Bleeding 'jobs'

Onahi said:
So its not the ABS then :confused:
Click to expand...

Yes it is in this case, because I was PM'd and told exactly how old the brake fluid is.

So, would bleed the ABS unit to flush the 2 decade old fluid out and would do it before the caliper.

Next:rolleyes:
 
Timolgra said:
Yes it is in this case, because I was PM'd and told exactly how old the brake fluid is.

So, would bleed the ABS unit to flush the 2 decade old fluid out and would do it before the caliper.

Next:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Tar. Doing mine the weekend !

:angel
 
The other reason in this case is that the brake hose WILL be replaced before it splits won't it Paul?:augie:D
 
Paul G (BHT) said:
Thanks again chaps, I'm due to get my eyes lasered next week so I better get it done and back together before then in case it all goes pear shaped :D
Click to expand...



You'll be fine ..... :thumb2


nerd_glasses_eye_wear_glass_thumb2.jpg
 
Giles said:
You'll be fine ..... :thumb2


nerd_glasses_eye_wear_glass_thumb2.jpg
Click to expand...
I flipping hope so, they're only doing my dominant eye. They say if they do both I'll need reading glasses in situations where I don't at the moment.

So I'm sitting here practicing with one lens taken out of my glasses :D.... Feel pished and not started on the JDs yet :D
 
New hose arrived from MotoBins this morning..... but it's no good as the two banjos are clamped on in the same plane instead of a 90 degree 'twist' :blast

Tried fitting it but the hose was under so much twisting force that I decided it wasn't going to be long before it buggered its self up..... called MotoBins and they have no more in stock, so the old one is back on for now :(

All new fluid in the system now though :thumb2
 
Yes, I know - old thread. Of the threads returned for my search, it's the one with content closest to my query.

My 1150 has non-servo ABS, with stainless hoses. I'm replacing pads and fluid in the next week or two. Can you guys confirm or correct a couple of things for me?

BLEED ORDER
  1. Control unit front bleed valve.
  2. Control unit rear bleed valve.
  3. Front calipers.
  4. Rear caliper.
If the order is important, why?

I read Steptoe's comment regarding bleeding the control unit not being necessary, but I want to anyway - it'll satisfy my OCD. Can bleeding at the control unit if it's not necessary do any harm?

What volume of fluid should I expect to use to flush/replace the control unit + front calipers + rear caliper, bearing in mind I'm also fitting new pads all round?

I'll be doing the job on my own:

  1. Old-school manual repetitions of pump lever/open nipple/close nipple/top-up?
  2. Non-return hose on opened OE nipple? Which non-return hose?
  3. Speedbleeder nipples?
  4. Mityvac 8020 or (preferably cheaper) equivalent? Which one?
  5. Reverse-bleed from bottom up? Which kit/method?
If air floats to the top of hydraulic fluid, why do we usually try/expect to expel it from the bottom of a hydraulic system?

Thanks. :thumb2
 
If it's non-Servo, then does it have 'Control circuits'?

I thought the earlier, ABS only system, was actually a direct connection to the caliper, albeit via the ABS unit?
 
PhaedrusMC said:
Yes, I know - old thread. Of the threads returned for my search, it's the one with content closest to my query.

My 1150 has non-servo ABS, with stainless hoses. I'm replacing pads and fluid in the next week or two. Can you guys confirm or correct a couple of things for me?

BLEED ORDER
  1. Control unit front bleed valve.
  2. Control unit rear bleed valve.
  3. Front calipers.
  4. Rear caliper.
If the order is important, why?

I read Steptoe's comment regarding bleeding the control unit not being necessary, but I want to anyway - it'll satisfy my OCD. Can bleeding at the control unit if it's not necessary do any harm?

What volume of fluid should I expect to use to flush/replace the control unit + front calipers + rear caliper, bearing in mind I'm also fitting new pads all round?

