Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

No worries, I appreciate any help I can get!
I went through the wiring per the original post, checked it three times. The one thing I did find was two yellow with black stripe wires. Tried both with the same results. The other possible fault is the wrong brown ground wire. I will confirm it is a ground with a volt meter. I did connect Hyper-lite flashing LED brake light pods to the brake light wiring in the rear. These worked fine with the servo intact. I can just just dis-connect the posi-taps to test if that's the issue. I've seen a few posts of others having the same issue (brake lights always on) with using the Relay. I wonder if my 2002 R1150R needs a different wire combination?

I was going to suggest checking each switch to make sure that they are closed closed circuit when the lever is not pulled

I recall R1150Rt with the servo brakes sometimes just needed the front switch adjusted "BUT" go very gentle with the little screws they snap off You can sometimes just bend the little arm a little more on the microswitch to make the switch action firmer that the switch was properly closed ?

Possibly worth trying to hold each switch "more" closed in turn just to test that theory ??? The Front is underneath the switchgear assembly, that cover underneath lifted off will let you see it 2 screws If I recall correctly
 
I was going to suggest checking each switch to make sure that they are closed closed circuit when the lever is not pulled

I recall R1150Rt with the servo brakes sometimes just needed the front switch adjusted "BUT" go very gentle with the little screws they snap off You can sometimes just bend the little arm a little more on the microswitch to make the switch action firmer that the switch was properly closed ?

Possibly worth trying to hold each switch "more" closed in turn just to test that theory ??? The Front is underneath the switchgear assembly, that cover underneath lifted off will let you see it 2 screws If I recall correctly

Good thought, though the switches were working fine prior to the Servoectomy. I can hear the "click" as the lever and pedal are actuated.
 
So testing various wires I found if I disconnect the Gray/Yellow wire from spade #4 on the relay the running lights work fine. When I actuate either brake switch the relay clicks but no brake lights. With it connected to the relay the relay does not function when brake switch activated. I assume #4 is to power the brake light lead. Odd thing is the Gary /Yellow wire is hot full time. even with ignition off. This per the original instructions.
f) Pin 4 - Connect grey/yellow (tail light feed) to this pin
Unfortunatly I do not have a schematic with wire color codes.....

What the :blast now the brake lights are working fine ?!?! I must have had a bad connection. Seriously I dont even have the Beer fridge plugged in the shop.:beer:

Thanks for all the responses !!!!
 
Here we go... it started off with changing the pads, then noticed that the front braided brake hose had been fitted by a previous owner ready to plumb straight into the lever, so decided to disconnect stuff...

Having managed to re-plumb the hoses easily, and remove the ABS pipes and unit, I am a wee bit stuck with the wiring as the photos in the thread show a different ABS/servo unit and wiring than mine, pictured.

And of course, I HAVE CUT WIRES as the only apparent way of getting the servo off. Those are the only ones I have cut, however.

What do I need to do with the wires at the servo relay, including the two severed ones? And anything else?
 

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I'm not gonna be much help. But all I can say is that's not a servo unit... Are you sure it needed removing? I thought these ABS units were serviceable, to a degree?



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That's an ABS II unit You do not need to use the Electronics box

All it does is calculate the brake release points for ABS braking

Just Plumb the brakes front and rear as normal and leave the ABS unit disconnected

Might be an idea to seal the connector with a dab or two of vaseline in a plastic bag???
 
That's an ABS II unit You do not need to use the Electronics box

All it does is calculate the brake release points for ABS braking

Just Plumb the brakes front and rear as normal and leave the ABS unit disconnected

Might be an idea to seal the connector with a dab or two of vaseline in a plastic bag???

Many thanks Doctor.
Dang- in the intervening period I have sealed the electronics box onto the kitchen chopping board! I won't tell my darling wife.:blast
I will seal the connector as suggested.
I am pleased to report I have brake lights and have sealed the redundant live and earth with self amalging tape. All good to go once I've done the pads and fluids. And fit the DIN power socket I got from you...:rolleyes:
 
I'm not gonna be much help. But all I can say is that's not a servo unit... Are you sure it needed removing? I thought these ABS units were serviceable, to a degree?



