To The Dolomites September 2010
Julie, John and I Set off Thursday 9th Sept for Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam. First touring trip for a few years fully fuelled and loaded eeeek. First few miles easy does it then let’s roll. Arrive at Ferry and what a clean pleasant, well organized setup. Last time it was bilge rope and a moron trying to snap me bike in two. Newish ship, very clean, outboard sea view and a standard cabin. Food very good for mass catering, 10% reduction if booked in advance. Full on waiter service. Our guy fell in love with the Mrs and made her a flower from napkins; we discussed a fair price but had to let him down gently. Main reason being she’s really good at maps - No it’s that way s*d what the satnav says. Goodnights sleep only to be awoken by Gladys Pugh “MORNING CAMPERS” at 6am.
Ready to roll 9.15am pep talk from no1 fat man - anyone tired, distracted, feeling uncomfortable shout and we stop. Ride to Hotel Engel in Lehr nr Ulm 467miles.
Off with Gusto - my Zumo 660 (tw*t) not putting out enough volume at speed. John came forward Zumo 550 sorted. Missed an exit, one of many satnav spazzes. Had written rolling destinations Julie cuts the intercom chaff and heads us the right way. Ace Navigator. Crunched 300miles sorted 660 at first petrol stop. Hotel by 5pm, yeah right. 3 to 4 accidents on opposite carriage, roadworks and driving style killed our fun. Last on autobahn 2003 fast drivers overtake then back in….. Now still doing this but running out of room - Nearly totalled by VW at about 90mph realised he was overshooting exit cutting me up, good peripheral vision and all the brakes - tyre smoke anyone? - Julie and John same. Expletives Lost on Driver. However the look of horror as a fully loaded adventure approached him, eyes bulging. Services for underpants change and lunch. Into traffic jam, filtered for 3 miles, lots of cars driving out to stop us, 3mm clearance squeeze through , car horns telling me off, what’s up used drive t`works fork truck loads of room. Arrive at Hotel Engel 6.15pm. A nice hotel, good food, friendly staff and comfortable rooms.
Sheepskin on, at Hotel Engel.
Saturday 11th
Running by 9.15am really hot day, lamb land sheepskin seat covers on all bikes - trial run. Well worth £11.00.
Once onto A7 back to 80 85mph. Did a couple of roll ons to over the ton, the big GS is so stable. However little gert the F650gs with givi panniers weaves anything over 85mph to epic wobble at 90. So we stay at 80 one and all. Both 1200gs doing 50mpg and F650 over 60mpg. From A7 into Austria, took us over an hour to descend not many filtering opportunities. Dropped into petrol station at border for Austrian Vignette ,5 euros each lasts 10days. Filled up with petrol cheaper than Germany. Very good sarnies. Brenner Toll road to Italian Border and another stop, rammed with weekend warriors. We did Fernpass but it was too busy to enjoy.
Off Italian motorway to E66 S.Lorenzo 244 to Corovara and first Pass Compolongo to Arabba end of this pass is our Hotel Olympia. Last hour was a hoot but everyone tired - Julie and John new to pass riding. As sun dropped, stopped for photos. Julies look communicated her gross displeasure, me all excited and little boy like, could almost feel me lip trembling. We move on briskly and arrive at 7.15pm. Car park at Olympia rammed , we park under a statue of Christ everyone gauking big camber, slowly does it. We are all tired. Englander 100% well done, no mishaps phew! Book in find room, wow the facilities and THE VIEW is it really only 3 star? Shower down for tea, 5 courses + salad bar. The food is Ladin influenced, mix of Italian, German and Austrian. Food and service is good, between us and staff we have enough language to communicate, that’s half the fun. Couple of dishes over the stay were mmmm... what’s that? But at 41 euro each per day half board can't really fault it. Staying 5 days.
Our Hotel.
View from bedroom window.
Hotel welcome sign.
Hotel at night.
