K1100R

If you can measure one of those screws, or post me one and I'll measure it, I'm pretty sure I could find some for you.:thumb
Thanks. I'll whip one out and send it to you. Can you PM me where to send it? Very kind of you.

Mike, It puzzles me why you've not bought/made a small blasting cabinet for yourself?
Bill, If I knew a couple of years ago that I'd be still grubbing about doing this, I probably would have bought one then. Each bike has been the last. This one will be I think.
 
You wouldn't know a source for the TB adjuster screws? BMW don't list them separately and I'm buggered if I'm going to buy new TBs just for a couple of screws.

The brass idle screws ? I'm sure I've a few spare k100 screws. I'll have a look over the next couple of days. Or do you mean the small threaded adjuster with the locknut ?
 
The adjuster Neil. Two of the three have the slot sheared off.

I have new by-pass screws, having ordered what I thought was the adjusters. :blast
 
I've lifted the engine back onto the bike lift and begun attacking it. One of the Hall Sensor cover plate screws has been sheared in the past. It's not been replaced and that has allowed corrosion to begin under the cover plate:

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My old K75C, despite much higher mileage and not having a fairing panel to protect the same cover:

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It just goes to show how much work a cheap cork gasket does (and can save).

The Hall Sensor retaining screws looked corroded in place. After a clean up, sure enough the upper one was solid, the hex-head began to round out even with heat applied so it was a case of resorting to the Star-key hammered in solution:

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Then it's off with the throttle body mounting rubbers, stuff tissue down the ports and then clean the mounting surfaces:

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Sealed (the tissue left inside) with good old gaffer tape:

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Two of the rubbers left their O-rings behind. I'll clean and inspect the rubbers to see if they are showing signs of perishing and replace them if necessary. New O-rings as a matter of course.

K1100LT%20%28294%29-L.jpg


Now the engine is resting upside down so that I can come at the remaining two exhaust studs and the sheared one.
 
Familiar woes. I just made a start on my recently acquired K75RT. Taxed and tested but had only done about 18 miles in the last two and a half years - two trips to get MoT's. New battery fitted in November, starts on the button and then you notice the coolant leak. Then you see the corrosion and and...

I'm going to get Og over here to do a job on it like yours Mike... :aidan
 
Got on with cleaning and inspecting the fuel injector inlet tubes:

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One is split at the mounting:

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Another potential poor running cause. The base showed that air had been getting sucked in under the body.

Cleaned everything and checked the others, all okay so just the one needed.

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The rubbers look okay but I've ditched them and will fit new ones.

Next job, remove the discs from the old front wheel. First thing was to removed the ABS sensor ring as it's no longer doing anything. Lots of heat on the screws, three came out easy, the hex-heads rounded on three so it was another star-key jobbie and off it comes:

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The discs look as though they are fairly new, very little wear but some pitting where the pads had seized-on. More heat on the mounting screws and out they came. Then I split the discs from the carriers:

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A couple of the roll pin equipped bobbins (there are three per side) had snapped roll pins.

K1100LT%20%28303%29-L.jpg


The bobbins have no obvious wear on them and all the e-clips and washers are good, just need a long soak to clean the clagged-on brake dust. I'll look them over properly once they've had a soak.

The discs have been cleaned with steel wool and brake cleaner. My micrometer shows virtually no wear on them at all.

K1100LT%20%28304%29-L.jpg


The disc carriers have been cleaned, rubbed down and given their first coat of paint:

K1100LT%20%28305%29-L.jpg
 
...
I'm going to get Og over here to do a job on it like yours Mike... :aidan

Marc is the man. His recycled K100R is what gave me the motivation for this project.
WTF?! :eek:
Youz must be joking :rolleyes: The only thing i've ever inspired people to do is .....
(fecked if i can actually think of anything now! :blast :D )
But having finally caught up with this thread i am suitably kicked up the aras to do more on the Guzzi.
Thank You Mike :thumb and to Ghiribizzo; :p
Oh - the Guzzi does definitely need a new battery i have worked out. That should get Her on the road - 'tidying up' can follow AFTERwards. ;)
My K100- developed an odd high tickover/slow to return to tickover while overheating in Xmas shopping traffic. Seems like (an untraceable :mad:) air leak? :nenau