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Well, its all ripped out and in the bin now! I assumed it was all the same unit, but obviously not... d'oh. I wonder what the silver cylinder is then?
 
Well, its all ripped out and in the bin now! I assumed it was all the same unit, but obviously not... d'oh. I wonder what the silver cylinder is then?
You've done nothing wrong. Just that there's a much better chance of fixing a fault with those units. A good internal clean seems to be the most common solution. The servo brake units are Bieber a different story. But the bike will be fine without the unit connected thumb:2

There's basically a motor and a plunger unit. The shiny part is the motor, weathered ali part the plunger unit. Sometime might well take it off you for spares


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
what i want to know is why does your phone know the word ‘bieber’ to auto-correct? type that in to your phone often do we rodin? ;)
 
Ah yes, big big fan. Not.

Bloody auto complete. Arghhhhh :)


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Here we go... it started off with changing the pads, then noticed that the front braided brake hose had been fitted by a previous owner ready to plumb straight into the lever, so decided to disconnect stuff...

Having managed to re-plumb the hoses easily, and remove the ABS pipes and unit, I am a wee bit stuck with the wiring as the photos in the thread show a different ABS/servo unit and wiring than mine, pictured.

And of course, I HAVE CUT WIRES as the only apparent way of getting the servo off. Those are the only ones I have cut, however.

What do I need to do with the wires at the servo relay, including the two severed ones? And anything else?
You had no need whatsoever to remove your abs unit, even if the abs doesn't work it doesn't affect your brakes, unlike the servo/abs units
Many thanks Doctor.
Dang- in the intervening period I have sealed the electronics box onto the kitchen chopping board! I won't tell my darling wife.:blast
I will seal the connector as suggested.
I am pleased to report I have brake lights and have sealed the redundant live and earth with self amalging tape. All good to go once I've done the pads and fluids. And fit the DIN power socket I got from you...:rolleyes:

Your brake lights are completely separate from the abs unit :D unlike the servo-abs :D never mind,
 
I am actually glad that I have taken it out, as the brakes are easier to bleed and have much more feel. I am wondering how I could use the space now...
Ironic that I could have perhaps have repaired the unit, as the hard pipes are fit for scrap now I have ripped them out.
As always, many thanks gentlemen.
 
After a near miss with brake failure I decided to strip out the servo, I followed your instructions & worked first time, I’m s a bit dab handed at bleeding brakes which helped, only took 3hrs to complete, brakes feel fantastic now & bike feels great, I can actually feel what my brakes are doing now, given me bags more confidence especially in the wet, 10 out 10 for the simple servo abs removal guide 👍
 
Thank you Dave and All! Just an additional question please

Hello Team,
first of all thank you Dave for this post that helped me a lot even if I did not remove YET my ABS Modulator on my BMW R 1150 RS 2002.

Could someone first tell me for which BMW model and year the Dave electrical explanations are referring to?

Thank you very much.
Ciao!

Riccardo
 
Hello Team,
first of all thank you Dave for this post that helped me a lot even if I did not remove YET my ABS Modulator on my BMW R 1150 RS 2002.

Could someone first tell me for which BMW model and year the Dave electrical explanations are referring to?

Thank you very much.
Ciao!

Riccardo

It's for the Servo/ABS brakes usually from 2003 onwards and 1200 models up to 2007. .

It's not for the pre 2003 standard ABS only brakes.
 
The esteemed Mr. Hager's exhaustive how-to from many years ago is a first-class guide to servicing ABS-equipped bikes' brakes.

I'd take issue with only one aspect of it though, and that concerns caliper pistons cleaning.

These calipers sit in the swirling blast of dirt and weather as you ride along, and as the pads wear, slightly more of each piston surface emerges from its seal, thus becoming cruddied-up to various degrees.