Sunday12th Sept
Church Bell wake up at 7am, have breakfast and walk into Arabba. We know there’s a big cycle race today, and want a bit of a rest. Before travelling I always check what’s on in the area. Markets, transport links, special events etc. Talked with a very nice policeman about what roads are open. All open. Walk back to hotel unpack everything and meet up to discuss. Keep it simple cameras on Johns bike - muvi £38 use a fast card don’t get it wet, very acceptable footage. My camera (forgot to turn it on.) Julie on my bike as passenger, resting aching knee. Taking loads of photos. Like having 40 meerkats squirming and turning, here we go. Compolongo pass to Corovara, pick up Valporola and ride to Rifugio for Lunch. So hot and sunny we all caught the sun. Head off for Falzarego Pass down to Corte and swing back to Arabba spotting the closest petrol station. Satnav says there are loads. Most big places have a station, Corovara says it has 4 but we only found 1. A lot are euro note operation, not manned on Sunday. Views you have to see to believe how beautiful it is. Home for tea and drinks.
Monday 13th Sept
Bar-steward! It’s raining, can’t see the road outside the hotel. Breakfast and into bar for coffee. Now snowing and settling on tops. Outside temp 6 degrees C. Thank god ive got me long keks and me winter 'live long and prosper gloves!' JULIE, JULIE, JULIE it’s not raining or snowing. JULIE, JULIE, JULIE its clearing a bit can we go out yet can we go out to play yet? Come on ye Big Oaf yer getting right on my tiatners. We will go and find petrol and see what its like.
It will be beautiful on the tops. We are off for petrol - cash in for the quantity of fuel you need. We ride to the Falzarego Pass and its cold but roads are clear to the top. We stop for photos and to get a coffee to thaw out. Checked that Julie’s Muvi camera was working - cold maybe affects battery. It is working. What views! We go on to pick up the Giau Pass and once again WOW. More pictures and we are off , Julie getting more and more confident. Let her go ahead so she is not always following. She is loving it all which is what I hoped for.
I did these passes 2002/3 with friends on a pass bagging mission, thanks to John Hermann. 17 passes in a day. 6 photos all holiday between 3 men. When my Brother in law saw our pictures he said did we really go there on 2002 trip? Yes but it was wow next pass wow next pass at speed. Good fun! Promised to bring Julie to this Beautiful Place for my 50th Birthday. This time slower and more time spent enjoying. Before leaving Julie asked if she could ride the Pass Roads in the Dolomites. My response was that they are almost all much, much easier than Wrynose and Hardnott passes in the Lakes.
We ride toward Staulanza Pass back to Arabba. MMMM its tea time, menu changes every day, Julie, Julie me trousers wont close! Drinks, edit pictures and videos. Goodnight.
Tuesday 14th
Julies Day - it is a difficult day, a remembrance day, the anniversary of Julies Mum passing away.
We ride to Corovara area and go up the Piz la ila ski lift at the top it is beautiful. We spend a couple of hours there walking and enjoying the serenity of the place. We descend and collect John who is more scared of heights than even me. Julie wants to share an Italian pizza. We find a really good place to eat and have a small glass of beer. The sun is with us and Julie says I am feeling ok now so we can go wherever you want.
So its Valporola, Falzarego, Giau, Staulanza, Duran, Forcella Aurine, Cereda, Rolle, Valles, San Pelligrino - Get satnav lost in Moena-realise as we pass same garage twice. Pull in to check map. Julie comes over with a birch twig, hands it to me so I can hit myself because if she does it she will not know when to stop. 1 -its late, 2-she is tired, 3-we are still along way away from the Hotel. Map says Canazei, we are off! I giggle inside, a nervous reaction. I know we are on the home run with one more pass to do. The Pordoi as it’s a brilliant one. With Mrs B burning the back of my neck with her eyes, we are off up the Pordoi at dusk. We are all really tired but what a pass! Accelerate away from Wifey, she stays with me bit between her teeth. Going for it! We have some videos but few photos of this brilliant run. 13 pass roads from 1.30pm, finally arrive at Olympia at 7.30pm Needs doing over a full day though.
Wed 15th
Early breakfast and off. Following signs for Falzarego then Andraz heading for Lake Fedaia each village have owl plaques and carvings, some really interesting sculptures. Over the intercom “if you want to stop shout out! “ Riding through Rocca Pietore as we are about to leave the village... STTTTTOOOOP! We wheel round and run back down and park up. WOW. Look at this metal work and woodwork - animals , birds ,some life size. Many pictures taken. A very special place.
