Tired and can't get the back brake to work

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Off to sleep on it but any pointers much appreciated, I'm sure it's something obvious but I'm just too tired to think straight....................

Back/front brake (linked) worked fine.

Took off both wheels for a week.

Wheels back on and I can't get any pressure up in the foot lever; no leaks (I can see) and the pads were not pushed back (calipers just lifted off the discs for wheel removal and put back on again).

:confused:

Any ideas?

Night, night.....................

Andres
 
Is that the same as the heavy weight trick ?? :nenau
 
Real men use wet towels........

Pliers trick? Do you mean tying the the lever to the bars over night?

Andres

Sleep, must sleep........
 
must be air in the system. how it got there :nenau



i've had similar mysterious and unexplainable guzzi brake issues myself. it's always the linked system and it will need bleeding.
 
cookie said:
must be air in the system. how it got there :nenau



i've had similar mysterious and unexplainable guzzi brake issues myself. it's always the linked system and it will need bleeding.
Click to expand...

Yup, been sat here trying to think what could have happened and have come to the same conclusion. Ah well, another job for tonight............

I've never bled the linked system before, is it just a case of bleeding the back brake through and then the front brake?

Thanks Cookie :)

Andres
 
Hmmmmm ... linked brakes ... bleeding brakes ...

Yer don't want to feck it up. I'd say that's a job for a proper machanic ... like Ste .... errr ... yeah .. find a proper mechanic ...
 
they can be easy, but are often a nightmare without some sort of power bleeder.

as yours has no resistance when pressing the lever, it will be probably hard to start moving fluid through the system.

IIRC you start bleeding the front, then the back, but TBH i'm not sure. doesn't make much difference as you'll almost certainly end up doing both calipers several times in turn.

i have occasionally got results by removing calipers and turning them so that air caught in the banjo bolts can escape. i suspect the splitter union of harbouring air bubbles too.

the books have all sorts of guff including removing the whole system and hanging it in a certain way to get the trapped air out. they don't mention that you can't remove the system without dismantling it though :blast


my best best advice: get a mityvac ;)
 
Giles said:
Hmmmmm ... linked brakes ... bleeding brakes ...

Yer don't want to feck it up. I'd say that's a job for a proper machanic ... like Ste .... errr ... yeah .. find a proper mechanic ...
Click to expand...

Ah,,,,,,yeah,,,,,,,,,,,,,but we're talking Moto Guzzi here not Canbus powered, ABSmethinged, traction controlled, fly by string partially water chilled WBM - so, should be a piece of piss (famous last words) :rolleyes:

Andres

EDIT: I've just read Cookie's post on how to bleed the system :eek:
 
cookie said:
they can be easy, but are often a nightmare without some sort of power bleeder.

as yours has no resistance when pressing the lever, it will be probably hard to start moving fluid through the system.

..................................
Click to expand...

Oh good :rolleyes:

Maybe not the quick job I had planned for this evening, best cancel tomorrow mornings MOT........

Proper job for the weekend then, bring it on :)

Thanks again :beerjug:

Andres
 
I had exactly the dame happen to mine a couple of times. Each time I just bled the rear caliper using a Mityvac and it did the trick. It hasn't happened since. HTH.
 
pliers trick

get some big pliers - clamp the rear hose as close to the distribution valve as possible -

pump the m/c - any resistance ?

yes - keep pumping till it gets harder

no - clamp the front and repeat.

no - clamp them both

retry from start.

no - remove calipers and push back the pistons to dislodge air bubbles.

use wooden block in calipers to stop pistons popping

refit

beer
 
Humbug said:
I had exactly the dame happen to mine a couple of times. Each time I just bled the rear caliper using a Mityvac and it did the trick. It hasn't happened since. HTH.
Click to expand...

Fingers crossed then - ta!

Kaister said:
pliers trick

get some big pliers - clamp the rear hose as close to the distribution valve as possible -

pump the m/c - any resistance ?

yes - keep pumping till it gets harder

no - clamp the front and repeat.

no - clamp them both

retry from start.

no - remove calipers and push back the pistons to dislodge air bubbles.

use wooden block in calipers to stop pistons popping

refit

beer
Click to expand...

Cheers Phil :) Unfortunatly (in this case) I've got braided lines.............

Andres
 
I've had good results in the past when I've stripped brakes with a length of fuel hose and a syringe - just pull it through with a vacume.
 
Beemerman59 said:
I've had good results in the past when I've stripped brakes with a length of fuel hose and a syringe - just pull it through with a vacume.
Click to expand...

Likewise, however for really stubborn jobs several peeps I know swear by Mityvacs or similar so I reckon I'll get one this w/e - always a useful thing to have around :)

Andres
 
Cookie, can I ask as I want to get one this w/e - is the hand pump Mytivac ok or do you use the compressed air line one?

Andres
 
Spooky. I just posted this on the Guzzi forum:

Just changed the fluid in the linked brakes, I wasn't sure if it was possible without help. Fortunately it was. The fluid came out clean from the front brake, a moment of concern with the back, the bleed nipple was tight.

Loosened in the end though, just about able to reach the spanner on the nipple while holding the brake pedal down. Thought there was a problem as when I closed the nipple, released the pedal, I had to pump the lever to get pressure again.

However, a quick road test has shown that the brakes are better than they were before I bled them. just hope I'm not saying this too soon.
Click to expand...
 
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