I think it's very important NOT to push any of the pistons back into the caliper body past their seal, in order to extract the pads or do anything else, u-n-t-i-l the entire circular surface of each piston has been restored to factory brightness and shine with something like a car-body-finisher's ScotchBrite rubbing cloth. Many BMW / Brembo caliper pistons are chrome-plated and should be nice'n'shiny. Pushing cruddied-up pistons back into the caliper body before cleaning their outer surface can compromise the fluid seal.

As seen elsewhere on the excellent 'ADVRider' forum, the cleaning procedure detailed by member 'cyclerob' is the best way to achieve these pistons' clean brightness.

Using soapy water and a stiff toothbrush to clean up all the nooks and crannies of the caliper casting is the way to go, and where the section of each piston circumference right in the corner by the caliper casting is inaccessible, using the recommended piston removal pliers to turn the piston to reveal the hidden mucky bit is the ideal. This set of pliers grasps the inside diameter of the piston not the outside, thus avoiding marks on the seal-to-metal surface. Remember, the piston is in the shape of a small coffee cup.

Also, a smear of rubber / nitrile seal-friendly oil on the cleaned-up surface and working the pistons in-and-out several times under fluid pressure will restore superbly silky hand and foot lever operation.

Manual as opposed to powered vacuum bleeding often doesn't completely shift the mucky DOT4 hidden inside the caliper body, so many enthusiastic caliper cleaners with plenty of time on their hands, ( hollow laugh from Steptoe ) disconnect the caliper from its fluid line and push out all the pistons completely, one-by-one, with the help of a compressed-air line, to polish them up properly and to discard any remnants of crappy fluid hiding inside the caliper body. This of course requires a complete new flush and bleed.

Only saying....

AL in s.e. Spain
 
The esteemed Mr. Hager's exhaustive how-to from many years ago is a first-class guide to servicing ABS-equipped bikes' brakes.

I'd take issue with only one aspect of it though, and that concerns caliper pistons cleaning.

These calipers sit in the swirling blast of dirt and weather as you ride along, and as the pads wear, slightly more of each piston surface emerges from its seal, thus becoming cruddied-up to various degrees.

I think it's very important NOT to push any of the pistons back into the caliper body past their seal, in order to extract the pads or do anything else, u-n-t-i-l the entire circular surface of each piston has been restored to factory brightness and shine with something like a car-body-finisher's ScotchBrite rubbing cloth. Many BMW / Brembo caliper pistons are chrome-plated and should be nice'n'shiny. Pushing cruddied-up pistons back into the caliper body before cleaning their outer surface can compromise the fluid seal.

As seen elsewhere on the excellent 'ADVRider' forum, the cleaning procedure detailed by member 'cyclerob' is the best way to achieve these pistons' clean brightness.

Using soapy water and a stiff toothbrush to clean up all the nooks and crannies of the caliper casting is the way to go, and where the section of each piston circumference right in the corner by the caliper casting is inaccessible, using the recommended piston removal pliers to turn the piston to reveal the hidden mucky bit is the ideal. This set of pliers grasps the inside diameter of the piston not the outside, thus avoiding marks on the seal-to-metal surface. Remember, the piston is in the shape of a small coffee cup.

Also, a smear of rubber / nitrile seal-friendly oil on the cleaned-up surface and working the pistons in-and-out several times under fluid pressure will restore superbly silky hand and foot lever operation.

Manual as opposed to powered vacuum bleeding often doesn't completely shift the mucky DOT4 hidden inside the caliper body, so many enthusiastic caliper cleaners with plenty of time on their hands, ( hollow laugh from Steptoe ) disconnect the caliper from its fluid line and push out all the pistons completely, one-by-one, with the help of a compressed-air line, to polish them up properly and to discard any remnants of crappy fluid hiding inside the caliper body. This of course requires a complete new flush and bleed.

Only saying....

AL in s.e. Spain

This thread is about removing the iABS completely and not about how to clean calipers properly
 
This thread is about removing the iABS completely and not about how to clean calipers properly

It's american, they always use far too many words than they need to and always go over the top on any written "how to".

It's suffice to simply say "clean the calipers".
 


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