1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar Restoration

...and clear lacquering ali is never very successful anyway.

Well what a palaver. The smashed screen was a French-made 'Secdem' which I bought from MotoBins a few years ago but I noticed that Motorworks sell a slightly taller screen, possibly a 'Skidmarx' so I ordered that. Well it promptly arrived today and I noticed that they'd sent me a post-91 screen and (you've guessed it) it won't fit. The Secdem had two mounting holes either side and lined up perfectly, whilst the new one has holes and slots and fails completely to line up. When sat on the saddle, the special mounting bolts splay out from the instrument panel at nearly 45deg but the new screen's edges lay parallel to the bike's centre line. No amount of rubber and/or packing would make it fit, so the screen is going back and I've ordered another Secdem.

I had thought about the MRA Vario ( I had one on the Pan and it was excellent) but as I could see the screen plus fitting kit begining to exceed £120 I drew the line at that.

Cookie, I had also heard that anodising old alloy wheel rims was also fraught with problems as it was impossible to eliminate tiny amounts of corrosion from around the spoke nipple holes. But that's only heresay.

I am taking a ride up to see Rich at Hagons next week to check the looseness of the spokes. It seems the unique cross lacing of the BMW wheels means the spokes would not be as taught as conventional spoked wheels but for peace of mind, I'll let him look at them. I wonder how many of us riders are aware that the spoke nipples at the hub end of the spokes have minute grub screws (M2?) to lock them tightly?

Just back from visiting Rich (the wheel builder) at Hagons. As I thought he felt the spokes in the front wheel weren't right so I took the wheel out and gave it to him to sort out. The disc needed to be removed to gain access to the nipples. All the nipples needed at least 1/4 of a turn which is odd as he found the tiny grub screws had not budged a jot. Still all back together now and a pretty cold ride to Hainault and back. I must search for my balaclava and wire up the heated Gerbing gloves.

I am running the engine in (500 miles, 4000rpm, 60mph) and the engine after 500miles is nice and sweet. So a further 500 miles, 4500rpm, 70mph and she should be just about there.

Incidentally the official Rider's Handbook says the following -

0 to 1000km - up to 4000rpm max
1000 to 2000km - up to 4500rpm max
After 2000km - gradually increase to max engine speed 7250rpm

Paul Rochdale said:

All the nipples needed at least 1/4 of a turn which is odd as he found the tiny grub screws had not budged a jot.

Click to expand...

When I used to do motocross, the first thing you would always have to do without fail after the first ride on a brand new bike was tweak up the spoke tension. It was also part of the weekly maintenance / check regime but it was only ever after the first use that any significant tweaking was required. Don't think it's anything to do with the nipples moving - more about the spokes needing to be worked/ stretched a little bit before they reach a more stable condition.

Whilst I find the bike comfortable, after a while the firm single seat does cause an aching bum. Worse are the diagonal seams which seemed to cut into the backs of my thighs. I found that getting off the bike, even after a short ride, I would get a crippling cramp in the back of my right leg. I discovered a local upholsterer Viking Motorcycle Seats (www.viking-motorcycle-seats.co.uk) run by Lee Hutchings, the advert of which in Real Classic mentioned the addition of Memory Foam. As our mattress is a Memory Foam, and we both know how comfortable that is, I rode over this morning to his workshop at Ash (close to Brands Hatch) where he offered to adapt the seat whilst I waited. After a Black Pudding doorstep sandwich and a mug of tea in the café opposite, I returned to his workshop to find him putting the finishing touches to the seat. The BMW foam was removed and hollowed out, thereby retaining it's shape. Then Memory Foam was inserted into the cavity and the foam re-glued to the seat base. Using the existing seat cover as a template, Lee made a new one in red vinyl but with the painful seams of the previous seat removed. Glued and stapled in place, the job was finished in just over the hour and I could ride away, £100 lighter and much more comfy.





Even if the roads are only slightly wet, the mudguards make a poor job at keeping the engine clean, and in particular the front one. Unable to find original BMW mudflaps to suit the model, I made these from 4mm polypropylene Sparco mudflaps intended for rally cars. Easily cut with sissors too. I found these on eBay for a few pounds and a pack of two would make four flaps for any bike. M4 stainless steel screws and nyloc nuts, with s/s brackets, completed the job.



