Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT

Posh Pete · Dec 2, 2013

ghiribizzo said:
Why make it hard by removing them as a unit?
Drive box off, then swingarm and then the gearbox off...

Mainly because I'm short of space. Pulling the whole lot off would allow me to wheel it out and split the gearbox off without having to squeeze around things. The reason for the job is to refurb the gearbox. However, I may still simply pull the final drive off and then the gearbox. Got plenty of time to think these days!

DrFarkoff · Dec 2, 2013

Well if you want to do it that way? Slacken all the pivot pins etc etc to make sure they are going to move then you just have to move new position

and wheel pull it out and having already slackened everything you don;t have to dance like a demented pixie while you are trying to figure out how to brace stuff to break the high torque bits

Also just a wee not Note there is an earth cable which loops around the left rear battery box rubber jobby

Its ferkin marvellous when you remember about it just as you split the bastard :aidan

and try to guide the cable around the bobbin

Its another one that You only forget once !!!

scotboxer said:
Mainly because I'm short of space. Pulling the whole lot off would allow me to wheel it out and split the gearbox off without having to squeeze around things. The reason for the job is to refurb the gearbox. However, I may still simply pull the final drive off and then the gearbox. Got plenty of time to think these days!

Posh Pete · Dec 2, 2013

DrFarkoff said:
Well if you want to do it that way? Slacken all the pivot pins etc etc to make sure they are going to move then you just have to move new position
and wheel pull it out and having already slackened everything you don;t have to dance like a demented pixie while you are trying to figure out how to brace stuff to break the high torque bits

Also just a wee not Note there is an earth cable which loops around the left rear battery box rubber jobby

Its ferkin marvellous when you remember about it just as you split the bastard and try to guide the cable around the bobbin

Its another one that You only forget once !!!

Good thinking Jay. Removing the final drive as a oner and then the gearbox is getting more appealing.

Steptoe · Dec 2, 2013

ghiribizzo said:
Why make it hard by removing them as a unit?
Drive box off, then swingarm and then the gearbox off...

What's hard about it. I manage to remove and replace it all as a unit easily enough single handed.

ghiribizzo · Dec 2, 2013

Ok - it's not hard, I've done plenty and Steptoe...you can likely do it blindfolded!
What I should have said perhaps, given our man hasn't done it before and the point of the dismantling is to get the gearbox stripped is that it may be easier for him to take it apart bit by bit, as long as the pivots are loosened off.

DrFarkoff · Dec 2, 2013

The other way of looking at it is that Steptoe is doing it as a commercial venture and its quicker that way

But if anyone is doing this and they are for keeping the Bike a long time

I think splitting it all is better as you can grease splines check the pins are in good condition and not being used as a bearing surface

Steptoe said:
What's hard about it. I manage to remove and replace it all as a unit easily enough single handed.

Posh Pete · Dec 3, 2013

Word of the day: bugger!

After yesterday's debate, I decided to separate the final drive from the gearbox. First I had to lower the sub frame: I hadn't spotted the wiring to the neutral switch behind the gearbox and it was being stretched. Easily sorted.

The blow lamp came out and the near side,adjustable, pivot loosened without any drama. Over to the offside, fixed pivot. Bugger, would not budge despite three attempts with the blow lamp and varying leverages.

Out came the plus gas and a libation of the inner threads and the outer head via a long matchstick. Will try again tomorrow.

MattW · Dec 3, 2013

scotboxer said:
After yesterday's debate, I decided to separate the final drive from the gearbox. First I had to lower the sub frame: I hadn't spotted the wiring to the neutral switch behind the gearbox and it was being stretched. Easily sorted.

The blow lamp came out and the near side,adjustable, pivot loosened without any drama. Over to the offside, fixed pivot. Bugger, would not budge despite three attempts with the blow lamp and varying leverages.

Out came the plus gas and a libation of the inner threads and the outer head via a long matchstick. Will try again tomorrow.

Heat is the only way to release the pins. Don't forget they are bolted to a big heat sink and the loctite needs in excess of 100 degrees to soften. Plenty of heat, let it soak and test it with a licked finger - it should fizz nicely.

If you crank at it without softening the loctite you can tear the threads in the swingarm.

Posh Pete · Dec 9, 2013

Success!