We ride on to our lunch stop Lake Fedaia. Most people stop just off main road. John Hermann again - ride over. Better views, a Ristorante in Pink, looked too expensive. We offload all gear into my panniers as its very hot again. Take pictures, Julie goes for a paddle, feet soon going blue, lots of fish a magical place.
Dinner at the Rifugio, home made cakes and Mrs B asking for all the names and recipes. Put 5lb on just writing this. We start heading down into Canazei I have turned my music on - on Zumo 660 now can not communicate with other two. Music off listen to that engine. Joy of Joys the Pordoi Pass, we pick up the Sella Pass part way up. Let John and Julie get ahead, Julie has bit between her teeth today, usually berates me for letting her ride up front - she passes 2 coaches, just managed to catch her at the top, made me ride sharper and quicker oooh what was that adrenalin? Top woman that she is. Julie has revelled in the whole experience, taking in all the highs and lows together. We pick up the Pso di Gardena or Grodner Joch back to Corovara the Compolongo Pass and back to base. What a day.
Thurs 15th
Over breakfast we discuss riding over to Canazei to do present shopping. Weather is changing and overcast. Big miles to Speyer tomorrow on way home. Consensus to shop local and then ride the Pordoi for final pictures and lunch. Julie says share a pizza who am I to argue. We shop and on the way back Julie goes all David Bellamy discussing flowers and fauna, taking pictures galore. A 10min brisk walk to the hotel took over ½ hour, bless her they look brilliant. She was so excited when she found edelweiss she broke into that sound of music favourite. At this point I turned into Mr High waister Simon Cowell.. “That was the worst audition I have ever heard, stick with your day job” lol. I overcame her withering look! We sprinted for the biking gear and we were off up the Pordoi. On our descent discussed cornering technique, good line of site, if clear go a bit wider, power back on off apex. Anyway she waited for me further down the road. Just gets better, wish we could stay. Off home tomorrow.
Friday 17th September
Ready to depart 8.30am oh its raining, that fine rain that soaks you through. We set off, John very unsure on the Compolongo Pass fully laden, a donkey cart passes us twice. Once back on easier roads we make a little progress. Onto A22 and rain abates, around Innsbruck Zumo660 does a spaz out and in confusion and traffic we lose John. We transmit A12 Fern Pass A7 head for Speyer. We stop for petrol and chat to a Dutch couple who saying we are heading wrong way. Map and sat nav say we are not while debating they change their minds. We very quickly find our way to Fernpass and hear Darth Vader over intercom. We say last services stop for lunch before A7 or go on to Speyer. More heavy breathing, quite exciting. Accident on Fern Pass and nearly another as a Swiss merc trying to overtake emergency vehicles comes straight at Julie forcing her to swerve. I gave him the Paddington Bear Hard Stare, what a Swiss plank. We meet up with John for lunch after he guides us in to where he’s parked. Brake light sticking on. We do a fix on my bike after chatting to Steve at Rainbow. Leatherman out, cover off, WD40, pump the pedal. Brake light now not stopping on, result. Thanks to Darth/ John he fixed it. All the way to Hotel Am Wartum in Speyer, no problems made good time.
The hotel was well placed for eating out, a little expensive but very good. Quite cold for our last ride up to Rotterdam. New use for lambland seat cover - stuff it in me jacket front. Toasty. Boring Motorway drive to ferry.
Go again 2011 - already planning but for longer and a few different pass roads. My daughter and partner are travelling with us by car for her first road trip so Julie is pillion this time, cheaper too. Julie is a little gutted she is not taking her bike but needs to be able to support Hannah with driving just in case. We will do more walking this year.
2012 want to do Route Des Grandes Alpes and then Route Napoleon. Planned it for this year but a little expensive. I wouldn’t want to camp now but would if it meant I could carry on touring. Julie and I have bike toured with our daughters in the UK and big chunks of France. Hannah is wanting to start her own travelling chapter albeit by car. Support Vehicle for Big Tent sounds good to me. She elects to drive on forward to establish base camp and we bimble down to join them. Might even get a Yurt.
Julie has just applied a Vulcan death grip to my shoulder and is asking me to repeat after her.
"We are not camping ever again!!!"
http://www.youtube.com/user/andrewgsadv
More videos and photos on my youtube.
