'93 Cali 3 carbed version

ELIMINATOR said:
Stop playing on my phobias.:rolleyes::p:augie

Think I'll just ride it.:D
Click to expand...

Me!! Nah!

Seriously. Taken from a Guzzi site:-

"The front engine mounting bolt is apt to lock solid with corrosion due to all the spray chucked onto it by the front tyre. At yearly intervals, make sure you can loosen this bolt; soak with anti-sieze solvent as necessary and then lubricate with engine oil or grease before retightening."
 
i've personally never seen a seized in front engine stud, although i've heard of a couple, and seen some that are well on the way.

i regard removal and greasing as a service item.

i have personally seen at least 3 seized studs in bmw airheads though, and they are much trickier to remove.
 
Why would I want to remove that bolt anyway? (You have sown the seed though:rob:blast:confused::p:p:p:p:p)

Might as well loosen every bolt on the bike to make sure it's not seized. I am however spraying ACF50 on any bolt thread that is exposed, and any female thread that I can see.:thumb

Petrol tap seems to be working, I can hear / feel the tap being turned with the remote tap.
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Why would I want to remove that bolt anyway? (You have sown the seed though:rob:blast:confused::p:p:p:p:p)

Might as well loosen every bolt on the bike to make sure it's not seized. I am however spraying ACF50 on any bolt thread that is exposed, and any female thread that I can see.:thumb

Petrol tap seems to be working, I can hear / feel the tap being turned with the remote tap.
Click to expand...

To access behind the timing cover, or to remove the engine from the frame, to change the clutch/work on the gearbox internals.

Nothing will help you with the front cover lower bolt once it's seized. You can coat it in as much goo as you like on the threads but the issue doesn't stop there. It corrodes itself to the casting and is 3 1/2 pigs to remove!
 
at least on a guzzi you can cut it off and just ditch the timing cover. with bmws, it's harder to cut out and then you line bore or get new crankcase.

i'd take yours out if it will come, and my experience suggests it probably will, then grease and replace. this job is much easier if you have another stud to knock it through with. saves pissing about with jacks.

if it is stuck, you're no worse off than if you ignored it.
 
Mike O said:
I opened up this thread because I was intrigued as to how Guzzi had fitted three carbs on a twin...

Mike :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Now you got me wondering if the '1 into 2' fuel injection off the new 750's would fit a Cali 3. :blast

mmm... would be neat if it worked. :)
 
JayC said:
How would the engine be removed from the frame then?
Click to expand...


it's very possible he may never have to, and if he does, it'll be stuck just the same. it won't get worse than seized solid :nenau


he might have to change a timing chain though :augie
 
Took my 19mm spanner to the front engine bolt tonight:eek::blast:rolleyes:

Should I be doing this I thought:confused:

Low and behold it rotated, I hasten to add, so did the nut on the end of this rather long bolt.:thumb2
 
Nut on the end of the spanner is pleased that tomorrow is Friday.:D
 
After my oh so long saga of the rusty silencer brackets on my r100rt. I replaced the M/S nuts on my very new looking Guzzi silencer's mounting brackets with S/S ones, and a healthy blob of copper grease.:blagblah
 
Loosened off the front engine bolt. frame opened out as the nut loosened, sprayed ACF50 everywhere, did the nut up, did the nut up, did the nut up.

it's stripped at the bite point:blast

Thought I'd have to get a new bolt, but will either put some washers behind it, or use a thicker nut, this one seems to be thinner than what i would consider standard.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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