Help!!!! Been out a few times recently and the clutch seems to be slipping in 5th gear when accelerating hard at about 4000-5000 revs. again out today (got soaked!!) with pillion and it done it again while overtaking and then while doing 70mph in 6th it just reved right up as if out of gear. most of the time the bike rides fine and the clutch seems ok. The bike has done 53k and am unsure if the clutch has ever been done but it has got bmw history to about 45k, any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
R1150GSA 05 HAS MY CLUTCH GONE
- Thread starter cjpdiver
- Start date
Well If It's slipping like that I would say you ned a new clutch. I think I am right In saying they are self adjusting as they wear. Seems like yours has reached the end of It's life.
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Symptoms sound familiar to me...
If it is clutch slip, it will be more noticable when you have more weight on the bike (i.e. pillion - or fill your panniers with lead to test it)
Not a cheap job
If it is clutch slip, it will be more noticable when you have more weight on the bike (i.e. pillion - or fill your panniers with lead to test it)
Not a cheap job
A days work if you twiddle the spanners yourself.
Doe's the engine have to come out for a clutch change Rob on the 1150 or airheads for that matter?
Canuck
Registered user
ON 1100 and 1150's you just need to break the bike in half.... a few screws/bolts and lift up the rear subframe and voila... no need to take apart the engine... it is part of the frame on these bikes.
Engine stays in place for them both. It's obviously much easier to change on the Airhead. Should take an hour or so to get the gearbox out of an airhead and a similar amount of time to put it back. I think it's something like 12 bolts need to be removed on the airhead and four of those are on the drive shaft coupling.
Ignore the Haynes manuals for the oilheads, they tell you to strip everything off, in reality the whole subframe can be pivoted up out of the way with everything in place. When we did MrIFans we even left the swinging arm and driveshaft attached to the gearbox. Bit of a b&stard to line up after though.
Worth bearing in mind that the metalastic coupling on the drive shaft can sometimes go, giving 'clutch slip' type symptoms that can come and go (to start with).
I seem to remember pointing my bike against a wall, pulling back the front SA gater, and seeing the front part of the shaft rotate as the shaft slipped - sadly after I'd replaced the clutch!
I seem to remember pointing my bike against a wall, pulling back the front SA gater, and seeing the front part of the shaft rotate as the shaft slipped - sadly after I'd replaced the clutch!
Big Jets
Registered user
No one has remarked on possible slave cylinder leakage contaminating the clutch,still need a clutch plate all the same .Done this job on my mates R1150r.
Same as my old GSA. Clutch pushrod seals gone. Take the clutch slave cyl off, simple job, if there is any oil/fluid in the g/box housing it will travel down the pushrod and contaminate the clutch giving the symptoms you say. Still have to take the clutch out and replace, also both the pushrod seals and felt pad on the push rod. If you have a garage, small trolly jack and several cups of tea can do it easily in a day. Used a combination of Haynes manual and instructions from this and the Adventurerider site, loads of tips like cutting the heads of some spare bolts to use as gearbox guides.
Bendy toy
Registered user
I once did that on a VW camper van. It worked great for aligning the engine but the cut-off bolts were too short to remove so the engine had to come out again. Doh!
Another option is to file the head flanges off some button headed socket screws. They (usually) have a smaller hex so the allen key will still unscrew them.
Another option is to file the head flanges off some button headed socket screws. They (usually) have a smaller hex so the allen key will still unscrew them.
Funny thing is
Just an observation from my experience:
I bought my GSA with 13000 miles, hardly broken in. And just like you explain, mine was doing the same. However, I recently did a road trip from Newbury to Lyon and back. By the time I reached the ferry, she had stopped slipping. And no sign of it returning. So maybe it also happens when the bike has been standing for a while and not been ridden like she should.
Just an observation from my experience:
I bought my GSA with 13000 miles, hardly broken in. And just like you explain, mine was doing the same. However, I recently did a road trip from Newbury to Lyon and back. By the time I reached the ferry, she had stopped slipping. And no sign of it returning. So maybe it also happens when the bike has been standing for a while and not been ridden like she should.
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