard oil return line-which- if you kink trying to remove to change the clutch- is game over. IMHO, a must have for this moto.
Click on pic to enlarge
Available:
From picture- Some relays, fork seals, BMS-C single spark un it, brake pads, locking tab washer, oil retun line, maybe sparks

Great - thank you! The hose in that first picture (with all the parts laid out) doesn't look long enough, does it still need to attach to the small down pipe / extension piece from the bottom of the reservoir? How is that lower banjo fitting attached to the hose? I can't see any Jubilee clips or anything obvious. Bit of a newb, so apologies in advance if the Q's seem a bit stoopid.
 
yes a short length of hose is needed to go from header tank down + 2 jubilee clips.
Its been a awhile but I think I used the OE drain nut which goes through the banjo.
I think I also used one of those open ended circlips with rubber trim to lock hose to waterpump casing- see pic below
No worries ( you should ask John how many daft Q's I've bombarded him with :rob... he has the patience of a saint!)
 

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