As so the bike is just about complete. I've 'plumbed in' the wiring for the electrically heated Gerbing gloves now, which is much appreciated as the temps drop in December. Bit by bit I am going over the bike and replacing odd fasteners, such as the Torque Arm lower bolt for instance, with s/s.

You may recall the problem I had with my old Kryptonite D-lock. The lock had given me good service in the 25yrs since I bought it but I had mislaid the spare tubular key some years ago. A short while ago I realised I'd also lost the remaining one. I contacted Kyptonite's Head Office in Canton, MA, in the US who were unable to help even though I had discovered the key number somewhere. Then the UK agents Ingersoll Rand emailed me to tell me to post the old lock to them and the'd willingly replace it with a new one. This week a brand new Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 LS D-lock arrived, along with three keys. What excellent service!

Just as I thought things were too good to be true, the engine developed a hesitation this morning at speeds below 40mph. A small surging and faltering. It may be a loose wire beneath the tank but being almost full and pretty unwieldy to remove with so much fuel, it will have to wait. Except for this, the bike is a joy to ride, much lighter than the Pan, very much Old School, and a relief to be able to reach the road surface at last.

Ooh. I do like that.

Gives me an idea. New cover on the dual seat, but without the horizontal seams.

A mistake I made (Good grief, not another one?) was to replace the standard R100GS-PD steel handlebars for a pair of Renthal-like alloy bars bought on eBay. I found these far, far too low so fitted a pair of Migsel risers. Still a bit too low so I bought a pair of Renthal alloy handlebars in gold (Road Bike High 756-01-GO) also bought on eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370175369...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1893wt_1117

The quality far exceeds the ally cheapies so I fitted them this morning. They are just about the same dimensions as the standard bars but fitting them wasn't at all straightforward.

The bars are 7/8" or 22mm however the clutch end is knurled and this diameter increases to 22.5mm, not a lot but enough to make it impossible to fit the clutch lever assembly onto the end. It was an interference fit. I resorted to filing the knurling off and cleaning the bar up with emery cloth but eventually it slid on. As there was so little slack on the cables and wires it was a bugger so get both clutch and throttle assemblies onto the bars. Even worse were the hand guards which took ages to get the inner bolts in. All the time I was keen not the scratch the paintwork. I guess at the same time I could have fitted the foam grips I'd bought years ago but that's a job for another day. With the new(er) handlebars and the reupholstered seat, I think she's going to be pretty comfortable.

Paul Rochdale said:

The quality far exceeds the ally cheapies so I fitted them this morning. They are just about the same dimensions as the standard bars but fitting them wasn't at all straightforward.

The bars are 7/8" or 22mm however the clutch end is knurled and this diameter increases to 22.5mm, not a lot but enough to make it impossible to fit the clutch lever assembly onto the end. It was an interference fit. I resorted to filing the knurling off and cleaning the bar up with emery cloth but eventually it slid on.

Click to expand...

I know what you mean Paul, had exactly the same 'problem' when fitting new Renthals to my army special !

When I got back from a chilly ride down to Ramsgate seafront yesterday, I gave the bike a quick checkover and discovered a bloomin' split on the front driveshaft gaiter. Looking back at #145 I can just about make up the starting of the split a couple of weeks ago. This was a right bugger to fit a mere 1000 miles ago and the replacement was one specially made for Motorworks with slightly more generous dimensions to make fitting easier. Now either I pierced it when I fitted it or they simply aren't man enough for the job. I might try some SuperGlue to see if that holds (it probably won't) then send off for another replacement. Damn!

I've been running the rebuilt engine in now (500 miles - 60mph max, 500 miles - 70mph max) so it's time for an oil and filter change, then back to Jim Cray for final final tuning. It's till missing at low revs making town riding awkward. Jim had said to return it after I'd put some miles on her so see if the missing had cleared. It hasn't.

Try to buy an OE gaitor...much better/superior rubber.

