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Thread: Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT

  1. #1
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    Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT

    About to pull the box for a refurb and this is the stage I've got to. Only took a couple of hours.[IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Now having a cup of tea while contemplating the next stage which will take place inside the lock up once the silencer and cat have been removed via the angle grinder despatching the heavily corroded nut on the exhaust clamp.

    However ... I am not totally sure re lifting the rear subframe to get access to the gearbox. Does it lift over the airbox ok or does the airbox have to be removed? I've also read somewhere that the ABS controller has to be nudged forward?

    Words of wisdom welcome!

  2. #2
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    If I remember correctly I lifted the subframe up and the airbox stayed down, I then removed the airbox, I did not need to move the abs controller.



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    Be careful not to pinch any wires if lifting the frame by yourself. Do everything slowly and you will be ok. I just did mine a little while ago. I found that the wiring harness on the left side can catch onto the corner of the airbox as you lift and lower the frame! In my case I managed to stretch the wires, though stopped before breaking them!
    Good luck!

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    Dont forget that screw in the back of the airbox....

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    Did you slacken the bolt across the engine at the front of the subframe or not?

    Makes for an interesting realignment conundrum
    Oh Great and Wise Deity, Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change,

    Courage to change the things I can! And the wisdom to know the difference!

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    I have a nice Remus exhaust for one of those

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrFarkoff View Post
    Did you slacken the bolt across the engine at the front of the subframe or not?

    Makes for an interesting realignment conundrum
    Which bolt would that be then Jay? Not got to that stage yet.

  8. #8
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    the long engine bolt that goes through the lugs that are marked

    If you don;t slacken the the lugs bend and its a bollix to get the rest to line up again

    You only forget once!
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    Oh Great and Wise Deity, Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change,

    Courage to change the things I can! And the wisdom to know the difference!

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    Aha! Remove the Allan bolts and slacken the hex nuts so the sub frame actually pivots on them? Enlightenment dawns o wise one!

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    Thought I might turn this thread into a diary of the job for others planning to do it. As long as they are not in a hurry - I'll be taking my time over the winter.

    Today's task was to remove the cat. The angle grinder came out of hibernation since the nut and bolt on the clamp were completely fused with rust. 5 minutes in a shower of sparks - job done. Only to find that the two 13mm nuts securing the belly of the cat to the centre stand sub frame were not inclined to budge. So a pause while I get a cup of tea and obtain a better quality spanner than the ALDI cheapie which serves for the easy jobs. OK, buy cheap, buy twice etc etc.

    To be continued ...

  11. #11
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    An early Xmas pressie

    Bought a set of these. They also have the "professional" versions available at £3 a pop but the Adv Prof seemed a decent deal and got good reviews.

    However. sod's law operating as ever, even my new shiny spanners could not tackle years worth of corrosion so the grinder came out again. One of the silentbloc mountings for the cat had already sheared so it took 30 secs for the disc to go through the other one on the offside. Being VERY careful as it is pretty close to the sump!

    Once that was done, it took seconds to pull off the cat and silencer and use mole grips to loosen the frame fixings on the silentblocs. I'll probably demount the whole sidestand / centre stand sub frame later and do a bit of paint refurbishment while I'm at it. I'll remove the nuts from cat before refitting with new silentbloc mountings.

    These jobs just grow and grow!

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    That's all for today. Next step is to pull the starter. (Migh as well re-condition that while I'm at it!) Then lift the sub frame and we're onto the main event!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by scotboxer View Post
    I'll remove the nuts from cat before refitting with new silentbloc mountings.
    Don't bother fitting new rubberbloc mounts. BMW stopped fitting them in 2003/4 on all bikes including RT models.
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    Thanks Neil. To be clear though: the cat only needs to be secured at the front (exhaust clamp) and rear (silencer / rear sub frame mount)?

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    Yes. That's how the exhaust on my 1996 1100RS is secured (same thing). FWIW my 2000 850GS never had the silentbloc bushes from new. I wrecked one on my RS a few years back; even then Motorworks told me that BMW no longer makes them, even for the older ones...

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    how many miles you done then ? does it really need a refurb just being nosey good luck though

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    Quote Originally Posted by scotboxer View Post
    Thought I might turn this thread into a diary of the job for others planning to do it. As long as they are not in a hurry - I'll be taking my time over the winter.

    Today's task was to remove the cat.

    To be continued ...
    There's a (retired) man with plenty of time on his hands!

    Must pop over to have a gander at his work. If only I didn't have my work to go to!!

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