I'll be doing the job on my own:

  1. Old-school manual repetitions of pump lever/open nipple/close nipple/top-up?
  2. Non-return hose on opened OE nipple? Which non-return hose?
  3. Speedbleeder nipples?
  4. Mityvac 8020 or (preferably cheaper) equivalent? Which one?
  5. Reverse-bleed from bottom up? Which kit/method?
If air floats to the top of hydraulic fluid, why do we usually try/expect to expel it from the bottom of a hydraulic system?

Thanks. :thumb2
Click to expand...

Bleeding order - front abs modulator nipple then front calipers. Rear abs modulator nipple then rear caliper. Although it doesn't matter In what order you start as front and rear systems are separate.
 
PhaedrusMC said:
Yes, I know - old thread. Of the threads returned for my search, it's the one with content closest to my query.

My 1150 has non-servo ABS, with stainless hoses. I'm replacing pads and fluid in the next week or two. Can you guys confirm or correct a couple of things for me?

BLEED ORDER
  1. Control unit front bleed valve.
  2. Control unit rear bleed valve.
  3. Front calipers.
  4. Rear caliper.
If the order is important, why?

I read Steptoe's comment regarding bleeding the control unit not being necessary, but I want to anyway - it'll satisfy my OCD. Can bleeding at the control unit if it's not necessary do any harm?

What volume of fluid should I expect to use to flush/replace the control unit + front calipers + rear caliper, bearing in mind I'm also fitting new pads all round?

I'll be doing the job on my own:

  1. Old-school manual repetitions of pump lever/open nipple/close nipple/top-up?
  2. Non-return hose on opened OE nipple? Which non-return hose?
  3. Speedbleeder nipples?
  4. Mityvac 8020 or (preferably cheaper) equivalent? Which one?
  5. Reverse-bleed from bottom up? Which kit/method?
If air floats to the top of hydraulic fluid, why do we usually try/expect to expel it from the bottom of a hydraulic system?

Thanks. :thumb2
Click to expand...

You might as well change the clutch fluid as you're at it. You'll probably need to get a bleed nipple to do it, as some (all?) of them just have a connection with a one-way valve. You need to screw a bleed nipple into the valve to open it. I got a speed bleeder for mine - made the job very easy.
 
Thanks guys. :thumb2

tadhgocuilleain said:
You might as well change the clutch fluid as you're at it. You'll probably need to get a bleed nipple to do it, as some (all?) of them just have a connection with a one-way valve. You need to screw a bleed nipple into the valve to open it. I got a speed bleeder for mine - made the job very easy.
Click to expand...

Got a pic and/or link? Is it a "standard" :rolleyes: size bleed nipple?
 
PhaedrusMC said:
Can it replace the grub screw, and be left in situ? Or must the bleed nipple be removed and the grub screw replaced after bleeding?
Click to expand...

Remove it and replace the grub screw. That is if the grub screw can be removed in the first place :D put the bleed unit in a cup of boiling water before you attempt to remove it as the grub screw gets seized and the hex is very easily rounded off...... If you can't remove the grub screw remove the complete spring loaded bleed unit and replace it with a bleed nipple.
 
Steptoe said:
Remove it and replace the grub screw. That is if the grub screw can be removed in the first place :D put the bleed unit in a cup of boiling water before you attempt to remove it as the grub screw gets seized and the hex is very easily rounded off...... If you can't remove the grub screw remove the complete spring loaded bleed unit and replace it with a bleed nipple.
Click to expand...

Thanks. :thumb2

Seems to me that removing the OE bleed unit and replacing it with a bleed nipple (maybe a Stahlbus or SpeedBleeder?) is the optimal route, in terms of future convenience?

I take i this involves:

1. Remove the part that I've circled in red (this is the bleed unit?).
2. Leave in place the part I've circled in green.
3. Fit a bleed nipple to the part I've circled in green (same size bleed nipple as fits the bleed unit?)
4. Live happily ever after.

NOT MY PIC! Apologies to owner if me using it here is uncool.

R1150GS Clutch Bleed 1.jpg
 
Yup exactly what Steptoe says

M10 Bleed nipple (If I recall correctly)

on the ABS unit HR bleed nipple is the rear wheel and VR is the front wheel circuit
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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