What I did to someone else's bike today
- Thread starter MikeP
- Start date
Sort of Mike. The K75 clutch pushrod is fitted via the front of the gearbox and means that the re-fitting of the gearbox requires much more care lining it all up. The K100 pushrod is fitted from the back so it's so much easier, almost like chucking it at the bike.Technical term no doubt....
Onwards. First thing this morning I re-fitted the alternator and starter motor.
The clutch pushrod, spring and cover went back in.
Then it was the swingarm:
Along with the Paralever bar:
With the swingarm back in, I adjusted the clutch.
Final-drive and suspension strut:
Before re-fitting the rear brake disc, I cleaned the retaining screw threads of the old Loctite:
Then re-fitted the disc, fresh Loctite and torqued-up:
The back wheel is on temporarily:
So that I can wheel it outside to rinse it off before cleaning up the frame for a coat of polish.
That'll be it for now. I have a planned RV with former Moderator, self confessed by-way wafter and great travelling companion, Clive (and the fragrant Mandy of course). They are meandering about Devon in their wobbly-box and luncheon beckons.
Thanks but North Devon savages scare me too much.
Made a start on the mucky process of cleaning the gearbox casing:
.
what do you use to bring he ali up like that ??
ignore that, just read post 43, must not read threads backwards !!!
ShellOil
Registered user
Is there any chance you could post a photo of said brushes? Also what detergent do you use?
Thanks
Steve
Brushes like this:
But more of them and a variety of sizes. Most places that you'd expect sell them, Machinemart, B&Q etc.
For stripping powder coat, I use a similar type of brass-wire cup-brush but in an angle-grinder.
Anything soapy. All the detergent does is get rid of any oily residue because that's what attracts the crap and causes staining.
Update to follow when Smugmug finishes uploading.
Smugmug is now working again.
Today I removed the plastic washers from the external fairing screws, rubbed them down and re-sprayed them (it doesn't look it but the collected screws are 50 quids worth so cleaning and re-painting makes sense):
Then a first coat of satin black. Nothing would look worse against the nice fairing paint than scabby fixings:
While the paint was curing, I replaced the foot-rest plates and the rear brake including the rear ABS pump:
That included replacing the snapped-off rider's right foot-rest:
The pin, spring, spacer and cotter-pin had a de-grease while the foot-rest rubber end plate was straightened in the vice.
Cleaned up the header pipe studs and re-fitted the nearside and offside lower fairing mounts:
Oh and contrary to what at least one person thought, the engine casings are not nice and shiny because I've squirted them with some sort of cockpit cleaner stuff. That's the original painted finish treated to a decent cut and polish.
Then back on with the exhaust system:
Unlike the K75, these have a one piece system some (but not this one) are catalyst equipped. Getting the new sealing rings in the exhaust ports while lining up the complete system requires three hands but I managed with just my two and a scissor jack.
There's a suspension point added to the stand sub-frame. The nut was missing when I stripped the exhaust and I wondered if it was because it wouldn't line-up but it went on okay.
Before packing in for the day I gave the faring screws a last coat of paint.
Today I removed the plastic washers from the external fairing screws, rubbed them down and re-sprayed them (it doesn't look it but the collected screws are 50 quids worth so cleaning and re-painting makes sense):
Then a first coat of satin black. Nothing would look worse against the nice fairing paint than scabby fixings:
While the paint was curing, I replaced the foot-rest plates and the rear brake including the rear ABS pump:
That included replacing the snapped-off rider's right foot-rest:
The pin, spring, spacer and cotter-pin had a de-grease while the foot-rest rubber end plate was straightened in the vice.
Cleaned up the header pipe studs and re-fitted the nearside and offside lower fairing mounts:
Oh and contrary to what at least one person thought, the engine casings are not nice and shiny because I've squirted them with some sort of cockpit cleaner stuff. That's the original painted finish treated to a decent cut and polish.
Then back on with the exhaust system:
Unlike the K75, these have a one piece system some (but not this one) are catalyst equipped. Getting the new sealing rings in the exhaust ports while lining up the complete system requires three hands but I managed with just my two and a scissor jack.
There's a suspension point added to the stand sub-frame. The nut was missing when I stripped the exhaust and I wondered if it was because it wouldn't line-up but it went on okay.
Before packing in for the day I gave the faring screws a last coat of paint.
Wonderful job so far Mike, and an engrossing read 
BTW, the therapeutic value of this renovation is obvious....your sense of humour has improved dramatically
BTW, the therapeutic value of this renovation is obvious....your sense of humour has improved dramatically
It's the spending of someone else's money that's therapeutic Bill.
So glad this is turning out to be mutually benificial...
I've got one of these on standby for its return
I've got one of these on standby for its return
I think this is illegal......It's certainly verging on pervy
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I guess if she is only there to keep the saddle warm and most then no one need object 
The paint on the fairing screws has cured but one of them had a badly chewed plastic washer and on another the washer was missing altogether.
Then I remembered that I had a couple of manky screws from my K1 in the bucket of old fixings:
They sacrificed their washers in a good cause:
My old bike will live on, albeit it a very small way, in a snug carcoon thing.
Next to get the clean and polish treatment was this:
Stripped:
Cleaned and polished:
I did raid my supply of stainless fasteners for a couple of nuts and the retaining screw:
That package from Motobins arrived this morning as I was working. The contents: New fuel filter, plugs, stainless rear calliper mounting screws and new tank badges (both those fitted are de-laminating):
A dab of aluminium anti-seize on the threads and in with the new plugs:
A squirt of this:
Then re-arrange the leads (they are handily numbered):
Fitted the stainless calliper mounting screws (another daub of aluminium anti-seize):
Using the feeler gauge from the pristine tool-roll, checked the ABS sensor gaps front and rear:
Finally, greased and re-fitted the gear pedal and linkage:
Hopefully, I'll get all the other little jobs done before the panels with the body shop are ready. Still to do:
Replace tank badges.