Hope this has worked.
Julie, John and I Set off Thursday 9th Sept for Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam. First touring trip for a few years fully fuelled and loaded eeeek. First few miles easy does it then let’s roll. Arrive at Ferry and what a clean pleasant, well organized setup. Last time it was bilge rope and a moron trying to snap me bike in two. Newish ship, very clean, outboard sea view and a standard cabin. Food very good for mass catering, 10% reduction if booked in advance. Full on waiter service. Our guy fell in love with the Mrs and made her a flower from napkins; we discussed a fair price but had to let him down gently. Main reason being she’s really good at maps - No it’s that way s*d what the satnav says. Goodnights sleep only to be awoken by Gladys Pugh “MORNING CAMPERS” at 6am.
Ready to roll 9.15am pep talk from no1 fat man - anyone tired, distracted, feeling uncomfortable shout and we stop. Ride to Hotel Engel in Lehr nr Ulm 467miles.
Off with Gusto - my Zumo 660 (tw*t) not putting out enough volume at speed. John came forward Zumo 550 sorted. Missed an exit, one of many satnav spazzes. Had written rolling destinations Julie cuts the intercom chaff and heads us the right way. Ace Navigator. Crunched 300miles sorted 660 at first petrol stop. Hotel by 5pm, yeah right. 3 to 4 accidents on opposite carriage, roadworks and driving style killed our fun. Last on autobahn 2003 fast drivers overtake then back in….. Now still doing this but running out of room - Nearly totalled by VW at about 90mph realised he was overshooting exit cutting me up, good peripheral vision and all the brakes - tyre smoke anyone? - Julie and John same. Expletives Lost on Driver. However the look of horror as a fully loaded adventure approached him, eyes bulging. Services for underpants change and lunch. Into traffic jam, filtered for 3 miles, lots of cars driving out to stop us, 3mm clearance squeeze through , car horns telling me off, what’s up used drive t`works fork truck loads of room. Arrive at Hotel Engel 6.15pm. A nice hotel, good food, friendly staff and comfortable rooms.
Sheepskin on, at Hotel Engel.
Saturday 11th
Running by 9.15am really hot day, lamb land sheepskin seat covers on all bikes - trial run. Well worth £11.00.
Once onto A7 back to 80 85mph. Did a couple of roll ons to over the ton, the big GS is so stable. However little gert the F650gs with givi panniers weaves anything over 85mph to epic wobble at 90. So we stay at 80 one and all. Both 1200gs doing 50mpg and F650 over 60mpg. From A7 into Austria, took us over an hour to descend not many filtering opportunities. Dropped into petrol station at border for Austrian Vignette ,5 euros each lasts 10days. Filled up with petrol cheaper than Germany. Very good sarnies. Brenner Toll road to Italian Border and another stop, rammed with weekend warriors. We did Fernpass but it was too busy to enjoy.
Off Italian motorway to E66 S.Lorenzo 244 to Corovara and first Pass Compolongo to Arabba end of this pass is our Hotel Olympia. Last hour was a hoot but everyone tired - Julie and John new to pass riding. As sun dropped, stopped for photos. Julies look communicated her gross displeasure, me all excited and little boy like, could almost feel me lip trembling. We move on briskly and arrive at 7.15pm. Car park at Olympia rammed , we park under a statue of Christ everyone gauking big camber, slowly does it. We are all tired. Englander 100% well done, no mishaps phew! Book in find room, wow the facilities and THE VIEW is it really only 3 star? Shower down for tea, 5 courses + salad bar. The food is Ladin influenced, mix of Italian, German and Austrian. Food and service is good, between us and staff we have enough language to communicate, that’s half the fun. Couple of dishes over the stay were mmmm... what’s that? But at 41 euro each per day half board can't really fault it. Staying 5 days.
Our Hotel.
View from bedroom window.
Hotel welcome sign.
Hotel at night.
