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Thread: 1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar Restoration

  1. #49
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    This project is becoming a bit of a money pit as I half expected. My way of looking at it is that I've never owned a brand new bike and this will be the nearest to one. At least I am spending the money in dribs and drabs rather than one great lump, and I am getting a lot of satifaction doing much of the work myself.

    Yesterday I took over a pile of parts (crash bars, roo bars, pannier frames, timing cover, etc) to my favourite powdercoaters in Dartford, and they should take a couple of weeks to do. Those Touratech frames certainly add a lot of strength to the rear subframe and are well made.

    I spent quite a while struggling to remove the old short braided oil hoses from the oil cooler as I intend to fit it under the headstock. The steel hoses are screwed into alloy nipples at each end of the oil cooler and they'd both seized on. It's SO EASY to damage the oil cooler by heaving around with big spanners but after a couple of days soaking in WD40, one side reluctantly came undone. The other remained seized. I've tried grinding the side of the steel nut but stopped as I'm worried about damaging the alloy nipple. My gas gun has a broad flame which is useless for this sort of work so I'll see a friend today who has oxy torch. Last night I looked up the prices for a new oil cooler and longer braided hoses and nearly feinted. It's funny how some parts of this rebuild have been astonishingly cheap (powdercoating £85) and other parts have been eye wateringly expensive (engine - FFS!).

    Shortly I am going to have a go at rebuilding the wheels after getting monstrous quotes (£900 & £650) from firms. That should be theraputic

    No success in finding secondhand SS exhaust pipes so far. All of the usual sources tried without luck.

  2. #50
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    Right, mudguards and side panels off to the painter. The quote I got a couple of weeks ago at a motorcycle show from another professional was £220. My friendly painter = £100. If there's one thing about the red & white R100GS-Paris Dakar is that there's too much red and white. To me it looks unco-ordinated, so I am going for Marakesh Red (BMW Paint Code 222) for both mudguards and the side panels. No white. The petrol tank (red & white) and the fairing (Alpine White BMW Paint Code 146) are in good condition so will stay as original. A turn round of ten days.

    Oil cooler. Well after 48hrs drowning in WD40, the end of the hose STILL wouldn't budge, so ten minutes with a Dremel and a tiny burr and off it came. The alloy nipples must be made of the softest of alloy known to man. Oil cooler now shiny silver rather than matt black.

    Front Brake Caliper. When I briefly had the bike on the road six years ago, the front brake was so appalling I followed advice I found here and fitted a four-pot Brembo caliper (from a K1100 bike?) and an EBC Pro-Lite floating disc, so the braking performance went from 'bad' to 'poor'. The front brake should have been much better but as the bike was put in storage for six years, I would look into it later. Today I decided to dismantle (or disassemble if you are a Merrycan) the caliper. It all came apart pretty well although I shall fit new stainless socket head cap screws and locating pin as they were pretty rusty. The pistons took a while to come out. Using an airline from a compressor I was a bit taken aback at the force one piston shot out of the caliper. I replaced it and held it in place with a G-clamp (or if you are a Merrycan, a C-clamp) then more air and that also shifted. The two on the 'backside' of the caliper really didn't want to budge, but g-clamping in then undoing one at a time and with more air they started to come out in a controlled fashion. Two pistons (are they 'ceramic'?) have just the tiniest amount of corrosion but after dressing them with a really fine file I've decided to replace them anyway. The bores look fine and I can't see any marks on the seals but I shall replace these and the O-ring. I will be nice to have a front brake which improves from 'poor' to 'good'.

  3. #51
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    Is the K 1100 caliper a straight fit or do you have to machine the lugs that hold it to the fork leg ,and is it compatable with the original disc .Thinking of upgradeing mine .Cheers John

  4. #52
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    I've read an old post from Judge saying that Motorworks used to sell modified K1100 Brembo calipers but stopped doing so for fear of litigation. Fortunately I bought mine from them before that became the case (if that is the case). Yes, the casting needs machining by a tiny amount to get the centreline of the caliper to line up with the disc. If you want, I could measure the existing thickness of the lugs on mine so you'll know what to get machined off (That's if you are fitting the Brembo 4-pot to an R100GS-PD or something similar.