I had a look at it this morning and the split is in the 'pleat' of the gaiter and about 1" long. I've decided to try a couple of beads of black silicone sealant in the groove as I wasn't able to bring the edges of the split together using glue. Funny you say that the replacement is inferior as it seems to be an improved design by Motorworks with more generous dimensions to make fitting easier. I shall try my fix (bodge) first and speak to Motorworks about getting another for when it fails again.

No news is sometimes mistaken for good news. I whipped the gearbox out a while back as it was clearly weeping from mostly the rear seal, and dripping out of the lowest part of the final drive. Jim Cray replaced both in a couple of days and it's now refitted. Also the gearbox-to-swinging arm gaiter I replaced and this time it's holding together.

A trip down to Devon last week has showed up a worrying symptom with the back wheel. There's movement there. I took the bike to Jim again this morning and after a good search, the following was diagnosed. The new stainless steel spokes in the rear wheel have 'relaxed' and I need to return the wheel to Hagons to have them tightened by the original builder. Jim says this is a common occurrence with s/s spokes.

There was also a strange noise when the rear wheel was spun and Jim reckons the crown wheel/pinion bearing is wearing badly, as the final drive oil was black when he drained it. When I dipped my finger in the filler hole the other day I only saw the clean oil at the top of the FD as the muck had dropped down to the bottom.

Oh well, it'll be money well spent as my Round the Baltic ride is only four or five weeks away, and they need doing. Arriving back after seeing Jim, I noticed the FD was to hot to touch with my hand. Hmm.

Paul Rochdale said:

Oh well, it'll be money well spent as my Round the Baltic ride is only four or five weeks away, and they need doing. Arriving back after seeing Jim, I noticed the FD was to hot to touch with my hand. Hmm.

Click to expand...

Are the shoes maybe not releasing?

What Grade oil did you put in the FD?? Was it GL4 or GL5?

GL5. Nothing wrong with the back brake as Jim backed it right off before resetting it. No with the 12 oclock 6oclock test a millimetre or so of play could be seen where the FD meets the hub.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Time to pop the cover off then and get the Bearing checked

I just had one tonight Thought I'd nip it in for a quick service and I ALWAYS drop the gear oil and FD oils

FD oil full of sparkling silver bits (The finger below is just a small sample mostly on the drain plug magnet)

Oil changed Sept 2012 just under 6,000 miles ago Ep75W90 GL5 fully synt........cause of failure ????

Judging by the rear calliper seized on the sliders and evidence of water corrosion in the FD bearing casing = Powerwash ingress

Had I left it and not changed it ...... as per

33 00 501 Oil change, rear wheel drive *) every two years or every 40,000 km

Click to expand...

He'd be a very sorry person

Basically its less than a tenner for the gear oil and whilst its a pain in the arse 20 mins refilling its sure as heck better than a bearing failure somewhere remote

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/7pATmfX6Ad0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I think in my instance, it's just a case of old age, the bearing's not mine. I've always pampered by bike with far more frequent oil changes than recommended and better quality oil than recommended. I've booked the bike in with Jim for 5th June. What with that and re-tightened spokes, I will have a secure rear end, oh Matron, for my Round the Baltic trip in five weeks.

PS My stainless steel drain plugs come without magnets, something I must rectify.

Old thread and Paul not posted since last year but I was wondering if anyone knows how the reground cranks fared. I've read that they should not be reground as it destroys the nitralised hardening on them, which is apparently nearly impossible to redo.

Paul Rochdale said:

Pete
If you have a close look at the cable as it clips onto the end of the brake pedal, as the brake goes on, the cable is pulled upwards instead of straight out horizontally. I've not tried it but Simon McCarthy (who wrote the motorcycle travel book 'Sorebums') highly recommends it. When I briefly rode the PD six years ago, the rear brake was pretty poor so I feel this is worth doing. If it doesn't improve things, the next step is softer brake linings.

Click to expand...

Paul,
just stumbled across this fred here, and stole your pics (hope you don't mind, with citation).
Supplement: the brake lever before 90 has a slightly different geometry, and is "better" than the later one.

EDIT: just noticed, that you already had a Pre-90 lever.

Post-90 lever:

Pre-90 lever: