XT350 Owners
- Thread starter craig614
- Start date
Had one as a works bike for a while, at that mileage watch the wheel and cush drive bearings, Yamaha used unshielded bearings which didn't last well.
other than that a cracking bike for the time
other than that a cracking bike for the time
Great bikes, will go anywhere your abilities can 
Had several of these.Very capable trailbike. Enjoy
Very nice. If you ever sell, give us a PM
So gents, what's the full proof technique for starting or are they just a bugger if been left for a week or three......?
Mine was always difficult when left for a week or two, cold weather doesn't help. The important thing to check is the manifolds - it's often not obvious if they've come unstuck but even a very small air leak makes starting much harder.
Agothaclypse
Registered user
Yes, Ive got one. I use it for my winter bike. Was in a bit of a state when I got her, ie been used as a field bike, however all the bits taken off were supplied with the bike.
Mine is now at 38,000 miles. Have had to do some work, all wheel bearings have been replaced with sealed items. Front brake was stripped overhauled & given a stainless piston & new seal & hose replaced with a HEL braided ssteel item.
Fork seals were shot, so stripped, cleaned, new seals fitted & refilled with fork oil.
Airfilter wasnt an air filter, just a bit of shitty sponge wi no oil. replaced with pukka item.
Replaced the shot micron exhaust with a ssteel predator, which is v-nice.
Rocker cover was leaking oil, so gasket from Wemoto replaced, no more leak.
She has taken me to work on a daily basis through the last 2 horrible winters, wi no probs.
Had some issues this year though.
1. The oil pump gave up the ghost, still ran, i didnt notice until I did the oil change & as Clymer advised disconected the oil feed pipe at cylinder head to make sure oil was coming through, it was not. So pulled off clutch cover to find the oil pump drive gear had shed all its teeth (it is made of tufnel for no reason I can fathom). sourced a replacement gear from CMSL, this one is of a nylon like material, not ideal, but better than tufnel. Also got a used oil pump off ebay (just in case) price was reasonable but because it came from the USA I got stung by customs for £18.00 extra, bit rough I thought for a 2nd hand part. Had to remove clutch to remove oil pump, inspected clutch plates springs etc, all were servicable as was the pump itself. replaced gear & reassembled all good until.
2. Had given her a good fettle for the MOT, upon kicking over, the kickstart shaft sheared at the clutch casing, bummer. Fortunately, the kick axle is a stub shaft, so crank case splitting not required. Could not find a 2nd hand one so CMSL again, £80.00 Ouch! Fitted, reassembled, MOT passed & in use again.
3. Lately, she has been burning oil. Blue/white smoke at startup & on compression untill engine fully warmed up. Ive checked the compression & its very close to spec & very slight increase after putting oil in cylinder bore. I am suspecting the valve stem seals were damaged during the time the oil pump had failed. So thats my next job. Waiting till summer. I have the seals & gaskets (god bless ebay) but thought if im taking the head off I might as well check sort the valve seats, piston, cylinder bore etc.
Ive gone on a bit, but in spite of these issues, which I suspect were down to abuse by prior owner, I still love this bike. its so much fun & I think with the proper TLC, will be very reliable.
Hope my experiences are of use to you.
BTW, dont bother with the Haynes manual for this bike, its shit, get the Clymer.
Will post some pics in a bit
Regards
Spyder.
Mine is now at 38,000 miles. Have had to do some work, all wheel bearings have been replaced with sealed items. Front brake was stripped overhauled & given a stainless piston & new seal & hose replaced with a HEL braided ssteel item.
Fork seals were shot, so stripped, cleaned, new seals fitted & refilled with fork oil.
Airfilter wasnt an air filter, just a bit of shitty sponge wi no oil. replaced with pukka item.
Replaced the shot micron exhaust with a ssteel predator, which is v-nice.
Rocker cover was leaking oil, so gasket from Wemoto replaced, no more leak.
She has taken me to work on a daily basis through the last 2 horrible winters, wi no probs.
Had some issues this year though.
