Any bearing experts here. Have a look at these for me please

Den

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P1040493.jpg

P1040492.jpg


Gearbox input shaft taper rollers. No grooves or cracks or roughness, just a matt finish to the outer race and rollers.
Dya think these are ok ?
 
Outer race and rollers look ok to me via the pics shown.
No fluting, spalling or static corrosion marks present, so sure, I reckon they can go back in. :thumb2
 
I can see dulling on the main body of the rollers, but shiney at the end section. And the outer race seems to have scoring around it

For peace of mind I'd replace them while the box is apart and you have them in front of you.
 
I can see dulling on the main body of the rollers, but shiney at the end section. And the outer race seems to have scoring around it

For peace of mind I'd replace them while the box is apart and you have them in front of you.

Plus one

The outer shell has a dullness to it that I'd not be liking Cap'n!!!
 
My opinion is that the grey marks you see are signs of the contact surface on the bearing roller to race are mated well due to the wear being uniform along the length of the roller (although it does look significant). The other area to look would be on the end of the roller inside the cage, the 'dot' in the middle should be quite small. As the roller wears, the 'dot' gets bigger as it wears against the bearing carrier. Looking at the length of the roller in relation to the cage I would guess there is a fair amount of wear on the rollers' overall length.
Personally, I would replace the bearing as it's easy enough to do at this stage.
 
Replacing bearings is the easy bit. But seemingly, there is a special bmw steel plate, which you put over the assembled shafts to work out preload and shimming and things prior to fitting the end cover if bearings are replaced. Dont want to have to do that bit if I dont have to.

Gearbox was ok,not whiney or noisy in any way, but 'sporty' gearshifts were a bit grunchy. Found that the spring steel band round the clutch pressure plate was broken which was probably the cause.
I thought that whilst the box was out , I'd have a look inside. Ive got a spare gearbox which, if I noticed anything untoward, I would swap them over.
Apart from the input shaft bearings looking a bit iffy, all seems ok.

Think I'll just bolt it together again and try it.

Thanks for all opinions :thumb2
 
the equation goes like this......how much does it cost to change them now...and how much does it cost in 100 miles ? don't forget time to assemble and then dis-assemble and re-do ?
ps do your crank rear main seal whilst you are there. thats what i would do .....but what do i know !
pps don't forget the piss-take factor, that everyone here will have....
 
if everything else is okay you could just change that one ????

Same principle as final drive bearing change .
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.:hide :hide :hide :hide
 
the equation goes like this......how much does it cost to change them now...and how much does it cost in 100 miles ? don't forget time to assemble and then dis-assemble and re-do ?
ps do your crank rear main seal whilst you are there. thats what i would do .....but what do i know !
pps don't forget the piss-take factor, that everyone here will have....

+1

Why take the risk of having to repeat the job. Just replace the bearing or more is others look the same.
 


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