So, back to it today. I tried once more last week but, despite lots of heat, the 12mm allan key I was using (with a bit of leverage) was starting to round the hex in the bolt. So, applied plus gas a couple of times over the weekend and went in search of a 1/2 inch squ drive jobbie. No joy at the local tool store but found it at Wilkinson's, a wee old fashioned tool store at the back of Pilrig church, off Leith Walk. All these years in Embra and never knew it was there!

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Another session with the blowlamp this afternoon and the bolt came away nae bother!

[/URL][/IMG]Thank f$ck for that. I was beginning to get worried. Both bolts unscrewed OK with no damage apparent to the threads.

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I was going to pop the drive shaft at the gearbox end before pulling the swinging arm but it toppled off the jack before I could do so.

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When the box is ready, I'll probably match up the shaft with the final drive , reattach the gearbox and bung the whole lot in as recommended by Steptoe above.

So. tomorrow's job is to pull the gearbox back and off.

Mark H · Dec 9, 2013

Heres a tip which I done to mine, put a nick in the rubber boot with a thin blade such as a stanley knife, any oil leaking from that 2p seal you need to strip the box to get to wont get down the pushrod tube and oil your clutch :thumb2

Steptoe · Dec 9, 2013

scotboxer said:
When the box is ready, I'll probably match up the shaft with the final drive , reattach the gearbox and bung the whole lot in as recommended by Steptoe above.

Seeing as you've split all the parts then put it back together one piece at a time. Far easier.

Posh Pete · Dec 9, 2013

Steptoe said:
Seeing as you've split all the parts then put it back together one piece at a time. Far easier.

Isn't it necessary to match up the cardan shaft with the final drive correctly so they're phased correctly? I thought this might be easier to do off the bike?

DrFarkoff · Dec 9, 2013

Do what I did when I had the Gammy shoulder

Fit shaft together as you see it phased

Draw big Fook off tippex line down a spline and onto the front part

Fit front part

Fit swingarm

Fit Final Drive

Fit back in Bike and do final torques

Posh Pete · Dec 9, 2013

DrFarkoff said:
Do what I did when I had the Gammy shoulder

Fit shaft together as you see it phased

Draw big Fook off tippex line down a spline and onto the front part

Fit front part

Fit swingarm

Fit Final Drive

Fit back in Bike and do final torques

Sounds like a plan Jay. Thanks. I haven't split the final drive from the swinging arm but I suppose I can pull back the gaiter to eyeball the uj and get it in phase with the gearbox uj.

MattW · Dec 9, 2013

Well timed thread scotboxer :thumb2

- it'll be very useful for me - I've just discovered that I'm going to have to remove the box on my 1100

Steptoe · Dec 9, 2013

scotboxer said:
Sounds like a plan Jay. Thanks. I haven't split the final drive from the swinging arm but I suppose I can pull back the gaiter to eyeball the uj and get it in phase with the gearbox uj.

It doesn't work that way, you've got to separate the final drive from the swingarm. .
The shaft has to be fixed to the gearbox first, then the swingarm put in place, then the final drive.

Posh Pete · Dec 10, 2013

Festina lente!

Started today by removing the gear sensor from the back of the gearbox...

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It's a fiddly job at ground level or is that my aging bones / muscles? It takes a 7mm socket and is tricky because the sensor is bottle neck shaped - wider on the outside than the inside. However, it does not take much torque to remove the bolt and so the head is not damaged by the socket sitting askew.

Next, the airbox.

It took me a few minutes to spot the allan screw at the front of the box. You can see its threaded insert in the middle of the pic here.

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There's one on the other side also ...

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You can also see the engine breather tube which is crimped onto the top of the airbox. That'll have to be removed also. The wiring harness is also zip tied to the airbox via the eyelet which you can see in this pic ...

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I nearly forgot to unscrew the brake pipes from the side of the gearbox and to free the rear brake reservoir so they do not get stretched or pulled when the sub frame is lifted.

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Lifting the sub frame carefully should allow me to pull the airbox down and to the rear and to get access to the six allan bolts which hold the gearbox onto the back of the crankcase..

To be continued.

Steptoe · Dec 10, 2013

Don't forget the two nuts that secure the battery carrier to the gearbox

Posh Pete · Dec 10, 2013

Steptoe said:
Don't forget the two nuts that secure the battery carrier to the gearbox

Done that but ta for the reminder.

Beebop · Dec 10, 2013

And the screw inside the back of the airbox.

Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT

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What a waste.

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