Via Mediterra - The Journey around the Med on a HP2
- Thread starter kimangao
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kimangao
Registered user
Just a quick question Dirk, what happened that you managed to leap in the air leaving the bike behind in the last picture in your first post (apart from landing with a bump ....) is it photoshopped?
Maybe I should wait to read your story
Yes, maybe ;-) But it wasn't photoshopped.
Cheers
Dirk
OK, I'm in 
Brilliant photos. Must be good because no derisory comments ............YET
kimangao
Registered user
Thank you again for your encouraging comments.
Before we set of I'd like to introduce you to the bike and the route.
The bike is a BMW HP2 with standard framework and suspension. There are some gadgets on it like the additional tank (one left one right where assume an original tank). That means there are 3 reservoirs for fuel including the original one adding up to 33 liters. That should allow a range of about 600-700kms.
Unfortunately it is not my bike but it was (fortunately) given to me for that ride from a tiny aftermarket company in the German Black Forest. As you may imagine I still feel very privileged and thankful for that.
Ok now, lets have a look at the planned route:
As the starting point I've choosen Marseilles in France because it's with more than 2000 years the countries oldest city. Furthermore it was founded as a trading port by ancient greek tradesmen. From Marseilles the route was supposed to go anticlockwise to North-Africa and the Middle East as I was starting in spring and was trying to avoid the brain-evaporating heat of the African Summer there. But, what I didn't know at the planning stage, exactly that was about to happen ....
Two corners would be causing problems:
1. The border between Morocco and Algeria is closed for ages. I will try to do a little ferry-ping-pong Spain-Morocco-Spain-Algeria to solve the problem.
2. Israel. You shouldn't put a wheel on that country. If you do, neither Lebanon, Syria nor - in the other direction - Libya will let you enter. The plan is circuumnavigate Israel via Jordan.
Anyway, the final route that I did was this:
40.000 kms instead of the planned 22.000kms, 28 ferry crossings instead of 3 and uncountable moments I'd never expect to happen.
Cheers
Dirk
Before we set of I'd like to introduce you to the bike and the route.
The bike is a BMW HP2 with standard framework and suspension. There are some gadgets on it like the additional tank (one left one right where assume an original tank). That means there are 3 reservoirs for fuel including the original one adding up to 33 liters. That should allow a range of about 600-700kms.
Unfortunately it is not my bike but it was (fortunately) given to me for that ride from a tiny aftermarket company in the German Black Forest. As you may imagine I still feel very privileged and thankful for that.
Ok now, lets have a look at the planned route:
As the starting point I've choosen Marseilles in France because it's with more than 2000 years the countries oldest city. Furthermore it was founded as a trading port by ancient greek tradesmen. From Marseilles the route was supposed to go anticlockwise to North-Africa and the Middle East as I was starting in spring and was trying to avoid the brain-evaporating heat of the African Summer there. But, what I didn't know at the planning stage, exactly that was about to happen ....
Two corners would be causing problems:
1. The border between Morocco and Algeria is closed for ages. I will try to do a little ferry-ping-pong Spain-Morocco-Spain-Algeria to solve the problem.
2. Israel. You shouldn't put a wheel on that country. If you do, neither Lebanon, Syria nor - in the other direction - Libya will let you enter. The plan is circuumnavigate Israel via Jordan.
Anyway, the final route that I did was this:
40.000 kms instead of the planned 22.000kms, 28 ferry crossings instead of 3 and uncountable moments I'd never expect to happen.
Cheers
Dirk
kimangao
Registered user
The autotrain took me through the night from Düsseldorf/Germany and spit me out in Narbonne/France. Narbonne, almost on the foothills of the Pyrenees-Mountains, is already close to the Spanish border but my starting point Marseilles is about 260kms east.
My first ride went to a hill with a chapel, called Forca Real. From there you're facing Mount Canigou and the Pyrenees. If you turn around, well there's the sea, that will accompany me the next 9 months.
The region itself is called Pays de Cathare, the land of the Cathares. A hilly country full of ruins from ancient fortresses. Right here the only crusade against a Christian community took place, the Crusade against the Cathares. We'll see that lateron. Between me and the Pyrenees is the valley of Conflent. Just before Mount Canigou rises there's the village of Prades.
Before I set of for Marseilles I take a first look through the Pays de Cathare.
As you may have noticed, the bike is not white but gray instead. The should have been white, but the tank manufacturer in OZ could not deliver a white tank. So I start the journey on a gray HP2, waiting to swap colour and bike lateron.