Sunday12th Sept
Church Bell wake up at 7am, have breakfast and walk into Arabba. We know there’s a big cycle race today, and want a bit of a rest. Before travelling I always check what’s on in the area. Markets, transport links, special events etc. Talked with a very nice policeman about what roads are open. All open. Walk back to hotel unpack everything and meet up to discuss. Keep it simple cameras on Johns bike - muvi £38 use a fast card don’t get it wet, very acceptable footage. My camera (forgot to turn it on.) Julie on my bike as passenger, resting aching knee. Taking loads of photos. Like having 40 meerkats squirming and turning, here we go. Compolongo pass to Corovara, pick up Valporola and ride to Rifugio for Lunch. So hot and sunny we all caught the sun. Head off for Falzarego Pass down to Corte and swing back to Arabba spotting the closest petrol station. Satnav says there are loads. Most big places have a station, Corovara says it has 4 but we only found 1. A lot are euro note operation, not manned on Sunday. Views you have to see to believe how beautiful it is. Home for tea and drinks.
Monday 13th Sept
Bar-steward! It’s raining, can’t see the road outside the hotel. Breakfast and into bar for coffee. Now snowing and settling on tops. Outside temp 6 degrees C. Thank god ive got me long keks and me winter 'live long and prosper gloves!' JULIE, JULIE, JULIE it’s not raining or snowing. JULIE, JULIE, JULIE its clearing a bit can we go out yet can we go out to play yet? Come on ye Big Oaf yer getting right on my tiatners. We will go and find petrol and see what its like.
It will be beautiful on the tops. We are off for petrol - cash in for the quantity of fuel you need. We ride to the Falzarego Pass and its cold but roads are clear to the top. We stop for photos and to get a coffee to thaw out. Checked that Julie’s Muvi camera was working - cold maybe affects battery. It is working. What views! We go on to pick up the Giau Pass and once again WOW. More pictures and we are off , Julie getting more and more confident. Let her go ahead so she is not always following. She is loving it all which is what I hoped for.
I did these passes 2002/3 with friends on a pass bagging mission, thanks to John Hermann. 17 passes in a day. 6 photos all holiday between 3 men. When my Brother in law saw our pictures he said did we really go there on 2002 trip? Yes but it was wow next pass wow next pass at speed. Good fun! Promised to bring Julie to this Beautiful Place for my 50th Birthday. This time slower and more time spent enjoying. Before leaving Julie asked if she could ride the Pass Roads in the Dolomites. My response was that they are almost all much, much easier than Wrynose and Hardnott passes in the Lakes.
We ride toward Staulanza Pass back to Arabba. MMMM its tea time, menu changes every day, Julie, Julie me trousers wont close! Drinks, edit pictures and videos. Goodnight.
Tuesday 14th
Julies Day - it is a difficult day, a remembrance day, the anniversary of Julies Mum passing away.
We ride to Corovara area and go up the Piz la ila ski lift at the top it is beautiful. We spend a couple of hours there walking and enjoying the serenity of the place. We descend and collect John who is more scared of heights than even me. Julie wants to share an Italian pizza. We find a really good place to eat and have a small glass of beer. The sun is with us and Julie says I am feeling ok now so we can go wherever you want.
So its Valporola, Falzarego, Giau, Staulanza, Duran, Forcella Aurine, Cereda, Rolle, Valles, San Pelligrino - Get satnav lost in Moena-realise as we pass same garage twice. Pull in to check map. Julie comes over with a birch twig, hands it to me so I can hit myself because if she does it she will not know when to stop. 1 -its late, 2-she is tired, 3-we are still along way away from the Hotel. Map says Canazei, we are off! I giggle inside, a nervous reaction. I know we are on the home run with one more pass to do. The Pordoi as it’s a brilliant one. With Mrs B burning the back of my neck with her eyes, we are off up the Pordoi at dusk. We are all really tired but what a pass! Accelerate away from Wifey, she stays with me bit between her teeth. Going for it! We have some videos but few photos of this brilliant run. 13 pass roads from 1.30pm, finally arrive at Olympia at 7.30pm Needs doing over a full day though.
Wed 15th
Early breakfast and off. Following signs for Falzarego then Andraz heading for Lake Fedaia each village have owl plaques and carvings, some really interesting sculptures. Over the intercom “if you want to stop shout out! “ Riding through Rocca Pietore as we are about to leave the village... STTTTTOOOOP! We wheel round and run back down and park up. WOW. Look at this metal work and woodwork - animals , birds ,some life size. Many pictures taken. A very special place.
