Connecting to CanBus - advice required

macpants

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Hi all - I need some advice please.

I have a 2014 GSA LC and I want to fit a FuzeBlocks fuse block. This clever little device has input power fed directly from the battery and from a switched power source. Obviously this means you can connect devices which need permanent power and those which need switched power.

Anyway - connection of the switched wire obviously taps into a CanBus wire somewhere. I have watched a YouTube video on the subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTpsccTIW6Y

The guy in the video states that you tap into RED/GREY wire of the small fuse block under the riders seat - but he actually points at the RED/BROWN wire? I have tested both wires and it appears that the RED/GREY is permanent 12v - not switched and I can't get the RED/BROWN wire to show any current either with the bike on or off?

Does anyone know for sure which of these wires I need to tap into to get a switched feed?

I would be grateful for any advice.

Many thanks.
 
You will only get that wire to read for current if that particular switch wire is drawing a load. If your testing for current draw with the meter connected draw a load by turning things on like grips fogs etc.
I would say from what you've said it's the red/brown.... You could cut it and test it for switching voltage and if it's not just rejoin it?
Pretty sure it's that though
 
You will only get that wire to read for current if that particular switch wire is drawing a load. If your testing for current draw with the meter connected draw a load by turning things on like grips fogs etc.
I would say from what you've said it's the red/brown.... You could cut it and test it for switching voltage and if it's not just rejoin it?
Pretty sure it's that though

Aha. That makes sense now. I tested the RED/BROWN without load.

Many thanks
 
What a great idea !............... Just ordered two for upcoming mods......... Just need to find a fuse now !

Cheers.

Hi, I want to use one these to power some led drl, however these are available in normal, mini and micro. What size do i need to purchase?

thanks
 
according to flea bay, micro are 9mm tall, mini 16mm tall and normal 32mm tall.

just measured mine and definately mini 16mm tall

hope this helps
 
Use the positive feed to the auxiliary socket to trip a relay and in turn use the relay to power your new fuse box (wired battery + via relay to fuse box). Earth the fuse box directly to the battery and wire all accessories directly from the fuse box and return the earth, from each accessory, directly to the fuse box. The accessory socket is designed to take different loads so the relay trip won't upset the canbus and as you will be wiring accessories positive from and return the earth to the new fusebox you're not messing with the bikes original wiring job done :thumb

I've done quite a few bikes as described and as a conservative estimate these bikes have covered 200,000 miles with no issues :) feel free to call me if you want some tips 07772 144993.

Dave
 
As Dellis says, the auxiliary socket seems the easiest place to tap into, not least saving time deciding if a wire is live and / or one colour or another.

Inserting a simple PDM 60 would do away with the relay (as it's built in) and is arguably a neater solution to the conventional fuse box.
 
Use the positive feed to the auxiliary socket to trip a relay and in turn use the relay to power your new fuse box (wired battery + via relay to fuse box).

Dave

Note that this system will work, but whenever the self start is used the extra fuse box will cut out while the self start motor is turning.
Secondly if you use the aux socket for a charging connection (BM or new Optimate) the extra fuse box will be live while charging takes place.
Thirdly it will stay live for quite some time after the ignition is turned off.
 
I fitted my fuzeblock as described above i.e. the canbus switched power comes from the aux skt on the bike.

Regarding my Optimate charger, I have that fed through one of the non switched contacts on the Fuzeblock.

This works ok for the Fuzeblock on/off as per the aux skt and the Optimate is charging the battery when the bike is powered down.
 
As Dellis says, the auxiliary socket seems the easiest place to tap into, not least saving time deciding if a wire is live and / or one colour or another.

Inserting a simple PDM 60 would do away with the relay (as it's built in) and is arguably a neater solution to the conventional fuse box.

Great idea if you have a lot of gear to connect but, at £129, its an expensive way of powering an intercom or radios. A fused relay cost a tenner and requires no more skill to connect up than the fuse blocks.
 


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