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Thread: Workshop jobs

  1. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer View Post
    I'm sure that there weill be some 12 volt sources.

    If we hide the battery that's supposed to go into Pink Lady'as machine until we're done...............................
    I always have a few ex-Land Rover batteries around fully charged as SWMBO uses them for the horses electric fences.

    Don't mention the battery bought for her R80! That found its way into my R100RS along with several other bits I needed to complete my bike last week. I might be living dangerously.
    Apparently, the clock and voltmeter in her fairing no longer work but everything on my RS works 100% now.

    Her bike is safe now as I have Proff's R75 alongside but I think he knows which bits are on his. I was too slow to notice the new K&N filter in his airbox before he noticed it.

    I have spent several hours in last week working on her machine and it is finally nearing completion. I had to rebuild the front end and fit new forks as some of the fittings were seized solid. Also eventually got the front brakes to work after a lot of time, money and effort. New pistons in calipers, new pads and all new brake fluid.

    This bike of hers will be like Trigger's broom by the time it is finished, every single nut, bolt and washer will have been replaced. Bought a load of new washers and stainless nuts and bolts today so that everything is as new. Even managed to get the domed headed nuts in stainless that attach the front mudguard. Also fitted a set of Krauser K2 panniers and fittings today. Ordered a period original pressed steal number plate. I dread to think what this bike has cost me in total but I'm sure it will be worth it.

    I must take some photos of the bike coming together.

  2. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer View Post
    Do bears sh1t in the forest?
    I didn't know there were bears in Sid's forest!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronno View Post
    Then I remembered. He doesn't ride a GS. Therefore he aint at the sharp end of Dudeness...
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    'Where there's offence, there's brass'




  3. #19
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    Bench time

    How long does it take to re-grease the gearbox drive?


    And will I need to replace the drive shaft boot?

    Also a bit of expert help/avice wouldn't go a miss too.


    I ask 'how long' because Jill will no dought want to be riding around the lanes, rather than have her bike on the ramp while it's serviced


    Val.
    You know!?, it's the people who live in the land that always seem to make it more beautiful than it already appears.


  4. #20
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    "How long does it take to re-grease the gearbox drive?"

    Is that a bit like asking, "How many tossers does it take to change a [head]light bulb?"

    Sumprat

  5. #21
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    How long does it take to re-grease the gearbox drive?


    And will I need to replace the drive shaft boot?








    Depends what kind of a bastard the new gaitor is to fit, but usually under 2.5 hours..

  6. #22
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    How long does it take to replace the crankshaft output oil seal on an R60?

    Final drive and swing arm off to get the gearbox out or move the engine forward? (Maybe I should ask Proff to look in his Clymer manual Oops, that will be the one that I still have All photographed and on a RAM stick, so the paper is going home soon.)

    What parts are needed beyond the seal and flywheel bolts, I'm assuming that they are a one time use consumable?

    Is it worth it for a very slight leak resulting in an oil film below the flywheel housing on the ledge at the rear of the crankcase?

    I haven't topped up the bike in over 1,000 miles and it is still above the low mark on the dipstick.
    '83 BMW R100
    Yamaha S10
    '69 BMW R60 US

  7. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer View Post
    How long does it take to replace the crankshaft output oil seal on an R60?

    Final drive and swing arm off to get the gearbox out or move the engine forward? (Maybe I should ask Proff to look in his Clymer manual Oops, that will be the one that I still have All photographed and on a RAM stick, so the paper is going home soon.)

    What parts are needed beyond the seal and flywheel bolts, I'm assuming that they are a one time use consumable?

    Is it worth it for a very slight leak resulting in an oil film below the flywheel housing on the ledge at the rear of the crankcase?

    I haven't topped up the bike in over 1,000 miles and it is still above the low mark on the dipstick.
    To keep the engine 'solid' while you work on it, I would remove the final drive and slide the gearbox back and out. I've removed my gearbox three times this way and it's quite quick - an hour-ish. Don't forget new stretch-bolts
    Illegitimis nil carborundum

  8. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill-H View Post
    Don't forget new stretch-bolts
    ????

    Next, I've been looking at the pretty pictures in the Clymer book but they don't even mention an oil seal at the back of the crank.
    '83 BMW R100
    Yamaha S10
    '69 BMW R60 US

  9. #25
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    would like help to replace the pushrod tubes with shiny stainless ones, not a job i know how to do on my 80 g/s.
    could we check valve clearances and end float too while it is in bits?

    am coming down friday if that helps clear a slot on a ramp late friday/early saturday or whatever suits

    thanks
    how much

  10. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by how much View Post
    could we check valve clearances and end float too while it is in bits?thanks
    how much
    No Mr HM, you have to put it back together first
    '83 BMW R100
    Yamaha S10
    '69 BMW R60 US

  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer View Post
    ????

    Next, I've been looking at the pretty pictures in the Clymer book but they don't even mention an oil seal at the back of the crank.
    Stretch bolts BMW part no. 26111242297.

    MotorWorks Part No. is: TRA42297 (Universal Joint Bolt).

    Motobins Part No. 54000.

    Have a look at RealOEM.com for parts fiches. There's a link from Motorworks website.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronno View Post
    Then I remembered. He doesn't ride a GS. Therefore he aint at the sharp end of Dudeness...
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapping View Post
    'Where there's offence, there's brass'




  12. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by brassmonkey001 View Post
    Stretch bolts BMW part no. 26111242297.

    MotorWorks Part No. is: TRA42297 (Universal Joint Bolt).

    Motobins Part No. 54000.

    Have a look at RealOEM.com for parts fiches. There's a link from Motorworks website.
    Thanks BM, sorted out the parts from the Realoem drawings
    '83 BMW R100
    Yamaha S10
    '69 BMW R60 US

  13. #29
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    My steering head bearings had an advisory at the last MOT. Today I actually investigated the idea of doing the job (well, adjusting anyway) The bolts that go through the clamp that holds the pad that the hazard switch on, are tack welded onto this bracket!

    So, if a grinder is available, this would be a good job to get out of the way.
    1150GS , Yamaha FJ1200. Moto Guzzi California 3.

  14. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ELIMINATOR View Post
    So, if a grinder is available, this would be a good job to get out of the way.
    Available?

    Its one of my favourite tools.

    Got an angle grinder and also got a dremel for the hard to get at little areas.

    Sid

  15. #31
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    Drive shaft splines, now there's an idea....

    I may even bring down the sonic tank for some carb cleaning if needed..

  16. #32
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    carb cleaning. My 100RT is prone to stalling when puling away, I thought I read somewhere that it's down to err "something" being blocked?
    1150GS , Yamaha FJ1200. Moto Guzzi California 3.

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