1. The oil pump gave up the ghost, still ran, i didnt notice until I did the oil change & as Clymer advised disconected the oil feed pipe at cylinder head to make sure oil was coming through, it was not. So pulled off clutch cover to find the oil pump drive gear had shed all its teeth (it is made of tufnel for no reason I can fathom). sourced a replacement gear from CMSL, this one is of a nylon like material, not ideal, but better than tufnel. Also got a used oil pump off ebay (just in case) price was reasonable but because it came from the USA I got stung by customs for £18.00 extra, bit rough I thought for a 2nd hand part. Had to remove clutch to remove oil pump, inspected clutch plates springs etc, all were servicable as was the pump itself. replaced gear & reassembled all good until.
2. Had given her a good fettle for the MOT, upon kicking over, the kickstart shaft sheared at the clutch casing, bummer. Fortunately, the kick axle is a stub shaft, so crank case splitting not required. Could not find a 2nd hand one so CMSL again, £80.00 Ouch! Fitted, reassembled, MOT passed & in use again.
3. Lately, she has been burning oil. Blue/white smoke at startup & on compression untill engine fully warmed up. Ive checked the compression & its very close to spec & very slight increase after putting oil in cylinder bore. I am suspecting the valve stem seals were damaged during the time the oil pump had failed. So thats my next job. Waiting till summer. I have the seals & gaskets (god bless ebay) but thought if im taking the head off I might as well check sort the valve seats, piston, cylinder bore etc.
Ive gone on a bit, but in spite of these issues, which I suspect were down to abuse by prior owner, I still love this bike. its so much fun & I think with the proper TLC, will be very reliable.
Hope my experiences are of use to you.
BTW, dont bother with the Haynes manual for this bike, its shit, get the Clymer.
Will post some pics in a bit
Regards
Spyder.
Agothaclypse
Registered user
Here is the piccys I promised.
This is when I got her. No indicators, clocks, rear rack etc etc.
After some work
This is when I got her. No indicators, clocks, rear rack etc etc.
After some work
Agothaclypse
Registered user
Oil pump disastor.
Clutch removed
New gear fitted + new Oring on pump out feed.
pump was dissasembled, but apart from gear was fine.
Back insitu & all is good.
Clutch removed
New gear fitted + new Oring on pump out feed.
pump was dissasembled, but apart from gear was fine.
Back insitu & all is good.
Agothaclypse
Registered user
Sorting the forks.
Oil drained, it was well manky
Old seal & dust cap goosed
Stripped.
The bottom bolts in the forks were siezed, no amount of loctite freeze & release or an impact driver would get it to shift. However it is not neccessary, although manual would have you believe otherwise. Had to cobble a tool together to undo damper from inside.
New seal fitted. had to make a seal driver from a bit of plumbing pipe, not ideal but worked & saved me the £45.00 of a proper driver.
Oil drained, it was well manky
Old seal & dust cap goosed
Stripped.
The bottom bolts in the forks were siezed, no amount of loctite freeze & release or an impact driver would get it to shift. However it is not neccessary, although manual would have you believe otherwise. Had to cobble a tool together to undo damper from inside.
New seal fitted. had to make a seal driver from a bit of plumbing pipe, not ideal but worked & saved me the £45.00 of a proper driver.
Agothaclypse
Registered user
Front brake caliper was pretty crappy & kept sticking/
Now all nice. Stripped, cleaned, painted, new seal & stainless piston from Wemoto fitted.
Refitted & treated to a nice HEL braided hose & fittings.
Now all nice. Stripped, cleaned, painted, new seal & stainless piston from Wemoto fitted.
Refitted & treated to a nice HEL braided hose & fittings.
Thanks for posting
If it is a later one make sure that the carb rubbers are not the restricted ones. they have a web across the centre that half the power
Agothaclypse
Registered user
No, its a 1990.
BTW Anyone else think the new MOT certificate a bit shit
Regards
Spyder
Mine always started ok even if left for months. Fuel on, choke out, turn it over a few times to pull some fresh mixture through, find tdc and kick like a mule, away it goes!!!!!
Good choice of bike, great fun, they even run underwater
If you are not going to use the bike in the next fews days, turn the fuel off and run it dry. Seems to make starting much easier if left for a week or two.
Starting from cold. Fuel on, choke out, kick it over a couple of times with ignition off and throttle closed. - Turn on ignition and kick it over with 1/4 throttle and she should go after a couple of kicks.
Starting from cold. Fuel on, choke out, kick it over a couple of times with ignition off and throttle closed. - Turn on ignition and kick it over with 1/4 throttle and she should go after a couple of kicks.
Watch & learn...................
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