Change the fuel filter.
Re-fill the system with fresh coolant (25% anti-freeze).
Re-fill gearbox, final drive and engine oil.
Fit new battery.
Strip and re-spray battery retaining strap.
Re-fit Motronic unit.
Re-fit ABS control unit.
Re-set the ABS (fingers-crossed).
Re-route and secure all cables and wiring.
Re-fit both parts of rear mudguard.
Re-fit and adjust the bench seat release mechanism (the seat wasn't fitting properly).
Both helmet locks need cleaning-up before the rear quarter panels go back together.
All the painted body panels that have not gone for repair need a cut and polish.
Happy days ahead.
Then I remembered that I had a couple of manky screws from my K1 in the bucket of old fixings:
They sacrificed their washers in a good cause:
My old bike will live on, albeit it a very small way, in a snug carcoon thing.
Next to get the clean and polish treatment was this:
Stripped:
Cleaned and polished:
I did raid my supply of stainless fasteners for a couple of nuts and the retaining screw:
That package from Motobins arrived this morning as I was working. The contents: New fuel filter, plugs, stainless rear calliper mounting screws and new tank badges (both those fitted are de-laminating):
A dab of aluminium anti-seize on the threads and in with the new plugs:
A squirt of this:
Then re-arrange the leads (they are handily numbered):
Fitted the stainless calliper mounting screws (another daub of aluminium anti-seize):
Using the feeler gauge from the pristine tool-roll, checked the ABS sensor gaps front and rear:
Finally, greased and re-fitted the gear pedal and linkage:
Hopefully, I'll get all the other little jobs done before the panels with the body shop are ready. Still to do:
Replace tank badges.
Change the fuel filter.
Re-fill the system with fresh coolant (25% anti-freeze).
Re-fill gearbox, final drive and engine oil.
Fit new battery.
Strip and re-spray battery retaining strap.
Re-fit Motronic unit.
Re-fit ABS control unit.
Re-set the ABS (fingers-crossed).
Re-route and secure all cables and wiring.
Re-fit both parts of rear mudguard.
Re-fit and adjust the bench seat release mechanism (the seat wasn't fitting properly).
Both helmet locks need cleaning-up before the rear quarter panels go back together.
All the painted body panels that have not gone for repair need a cut and polish.
Happy days ahead.
jesus as if i havnt enough to do , you making me think a K will sit nicely in the garage too 
not only that she will bloody kill me
not only that she will bloody kill me
If someone's paying you to strip clean and fix his bike, i'm assuming this thread is photographic evidence to claim the money
My costs so far are about a tenner for electricity and polish.
Last night I cleaned the "gloop" off the front-wheel fairing and this morning reassembled it on the bike:
This is rather like an eggshell in many ways; it's pretty fragile when in more than one piece but once assembled is fairly strong.
I don't think there can be any in existence that don't have tiny stress fractures around the point where it has to be fitted around the fork sliders and encouraged to slide into the rubber shroud.
You really cannot even polish it with any enthusiasm when it's off the bike but once in place, apart from the leading lower edges that are unsupported, it's quite strong.
Off out now to procure the new battery.
Last night I cleaned the "gloop" off the front-wheel fairing and this morning reassembled it on the bike:
This is rather like an eggshell in many ways; it's pretty fragile when in more than one piece but once assembled is fairly strong.
I don't think there can be any in existence that don't have tiny stress fractures around the point where it has to be fitted around the fork sliders and encouraged to slide into the rubber shroud.
You really cannot even polish it with any enthusiasm when it's off the bike but once in place, apart from the leading lower edges that are unsupported, it's quite strong.
Off out now to procure the new battery.
luke scott
Registered user
K1 V price of a kidney ..........
Would a kidney have raised the required amount of money The deal is done & funds are now in the bank account. All thats left is shipping the said red & yellow K1 to his in laws . I owe you a beer for the referral 
.
All through the past couple of days, I've been struggling with the realisation that I've put my mate onto what's probably one of the best red & yellow livery K1s around and the deal is done. I've never experienced such mixed feelings in my life. On the one hand I'm pleased for my mate and yet I hate the sod with a passion. If only I could have sold a kidney.
Would a kidney have raised the required amount of money
The deal is done & funds are now in the bank account. All thats left is shipping the said red & yellow K1 to his in laws . I owe you a beer for the referral .
Thanks for the beer Luke. I and some mates have started a book on how long it will be before Paddy drops it. He hasn't ridden any bike for ages so I sent him an email detailing the restricted steering lock, tendency to be a bit top-heavy at low speeds, fragility of the plastic and the feet behind the ears riding position.
He's already offered it to me for what he paid you plus shipping. I've more horror stories to tell him, by the time I've finished he'll be begging me to take it for free.
He hasn't ridden any bike for ages so I sent him an email detailing the restricted steering lock, tendency to be a bit top-heavy at low speeds, fragility of the plastic and the feet behind the ears riding position. He's already offered it to me for what he paid you plus shipping. I've more horror stories to tell him, by the time I've finished he'll be begging me to take it for free.
Dumb question of the day.......
Why have plug cap 2 facing forwards so you've got that extreme bend in it?
Couldn't it face backwards then take out the slack elsewhere?
Why have plug cap 2 facing forwards so you've got that extreme bend in it?
Couldn't it face backwards then take out the slack elsewhere?
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