    As for compatibility, I replaced the original disc with the floating disc so they were compatible with each other, and with the modified Brembo fitted, rode the bike for a month or two before taking her off the road. No problems other than the front brake was still poor.

    I didn't find the conversion that good even with the floating disc and a braided brake hose, but this time I am properly overhauling the master cylinder internals and replacing two pistons and the seals in the Brembo. Hopefully that will do the trick. The brake pad pin is pretty corroded so I'll replace that and the bolts with stainless.

    Have a look at this link. No mention of how much material to remove but you'll get the drift -

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627723

  5. #53
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    It aint pretty but it is cheap.

    I bought a late 1150/1200 caliper on ebay for £30 and then made a bracket from Dural - £35 all in. The pads have lasted over 20k and are still only half worn.


  6. #54
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    I've just measured the modified thickness of the lugs on my Brembo and they are 12.28mm thick and milled to an 18mm radius around the two mounting holes.

  7. #55
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    Thanks Paul ,and Rob I,ll think it over now I know what could be involved

  8. #56
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    Right. I telephoned Motorworks this morning and discovered that the caliper pistons for the K1100 caliper originally came with the back of the pistons covered by a ceramic disc, and that as this disc is fragile, it can often break then the piston is removed. Hence all of my pistons I took out of the Brembo caliper were bucket-shaped yet the new ones are drum shaped.

    I have no idea what purpose these little discs have as the front brake worked well enough (but not brilliantly) like that.

    I must take an image of the two as clearly not many people understand what I am talking about.

    Well what a strange day. I received a couple of small parcels from Motorworks who have (in error) sent me TWO gearbox gaiters plus the overhaul kit for the master cylinder. I am going to have a good front brake even if it kills me.

    Motorworks now supply a slightly oversize gearbox gaiter which is easier to fit. In fact I think the rubber is a little thinner which makes it very difficult to fit rather than impossible. 1 1/2hrs later (Jeez!) it was in place.

    Next the Bevel drive. Well that was impossible. I even had the central heating man around who was once a motorbike mechanic and try as we might, we just couldn't get the male and female splines to engage. After two frustrating hours I put everything away and went to phone Jim Cray. Jim tells me that this is one of the most frequent problems from Airhead owners. Half the problem is at the Bevel Drive is heavy and one needs two pairs of hands. He tells me that the technique is to fit a couple of wheel bolts in the bevel drive to help turn the male splines (already done that) and to fit the torque arm bolt. This then will allow me to pivot the bevel drive around the torque arm bolt and line the male and female splines.. Then it's a matter, he says, of gently jiggling the female splined UJ with a screw driver and turning the wheel nuts. It should take between zero and five minutes (he said). I will go back to it tomorrow.

    I also, using the repair kit, fitted new seals and ceramic pistons in my K1100 4-pot caliper. The seals are a bit fiddly so I needed good light and the internals of the bores were immaculately clean and lubricated with the sachet of Brembo lubricant provided in the Motorworks kit. I was amazed at how difficult the pistons were to replace as I've refurbished car disc brake calipers in the past when just thumb pressure get's them back. Not this time. The pistons are also dead easy to to get cocked so needed checking regularly as I squeezed them in in the vice with lots of rag to protect them. Quite a bit of pressure was needed to get them home.

    Incidentally Motorworks DON'T recomend seperating the halves of the caliper, as it seems they are difficult to properly seal again afterwards. This is contrary to what the Haynes manual states. That's why the tiny O-ring where the brake fluid passes from one caliper half to it's neighbour is not provided so the old one has to be re-used. I also applied a very thin film of Hylomar sealant between the halves and tightened the socket hd cap screws down with a torque wrench, something I rarely bother with. The screws and caliper pin I bought from Chris Shaw Engineering (www.shawstainless.co.uk). The head are all turned down to remove the lettering and are immaculate. First class service too.

  9. #57
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    See the differences between the 'old' ceramic pistons and the new ones?



    Well that's the K1100 Brembo caliper sorted - new pistons, seals, ss bolts and pad pin.

  10. #58
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    Nice one Paul ,looking the biz,I,m more than likely gonna follow your caliper path as my orioginal is very slightly binding and one of the pistons is damaged thanks for the pics very informative.

  11. #59
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    Well at the second attempt, and following Jim Cray's advice, I eventually got the male and female splines to connect. It took twenty minutes and I thought it just wasn't going to happen. This time I attached the bevel drive to the torque arm and placed the pair into a wooden block. Then pivoting around the bottom bolt, it worked.

    I have cleaned up and re-used the Hagon shock absorber as it still functions OK although the spring has been powder coated. Pillion foot rests have had their steel spindles drilled out as they'd seized in the alloy. Now with stainless steel nuts and bolts, they are an improvement. I am going to modify the rear brake lever by following Simon McCarthy's (Sorebums) mod of cutting off and repositioning the top to get a straighter pull on the brake cable.

    The horn has been cleaned up and repainted today.

  12. #60
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    HOW TO MODIFY THE REAR BRAKE PEDAL (With thanks to Simon McCarthy)

    The original end of the rear foot brake pedal.


    Hacksaw end off as shown and turn through 90 degrees....


    ...and weld back as shown. I bevelled the edges prior to welding for better penetration.


    I have enlarged the small foot pad area as shown.


    And this is the end result. I have drilled a tiny 3mm hole in the boss to enable me to oil the bronze bush properly once the pedal has been re-installed.

  13. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Rochdale View Post
    HOW TO MODIFY THE REAR BRAKE PEDAL (With thanks to Simon McCarthy)

    The original end of the rear foot brake pedal.
    [URL=http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Paul_Narramore/media/BMW%20R100GS-Paris%20Dakar/IMG_3764_zps53cc71b3.jpg.html[/URL]
    Hi Paul

    What is the purpose of this mod?

  14. #62
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    Pete
    If you have a close look at the cable as it clips onto the end of the brake pedal, as the brake goes on, the cable is pulled upwards instead of straight out horizontally. I've not tried it but Simon McCarthy (who wrote the motorcycle travel book 'Sorebums') highly recommends it. When I briefly rode the PD six years ago, the rear brake was pretty poor so I feel this is worth doing. If it doesn't improve things, the next step is softer brake linings.

  15. #63
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    Well I got the 40mm Bing carburetors back yesterday after they'd been ultra-sonically cleaned. Absolutely immaculate. I'd looked at various film clips on YouTube which show an entire carb being lowered into the cleaner. I mentioned this to Dave Cunningham (TSR Vapour Blast Services of Otford, Sevenoaks) and he prefers to dismantle the carbs as he cannot see how carbs can be properly cleaned that way. Anyway they are mint and now back on the bike.

    The throttle is a bit stiff so perhaps I have routed the throttle cables wrongly. I must look into it tomorrow. Should have taken (even) more pics.

    The chap painting the mudguards in BMW Marrakesh Red had an accident and has spent a few days on traction in the local hospital so the mudguards won't get done until next week.

    I was buying some odds and ends from Motorworks this afternoon and discovered those thin rubber seals in the rear indicators are no longer available from BMW so I am looking for an alternative. Perhaps a large rubber O-ring can be used?

    I've spent some time stripping, cleaning and re-taping the wiring harness as the old cloth tape had had it. I used up what amalgamation tape I had. I called in at Maplins to find a large tape sells for £9.99. Good grief. I have seperated each joint and cleaned up every terminal before a protective coat of spray grease was applied. Once that instrument binnacle goes back on there's no way to work in it again so it must be right.

    The new owner came and collected my lovely old Pan European last night and I was sorry to see her go. I'd owned her for twelve years or so and ridden her on two big US trips plus many European countries. Sadly she's now too heavy for me these days and I was riding her less and less.
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  16. #64
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    Paul,

    You can use the front indicator mounts in the rear. They are an identical shape and cost a fraction of the rubber ones. The down side is they aren't flexible.

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