My first ride went to a hill with a chapel, called Forca Real. From there you're facing Mount Canigou and the Pyrenees. If you turn around, well there's the sea, that will accompany me the next 9 months.
The region itself is called Pays de Cathare, the land of the Cathares. A hilly country full of ruins from ancient fortresses. Right here the only crusade against a Christian community took place, the Crusade against the Cathares. We'll see that lateron. Between me and the Pyrenees is the valley of Conflent. Just before Mount Canigou rises there's the village of Prades.
Before I set of for Marseilles I take a first look through the Pays de Cathare.
As you may have noticed, the bike is not white but gray instead. The should have been white, but the tank manufacturer in OZ could not deliver a white tank. So I start the journey on a gray HP2, waiting to swap colour and bike lateron.
kimangao
Registered user
Prologue
From Narbonne I'm riding straight to Marseilles.
If you - like me - live north of the Alps you're dreaming the same dream every year after a looong winter: The dream of the warm south. But Marseilles is not the place to make your dream come true in March. Icy winds from the still snowy Alps blow down the Rhône-Valley and then blast through Marseilles with its narrow roads.
Marseilles was founded by Greek sailors over 2000 years ago as trading port. This town smells like history, salty air and the promise of the nearby Orient. Marseilles is France's gateway to Northern Africa.
Riding through the streets my fingers feel like fish fingers you've taken out of the deep freezer only 2 minutes ago. I need a place to warm up. But quickly!
Right at the old port there's the Restaurant Le Miraramar. From what I've heard, a good place to enjoy the Bouillabaisse, the famous Marseillan fish soup. Well, a hot soup would be perfect....
I'm surprised to be welcomed by the cook himself, Christian Bouffa. What I learned lateron is that he is a disciple of French cook legend Paul Bocuse.
Anyway, after ordering the soup, the waiter arrives with something not really beeing similar to a soup. "This is just a starter to kill time till the soup is ready". He speaks of course French and my French is a bit ... rotten. The first misunderstanding is on its way. His next question is not: "What do you prefer to eat, chicken and shrimps or (in the background) Manchego-cheese with truffles?"
The question was:"What do you prefer to eat first? Chicken or Manchego?" Ok, first chicken, then Manchego. But... what about the soup?
He arrives again and explaines that they usually serve the soup in six courses.
Can you imagine? Six times this plate? I ask for a shortcut resulting in four courses.
Then a specially trained dessert-waitress shows up to ask me about my wish for a my sweet tooth. I go for something small (Mousse au chocolat with coconutcream) after the Manchego-chicken-four-courses-soup only to find out that this again is only the starter.
Here's the dessert-menu then. Not to forget the nasty things left from the wineglass.
From the restaurant I go straight back to my room in a small hotel. It's about 4 in the afternoon. I decide to take a little nap and to get rid of the fear my stomach may explode. I wake the next day at 10 in the morning. Setting off is postponed for one day. But who cares? I have nine month
From Narbonne I'm riding straight to Marseilles.
If you - like me - live north of the Alps you're dreaming the same dream every year after a looong winter: The dream of the warm south. But Marseilles is not the place to make your dream come true in March. Icy winds from the still snowy Alps blow down the Rhône-Valley and then blast through Marseilles with its narrow roads.
Marseilles was founded by Greek sailors over 2000 years ago as trading port. This town smells like history, salty air and the promise of the nearby Orient. Marseilles is France's gateway to Northern Africa.
Riding through the streets my fingers feel like fish fingers you've taken out of the deep freezer only 2 minutes ago. I need a place to warm up. But quickly!
Right at the old port there's the Restaurant Le Miraramar. From what I've heard, a good place to enjoy the Bouillabaisse, the famous Marseillan fish soup. Well, a hot soup would be perfect....
I'm surprised to be welcomed by the cook himself, Christian Bouffa. What I learned lateron is that he is a disciple of French cook legend Paul Bocuse.
Anyway, after ordering the soup, the waiter arrives with something not really beeing similar to a soup. "This is just a starter to kill time till the soup is ready". He speaks of course French and my French is a bit ... rotten. The first misunderstanding is on its way. His next question is not: "What do you prefer to eat, chicken and shrimps or (in the background) Manchego-cheese with truffles?"
The question was:"What do you prefer to eat first? Chicken or Manchego?" Ok, first chicken, then Manchego. But... what about the soup?