Ahem! off topic. Sorry Mike.
...er... Bump. :augie
 
Cracking article , re comments about a blast cabinet, I have one and they are great BUT they are incredibly messy
buggers, mine is in a separate shed with a extractor system .
Put one in your garage and the dust will wreck your compressor, get into motors etc, they are killers to anything
mechanical
 
More cleaning and scraping today. The disc bobbins, washers and e-clips had all been soaking overnight in a jar of brake cleaner, then I scrapped away any crud and corrosion that was left. I only need three of the roll-clip bobbins.

K1100LT%20%28306%29-L.jpg


The disc carriers have had another rub down and the final coat of satin black so I set about removing the forks (at last). The fork brace on the 16v models is a flat steel affair on which is mounted the brake line splitter, then the whole thing is covered by a plastic cover held by a single self-tapping screw. Not many owners of this bike have ever removed it to give it a clean:

K1100LT%20%28307%29-L.jpg


The brake hoses are sound but scruffy. I'll clean them and paint the unions. Replacement stainless braided hoses are 40 quid for the pair, not a huge sum but my shopping list is becoming alarmingly long and it all adds up. Two new banjo bolts at 3 quid each won't break the bank.

There are a couple of things that I've not been looking forward to when it comes to the forks. The ABS sensor, or what's left of it to be precise, needs to come out:

K1100LT%20%28308%29-L.jpg


Someone has tried and the above is the result. Not pretty! So out with the hot-air gun and some mole-grips. It gave up in the end:

K1100LT%20%28309%29-L.jpg


Fair amount of white fluff in evidence. Also, someone has lost the drain screw for this leg and used a hoofing great long hex-head screw!

What's left of the ABS sensor:

K1100LT%20%28310%29-L.jpg


The other issue is that the side mudguard retaining screws have been replaced with stainless but no anti-seize applied. Inevitably they were seized solid. In the past I've had to drill some of these out and it can be a bit hit and miss what with the lugs being such soft metal. First try was the good old heat gun again. The lugs are not threaded so once or if the heat allows them to turn they can usually be tapped out as long as there's enough thread exposed.

I was lucky:

K1100LT%20%28312%29-L.jpg


Once I've got the lug to around 120 deg C, touch the exposed thread with a candle and the wax will melt and run down the thread helping to break the corrosion seal. The screws are junk:

K1100LT%20%28311%29-L.jpg


Well, one is done, hopefully the other will be as easy.
 
I set about the seized mudguard screws in the other fork today. If you go back to the start of this thread you'll see the photo of the bike as it arrived with me and that the forks had been fitted with gaiters. Given the general poor condition of much of this bike I was dreading what I'd find under the gaiters. I'm not a fan of gaiters. Apart from the two R100GS models I've owned that had quick-release clamps so that the gaiters could easily be pulled up now and then to inspect the stanchions and fork seals, most are held in place by cable-ties or hose clips and that discourages inspection.

K1100LT%20%28313%29-L.jpg


I can happily report that the stanchions are good and the fork seals appear sound. More by luck than anything as both gaiters were split:

K1100LT%20%28314%29-L.jpg


There was a lot of crap inside but as the original dust caps had been left in place and they'd glued themselves to the top of the slider to the point where I had to destroy them to get them off, I think that that is what had protected the fork seals more than the gaiters.

So for anyone encountering seized mudguard screws on a K-Brick here's how I get them out. First use a wire brush to remove surface corrosion and clean the exposed thread and lug as much as possible.

K1100LT%20%28317%29-L.jpg


Then heat the screw and the lug to around 110 to 120 deg C. Touch a candle to the screw and the melted candle wax will run down the thread and hopefully penetrate some of the way down. Then turn the screw back and forth to loosen it a little. Once it turns you can tap it down (remember that the lug is not threaded).

K1100LT%20%28316%29-L.jpg


Then use a drift to tap the screw down and out:

K1100LT%20%28318%29-L.jpg


Whether or not you use stainless replacements, given the location of these screws it makes sense to use plenty of anti-seize whenever they are disturbed. I've got into the habit of running a drill down the lugs to make them very slightly over-sized as that will reduce the chance of them seizing again.