We ride on to our lunch stop Lake Fedaia. Most people stop just off main road. John Hermann again - ride over. Better views, a Ristorante in Pink, looked too expensive. We offload all gear into my panniers as its very hot again. Take pictures, Julie goes for a paddle, feet soon going blue, lots of fish a magical place.
Dinner at the Rifugio, home made cakes and Mrs B asking for all the names and recipes. Put 5lb on just writing this. We start heading down into Canazei I have turned my music on - on Zumo 660 now can not communicate with other two. Music off listen to that engine. Joy of Joys the Pordoi Pass, we pick up the Sella Pass part way up. Let John and Julie get ahead, Julie has bit between her teeth today, usually berates me for letting her ride up front - she passes 2 coaches, just managed to catch her at the top, made me ride sharper and quicker oooh what was that adrenalin? Top woman that she is. Julie has revelled in the whole experience, taking in all the highs and lows together. We pick up the Pso di Gardena or Grodner Joch back to Corovara the Compolongo Pass and back to base. What a day.
Thurs 15th
Over breakfast we discuss riding over to Canazei to do present shopping. Weather is changing and overcast. Big miles to Speyer tomorrow on way home. Consensus to shop local and then ride the Pordoi for final pictures and lunch. Julie says share a pizza who am I to argue. We shop and on the way back Julie goes all David Bellamy discussing flowers and fauna, taking pictures galore. A 10min brisk walk to the hotel took over ½ hour, bless her they look brilliant. She was so excited when she found edelweiss she broke into that sound of music favourite. At this point I turned into Mr High waister Simon Cowell.. “That was the worst audition I have ever heard, stick with your day job” lol. I overcame her withering look! We sprinted for the biking gear and we were off up the Pordoi. On our descent discussed cornering technique, good line of site, if clear go a bit wider, power back on off apex. Anyway she waited for me further down the road. Just gets better, wish we could stay. Off home tomorrow.
Friday 17th September
Ready to depart 8.30am oh its raining, that fine rain that soaks you through. We set off, John very unsure on the Compolongo Pass fully laden, a donkey cart passes us twice. Once back on easier roads we make a little progress. Onto A22 and rain abates, around Innsbruck Zumo660 does a spaz out and in confusion and traffic we lose John. We transmit A12 Fern Pass A7 head for Speyer. We stop for petrol and chat to a Dutch couple who saying we are heading wrong way. Map and sat nav say we are not while debating they change their minds. We very quickly find our way to Fernpass and hear Darth Vader over intercom. We say last services stop for lunch before A7 or go on to Speyer. More heavy breathing, quite exciting. Accident on Fern Pass and nearly another as a Swiss merc trying to overtake emergency vehicles comes straight at Julie forcing her to swerve. I gave him the Paddington Bear Hard Stare, what a Swiss plank. We meet up with John for lunch after he guides us in to where he’s parked. Brake light sticking on. We do a fix on my bike after chatting to Steve at Rainbow. Leatherman out, cover off, WD40, pump the pedal. Brake light now not stopping on, result. Thanks to Darth/ John he fixed it. All the way to Hotel Am Wartum in Speyer, no problems made good time.
The hotel was well placed for eating out, a little expensive but very good. Quite cold for our last ride up to Rotterdam. New use for lambland seat cover - stuff it in me jacket front. Toasty. Boring Motorway drive to ferry.
Go again 2011 - already planning but for longer and a few different pass roads. My daughter and partner are travelling with us by car for her first road trip so Julie is pillion this time, cheaper too. Julie is a little gutted she is not taking her bike but needs to be able to support Hannah with driving just in case. We will do more walking this year.
2012 want to do Route Des Grandes Alpes and then Route Napoleon. Planned it for this year but a little expensive. I wouldn’t want to camp now but would if it meant I could carry on touring. Julie and I have bike toured with our daughters in the UK and big chunks of France. Hannah is wanting to start her own travelling chapter albeit by car. Support Vehicle for Big Tent sounds good to me. She elects to drive on forward to establish base camp and we bimble down to join them. Might even get a Yurt.
Julie has just applied a Vulcan death grip to my shoulder and is asking me to repeat after her.
"We are not camping ever again!!!"
http://www.youtube.com/user/andrewgsadv
More videos and photos on my youtube.
Hope this has worked.