He arrives again and explaines that they usually serve the soup in six courses.
Can you imagine? Six times this plate? I ask for a shortcut resulting in four courses.
Then a specially trained dessert-waitress shows up to ask me about my wish for a my sweet tooth. I go for something small (Mousse au chocolat with coconutcream) after the Manchego-chicken-four-courses-soup only to find out that this again is only the starter.
Here's the dessert-menu then. Not to forget the nasty things left from the wineglass.
From the restaurant I go straight back to my room in a small hotel. It's about 4 in the afternoon. I decide to take a little nap and to get rid of the fear my stomach may explode. I wake the next day at 10 in the morning. Setting off is postponed for one day. But who cares? I have nine month
kimangao
Registered user
Thank you Nutty,
I'm doing a lot of ride reports for magazines in Germany and I know the TT-boys for some years. That's why I from time to time get a bike from them. It's nevertheless extraordinary for me to receive a bike for such a long time.
Hope you keep enjoying,
cheers
Dirk
I'm doing a lot of ride reports for magazines in Germany and I know the TT-boys for some years. That's why I from time to time get a bike from them. It's nevertheless extraordinary for me to receive a bike for such a long time.
Hope you keep enjoying,
cheers
Dirk
Nice one Dirk.
Are Touratech paying for you to stay in posh hotels and eat nice food as well?
If so, do you need a support crew, as I'm sure I could round up a few troops from here!
Brilliant
Deleted account 210609001
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Brilliant so far - keep it coming! As has been said before, amazing photos.
I laughed out loud seeing the comparison between your planned route and your actual route.
I laughed out loud seeing the comparison between your planned route and your actual route.
kimangao
Registered user
Brilliant report keep it coming your pictures are fantastic....
Thank you, George. My pleasure
Dirk
kimangao
Registered user
I laughed out loud seeing the comparison between your planned route and your actual route.
The funny thing to me is, that if I'd known before what would happen on that journey, I would have nevertheless done it.
kimangao
Registered user
My missus has asked how much did your soup cost haha....
Hm, the soup itself will have been something like 50 or 60 Euros. Plus entries, desert, wine. But hey, a once in a lifetime dinner... And I was sure: Other days will some suffering will be coming ;-) So I spoiled myself as it was possible.
kimangao
Registered user
This is my inofficial setting-off day. Inofficial because I'm still waiting for the white HP2. But the white tank hasn't made it's way from OZ to Europe yet. I decide to leave beautiful Marseilles now to stroll around. I'll be back here for the official start
On top of the hill you see Marseilles landmark, the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde.
This monument is the visual gateway to Northern-Africa where France held territories for a long time. I'll be there soon, in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia. That's at least what I believe now. But who knows his fate? Planning often replaces contigency by error.
I'm following the rocky coastline a bit until I reach the vast beaches west of Marseilles. A good spot to regain some riding abilities on tracks and on sand.
The plage de L'Espiguette is completely abandonned in early spring. Perfect!
This is the first time I say "Halleluja, what a bike!" I've been riding an HP2 one or two years ago in Tunisia for a short while but I've completely forgotten how easy and powerful at the same time this thing behaves.
The plage de L'Espiguette and the nearby town of La Grande Motte is the first chance to meet an email-friend, Thierry. Not knowing each other before, he told me that I will necessarily pass his home when circuumnavigating the Med. It's right on the shore and if I only follow the coastline I cannot miss it.
Ok, somewhere over there ...
On top of the hill you see Marseilles landmark, the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde.
This monument is the visual gateway to Northern-Africa where France held territories for a long time. I'll be there soon, in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia. That's at least what I believe now. But who knows his fate? Planning often replaces contigency by error.
I'm following the rocky coastline a bit until I reach the vast beaches west of Marseilles. A good spot to regain some riding abilities on tracks and on sand.
The plage de L'Espiguette is completely abandonned in early spring. Perfect!
This is the first time I say "Halleluja, what a bike!" I've been riding an HP2 one or two years ago in Tunisia for a short while but I've completely forgotten how easy and powerful at the same time this thing behaves.
The plage de L'Espiguette and the nearby town of La Grande Motte is the first chance to meet an email-friend, Thierry. Not knowing each other before, he told me that I will necessarily pass his home when circuumnavigating the Med. It's right on the shore and if I only follow the coastline I cannot miss it.
Ok, somewhere over there ...
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