I went to my local dealership with my shopping list today and after checking the prices, I've placed an order for the parts that they can supply cheaper than the other main specialists. Seals, o-rings, gaskets, 3 new disc bobbins, a new intake manifold, four new intake tubes and a new water temperature sensor, it still tips the scale at just over a hundred quid.

I saved forty quid by cleaning-up these:

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A bit pitted but sound:

K1100LT%20%28320%29-L.jpg


The hoses are good, so they've been masked and the unions are curing with a coat of paint. Forty quid is two-thirds of the cost of a new clutch friction plate.
 
While waiting for the three roll-pin bobbins to arrive, I cleaned the disc mounting screw threads and reassembled the offside disc:

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and fitted it to the "new" wheel:

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I've set about this:

K1100LT%20%28307%29-L.jpg


Cleaned back to bare metal, painted, cleaned the hoses and painted the banjos, new banjo bolts and washers:

K1100LT%20%28327%29-XL.jpg


Time to set about cleaning the clutch parts:

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Much scraping and wire brushing:

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There was quite a build-up of old friction material and some rust on the rim of the diaphragm spring where it contacted the spacer ring.

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All cleaned, paying particular attention to the three locating dowel pins of the cover so that hopefully it will come apart easier next time. I've renewed the balance marks as the cleaning left them a bit difficult to see:

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Time to reassemble the stands. New pivot pins:

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Another sub-assembly finished, just needs the wrap of protective tape on the cross bar:

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Still much to do.
 
Ghiribizzo......
:eek:
I now count my blessings;
My Bikes get attacked by 'green stuff' ~ moss. :blast
Yours - by 'brown stuff' ~ rust. :tears :banghead:

I can cure mine with Jeyes Fluid :D :p
 
Frame has been cleaned down, rusty bits dealt with and a few coats of satin layered-up

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K1100LT%20%28343%29-X2.jpg


Meanwhile, I've been getting on with the forks. Having got the seized ABS sensor out of it's mounting, there was a snapped screw left:

K1100LT%20%28341%29-L.jpg


I know it may seem a bit pointless as the ABS has been removed but like with the loom, I want to leave everything so that if a cheap, working ABS brain and modulators come my way, I or another owner, at some stage in the future could re-fit it.

Some heat and pipe grips got the snapped screw out, then the threads were cleaned:

K1100LT%20%28342%29-L.jpg


With the usual prep done, the sliders have been painted:

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A nice new temperature sender has arrived:

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So I've made a start on cleaning-up the block:

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That stained oil sight glass will have to go. I'll use the spare that's travelled around in my tool roll for years.

Scrape, scrape, brush, brush:

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It doesn't have to be perfect, it's not visible when it's all back together. I just want to be rid of the worst of the crap:

K1100LT%20%28346%29-L.jpg


Next job on the sump fins is to use some grit paper now that the loose stuff has been removed:

K1100LT%20%28345%29-L.jpg


The sump, the timing chain cover plus the crank and cam covers will be re-painted black eventually and the bellhousing will be silver like the transmission.

A very nice chap in Australia sent me his redundant K100C/K75C optional deflector screen for the price of the postage. This is no longer available and they're like rocking-horse poo. It was a bit scruffy but with some elbow grease it has come up okay. This is part way through the polishing:

K1100LT%20%28333%29-L.jpg


Still a fair bit to do before anything substantial can start to go back together but it shouldn't be too long now. I'm looking forward to getting to that stage.
 
Definitely an inspiration this.
Can I ask what you are using to apply 'heat' to the various bits that needed persuading out? I assume it is a hot air gun? Oh and is the wax candle the best way to determine what is enough heat?
Thanks.
 
Steve, yes a hot air gun or a butane blow torch with a narrow nozzle. I picked up a cheap infra-red thermometer (here on the forum actually) but some experience helps to guess when it's hot enough. For example, if the broken screw is stainless, once it's been cleaned, it will turn a pale gold colour when the heat is about right.
 


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